Build Trying to get it mostly right the first time: A 5.9 and 46RE swapped Tummy Tucked Daily Driven Jeep TJ

Dan_Goodwin said:
Short answer is yes.

I was able to use the stock exhaust manifolds and Y pipe with the Advance Adapter mounts in their recommended location which was really convenient.

But.

The exhaust can easily be built to clear the firewall, either using the stock manifolds or headers. I can't create space for a larger fan or radiator where the space doesn't exist. I'll go into more details in a thread update, but the fans have done a fine job of keeping the Jeep cool around town and on the trail. It's still getting warmer than I'd like on the interstate but that's not necessarily a fan problem. The alternator handles the load alright but I'm going to replace the charge wire off the alternator (if I haven't already) and / or look into a higher output alternator.
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Good info. I also just got off the phone with Hotwireauto and they quoted 2k for the wiring harness job and $250 to flash the computer (security removal and VIN assignment) with an 8-10 week backlog. Not sure of anyone else who does the work and I just don't have that kind of patience nor confidence to not fry it haha.
 
Dan, you're going to hate seeing my posts haha....

Another one popped in my head as I am in the scouting/planning phase. Did you explicitly decide to NOT use a radiator with internal auto tranny cooling core and just go external?
I plan to run the AC system from the ZJ... did you go that route or retrofit things? I think on the ZJ, the pipes head off to the same side of the engine bay as the TJ so it should be pretty close for a bolt-up fit. Hard lines being hard lines, I don't expect that kind of luck
 
D_JEEPER said:
Good info. I also just got off the phone with Hotwireauto and they quoted 2k for the wiring harness job and $250 to flash the computer (security removal and VIN assignment) with an 8-10 week backlog. Not sure of anyone else who does the work and I just don't have that kind of patience nor confidence to not fry it haha.
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This was the first wiring job like this that I'd ever done and it was tough to get started but not bad once I got into it.
D_JEEPER said:
Dan, you're going to hate seeing my posts haha....

Another one popped in my head as I am in the scouting/planning phase. Did you explicitly decide to NOT use a radiator with internal auto tranny cooling core and just go external?
I plan to run the AC system from the ZJ... did you go that route or retrofit things? I think on the ZJ, the pipes head off to the same side of the engine bay as the TJ so it should be pretty close for a bolt-up fit. Hard lines being hard lines, I don't expect that kind of luck
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I prefer an aux cooler for insurance - in the event that there was an internal radiator failure I'm not mixing coolant and ATF.

The ZJ setup might bolt on (or come really close to doing so). I'm running a Dakota line set with (1) end that I crimped on myself and a short hose that I made myself. I bought a cheap crimper that did the job (and needs to get sold now that I think of it) and bought the fittings and hose online.
 
Dan_Goodwin said:
This was the first wiring job like this that I'd ever done and it was tough to get started but not bad once I got into it.

I prefer an aux cooler for insurance - in the event that there was an internal radiator failure I'm not mixing coolant and ATF.

The ZJ setup might bolt on (or come really close to doing so). I'm running a Dakota line set with (1) end that I crimped on myself and a short hose that I made myself. I bought a cheap crimper that did the job (and needs to get sold now that I think of it) and bought the fittings and hose online.
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Im pickin' up what you're putting down Lmao. I have a hydro shop right down the road from me though. They are on standby if any of our equipment blows a hydro line :D

All good things to know :) Im sorry to keep blowing up your build thread but this is good info! Hopefully others can benefit from it too.
 
Updating this thread to current day:

The 8.8 swap has been completed, as well as a fuel pump replacement for the sake of preventative maintenance. Having the tank out of the way made the axle swap a much more pleasant experience. I won’t go into detail on the 8.8 swap as it’s well documented elsewhere. I used the Barnes 4wd truss and am a big fan of it, with the only issue being 100% my fault - I welded the shock tabs on backwards. Even after checking.
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I needed to relocate the stock spring perches to correct the rear springs bowing after the pinion angle was set for this combo. Instead of relocating the stock perches, I clocked the truss so that the perches sit parallel at ride height, which also pulled the track bar out of the gas tank (they were previously trying to occupy the same space). While at it, the axle got a new pinion seal, outer bearings and seals, Powerstop pads and calipers with the TJ getting new JKS springs and factory bump stops.

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Back on the shocks - yes, even after installing the axle to check everything I didn't install the shocks and welded the brackets on backwards. Oops. I torched the old brackets off and welded on a pair of Barnes 4wd curved shock tabs (PN: B4WCSTP). These don’t hang down near as far as the stock units and fixed my issue.

The axle swap and fuel pump install were wrapped up in early November '24 and the Jeep has been chugging along relatively problem free ever since. I do have a P0420 and P0740 code pop up that I need to figure out as the both come back pretty quick after I clear them. I've had 2 instances this summer where the TJ has lost 4th gear, only for it to come right back after it sits overnight both times :homer:.

Total miles on the swap: 8,384
 
I got a text back in April asking if I wanted to come wheeling with a group at Stony Lonesome in Cullman, AL, so of course my response was:

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Our group consisted of a '71 CJ5, an LS swapped twin stick Toyota, a Yamaha Rhino and myself. The goal was to have an easy trail day and hit a few decent rock trails at the end.

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The CJ was purchased by the owner's grandfather in '73 and has been on the family farm ever since, now being used and enjoyed by 4 generations. Pretty darn cool!

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I aired down to 13PSI and followed along. I didn't get too many pics since we didn't stop much but got a few toward the end of the day we hit Bootleg Creek and Rock Creek, 2 pretty decent rock trails at the park. Here is a video of these trails:



Much to my surprise, the Jeep did really well for being open/open on 33s. I only had to pull cable in 1 spot (that I probably could have made with more commitment) and earned a few new dents and scrapes on the bottom, but was really happy with how it went. I did try to put a rock through the transmission pan (was unsuccessful), so that will need to have a skid plate added soon. The rear sway bar also got torn off but it wasn't being used anyway and has since been permanently deleted.

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All being said, great day on the trails with some great folks. Wheeling is rad.
 

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Man, thats crazy the dude in the 'Gator' jeep was running a D30 doing all of that....until he wasnt 😅
 
Well, here’s an update I wasn’t expecting. Turns out the stock lower control arm mounts are just as fragile as the internet says. Thank goodness I was able to safely pull off to the side of the road. The passenger side is cracked too.

-sent from the side of the road.
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Dan_Goodwin said:
Well, here’s an update I wasn’t expecting. Turns out the stock lower control arm mounts are just as fragile as the internet says. Thank goodness I was able to safely pull off to the side of the road. The passenger side is cracked too.

-sent from the side of the road.
IMG_7790.jpeg


IMG_7791.jpeg
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Oh damn. I saw your post when you put that on and the thought crossed my mind :eek:

Glad your event was relatively mild albeit sketch nonetheless. Bet that felt strange
 
barnes4wd.com

Jeep TJ, LJ OEM Rear Lower Control Arm Mounts

Looking for ultimate strength for your 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ or the 2003-2006 Jeep Wrangler LJ rear lower control arm mounts? Look no further our Jeep TJ, LJ OEM Rear Lower Control Arm Mounts have you covered. Manufactured out of ¼” steel making them the strongest rear lower control arms on...
barnes4wd.com

These in your future? $38.
 
I ripped those off in my zj too. I used the ruffstuff mounts but seeing as how their shipping time has went to ****, I would use Barnes or someone else if I needed to do it again.
 
D_JEEPER said:
Oh damn. I saw your post when you put that on and the thought crossed my mind :eek:

Glad your event was relatively mild albeit sketch nonetheless. Bet that felt strange
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Felt extremely weird, mostly from the lack of dampening on that corner.

I thought since this wasn't a race car that the shocks wouldn't be a problem and the innernets were wrong. Jokes on me!
RunningProblem said:
barnes4wd.com

Jeep TJ, LJ OEM Rear Lower Control Arm Mounts

Looking for ultimate strength for your 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ or the 2003-2006 Jeep Wrangler LJ rear lower control arm mounts? Look no further our Jeep TJ, LJ OEM Rear Lower Control Arm Mounts have you covered. Manufactured out of ¼” steel making them the strongest rear lower control arms on...
barnes4wd.com

These in your future? $38.
Click to expand...
I was adding those to my cart while sitting on the side of the road :lmao:
 
Dan_Goodwin said:
Felt extremely weird, mostly from the lack of dampening on that corner.

I thought since this wasn't a race car that the shocks wouldn't be a problem and the innernets were wrong. Jokes on me!

I was adding those to my cart while sitting on the side of the road :lmao:
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Haha "lemme just buy this now while it's fresh on my mind...."
 
Also, while you're welding those on, why not weld those shock brackets on as well vs bolting them?
 
D_JEEPER said:
Also, while you're welding those on, why not weld those shock brackets on as well vs bolting them?
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That's my plan at a minimum. I know that a 1/4": mount that's properly welded shouldn't have an issue taking the extra load from a shock being mounted to it but I'm going to see if there's a way to build a better mouse trap here.
 
Dan_Goodwin said:
That's my plan at a minimum. I know that a 1/4": mount that's properly welded shouldn't have an issue taking the extra load from a shock being mounted to it but I'm going to see if there's a way to build a better mouse trap here.
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Oh yeah for sure on the mount being sturdy.

In my mind, when analyzing the forces, you will have compounding forces on multiple planes, which not only compress and pull, but also twist with the shock mount forces up and down.


Not sure what your geometry constraints are with shock placement, though
 
Does anyone make a 1 piece shock mount/control arm bracket?

Is this any help?
artecindustries.com

TJ 8.8 Swap kit OEM Shock Mounts (Pair)

Shock Mounts for the TJ 8.8 swap kit By request, we're offering the same shock mounts that we use in our popular TJ 8.8 swap kit. This includes both the driver and passenger side shock mounts only in the OEM positions. THIS IS NOT THE WHOLE SWAP KIT. Directly replaces parts TR8801-P and...
artecindustries.com artecindustries.com
 
RunningProblem said:
Does anyone make a 1 piece shock mount/control arm bracket?

Is this any help?
artecindustries.com

TJ 8.8 Swap kit OEM Shock Mounts (Pair)

Shock Mounts for the TJ 8.8 swap kit By request, we're offering the same shock mounts that we use in our popular TJ 8.8 swap kit. This includes both the driver and passenger side shock mounts only in the OEM positions. THIS IS NOT THE WHOLE SWAP KIT. Directly replaces parts TR8801-P and...
artecindustries.com artecindustries.com
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A link / shock bracket does exist:

Axle Link Mount Shock Combo

That bracket is meant to be run parallel to the ground and the stock TJ bracket is clocked at a significant angle, so it wouldn't work in this application. In a perfect world I can land the shock centered on top of the TJ control arm bracket.

I have a wheeling trip planned for mid April but also have a newborn at home, have a contractor wrapping up a renovation at our new house and am trying to get our current house ready to list. Plenty of free time to get this knocked out :homer:
 
Dan_Goodwin Got some questions for ya!

How did you run your Y pipe? Are you using the Dodge manifold? Does your Y pipe go under the oil pan or around it? Any pics?
 
I'm running Durango manifolds and 98% of the stock Durango Y pipe. With the engine sitting where AA recommends the manifolds just barely clear a pinch weld on the firewall but they do fit.

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You can see in this pic that the driveshaft will kiss the Y pipe at full stuff. I haven’t taken the time to see how hard those are fighting for space and since I don’t wheel this super often it hasn’t been a priority.
20260422_025647043_iOS.jpg
 
Good to be able to visualize that. I think that is pushing me to have a shop do a bent pipe around the front of the oil pan sump, I'm running a HP front so it might allow that driveshaft to do more than just kiss the y pipe :laughing:

Thanks!
 
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