Build Project Iron III Oxide: A Snowball Effect

D_JEEPER · Apr 19, 2026

Well I was fed up with the fan mount dovthis evening I got some measurements for brake lines and started poking at limiting straps implementation ideas.

I also played around with limiting the steering angle a bit. The 4340 shafts are a bit beefier and prevent as tight of a turn without binding the ears. I could probably grind things down but dont think the gains is worth the pain. Plus less angle should stress the joints a bit less under binding.

Another thing I dabbled with some more was the steering stabilizer. I need to buy a clamp for the tie rod to fit the 1.5" OD steering. Debating on just using a free bolt holes on the track bar tower at the axle. I think that would work decent enough for a steering stabilizer.

After getting measurements there I went to play with e brake lines. I think this will be pretty straight forward with some more wrench time.

Tomorrow will be a bit expensive I think :emb:

D_JEEPER · Apr 20, 2026

Well, crap. Exhaust Y-pipe missed by a mile. Looking closely at the Ram 1500 headers, they are very similar but super long off of the collector compared to the grand cherocar headers. No way to make that work so it looks like I might need to get a custom exhaust shop job in the future :-/

For now, to get it running, I can run this current y-pipe but there's no way it would be offroad capable. :emb:

D_JEEPER · Apr 20, 2026

Got a package from Hotwire Auto today that included an extension for the speedometer sensor and an extension for the IAT sensor to jump across to the other side of the intake. Ill have to solder that one on but that's easy. They even sent me their heat shrink so it will look just like the rest. I will have to do that tomorrow.
I did, however, get the fuel sending unit wires ran and secured to the back so thats all done. I did some tidying in the engine bay as well as along the trans tunnel. Im not entirely sure I wont be back up in there tinkering with getting everything looking a bit more factory and secured. I might end up buying some bigger split loom than what I have on hand so I can bundle and branch it out. Something about wires just bouncing around, even when encased in a thick heat shrink....makes me uneasy for long term wear.

Anyways, aside from that I played around with the emergency brake cables. I think I have things figured out for the most part. Going to snip the housing and button that up. I will begin on the exhaust work at some point this week just to get things ran.

Having the exhaust in place will let me figure out trans lines. Still a bit uneasy about that... trying to figure out the best way to do that because right not it looks like these evil energy fittings are going to be rather proud towards the driveshaft, even with a 90 degree turn. From there its like....do I run up the back of the transmission or is there some other secret sauce to avoid hot pipes and thus, unexpected rapid oxidation event.

Still on the search for a grand cherokee y pipe that doesnt nut drag across boulders easily...

D_JEEPER · Apr 21, 2026

Nothing too crazy tonight but I was able to finish the e-brake install. I need to do final adjustments once the brakes are pumped up but they seem to do pretty well right now as it is. The cables routed pretty well and have a bit of travel available.

Speaking of brakes, I need to start thinking about my master cylinder and whether it will be able to pump these one ton disc brake calipers. I have a feeling I will have a lot of travel at the pedal right now. Any recommendations there? Ill probably hyper-fixate on that tomorrow.

Tomorrow I have a bunch of parts coming. The radiator fan and controller, some junkyard special bits for the 46re shifter, mount as well as the LDP and canister module. That should keep me busy for a bit.

Ill need to jump on the exhaust at some point soon. Ive admitted defeat on trying to find a y pipe that doesnt taint drag the oil pan. It will just have to be a custom shop job I suppose. The big decision there is do I loop around the front of the pan or squeeze under the tranny. Thinking front so I can keep the excess heat from cooking the tranny.

D_JEEPER · Apr 22, 2026

Got my proform 16" s blade fan and controller today. Opted for a direct mount solution. The fan is nice and low profile with good glass reinforced plastic body. Not much weight to it.

I yanked out the radiator and had to work on it off the jeep since the ac exchanger was in front of it and I had no way to get the zips through. I used the foam pads on both sides and zipped it down fairly snug to help eliminate the potential for rattle, vibrating and chewing through the radiator. Reinstalling showed about 1" clearance between the fan motor and the water pump fan threads :eek:

. However it isnt really all that scary because neither of those should really budge to get close.

Another little tidbit was to replace the hood latches. My old ones were crusty and chalky. These were $14. I also installed the rubber hood bump pads by the latches too. Keeps the hood from sitting directly on the fenders.

I got my box of junkyard parts to include the auto pedal assembly with proper 6 pin switch, the evap canister and pump, as well as the trams tunnel shifter plate.

The shifter plate fits perfect as I had hoped. However the shifter is a bit too tall and will just smack the dash in Park. I cannot bend it back because of the internal lever setup. I might end up just cutting it down in length and making it about 3" shorter or so. Also my shift cable is like 4" too short.....so that has to be one of my next rabbit holes.

D_JEEPER · Apr 23, 2026

Got to thinking about my shifter. The XJ shifters bend back. I was trying to think how a hard linkage transfer bar thing inside of the shifter tube would allow a bend....then some extensive google-fu revealed that the thing inside of the handle is actually an anal bead IUD looking thing that flexes. I'm fairly certain I've seen this part in a medical commercial before...

Not 35%:

So I think my plan here is to put the shifter in a press and give it about 15-20 degrees of a bend to pull the handle away from the dash a few inches.

D_JEEPER · Apr 23, 2026

Didn't get time to mess with the shifter tonight but I did get get the auto pedal swapped in. In case you're wondering....all of this stamped steel is just as sharp as Daimler-Chrysler made it back in 1996.

What an awkward and contorting effort that was. There are bolts on the bottom side of the very top of the dash assembly, in addition to the firewall ones tucked away behind other brackets. Anyways I think my jeep is trans now or something? Trans transmission type? I dunno....

I did some more research on evap can trickery and I am going to try it. Essentially you just loop the vac pump back to itself and it will just check itself for leaks. Im still running the factory charcoal canister though.

D_JEEPER · Apr 24, 2026

Had a short hour today to get some work done so I decided to tackle the shifter. Knowing there was plastic inside I decided to disassemble everything. Luckily no surprises here.

My original goal was to use my shop press to bend the shift tube but after seeing how snug the plastic anal beads fit I decided I could not afford to kink or smash the tube. So fire was now involved, blingy chrome finish be damned.

I had a long pipe that sleeved the shift tube almost perfectly but I didnt want to bend the forked part that the shifter handle snaps into. I found an Allen bolt that was a very snug fit and threaded it in, extending past the forked area. I got the torch on and applied heat until it was a mild red. Knowing what tube does when you bend it, I know I wanted to try to stretch the back rather than compress the front. I focused my heat right on the back and tried to avoid the sides as much as possible so it did not get oblong.

As I bent one section a little, I slowly moved the cherry down the shift tube to distribute the bend over longer distance as to not stretch the back too thin and make it weak or snap.

Once it was finished and cooled, I found a little resistance at the bend for the anal beads. I took two sides of the leading part just a little flat so it could make the radius of the turn. I was able to make the turn but had a little more resistance than necessary at the button. I found there was just a little bit of drag on two sides of the intermediate beads so I tapped those with the flap wheel as well.

All in all I think it came out great. The reach is natural from my seat and the distance to surrounding objects is nominal.

After that was sorted I vented my frustrations on the shift cable. I found it was actually snagged and with a firm pull from the driver seat, it finally fits. Woo!

Now to decide if I go through the trouble of the gear selector interlock or just leave it as is.

D_JEEPER · Apr 25, 2026

Simple thing tonight.... just buttoning up the shifter. Turns out I wont be able to easily use the woodgrain bezel unfortunately. I can use the manual boot and such to at least tidy it up. I dont really need the shift indicator but might retrofit something later. For now it works as is. The shifter is somewhat small profile but works well for my reach. I played with putting the center console in place and realized I will need a support welded to the current plate to mount the center console to.

D_JEEPER · Apr 26, 2026

Had only about an hour today to get some work done. I was going to cop out and just bolt the tail lights on and bail but decided to get that center console support bracket built.

Not much to it, just a good piece of steel bent into a semi-u shape and riveted onto the shifter plate. On the manual, it was on the trans tunnel plate but that was only accessible too far off of center to replicate on the auto one.

After that I bolted the rear tail lights on anyways. Looking more and more like my old jeep :)

My next goal is to run the y pipe and get the transmission cooler lines ran to the radiator. I will have to figure something creative out to avoid the exhaust but I did end up buying more of that heat resistant wrap to put the hoses in.

The Freeak · Apr 27, 2026

Hell yeah. solid progress!

D_JEEPER · Apr 27, 2026

Well tonight was SUPPOSED to be transmission lines but some idiot ordered the wrong fittings for the radiator and realized he needed some different angles on the trans lines right at the transmission.

So diverting from that, after ordering the proper parts, I went back to the engine bay and soldered in the extension for my intake air temp sensor. Got that checked off.

Next I got under the front end and messed around with the steering stabilizer. I had an idea about setting it up on one of the unused holes of the track bar tower bracket. After testing that theory I went forward with it. I used one of thise double sided stud bolts that fit completely through the tower on one end but had the smooth shank on the other for a shock mount.

I turned down a piece of steel sleeve to act as a spacer between the sides of the tower, for the bolt to compress against without deforming the bracket.

After that I bolted on the tie rod clamp after I measured a good spot that wouldn't bottom out the stabilizer on max wheel lock.

Seems to work well! I will just need to center it up when Im all done and of course flex test it for any unforseen clearance issues.

D_JEEPER · Apr 28, 2026

Got more 6an fittings in tonight and got to work playing around with tranny cooler line routing. I think I want to anchor to the passenger fender, jump to the battery tray and then to the firewall. I do plan to wrap this whole run in the heat/abrasion foil wrap, buddying the lines together inside.

Im a little concerned with exhaust manifold proximity but maybe Im over reacting. My fuel line and shift cable takes a similar route.
I will be within inches of some sort of exhaust no matter how I go to the transmission. I had the thought to jump to the top of the valve covers and ride that back but that means hopping over belts and that's a no from me. I could go down the driver side but that's hopping across the radiator and then dodging steering, driveshaft and upper control arm movement, so that's out.

The picture Ill post shows my most plausible run.... open to critique or suggestions.

Another thing I did today was ditch the manual shifter boot in the console and found a shift bezel online for a TJ. It has the gear indicator which can slide around, depending on how the console is mounted and located by a tab and socket. I just set it up so it was accurate and put some RTV on the sliding part on the back side of the bezel, out of view.

D_JEEPER · Apr 29, 2026

Tonight turned out to be a split loom party, although my original plan was to run the tranny cooler lines. Well, I got to looking and decided I needed to clean things up to better find the clear path to victory.

Hotwire Auto supplied the harness with some awesome and thick feeling heatshrink on all of the wires... but I kind of wanted to do a bit more to protect against long term vibration against sharp edges. This is my "forever Jeep" project so I try to think long term for most things. Quality, durability, serviceability, etc. Even though Im sure the harness supplied would have been fine.... split loom is cheap and now is easier to install than later. Plus it gives me a chance to reroute wires and make it flow better.

Under the jeep I loomed up the trans and transfer case lines after installing the 120 degree an6 fitting onto the tranny line.

After that I got to work in the engine bay. Everything leads back to one main loom that goes to the computer. My plan was to split loom the branches back to the main bundle and then use some good gorilla duck tape to cluster them all in.

Still some more tidying to do and maybe some zip ties to secure things but it cleaned up decent.

Im also planning to buy some fiberglass backed foil heat shield and affix that to my exhaust manifold. Not only will it protect the surrounding parts (intermediate steering bushing comes to mind) but should help with under hood temps a bit too. Ill just have to form them in place and tie them on with stainless zip ties. The manifolds have a center bolt designed for this purpose.

We will see how that goes.

D_JEEPER · Apr 30, 2026

Did some testing and I think I might have a way forward. I ran the 6an lines along the top of the trans and then will jump over top of the exhaust at the firewall. I can run the fender to the radiator. How I get down the fender is still a little mystery but I will have to figure it out as I go.

I plan to make the fiberglass heat shields tomorrow so that will help with the fear of fire. I saw tests where the header was 700 degrees and the outer surface of the heat panel was like 140 degrees.

D_JEEPER · May 1, 2026

Well tonight I spent an hour and a half molding cooking pan backed angry pillow fluff.

I made some heat shields for the manifolds. They cover most if it except for the inboard side. Aside from the trans lines, I really needed it on the driver side for the steering shaft intermediate bushing which was like 2" from the manifold.

I was able to bolt it to the manifolds with a single center bolt but I plan yo steek wire tie it to the ends of the manifolds as well just to keep it in place.

This was unpleasant and I might just get the overpriced factory ones next time if there is a next time.

RunningProblem · May 2, 2026

They look a lot cooler (style and function meanings) than factory.

D_JEEPER · May 2, 2026

RunningProblem said:
They look a lot cooler (style and function meanings) than factory.

Haha, That was one of the thoughts I had when it was all done....
"Hey! It looks newer than the rusted cast iron headers that were on there!"

But yeah, the factory ones do not wrap around like these do. They are kind of like a CAT shield where they block one portion of the hot part. They were also fairly thin vs this 1/2" thick part This should help immensely, I think. They arent as clean looking as a press-formed part (given I had to slice reliefs for the spark plug tubes) but the function will still be there.

Kinda wish I splurged on BASALT to prevent the little **** fibers from stabbing into my arms but it was a significant cost increase. I could always do that later I suppose if I decide to upgrade. I think once the initial loose fibers find their way out it will stop shedding.

D_JEEPER · May 2, 2026

Tonight I was able to finish routing the trans cooler lines. I only had about 2 hours before I hit midnight...which is my forced cutoff time so I dont end up being out there until 5am in a hyperfixated state :laughing:

I made a slight change and ran it along the firewall, behind the battery tray and to the inner edge of the fender. This keeps it out of danger aside from right near the exhaust manifold. I have it on a stud mounted zip tie but I fear long term heat induced deterioration leading to failure, leading to hoses on hot header leading to fire. So I am going to use a 1.5" hose mount on the stud at the firewall to ensure that doesnt happen.

Other than that, I bolted up the side panels on the fenders as well as ran my washer hose to the hood. Small steps but steps nonetheless.

D_JEEPER · May 3, 2026

Cant remember who said it but someone mentioned the bumper style and a lot of tire bounce causing issues with the rear crossmember. Well that hasn't slipped my mind so I finally came up with a simple mitigation. I used a dense foam bump stop from my wife f250, which got replaced by airbags, and used that to preload against when closing the destaco latch. I set it up so it compresses about 1/2". Should help dampen any sort of oscillatory movement. (And No, it isnt a fleshlight....)

After that I dove into the Leak Detection Pump system, finally. I decided Im going to remove the new style charcoal canister since I have my original one and I will simply tee into that line that runs to the tank. This will hold pressure during the pressure test because the purge valve will be closed, and that is upstream from the can.
On a whim, I used some air to see how the tank holds pressure, if any, and it does, really well. I hooked a hose to the metal line running to the rollover valve splitter in the back and put some compressed air into it....probably way beyond what this LDP will do. I didnt hear any leaks or anything and was met with a big rush of air when I cracked the gas cap.

I will need to find a t-fitting for the lines to split at the canister to make it work.

D_JEEPER · May 4, 2026

Got the LDP mounted tonight. I was trying to retain the original bracket but couldn't get it to fit in the space all mounted up. I opted to mount it to the wheel well portion of the fender and that seemed to work well. I swapped around and cut the hoses to put the air intake higher up....just in case.

I have some tee fittings and adapters coming to get this all hooked in and, hopefully, functional within specs. One of my concerns is thr 3/16" hard line causing a choke point for the pump to where it detects it as a leak vs a slower than expected fill of the system. It does only go to 1psi so I can't imagine it would take much to pump up anyways....slow or not.

I also stumbled across some firewall grommets and plugged up my old clutch master cylinder holes rather than fab up a block off plate like the factory has.

Dan_Goodwin · May 5, 2026

D_JEEPER said:
Well tonight I spent an hour and a half molding cooking pan backed angry pillow fluff.

I made some heat shields for the manifolds. They cover most if it except for the inboard side. Aside from the trans lines, I really needed it on the driver side for the steering shaft intermediate bushing which was like 2" from the manifold.

I was able to bolt it to the manifolds with a single center bolt but I plan yo steek wire tie it to the ends of the manifolds as well just to keep it in place.

This was unpleasant and I might just get the overpriced factory ones next time if there is a next time.

Do you have a link to this product?

D_JEEPER · May 5, 2026

Dan_Goodwin said:
Do you have a link to this product?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0C57BTPDK

Pretty much just cut it in half and then I had to trim about 2" off of the bottom. Start from the top and work your way around. Also... long sleeves and gauntlet gloves if you have them lol

D_JEEPER · May 5, 2026

Tonight was kind of a low output night. Did some cleanup on the wires, secured the trans cooler line with the stainless clamps at the firewall over the back of the manifold so it doesnt snap the zip tie over time and flame-on.

From there I started scouting a place for the trans O/D off switch. I think between the 4wd lever and shifter is a good safe spot. I used a flush, lighted momentary button. Just need to drill a hole and mount/wire it. So pretty much everything but luckily those wires are part of the harness.

I was also looking for a place to put the proform fan controller. The coin tray at the end of the center console might be a good place that is out of the way yet still accessible. I plan to wire in a master override switch as well which will bypass the controller and set the fan to 100%, just in case.

I only got part of my LDP retrofit hoses order so I have to wait until tomorrow to install that.

D_JEEPER · May 6, 2026

Dan_Goodwin said:
Do you have a link to this product?

Figured I would show how much coverage you get

D_JEEPER · May 6, 2026

Finally think I got this stupid LDP set up. Given that I have to use fuel lines or else they'd deteriorate quicker, the hoses are fairly stiff. It took a bit of finesse to get everything located where I wanted to. Hopefully it works. I still need to trim and shorten the wires going to the pump but that can be later when Im soldering in some other things like OD off button, vanity light harnesses and such.

I tried doing some work on the throttle cable but did not get very far. The ferrule ends I have arent small enough so I had to order more. sigh.

Oh well.... keep moving forward!

D_JEEPER · May 7, 2026

I have some small parts in limbo so I was scouting some more, trying to find a mounting solution for my fan controller. I might end up designing and printing something....then I can incorporate provisions for the master bypass switch too.

I cleaned out the jeep for the first time in 11 years too. Just wanted to move everything so I could work. I stripped out the old subwoofer and amplifier setup, cb wires, etc. Just reset. I did happen across some antique memorabilia and put those on the wall.

Then I sat in the jeep for a bit and just looked around. A bit of nostalgia but also trying to establish my command center radius for switchs and gauges. I plan to put a trans temp gauge in at some point and that might get integrated into the 3d printed part to hold the fan controller.

Speaking of fans, one of the other things I did was mounted the bung for the temp sensor to control the fans. It is on the cool side so I will have to adjust temp curves accordingly.

I also got under the dash and cleaned up/finished up wiring the brake pedal connectors and such to incorporate the auto trans stuff. I feel like these tiny tasks are going to be a drawn out thing for a while.... :emb:

D_JEEPER · May 8, 2026

Tonight was notes and intel recon. I mapped out ac, heater core and rad lines. The AC lines are a pain. Im trying to build my own through a site that has a DIY build type of components to roll your own. Having never done it before I am having to learn on the fly. So many different types of fittings, sensors, routines and such.

I ordered some power steering lines, heater core loop lines and more stuff. Should start coming in tomorrow.

Im getting closer and the fun tasks are pretty much done and now Im having to knock out the less than fun things :laughing:

D_JEEPER · May 9, 2026

Finally got the gas pedal hooked up tonight. The connectors on the throttle body look like what you'd find on any kick down cable....whereas the TJ had a ball type on the throttle body. Short of cutting or drilling the throttle body, I wanted to keep the original hardware unless I had to change it. Luckily the TJ throttle cable was long enough to reach the front of the throttle body and snap into place.

I found the proper cable end online for like $14. I just needed to find a way to stop the cable since I had to cut the factory one off. I used some screw type cable stops and cranked them down at the very very end. Full swing of the butterflies with barely an extra gap on the pedal to floor clearance so all is good.

Another thing did was prep for my new master cylinder for the one ton disc brakes front and rear. The front is dual piston and the rear Cadillac Eldorado brake calipers. I found a ram 1500 master for about $70, M6030 is the part number. Mixed reviews on running the stock prop valve vs gutting it. I'm going to run it as is for now.

I should also have heater core hoses coming tomorrow.

Another thing I bought was an inline thermostat union fitting that I plan to use with my autometer trans gauge.

D_JEEPER · May 10, 2026

Got some parts in. Was able to mock up the brake master cylinder, which is a bit longer than expected but worth it for better brakes. The charcoal canister might need to be relocated, but at a minimum the bracket needs to be reshaped. I need to also source a longer adjustment for the booster push rods. It is 1/4x28 so should be easy. Just need one that's about 2" or so.

I also got the heater core loop set up. It runs pretty well. I bought a pair of 4"x24" length 3/4" and 5/8" ID lines and they worked out perfectly. The 3/4" run is reduced by an elbow on the driver side and 5/8" completes the run. I seem to have forgotten to buy hose clamps, as well...doh.

The bracketed tube that runs into the water pump has an o-ring and I need to source one. I have one that fits but it definitely isnt as snug as Id like and it would suck to have that o ring be a source of disaster (Apollo 11 status)

Aside from that I also got in the power steering line but ran out of time. I opened a few more tasks in-progress tonight but didnt finish any :laughing: