rattle_snake
****wits
Do you think the 3.55 will work well with the diesel and trans you have vs the 3.73s?
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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
1974 Crew: Cummins, Manual, Tons...Poor Financial Decisions
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #62
rattle_snake Yeah, that lower bolt is missing out of choice; I was fighting getting it in one day and they said "**** it".....and the bolts not been in for probably a year and a half lol.
Leaves are Alcans, and I put those in probably about a year and a half ago (when I took the anti wrap bar off
)I was young and dumb and went with compression shackles. Added the bags when I realized I needed to be able to hold more weight.
At this point the Fummins is getting the new axles, turbo in the future, and a llittle cleanup. Not looking to redo major things until the F100 is done (and I buy a house)
Oh, and the steering arm hiem: Im 100% open to a tie rod suggestion. Maybe a chevy TRE and one of those split tapered inserts? Honestly open to suggestions.
3:55 versus 3:73 - Right now at 2100 rpm I cruise at around 78. Its a ZF6 Ford tranny with the granny low (and overdrive, which is 5th). My intent with the ratio change was dropping RPM a smidge on the highway. With the tires and all that jazz I have no issue starting from a stop, so not too worried about the impact on the low end of things.
rattle_snake
****wits
For the pitman, can you grab another out of the wrecking yard and reem it for the chebby TRE? Not sure what box you are running.
MoparMoe
Hackmaster General
Trim the damn bolts ....
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #65
Wheeled the axles outside.
Fired up the 20year old "oiless" Craftsman air compressor.
Grabbed my Thermal-Dynamics that I bought in Alamogordo NM......and started cutting.
Biggest pain was the spring perches. They were stuck on pretty good, and I had to figure out the technique for cutting the weld away with the plasma.
Rear cut:
Rear cleaned:
Front cut and cleaned:
*Note: On the last go around I cut the ENTIRE shock/sway bar metal away, basically making the axle smooth as a babies bottom. This go around I'm too lazy and just want to do what's necessary to get the ****ers in and look halfway decent.
I also planned to use the 2017 stock front sway bar and mounts....BUT when I held it up under the truck I realized that it doesn't jive AT ALL with my steering box and literally wont work in any way. So following that discovery I cut off the stock sway bar tabs. Real bummer as I was looking to leave them on AND was looking forward to haviing a front sway bar.
Need to go back with the plasma and cut this. Ran out of free time, so coming back to clean up this area will be one evening this week after work. My track bar mount basically sits right in the center.
Fired up the 20year old "oiless" Craftsman air compressor.
Grabbed my Thermal-Dynamics that I bought in Alamogordo NM......and started cutting.
Biggest pain was the spring perches. They were stuck on pretty good, and I had to figure out the technique for cutting the weld away with the plasma.
Rear cut:
Rear cleaned:
Front cut and cleaned:
*Note: On the last go around I cut the ENTIRE shock/sway bar metal away, basically making the axle smooth as a babies bottom. This go around I'm too lazy and just want to do what's necessary to get the ****ers in and look halfway decent.
I also planned to use the 2017 stock front sway bar and mounts....BUT when I held it up under the truck I realized that it doesn't jive AT ALL with my steering box and literally wont work in any way. So following that discovery I cut off the stock sway bar tabs. Real bummer as I was looking to leave them on AND was looking forward to haviing a front sway bar.
Need to go back with the plasma and cut this. Ran out of free time, so coming back to clean up this area will be one evening this week after work. My track bar mount basically sits right in the center.
Levigarrett76
Glass Half Empty
Is that an M275 rear? Always wondered axle shaft size/spline count on those.
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #67
Levigarrett76 , yes sir. It is an M275. Im not sure on spline count but I can yank an acle shaft this weekend if you're truly curious? Compared to the Sterling I know these axle tubes are 4'' and the ring gear i think is 11'' or 11.5''
I drew up some 2.25'' wide spring perches with a 4'' radius for the M275 and had Sens-Cut-Send cut and bend them. No one made any that were these dimensions (they make 3'' and 3.5'' axle tube diameters) and I figured for almost the same cost as buying the wrong ones...I could have someone make me the right ones :p
Open to input on how the welds look. I'm confident they arent going to fail, but would love input if anyone has any.
These were a little dusty:
Perches and shock mounts welded on:
Painted with the new rotors, calipers and pads. I bought ebay drilled and slotted rotors, generic pads, and some of the cheapest calipers. My other axles I bought powerstop everything (pads, rotors, calipers) but powerstop prices are through the roof....so went cheap as can be. If I complain in six months about the calipers sucking, flag me for being a cheap ass. Admittedly Ive replaced all the calipers on numerous cars Ive owned with the cheapies and havent had issue yet!
I had a couple rusty sip tie tabs in the bottom of my metal box, so I welded them in to the ends of the perches to have an attachment point for the lines
Initial plan was to reuse the all the stock lines, but:
1) Due to fancy ABDS, Ford plumbs lines on individual circuits...my plan was to T them all together at a union at the breather
2) The three way union (T) I bought didnt have the same threads as the stock ford lines, and I didnt want to wast any of my shiny new parts, so I cut the ends off the stock lines. Used some nickel copper I had and made lines that have the oddball Ford sizing on one end, and 3/8-24 on the other that screw into the union
3) Im a genius I know.......unit I run into issue and then need a custom line
Fully pained and plumbed, ready to go in. Now I can start on the front!
I drew up some 2.25'' wide spring perches with a 4'' radius for the M275 and had Sens-Cut-Send cut and bend them. No one made any that were these dimensions (they make 3'' and 3.5'' axle tube diameters) and I figured for almost the same cost as buying the wrong ones...I could have someone make me the right ones :p
Open to input on how the welds look. I'm confident they arent going to fail, but would love input if anyone has any.
These were a little dusty:
Perches and shock mounts welded on:
Painted with the new rotors, calipers and pads. I bought ebay drilled and slotted rotors, generic pads, and some of the cheapest calipers. My other axles I bought powerstop everything (pads, rotors, calipers) but powerstop prices are through the roof....so went cheap as can be. If I complain in six months about the calipers sucking, flag me for being a cheap ass. Admittedly Ive replaced all the calipers on numerous cars Ive owned with the cheapies and havent had issue yet!
I had a couple rusty sip tie tabs in the bottom of my metal box, so I welded them in to the ends of the perches to have an attachment point for the lines
Initial plan was to reuse the all the stock lines, but:
1) Due to fancy ABDS, Ford plumbs lines on individual circuits...my plan was to T them all together at a union at the breather
2) The three way union (T) I bought didnt have the same threads as the stock ford lines, and I didnt want to wast any of my shiny new parts, so I cut the ends off the stock lines. Used some nickel copper I had and made lines that have the oddball Ford sizing on one end, and 3/8-24 on the other that screw into the union
3) Im a genius I know.......unit I run into issue and then need a custom line
Fully pained and plumbed, ready to go in. Now I can start on the front!
Attachments
Levigarrett76
Glass Half Empty
Damn looking good
Dont pull a shaft on account of me was just curious if you knew.
Clean ass work!
Dont pull a shaft on account of me was just curious if you knew.
Clean ass work!