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1480 Ujoint Removal - Pitman Arm Puller

AgitatedPancake

AgitatedPancake

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This is probably something everyone knows and I’m just slow, but I was pulling my 1480 joints earlier today and found out a pitman arm puller is the right size to make things easier. The more you know.

If you have other tips and tricks, feel free. I’ve been eyeing those specific ujoint pullers, those look handy but I’ve always done them the old fashion way

IMG_9682.jpeg


IMG_9683.jpeg
 
Smack the caps to break em free an then start hitting the base of the yoke right where it flares out from the shaft

The caps should walk right out. I change a bunch of 'em and that works well enough, that I do that before even thinking about using the press.
 
I've always used a cheapy HF ball joint press....

Something like this one:


The hammer trick I've used once I get the new joint into the shaft and have the circlips or snap rings on to free up the joint for full angularity. I wouldn't be surprised if you could walk them all the way out using that method as Steve said.
 
AgitatedPancake said:
This is probably something everyone knows and I’m just slow, but I was pulling my 1480 joints earlier today and found out a pitman arm puller is the right size to make things easier. The more you know.

If you have other tips and tricks, feel free. I’ve been eyeing those specific ujoint pullers, those look handy but I’ve always done them the old fashion way

IMG_9682.jpeg


IMG_9683.jpeg
Click to expand...
That pullers great for all kinds of random shit!
 
Sean said:
I've always used a cheapy HF ball joint press....

Something like this one:


The hammer trick I've used once I get the new joint into the shaft and have the circlips or snap rings on to free up the joint for full angularity. I wouldn't be surprised if you could walk them all the way out using that method as Steve said.
Click to expand...

If you hit the caps and they move enough to loosen the snaprings. You are golden, and they usually will walk right out.

If the snap rings dont loosen up i torch out the center. Because fuck being patient:flipoff2:


The other trick on all ISR ujoints, is if you cant quite get the last snap ring in. Use some sockets or whatever in the vise, to clamp against the caps. Then you smack the yoke with a punch. It will pop out to where its supposed to be.
 
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Sean said:
I've always used a cheapy HF ball joint press....

Something like this one:


The hammer trick I've used once I get the new joint into the shaft and have the circlips or snap rings on to free up the joint for full angularity. I wouldn't be surprised if you could walk them all the way out using that method as Steve said.
Click to expand...

I've used that kit in the past but the included sleeves just don't work for removal. Last week I bought the lisle 42900 puller and it made quick work of my 1480s with just a 3/8 ratchet. definitely worth the $75
 
cdemart2 said:
I've used that kit in the past but the included sleeves just don't work for removal. Last week I bought the lisle 42900 puller and it made quick work of my 1480s with just a 3/8 ratchet. definitely worth the $75
Click to expand...
I just made a sleeve out of a piece of IIRC, 1.25" OD x .120" wall tubing and welded a slug on the end. It might be 1.5"x .120"....cant' recall right now. Whatever size I made, fits into the other sleeves in the kit like a Russian doll.

That Lisle is pretty cool though. Lisle 42900 U-Joint Puller, Medium

The link has a pic of it in use for those interested.
 
Sean said:
That Lisle is pretty cool though. Lisle 42900 U-Joint Puller, Medium
Click to expand...

had a lisle puller for truck Ujoints and even with greasing the shit out of it, it galled and seized up after 3 Ujoints. Been beating on tiger tool stuff everyday, and it just doesnt care.:smokin:


Gotta be careful with those pullers though. If the caps are seized and you put the wood to them. You will bend the yoke. Get em preloaded and then start thumping on stuff
 
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What size puller do you use for 1480? 1350/1410?
Seems they don’t always list joint or cap sizes in the descriptions? Just medium or large etc.
 
truckin222 said:
What size puller do you use for 1480? 1350/1410?
Seems they don’t always list joint or cap sizes in the descriptions? Just medium or large etc.
Click to expand...

I dont have those pullers for the the little U joints like that. I try and use my arbor press for everything SPL100 and under. Going off tiger tools website, thats going to be 2 different pullers though. Looks like the automotive one is good up to 1-1/4 caps and the medium duty one is good down to 1-1/4. I think the hang up is going to be how wide things are.

fwiw 1350/1410 stuff is a 1.188 cap. 1480's are 1.375
 
Truck size puller on an spl100, but I think its what you will run into using a 1480 puller for 1410's. Its just barely grabbing the yoke and barely on the cross

20230914_093730.jpg
 
Something else a guy can do on the cheap. Is just some thick wall tube to support the back side of the yoke, and make up some C blocks.

Can use em in a normal press or just hit them with a hammer.

20230914_094419.jpg
 
Steve300xcw said:
had a lisle puller for truck Ujoints and even with greasing the shit out of it, it galled and seized up after 3 Ujoints. Been beating on tiger tool stuff everyday, and it just doesnt care.:smokin:


Gotta be careful with those pullers though. If the caps are seized and you put the wood to them. You will bend the yoke. Get em preloaded and then start thumping on stuff
Click to expand...
Good to know. I know the HF bj pullers should be greased and run back and forth a bunch with an impact to avoid them seizing up. I wonder if a similar procedure would be a good idea with the Lisle....though it sounds like Tiger Tool would just be a better purchase, but I admittedly don't know the cost involved. Probably a case of you get what you pay for.
 
All pullers need greased. It was greased and ran back and forth several times before it was even used. It still galled up bad enough to stall out a 3/4" impact. I was impressed:laughing:

I had an OTC one and while it pulled a lot of Ujoints before It blew up, the tiger tool one still works better. Prices arent far enough apart for it to matter to me. I wanna say it was maybe $40 difference
 
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