1992 VE injection pump issues>>>>>????

xr-nut

xr-nut

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I have a 92 ve pump 12valve im trying to get swapped into a square body. it came from a good running(allegedly!) truck. when I got it in the square and fired it the first time the air pump was leaking oil so I rebuilt the seals in it real quick and started it back up. Now the VE is leaking fuel out of multiple places. Probably from sitting for a couple years. So i bought a ve pump seal kit and started in on doing that. after a few weeks of it sitting on my bench my life got even busier so I opted to take the easy button and bought a "new" pump on evilbay. along with that i thought id go ahead and get a new fuel pin and gov spring for it and have it all be new. new pump shows up along with the perf pin and spring so i get them installed and toss the pump on the motor. now the issues......

it wouldnt start. I cranked and cranked and cranked, then cranked some more. "bled" the injectors multiple times. id get some air then a few spirts of fuel so id lock them down and try to start it again. still no start. then I notice (this has been going on for 30 minutes) a quiet squeaking noise. wtf is that coming from. at this point im about to give up so i sit and start scrolling cummins forums looking for a help. first thing i read about is the shaft lockout bolt. the one near the timing cover that holds the pump in tdc when you take it out. oh **** i forgot about about that. so I find the washer that came supplied with it, back the bolt out and then tightend it up on the washer. ****, what damage did that cause inside the pump? now the squeak is gone though. then i read about the fuel shut off valve on the business end of the pump. hmmmm..... put 12v on that, it clicks, hit the starter and it fires up. idles ok, will NOT rev at all. immediately trys to die. let off the throttle and it returns right back to idle.

So did i ruin the pump from cranking it so long dry and/or the timing bolt being tight while cranking ????
 
in my defense, on the running leaking pump..... the fsv was not wired either. so it had be modded to let fuel flow without ign power.

also, the running leaking pump had NO fuel pin in it. also had the boost circuit port plugged.
 
Do you have a pulse adapter to run a timing light?

That is the first place I would go, try to check timing. (but then I already have a pulse adapter) That would probably tell you if something got tweaked inside the pump (if the timing is way off) it would also allow you to correct the timing and see if it will run correctly.
 
Tiha said:
Do you have a pulse adapter to run a timing light?

That is the first place I would go, try to check timing. (but then I already have a pulse adapter) That would probably tell you if something got tweaked inside the pump (if the timing is way off) it would also allow you to correct the timing and see if it will run correctly.
Click to expand...
I dont have one, off to google though

also, i did move the pump forward and backwards through the timing notches to see if there was any change. there was none.
 
xr-nut said:
I dont have one, off to google though

also, i did move the pump forward and backwards through the timing notches to see if there was any change. there was none.
Click to expand...
I would say timing is not your problem then.

I have had some lazy VE pumps but usually they snap out of it once you get them running. The cummins stuff I am not familiar with. Hopefully someone else will have some insight that can help.
 
if you cranked it over with the timing lock bolt in, the pump is farked. sorry
 
slow600 said:
if you cranked it over with the timing lock bolt in, the pump is farked. sorry
Click to expand...
do you know much about these pumps/motors?

Reason is the mods done to the running pump, how do i get them done to a new pump without ruining it again. I suppose i could send of f the running pump and get it rebuilt, but the shop i called wanted 1200 bucks to rebuild it. when the new one was 650.
 
Resealing the pump is not a big deal but often you can't tell why it is leaking without tearing it apart. being belt driven in the ones I have worked on, if someone overtightened the belt it would destroy the front bushing in the pump. Without disassembly you would never know.

But I am sure you are capable of putting seals in if you wanted to give it a go.
 
If you pinch the return line does it change anything?


The banjo bolt on the return line is supposed to have a restrictor in it. When I was working on my Excursion I had taken things apart and a normal full flow banjo ended up on the return line. it would idle ok but fall on its face as soon as you revved it up any. By happenstance while I was trying to figure this ****ing thing out I leaned in the bay and pinched off the return line when I put my hand on it and it immediately sounded better at idle and would rev up. That's when I learned about the restrictor banjo thing.
 
Gots_a_sol said:
If you pinch the return line does it change anything?


The banjo bolt on the return line is supposed to have a restrictor in it. When I was working on my Excursion I had taken things apart and a normal full flow banjo ended up on the return line. it would idle ok but fall on its face as soon as you revved it up any. By happenstance while I was trying to figure this ****ing thing out I leaned in the bay and pinched off the return line when I put my hand on it and it immediately sounded better at idle and would rev up. That's when I learned about the restrictor banjo thing.
Click to expand...
good question i dont know the answer to. i'll check tonight. fangers crossed its that simple. I did use the new bolt/washers that came with the new pump
 
Are you sure you had the timing right on the engine? Maybe rotate the pump one way or the other.
I think this is basically the same one I am working on in a case tractor. Pull starter and line up flywheel and lock with a holding tool. Remove mech pump and verify the orientation of the camshaft. Your new pump should have been locked assuming all your marks are lined up. But is your lock pin is just a bolt or something you found laying around, your timing may just be a little off.

A kid at work told me to "never forget to loosen the lock bolt on the injection pump before trying to start" but I did not ask him what happens if I do. So I would assume it is something bad.
 
Gots_a_sol said:
If you pinch the return line does it change anything?


The banjo bolt on the return line is supposed to have a restrictor in it. When I was working on my Excursion I had taken things apart and a normal full flow banjo ended up on the return line. it would idle ok but fall on its face as soon as you revved it up any. By happenstance while I was trying to figure this ****ing thing out I leaned in the bay and pinched off the return line when I put my hand on it and it immediately sounded better at idle and would rev up. That's when I learned about the restrictor banjo thing.
Click to expand...
So I couldnt find the bolt for the return line from the old pump. i looked all over the freaking place with no luck. I had used the bolt that came in the new pump with its new washers. So instead I used pliers on the return line rubber and it had no effect.
 
NOODLES said:
Are you sure you had the timing right on the engine? Maybe rotate the pump one way or the other.
I think this is basically the same one I am working on in a case tractor. Pull starter and line up flywheel and lock with a holding tool. Remove mech pump and verify the orientation of the camshaft. Your new pump should have been locked assuming all your marks are lined up. But is your lock pin is just a bolt or something you found laying around, your timing may just be a little off.

A kid at work told me to "never forget to loosen the lock bolt on the injection pump before trying to start" but I did not ask him what happens if I do. So I would assume it is something bad.
Click to expand...
short answer is no im not sure.

i did get youtube certified though.

I cranked the motor slowly watching the #1 valves to where i thought it was tdc, then pushed the pllunger in to the back of the timing cover which is supposed to lock the gears from turning. pulled the fill tube, pulled the nut off the inj pump, then removed the pump. reinstalled the new pump in the reverse order.

I hit the starter wire yesterday and it lit up immediately but also immediately dies with ANY amount of throttle.
 
But will it idle? for a while?

If it starts that easy the timing must be pretty close.

Hard to imagine much damage inside the pump if it fires up like that.

But maybe the pump isn't advancing or something more like that is what is not working inside the pump.
 
Tiha said:
But will it idle? for a while?

If it starts that easy the timing must be pretty close.

Hard to imagine much damage inside the pump if it fires up like that.

But maybe the pump isn't advancing or something more like that is what is not working inside the pump.
Click to expand...
yes, idles fine. i dont have coolant in it yet so the most its idled is a minute or two.

lits off instantly, idles fine.
 
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