What did you do to your RV today?

Have you tried phoning the company?
Actually no. I'll have to look again but I don't remember them having a help line. They have the help forum which is populated by a bunch of nut swingers that automatically start off with "did you read the manual?"
 
Now I remember.....

Screenshot_20260601_195104_Chrome.jpg


Since I bought this junk of Amazon, I have no idea who my dealer is. Every piece was probably bought from a different source.

Edit, their manuals are hot garbage for trouble shooting anything. Or anything else useful for that matter. They were written by the marketing dept.
 
When my Xantrex inverter/charger died after 15 years, I called the company. A service tech told me to disconnect everything overnight and see if it would start. Got another two years out of it. When it finally died they had me try several things, then gave me a customer loyalty discount on a new unit. Even helped me pick a new one that allowed me to use the existing wiring.
 
May have identified my issue. When I ordered the MK3 i ****ed up and got the USB C one. Apparently they don't like adapters to USB A. Ordered an A one and oll send this one back.
 
That link is to an ammeter.

Mine came with some ducting which is smaller than the RV stuff. The rear is a pretty long run, but it splits into 2 pretty quick. One side does the holding tank compartment (not sure how I feel about that) and the other does the bedroom. The front one is maybe 6' long. It "should" work. If not, booster fan.

The heated tank area is bothering me, it pulls air from the coach and dumps it down there with no return. You wouldn't want a return anyway, but it's pulling cold air into the coach to do this. One thought I have is blocking that vent then plumbing the exhuast from the heaters through there to reclaim exhuast heat.

That's a future me problem.
I have similar thoughts about the basement heat, how effective is it even? Is that a RVIA requirement or marketing wank?

I recently thought about just putting a diesel heater dedicated to the belly, closed loop. They are getting to be so cheap there's not much risk.

Here's that link to the fan with auto temp controller. Really easy to 3d print the whole thing though.

 
If i do a booster fan, I will just put it on a relay and trigger it with the fan power in the diesel heater. No need for a timer/controller.
 
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So I've been moseying along with my underside motorhome sound deadening. I have bought a lot of DEI Tunnel Shield II. ****s like $15/sqft. I have a little more to do around the engine, then I'm going to do the heat shield above the muffler and call it good.

I started it today to get it hot so I can re-stick anything that changed shape and add a couple more clamps to the muffler blanket now that the aluminum relaxed a little bit.

My arms are tired, need to go re-roller the Dynamat in place with the flooring roller.

I noticed that I can no longer hear the exhaust or engine through the floor at idle. It all comes through the windshield now. So, with that, I might skip the header wrap unless by chance the exhaust overpowers the whine of the reaction shell in the transmission at speed. I don't think it will. However, I might add some more interior sound deadening if I decide to make the cabin floor the same height as the coach floor.


Dynamat_UndersideFloor.jpg


MufflerWrap_S.jpg


Tunnelshield1_S.jpg
 
So I've been moseying along with my underside motorhome sound deadening. I have bought a lot of DEI Tunnel Shield II. ****s like $15/sqft. I have a little more to do around the engine, then I'm going to do the heat shield above the muffler and call it good.

I started it today to get it hot so I can re-stick anything that changed shape and add a couple more clamps to the muffler blanket now that the aluminum relaxed a little bit.

My arms are tired, need to go re-roller the Dynamat in place with the flooring roller.

I noticed that I can no longer hear the exhaust or engine through the floor at idle. It all comes through the windshield now. So, with that, I might skip the header wrap unless by chance the exhaust overpowers the whine of the reaction shell in the transmission at speed. I don't think it will. However, I might add some more interior sound deadening if I decide to make the cabin floor the same height as the coach floor.


Dynamat_UndersideFloor.jpg


MufflerWrap_S.jpg


Tunnelshield1_S.jpg
You think you can upgrade the windshield to the sound reduction style on the newer pickups, not even sure what makes it so, except maybe it's just thicker?
 
As far as I can tell, Ford and tail end of the Saturns were the only ones that really used plastic in the side glass to help with noise and then very few places seem to manufacture replacement windshields with the sound absorbing plastic between the layers for non-OE glass. I haven't looked in a while so that is a good idea.
 
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