Blase
Well-known member
I guess not. LOL
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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
- Thread starter
- #63
I need to get this thread back up to speed. I really away from my goal of a simple yet dependable streetable trail rig. The cantilever rear is a super cool concept but honestly is only gained a couple of inches of wheel travel that wouldn't be a huge difference in this build. The bigger factor is that is adds several more failure points that go against the my goal. So the rear will be a standard trailing arm. I will save the cantilever stuff and maybe use it one day on something else.
I purchased a 2005 GM2500 HD for a song so now the 6L80 of being evicted and a reliable 4L80 is going in its place. The 6.0L from will replace the 5.3 I was going to use.
That really screwed me on low range gearing with a NP205. I ordered a Magnitude 205 and a LoMax 3-1 gearset.
The Magnitude case and the LoMax parts seem to be very high quality pieces.
I purchased a 2005 GM2500 HD for a song so now the 6L80 of being evicted and a reliable 4L80 is going in its place. The 6.0L from will replace the 5.3 I was going to use.
That really screwed me on low range gearing with a NP205. I ordered a Magnitude 205 and a LoMax 3-1 gearset.
The Magnitude case and the LoMax parts seem to be very high quality pieces.
- Thread starter
- #64
The 2500HD truck came with a 14 bolt and I considered running 14 bolt f/r so I would use a 40 spline ARB. They fit into place ok but I struggled to get the track bar and steering to clear the diff cover. The BK arms plus -8* caster and a balanced assist cylinder was just more that I could get right without the tie rods on top of the arms. That killed my ride height. That is part of the reason I have not updated in so long.
So 14 bolts out and 9" stuff back in. I should made this the damn Yo-Yo Jeep at this point.
So 14 bolts out and 9" stuff back in. I should made this the damn Yo-Yo Jeep at this point.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
can you do one of them weird bent track bars that are on jeeps to get around the dif cover?
- Thread starter
- #66
Possibly. I chose to have my track bar and drag link exactly that same. I was finally able to make it all fit. I'll add pick later. I can swap them without having to adjust anything. The front now goes from full bump to full extension and the input on the steering box does not move = zero bump steer.
It took many , many tries to get it there.
I am hoping to incorporate a spare drag link / track bar and a tie rod into the cage or cargo carrier. I'm trying to eliminate failure points or include a spare parts into the build. Spare tire carrier will be a unit bearing drilled to 8-6.5" . that kind of stuff.
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chaplinfj60
Well-known member
very cool
battlebuddy618
Jeeps and Dirt Bikes and Camping
Looks cool Rusty! Very impressive work! I worked at the same place as you until they decided to sell off the mining division a few years ago. Glad to see you are still building cool stuff!
Dan_Goodwin
Red Skull
That truck wasn't a white crew cab GMC around the Auburn area by chance, was it?
- Thread starter
- #70
No, It was an extended cab here in Argo. Neighbors dad got drunk and can openered the pass side. They got tired of it in the yard after 3 years. $500
WaterH
Well-known member
So does it come un assembled? Or must you take some parts from your 205? Much lead time?
- Thread starter
- #72
The Magnitude NP205 and Dana 300 cases are available from Total Metal Innovations as a diy empty case or completely assembled. Yes there are lead times associated with both. I would advise to contact MTI for more detailed information.
Total Metal Innovations
- Thread starter
- #73
Sometime in between juggling other projects and waiting on parts, I started the front shock hoops and cage work. The front hoops tie into the main frame and land on the front towers. The reason for the plate work towers idea was for the steering shaft to have a straight shot from dash to the box.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
that would be both...... yikes 
- Thread starter
- #77
Shock hoop to A pillar tie ins. I added a tube coupler on the hoop end and a threaded insert on the A pillar end. The A pillar has a tube welded in to prevent it from crushing when the bolt is tightened. Not as good a welding but removable to get the tub off the chassis. May weld if some if I can access it with a cutoff wheel later.
Hole saw to the firewall and some rubber grommets to clean it up.
I am hopeful this will add some strength to the front of the chassis. Would be under compression when hitting the bumpstops. My YJ chassis is not braced and it is bent some right under the firewall.
Drivers side
Passenger side. Very tight to the HVAC box / controls. Yes there is a gap because it is not tight at the time of the photo.
Hole saw to the firewall and some rubber grommets to clean it up.
I am hopeful this will add some strength to the front of the chassis. Would be under compression when hitting the bumpstops. My YJ chassis is not braced and it is bent some right under the firewall.
Drivers side
Passenger side. Very tight to the HVAC box / controls. Yes there is a gap because it is not tight at the time of the photo.
- Thread starter
- #78
I wanted some creature comfort after wheeling a YJ for years with only an alum roof. I have a hard top, soft top and full doors for the LJ but wanted something I could easily have on or off as needed for wheeling or weather. Wrap around windjammer, safari top and tonneau cover with half doors is the plan.
Due to needing those items to fit I will be reusing the factory B pillar hoop. I'm not overly concerned about it's strength as I have seen a lot of rigs roll over with cages made from1.75 x .120 hrew. The factory cage is 2.25" x .120, so technically stronger regarding the material. A, A to B and C pillars are 2"
1.75" in 2" in the OEM 2.25"
Due to needing those items to fit I will be reusing the factory B pillar hoop. I'm not overly concerned about it's strength as I have seen a lot of rigs roll over with cages made from1.75 x .120 hrew. The factory cage is 2.25" x .120, so technically stronger regarding the material. A, A to B and C pillars are 2"
1.75" in 2" in the OEM 2.25"
Blase
Well-known member
I LOVE the idea to make all the factory tops fit! True hardcore wheeler with comfort will be nice. I think I'd have tried to copy the b pillar though. any plans to weld up the seams in the factory b pillar and grind smooth? I think that would hide that its the factory pc a lot.
- Thread starter
- #81
Yes, I will finish the weld a the seams because the factory didn't fully weld them. Then the padded covers will go back on in the cab area. I left enough room for the sound bar on either side of the b pillar. Still undecided.
Blase
Well-known member
Nice. The pads will cover and make it look factory. Can't wait to see how this one turns out!
SHARPMACHINE
Web Wheeler
Very cool. I am wondering if I could make a tj wrap around windjammer work on my yj now.... hmm
The wind jammer in my yj only goes to the main hoop of the cage, leaving a large gap between that and the soft upper doors.
The wind jammer in my yj only goes to the main hoop of the cage, leaving a large gap between that and the soft upper doors.
- Thread starter
- #84
Well, even only running a 2.5" x 12" coil over. I was not satisfied where the upper mount landed on the chassis. I tried a couple of spots but it just didn't fit right. The shock was either too far outboard or too much of an angle effecting the dampening ability of the shock. The TJ/LJs have a bubbled dent in the inner fender to fit the rear seat and occupants. The dent was right where I wanted the upper shock mount to be.
So in the spirit of performance, the front part of the rear inner fender was evicted. Upper shock mounts fabricated and some new inner fenders rolled around some tubing. Crude but seem to fit ok for now.
So in the spirit of performance, the front part of the rear inner fender was evicted. Upper shock mounts fabricated and some new inner fenders rolled around some tubing. Crude but seem to fit ok for now.
- Thread starter
- #85
2"x 2" rear bumper, rear upper shock mounts, rear bump stops, c pillar cage tie in and rear shock mount to cage tie in plates added. I have a functional idea for a gusset / brace from the upper shock mount cage plate to the c pillar / harness bar area. I will share it later as I am not sure it will work without cutting a large hole in the tonneau cover.
Photo dump.
Photo dump.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
in alot of ways this makes storing things so much easier in the rear. having all them bumps and such is a paint this is sweetWell, even only running a 2.5" x 12" coil over. I was not satisfied where the upper mount landed on the chassis. I tried a couple of spots but it just didn't fit right. The shock was either too far outboard or too much of an angle effecting the dampening ability of the shock. The TJ/LJs have a bubbled dent in the inner fender to fit the rear seat and occupants. The dent was right where I wanted the upper shock mount to be.
So in the spirit of performance, the front part of the rear inner fender was evicted. Upper shock mounts fabricated and some new inner fenders rolled around some tubing. Crude but seem to fit ok for now.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
you can
