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Sterlingfire said:
Internet consensus says 36 spline... my memory fails me. It was about 4 years ago when i did all that digging to find i couldn't use it... so that means the Ford np input is no good.
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So in short, a 6l80e is superior for offroad rigs? The 90e is a little beefier, maybe better for towing only?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
So in short, a 6l80e is superior for offroad rigs? The 90e is a little beefier, maybe better for towing only?
Click to expand...
Honestly, i wanted to use the 90, it's a beast, always been a work truck, it has towed 10-12k for at least 100k of its 260k life i would run that trans without rebuilding. It never slipped once, and the fluid was as beautiful as the day it was installed... but the input for the underdrive was becoming more than i wanted to deal with. We even looked into swapping the output from the 80 to the 90. That was a dead end as well.
In the end, for what we do, the 80 is s better choice IMO. Deeper first gear, a smaller/ shorter case, 32 spline output, and easily bolted to most transfer cases guys like us would be interested in. My final drive in first gear and double low is in the 120:1 range(from what my shit memory is telling me from 4 years ago:lmao:), and in low range with 6 gears it should haul ass pretty good when required. They're becoming plentiful, and you can do a bench rebuild for less than 500 if you so desire. Stock they're good for at least 500 hp, and with a little cash you can get that number up to 750 hp no problem. I've got around 500 into mine, includes purchase and rebuild by my good friend.
My big concern with all of this is that I'm trying to get my 2wd to think it's a 4wd. That's not a big deal until i slip it into low and want it to shift... will i need to get a 4wd harness to put a tcm for getting it to shift in low? I honestly haven't talked to a single programmer about my build yet, but i have to get that going so I'm not sitting here with a truck that can't do shit until the comp is figured...:homer:
 
Sterlingfire said:
My big concern with all of this is that I'm trying to get my 2wd to think it's a 4wd. That's not a big deal until i slip it into low and want it to shift... will i need to get a 4wd harness to put a tcm for getting it to shift in low? I honestly haven't talked to a single programmer about my build yet, but i have to get that going so I'm not sitting here with a truck that can't do shit until the comp is figured...:homer:
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I'm following along. I have a standalone 4.3 LV3 and 6L80E combo, and also need to understand the 4wd stuff.
 
Got a big ass ram (2.5x1.5 rod) from surplus center a while back. Clevis kit and heims as well. Pretty sure that's all Barnes 4wd.
This will be powered by a radial dynamics 6 gpm 1600 psi pump and eaton 9.7 ci orbital.
radial-dynamics.com

CB-X High Performance Steering Pump

For those that demand better steering performance and reliability, the Radial Dynamics CB-X model steering pump bolts in place of the popular TC/GM Type II steering pump but with 25% larger volume displacement meaning 25% more flow at low RPM. Manufactured by Lee Power Steering to Radial...
radial-dynamics.com radial-dynamics.com
radial-dynamics.com

Eaton Char-Lynn Steering Control Unit (Orbital Valve), Open Center, Load Reaction Type

Displacement: 120cc (7.3 cu.in.), 160cc (9.7 cu.in.), 185cc (11.3 cu. in.), and 230cc (14.0 cu.in.) available (see drop down list) Neutral Circuit: Open Center Oil Flow Load Circuit: Load Reaction Port Size: -8 ORB* Rated Pressure: 4000 PSI Max Rated Backpressure at Port T: 305 PSI Input Shaft...
radial-dynamics.com radial-dynamics.com
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Also glued the Barnes truss on the rear disc brake 14 bolt original to the truck. The tubes are welded on this as well. I bought the front truss, rear truss, bridge with shovel and a few link brackets for around 300 shipped all from Barnes. I caught one of their sales and got a great deal. Probably won't see those prices again for a while:shaking:
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20220118_202744.jpg


This is the rear link mount cross member. This one is welded to the frame with stand offs welded inside, both sides are identical. It is also built out of 2x4x3/16 doubled up. It is the same height as the front cross member so a belly pan can be worked under this thing. That was one of the biggest issues with the old one, how low it sat made it drag bottom quite often. With 40's this truck will be about 22" to the belly. Wheelbase is in the 135" range.
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20220118_202845.jpg
 
Sterlingfire said:
I hope you're right:beer:
I need to get back into research mode and get it figured out, that's for sure.
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I put a 6.2/6l80e/atlas in my father in laws jeep, but haven't ran it yet. That was what I had found.

My buddy has the same engine and trans in his JK, both from a 2010 escalade which don't even have low range. His is all stock tuned for smog, so I assume they didn't do anything with the trans either.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I put a 6.2/6l80e/atlas in my father in laws jeep, but haven't ran it yet. That was what I had found.

My buddy has the same engine and trans in his JK, both from a 2010 escalade which don't even have low range. His is all stock tuned for smog, so I assume they didn't do anything with the trans either.
Click to expand...
When i was reading up on doing this, everything pointed to me only needing the ecm reprogrammed, because it is 2wd. Now that we're discussing, all the details are w coming back to me.
 
Motor mounts, removing the stock ones really created room for bump travel for the upper links. They're quite simple really. 2 bushing kits with 5/8 through bolts, 1 1/2x1/4 dom, and 2 plates bolted to the engine.
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That pretty much brings us up to date. Lately I've been working on the shop. Finally getting the wiring, Wall framing, and insulation going. Hoping to have that all finished by February. We're about to get busy, and after that I'm afraid i won't have much time in there for a while...
I've got lots of purchases to get this thing moving, but i think I've got most of that worked out...i hope:laughing:
Thanks for following along so far!
 
There are still a couple of pictures poking around.

This one is my link material.
2.5x.25 wall dom, compared to the old truck links at 2x.25 wall.
For my uppers I've been thinking of going with 2.25x.188 wall dom. I don't really think i need the .25 wall for the upper links. What do you guys think, will my suggested size be enough for a 6k plus lb rig?
20220118_203956.jpg


My weaver fab high steer arms. My steering links will connect to bottom side of the arms to get semi high steer. I can't bump as high as i want if i go actual high steer.
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Actually worked on it last night... the wife told me she didn't expect it to move for 10 years. Well that lit the fire, I'm going to get more dom next week.
Until then, here's some things i did last night.

Cleaned up the passenger side engine bay. Need room for those big ass shocks!
Battery tray will be in the rear, and i deleted the ac... that might not be a popular choice, but I'm not spending over 1k just to get it back.
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Then i got after the driver side..
Ecm may go back where it was, but we have a major challenge ahead.
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The shock looks damn good in there.
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Until you look from up top...
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Of course it looks good all cleaned up... but the shock and master cylinder want to occupy the same space. I know the mc was there first, but the shock has no real choice, unless i want to raise ride height about 4"... ummmm NO. I'm just going to pull the mc, get the shock mounted and go from there. I've been looking at hot rod power brake setups. They generally turn their mc/ booster 90°. Usually under the dash, but that gives me hope. I'm going to try to fab a bracket to get my Mc turned about 30° toward the inside of the engine bay.
 
Sterlingfire said:
Of course it looks good all cleaned up... but the shock and master cylinder want to occupy the same space. I know the mc was there first, but the shock has no real choice, unless i want to raise ride height about 4"... ummmm NO. I'm just going to pull the mc, get the shock mounted and go from there. I've been looking at hot rod power brake setups. They generally turn their mc/ booster 90°. Usually under the dash, but that gives me hope. I'm going to try to fab a bracket to get my Mc turned about 30° toward the inside of the engine bay.
Click to expand...
Desert truck guys will often put a remote hydroboost, sideways, between the rad and damper pulley.
Frees up a lot of room for shocks, right in the area you're talking about.
 
Bebop said:
Desert truck guys will often put a remote hydroboost, sideways, between the rad and damper pulley.
Frees up a lot of room for shocks, right in the area you're talking about.
Click to expand...
Master cylinder on the "firewall" and slave cylinder pushing on the remote master?

Some 50s Chevy trucks did basically the same thing to remote mount under the cab to fit the vacuum booster.
 
Bebop said:
Desert truck guys will often put a remote hydroboost, sideways, between the rad and damper pulley.
Frees up a lot of room for shocks, right in the area you're talking about.
Click to expand...
I read about that. Hotrod guys will do it as well. From what i read it takes a secondary hydraulic system to accomplish with a specific mc. I want to use what i have instead of buying more. I was also thinking of remote mounting my current mc and using an aircraft cable to pull a turn buckle to push the rod into the booster will be feasible? I will research the options a bunch more before i do anything permanent. First things first, the shocks need to be mounted.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Master cylinder on the "firewall" and slave cylinder pushing on the remote master?

Some 50s Chevy trucks did basically the same thing to remote mount under the cab to fit the vacuum booster.
Click to expand...
Yes, exactly. A lot of medium duty trucks from back then did it as well. There are options for me, i just don't think they're cheap.
 
Sterlingfire said:
Yes, exactly. A lot of medium duty trucks from back then did it as well. There are options for me, i just don't think they're cheap.
Click to expand...
Remote mount only adds like $100ish and an hour or two of looking up parts and figuring out which master and random clutch slave and small car master will work. :flipoff2:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Remote mount only adds like $100ish and an hour or two of looking up parts and figuring out which master and random clutch slave and small car master will work. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
100 for the slave, but to you still need to purchase the booster and mc made to be worked remotely, plus brackets and the rest of the parts necessary:flipoff2:
I'm looking into it now, and will likely have a plan by tonight.
 
Sterlingfire said:
100 for the slave, but to you still need to purchase the booster and mc made to be worked remotely
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No you don't. Buy a slave that uses a pushrod. Whip up apropriate brackets, do whatever fiddling is required to make the slave pushrod play nice with the booster. Done. The booster doesn't care whether the pushrod is being pushed by the brake pedal or another cylinder.
 
arse_sidewards said:
No you don't. Buy a slave that uses a pushrod. Whip up apropriate brackets, do whatever fiddling is required to make the slave pushrod play nice with the booster. Done. The booster doesn't care whether the pushrod is being pushed by the brake pedal or another cylinder.
Click to expand...
www.tdsideas.com

Remote Hydroboost Mounting Kit

This kit is designed to remotely mount your hydroboost unit. If you don't like the looks of it mounted on the firewall or don't have room for it, use this kit to mount it anywhere you have space.
www.tdsideas.com

You are correct. I literally just started reading about it last night. The kit linked above will probably make it a bit easier. I'll just need a slave cylinder and lines...
 
Some old gm bread vans have the master cylinder turned sideways and a cantilever to push on the master
 
I would think it would be easy to fab up a bracket that rotates the whole thing 90 degrees and then make a simple lever like mentioned above. the rest is just plumbing. I sure am glad I decided on a 12" shock. it gets really tight on that side. I ended up mounting the lower side of the shock down off the tube behind the axle tied into the lower control arm bracket.
 
91samurai said:
Some old gm bread vans have the master cylinder turned sideways and a cantilever to push on the master
Click to expand...

wvracer821 said:
I would think it would be easy to fab up a bracket that rotates the whole thing 90 degrees and then make a simple lever like mentioned above. the rest is just plumbing. I sure am glad I decided on a 12" shock. it gets really tight on that side. I ended up mounting the lower side of the shock down off the tube behind the axle tied into the lower control arm bracket.
Click to expand...

Mounting 90 degrees puts the mc into the top of the intake. Remote mounting is about my only option unless i want to go manual brakes:barf:

That side was pretty tight until i pulled the mc/ booster out. Now there is plenty of room for activities:smokin:
20220121_180859.jpg
 
how the F is this not done yet? Pretty sure ive built wheeled and scrapped, and started a new rig in the time its taken you to get to this point :flipoff2:

but its looking good and nice to see some updates :beer:
 
Look at EB bronco brake setups, might be able to use the offset linkage and mount from there?
 
Snowracer said:
how the F is this not done yet? Pretty sure ive built wheeled and scrapped, and started a new rig in the time its taken you to get to this point :flipoff2:

but its looking good and nice to see some updates :beer:
Click to expand...
Lol, I'm not sure...i figured out i couldn't make my deadline, plans changed, money, but you know, mostly excuses:lmao:

thanks, I'll try to keep in it now that i have my shocks.
Midget said:
Look at EB bronco brake setups, might be able to use the offset linkage and mount from there?
Click to expand...
Got it figured out now. Going to go hydraulic setup to completely relocate the booster and master.

20220203_192454.jpg
 
Late 80s early 90s Chevy 2500s have a pushrod style hydraulic slave cylinder fyi for the clutch that would probably be easy to make a mount. Got it on my 2wd manual 89 2500. I also use ss braided line from brake line shop with adapter fitting in the mc and slave. It actually came out cheaper than a new hose, and less time than going to the junkyard for a line

But that might help you rig up your brake setup. I think* I have a spare slave cyl if you want a picture or measurement
 
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