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What did you do to your RV today?

I have 2 bb lifepo in the 5er. Put em in about 5-6yrs ago. Been flawless for me. Guess I've been lucky. Hope I stay lucky.
 
I was about to pull the trigger on a couple of them when that video came out. I still haven't made the switch to lithium. But going to need to soon-ish.
 
As long as you aren't pushing them hard, the ****ty plastic fuse wouldn't be an issue. The plastic getting hot loosens up the connection and makes it 10x worse. A real breaker or fuse would be much better but more expensive.

I had my ching chong battery terminal get hot and start to melt the case. When I cut it apart the positive terminal wasn't very tight causing the issue. Connections need to be tight, plastic has no place in them.
 
I think when the batteries from Battle Born started reaching the end of their useful life prematurely and it was discovered en masse that their warranty was worthless (between wasted time for you to test to prove it to them, get the RMA, then have to pay to ship a lithium battery back at retail shipping prices, then risk paying their people to re-test) people were pissed. It kind of defeats the purpose of buying an expensive battery if it does no better than just buying a new ****tier one more often. The questionable build kwality and claiming design features seems to really tarnish their reputation. They would have been better off having the BMS throttle power output based on temperature at the terminal location (or and/or use better terminals... like why is anything other than bakelite used in terminals?) than use a piece of plastic as a "fuse".

Seems like a lot of old and new battery makers (XS Power, US Battery, Trojan, Antigravity, etc) jumped on the lithium train and I have no idea where they're made but it's not like Battle Born is a bargain anymore compared to them.

I don't know much about consumer/auto batteries. I'm more familiar with utility scale batteries.
 
Captain Call said:
I have 2 bb lifepo in the 5er. Put em in about 5-6yrs ago. Been flawless for me. Guess I've been lucky. Hope I stay lucky.
Click to expand...
5-6 years sounds like expected battery life, how long do you expect them to be trouble free? Maybe they will continue to last.

I think there was a bunch of over promise and under delivery for the lithium stuff in the first few years. The warranty comment makes sense, people just expected a smoother process or a cheaper process or a free warranty. That was never the deal, which slanders the whole brand to the consumer eye.
 
Provience said:
5-6 years sounds like expected battery life, how long do you expect them to be trouble free? Maybe they will continue to last.

I think there was a bunch of over promise and under delivery for the lithium stuff in the first few years. The warranty comment makes sense, people just expected a smoother process or a cheaper process or a free warranty. That was never the deal, which slanders the whole brand to the consumer eye.
Click to expand...
Well, I'd like them to last forever. :flipoff2:


But in all seriousness I went in expecting 7ish years. So, I won't be too bummed if they **** the bed next year or 2. I just dont want them burning my **** down. :laughing:
 
Provience said:
Mostly it seems people were paying the premium to support domestic businesses, which makes sense
Click to expand...
I agree, and I usually will also. But I expect more from it. I'm not in the business of supporting corporate welfare and getting nothing from it. Like if I'm going to pay $1000 for a $350 battery, I expect them to at least deliver on their terms... otherwise I'm giving them $650 to be jerkin their gherkin. I'd rather give my money to a veteran's charity.

My example of me paying way more for something related to this thread that is American made because it's worth it is the Micro-Air ASY-399-X20. I can buy four of the Chinese knockoffs for what they cost.

Another example of questionable worth it semi-related to this thread are Baja Built wheels. Worth it? Or just buy Innov8 or TrailReady? Everyone claims they can't get blanks and stuff domestically but somehow Dicastal and Superior Industries in just Michigan alone can still make wheels... and what's up with their Revo tire deflators not being sold in the US anymore? Apex Designs?
 
Got the awning swapped out....

Then the toilet valve started to leak.. :flipoff: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

20260525_110306.jpg
20260525_182519_1.jpg
20260525_115235.jpg
 
In the past I've mentioned all the sound deadening I've done to my motorhome. I have a Chevy Express 4500 Cutaway. I have torn apart most of the interior adding Dynamat to everything and spraying in a lot of closed cell Loctite foam in the structure. I have done similar to the hood and airbox. I have added seals all over the place. It's pretty quiet.

TLDR: Anyone try Design Engineering Incorporated products on a motorhome for heat and noise? I've always used either Dynamat or Thermo-tec (aka Cool-it) which is an Ohio company.




Well, it's still not quiet enough so that's why I'm asking. I'm going to try to tear apart the front fiberglass cap from the inside and put some Dynamat Xtreme on that also. I can hear some buffeting. It actually got better when I removed the foam bed and replaced it with a rubber mat. But anyway.

I have the interior mostly quiet as far as noise... except when the engine is singing along at 3000rpm or more (often on the expressway/70mph when towing the Rubicant with a breeze). The rest of the time it's all wind noise. I have some Bad Ideas(TM) for dealing with wind noise, which I think is mostly the gutters on the cab.

I am planning on tearing apart the interior again to add a ton of insulation to the floor above the transmission. I'm going to make the floor flat from the center console/doghouse to the coach part. So about another 1.5" of insulation, I think I'm going to use cattle rubber. I think this should mute a lot of the transmission noise.


The engine/transmission noise is significant. Much of the engine noise comes through the ductwork and is actually more related to the engine air intake so if I leave it on floor vent then the noise is much less as it has to travel through all the ductwork (that I applied Dynamat to and sealed with polyurethane). A noteworthy amount of it is mostly coming through the windshield area once you get to 4000rpm. But you can still hear the reaction shell and the exhaust. In certain circumstances the exhaust is the loudest part.


I would like to get it so the loudest part is the wind and clutch engine fan.


Now I'm looking at DEI stuff to go under. I've been trying to avoid under vehicle work except for some rubber I added.

I ordered a muffler wrap kit aka DEI 10529
My muffler is way back maybe 6' behind the passenger seat. The muffler is typical Duramax style and is 25" long and 34" in circumference. Will this help much in noise? I've only used the Thermo-tec stuff and it did help. I mostly am doing this to get rid of some heat (roasts your feet at the dinette).

I ordered a 2 sqft piece of the peel and stick DEI Floor & Tunnel Shield II 50501 as a trial. I picked this because they claim the adhesive is good to 400. Well, my catalytic converter heat shields are a little over 1" away from the cats, so I was going to put it there. I'm also going to try to piece it above the transmission and other places between the engine and the muffler. Do you have experience with using this so close to the cats? I'm not opposed to buying something else since I'm going to need a lot of this to do the whole job.

Lastly, I ordered a header wrap kit via DEI 010095 ***anium Exhaust Heat Wrap Kit to do before the cats, between the upstream cats and the downstream cat, and after the cat until the muffler. I probably need more like 400' of 2" to do all of that, but this was a trial. I've always used the black stuff from Thermo-Tec but this stuff from DEI is supposed to be more durable. It should get me about 1db in noise reduction. Is it worth it? I'm afraid of cooking the cats and was considering not doing between the manifolds and the first cats.
 
Sounds like wild overkill for the header wrap to go all the way back :eek:

The pursuit of cutting down the noise is admirable though and I appreciate you sharing your thoughts and results.
 
wrath said:
In the past I've mentioned all the sound deadening I've done to my motorhome. I have a Chevy Express 4500 Cutaway. I have torn apart most of the interior adding Dynamat to everything and spraying in a lot of closed cell Loctite foam in the structure. I have done similar to the hood and airbox. I have added seals all over the place. It's pretty quiet.

TLDR: Anyone try Design Engineering Incorporated products on a motorhome for heat and noise? I've always used either Dynamat or Thermo-tec (aka Cool-it) which is an Ohio company.




Well, it's still not quiet enough so that's why I'm asking. I'm going to try to tear apart the front fiberglass cap from the inside and put some Dynamat Xtreme on that also. I can hear some buffeting. It actually got better when I removed the foam bed and replaced it with a rubber mat. But anyway.

I have the interior mostly quiet as far as noise... except when the engine is singing along at 3000rpm or more (often on the expressway/70mph when towing the Rubicant with a breeze). The rest of the time it's all wind noise. I have some Bad Ideas(TM) for dealing with wind noise, which I think is mostly the gutters on the cab.

I am planning on tearing apart the interior again to add a ton of insulation to the floor above the transmission. I'm going to make the floor flat from the center console/doghouse to the coach part. So about another 1.5" of insulation, I think I'm going to use cattle rubber. I think this should mute a lot of the transmission noise.


The engine/transmission noise is significant. Much of the engine noise comes through the ductwork and is actually more related to the engine air intake so if I leave it on floor vent then the noise is much less as it has to travel through all the ductwork (that I applied Dynamat to and sealed with polyurethane). A noteworthy amount of it is mostly coming through the windshield area once you get to 4000rpm. But you can still hear the reaction shell and the exhaust. In certain circumstances the exhaust is the loudest part.


I would like to get it so the loudest part is the wind and clutch engine fan.


Now I'm looking at DEI stuff to go under. I've been trying to avoid under vehicle work except for some rubber I added.

I ordered a muffler wrap kit aka DEI 10529
My muffler is way back maybe 6' behind the passenger seat. The muffler is typical Duramax style and is 25" long and 34" in circumference. Will this help much in noise? I've only used the Thermo-tec stuff and it did help. I mostly am doing this to get rid of some heat (roasts your feet at the dinette).

I ordered a 2 sqft piece of the peel and stick DEI Floor & Tunnel Shield II 50501 as a trial. I picked this because they claim the adhesive is good to 400. Well, my catalytic converter heat shields are a little over 1" away from the cats, so I was going to put it there. I'm also going to try to piece it above the transmission and other places between the engine and the muffler. Do you have experience with using this so close to the cats? I'm not opposed to buying something else since I'm going to need a lot of this to do the whole job.

Lastly, I ordered a header wrap kit via DEI 010095 ***anium Exhaust Heat Wrap Kit to do before the cats, between the upstream cats and the downstream cat, and after the cat until the muffler. I probably need more like 400' of 2" to do all of that, but this was a trial. I've always used the black stuff from Thermo-Tec but this stuff from DEI is supposed to be more durable. It should get me about 1db in noise reduction. Is it worth it? I'm afraid of cooking the cats and was considering not doing between the manifolds and the first cats.
Click to expand...
Holy hell you're gonna be itching for a week.

Love the thoroughness of the madness.
 
wrath said:
In the past I've mentioned all the sound deadening I've done to my motorhome. I have a Chevy Express 4500 Cutaway. I have torn apart most of the interior adding Dynamat to everything and spraying in a lot of closed cell Loctite foam in the structure. I have done similar to the hood and airbox. I have added seals all over the place. It's pretty quiet.

TLDR: Anyone try Design Engineering Incorporated products on a motorhome for heat and noise? I've always used either Dynamat or Thermo-tec (aka Cool-it) which is an Ohio company.




Well, it's still not quiet enough so that's why I'm asking. I'm going to try to tear apart the front fiberglass cap from the inside and put some Dynamat Xtreme on that also. I can hear some buffeting. It actually got better when I removed the foam bed and replaced it with a rubber mat. But anyway.

I have the interior mostly quiet as far as noise... except when the engine is singing along at 3000rpm or more (often on the expressway/70mph when towing the Rubicant with a breeze). The rest of the time it's all wind noise. I have some Bad Ideas(TM) for dealing with wind noise, which I think is mostly the gutters on the cab.

I am planning on tearing apart the interior again to add a ton of insulation to the floor above the transmission. I'm going to make the floor flat from the center console/doghouse to the coach part. So about another 1.5" of insulation, I think I'm going to use cattle rubber. I think this should mute a lot of the transmission noise.


The engine/transmission noise is significant. Much of the engine noise comes through the ductwork and is actually more related to the engine air intake so if I leave it on floor vent then the noise is much less as it has to travel through all the ductwork (that I applied Dynamat to and sealed with polyurethane). A noteworthy amount of it is mostly coming through the windshield area once you get to 4000rpm. But you can still hear the reaction shell and the exhaust. In certain circumstances the exhaust is the loudest part.


I would like to get it so the loudest part is the wind and clutch engine fan.


Now I'm looking at DEI stuff to go under. I've been trying to avoid under vehicle work except for some rubber I added.

I ordered a muffler wrap kit aka DEI 10529
My muffler is way back maybe 6' behind the passenger seat. The muffler is typical Duramax style and is 25" long and 34" in circumference. Will this help much in noise? I've only used the Thermo-tec stuff and it did help. I mostly am doing this to get rid of some heat (roasts your feet at the dinette).

I ordered a 2 sqft piece of the peel and stick DEI Floor & Tunnel Shield II 50501 as a trial. I picked this because they claim the adhesive is good to 400. Well, my catalytic converter heat shields are a little over 1" away from the cats, so I was going to put it there. I'm also going to try to piece it above the transmission and other places between the engine and the muffler. Do you have experience with using this so close to the cats? I'm not opposed to buying something else since I'm going to need a lot of this to do the whole job.

Lastly, I ordered a header wrap kit via DEI 010095 ***anium Exhaust Heat Wrap Kit to do before the cats, between the upstream cats and the downstream cat, and after the cat until the muffler. I probably need more like 400' of 2" to do all of that, but this was a trial. I've always used the black stuff from Thermo-Tec but this stuff from DEI is supposed to be more durable. It should get me about 1db in noise reduction. Is it worth it? I'm afraid of cooking the cats and was considering not doing between the manifolds and the first cats.
Click to expand...
Big thick Jute padding does a lot more for noise insulation than a dynomat, IMO you really need both.
 
Pretty sure this ****er went in before the cabinets did.

20260528_194643.jpg


After much fighting and almost slicing the tip of my finger off on the razor sharp sheetmetal, it came out. **** that thing and the engineer that put it there.
 
Circling back to the victron circus. Figured out why I can't find the settings........

Screenshot_20260529_153309_Chrome.jpg


Yup, that's right. Have to hook it up to a PC. Just another **** you from Victron. Betting money that does not go well either.

Edit, you also have to buy thier proprietary USB to VEbus connector for 60$. ****ed yet again. This is supposed to talk to GX devices too so maybe it will help with the control panel ****ing.
 
Last edited:
bdkw1 said:
Circling back to the victron circus. Figured out why I can't find the settings........

Screenshot_20260529_153309_Chrome.jpg


Yup, that's right. Have to hook it up to a PC. Just another **** you from Victron. Betting money that does not go well either.

Edit, you also have to buy thier proprietary USB to VEbus connector for 60$. ****ed yet again. This is supposed to talk to GX devices too so maybe it will help with the control panel ****ing.
Click to expand...
Can you see the Multiplus 2 through the VRM? If not, might be worth hot spotting a phone if you don’t have WiFi near the RV.
If so, then you can remotely download and edit the VE config file then load the new settings through VRM.
 
Gumbybronco said:
Can you see the Multiplus 2 through the VRM? If not, might be worth hot spotting a phone if you don’t have WiFi near the RV.
If so, then you can remotely download and edit the VE config file then load the new settings through VRM.
Click to expand...
I do not have VRM. Setting that up looks like another clusterfuck which is why I've been avoiding it. Having to go through a web portal to adjust the hardware right in front of you is just another level of **** you.
 
I get all that. And it’s why I added the Cerbo GX.
The VRM is free and won’t be needed after set up. I sat on my couch on my iPad to do it. My whole property has WiFi, so easy access. The VE config I edited on my desktop and then sent it to the Multiplus 2 via the VRM.
The VRM could be used for remote monitoring, but why?
 
bdkw1 said:
Van life bro! Got my diesel heaters in.

20260529_144326.jpg


But seriously, I've got 20g of propane and 120g of diesel. 1 for the front and 1 for the bedroom, each with its own thermostat. Double bonus, will have a flat floor in the cabinet now.
Click to expand...
I'm fixing to do the same, what's the plan on ducting, are you trying in to the original ducting or running new?

I was way overthinking how to add fans etc. to connect to existing ducting but I think I should just dump it in the living room and see how it goes first.
 
CarterKraft said:
I'm fixing to do the same, what's the plan on ducting, are you trying in to the original ducting or running new?

I was way overthinking how to add fans etc. to connect to existing ducting but I think I should just dump it in the living room and see how it goes first.
Click to expand...
Reusing the original ducting. The line that went to the rear has a vent right next to the heater so that will get abandoned. Stupid place for it anyway, it's less than a foot from the air inlet.
 
I just ordered wiper seals. Mine has some C channel double seal thing that wraps on the inside. I'm going to cut it and do the outside. They deteriorated from the previous owner living in it, or just being 10+ years old. Most of the bump seal (D shaped thing) isn't even there and the sticky adhesive reside left on the skis is going to be a BITCH to clean off.

Good thing the previous owner HAD to have the 'artic package.' Wouldn't want to be cold when those old seals are ripped and you never replaced them.
 
CarterKraft said:
This is the fan I was looking at using, the RV heaters supposedly don't like long duct runs or high pressure.

Click to expand...
That link is to an ammeter.

Mine came with some ducting which is smaller than the RV stuff. The rear is a pretty long run, but it splits into 2 pretty quick. One side does the holding tank compartment (not sure how I feel about that) and the other does the bedroom. The front one is maybe 6' long. It "should" work. If not, booster fan.

The heated tank area is bothering me, it pulls air from the coach and dumps it down there with no return. You wouldn't want a return anyway, but it's pulling cold air into the coach to do this. One thought I have is blocking that vent then plumbing the exhuast from the heaters through there to reclaim exhuast heat.

That's a future me problem.
 
20260601_193829.jpg

Shocker, it doesn't ****ing work. Open Vconfig and it instantly wants to update. OK, locks itself up. Restart, OK, go to plug in the MK3. USB mouse goes crazy. Have to cntrl alt del to get to task manger and close down Vconfig so things go back to normal.

I'm at a loss here, other than lighting this **** on fire I don't know what to do. Every time I try to do something that should be stone simple it just snowballs into a giant clusterfuck. Apparently throwing money at it isn't the answer either.
 
I tried following this guys video to the letter but I can't even get to the com port selection before it ****s up the computer.



He vids are a lot more independent than the shirty victron ones that just assume you've all ready done a bunch of ****.
 
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