Rowdy 96' bronco build

bdkw1 said:
Diff spline count.
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Have you ever seen one break at the splines? I haven't. They always break at the neck down. Dana 35 shafts don't really have a neck down, so I can see them breaking at the splines; in fact, as I mentioned previously I have twisted a few of those at the splines, but they are also only 27 spline.
 
I have broken a TTB dana 44 at the shaft's ears with 235/80r16 street tires and a worn out NA 6.9 idi on a dry dirt hill. :lmao:
 
ntsqd said:
The ProComp 4" TTB spring is the 'secret weapon' coil spring to run on a TTB.
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I wasn't aware of that. What makes them so great? I've read a lot about the Deavers being really good, but not ProComp.
I figured nowadays Desolate or someone like that would have the best springs.
 
Levigarrett76 said:
I have broken a TTB dana 44 at the shaft's ears with 235/80r16 street tires and a worn out NA 6.9 idi on a dry dirt hill. :lmao:
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You likely lost the parts store u joint and when it let go wiped the ears.
 
Spend a bunch of money today on parts.

9in rear truss, pinion guard, and fill/drain plugs from Ruff Stuff.

Speedo relocate from Desolate

35 spline shafts, gears, spool, and setup kit from Quick Performance

Got a new press for the shop. Id forgotten that I'd sold my old HF 12ton to a buddy. Replaced it with a 30 ton air/hydraulic.
 
Wheelin66bronco said:
I wasn't aware of that. What makes them so great? I've read a lot about the Deavers being really good, but not ProComp.
I figured nowadays Desolate or someone like that would have the best springs.
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They're as good as any other common lift coil spring, but they're not priced outrageously and their spring rate is very good for a TTB.
Levigarrett76 said:
Probably spit the c-clips, it was bouncing pretty hard
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If it was the inner U-J that gave up then you bounced until you bound up the ears. It is appalling how little angle it takes to do that, and it is amazing how little metal needs to be removed to fix that problem permanently. You're still dealing with 297's though, and the only strength improvement that I know of is RCV.

I did the 8 lug GM outers conversion, it's documented in my GFB thread. I did it specifically to get the larger COTS front brakes.

No one calls it "Cut and Bend" because some idiot first incorrectly called it a "Cut and Turn" and lemmings...... :flipoff2:
 
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ntsqd said:
No one calls it "Cut and Bend" because some idiot first incorrectly called it a "Cut and Turn" and lemmings...... :flipoff2:
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you are way to hung up on this and says way more about you than it does anyone else FYI.
 
I make no apologies for being anal about some things. Y'all can just deal with it.
 
ntsqd said:
If it was the inner U-J that gave up then you bounced until you bound up the ears. It is appalling how little angle it takes to do that, and it is amazing how little metal needs to be removed to fix that problem permanently. You're still dealing with 297's though, and the only strength improvement that I know of is RCV.
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IMG_3153.JPG
 
ntsqd said:
If it was the inner U-J that gave up then you bounced until you bound up the ears. It is appalling how little angle it takes to do that, and it is amazing how little metal needs to be removed to fix that problem permanently. You're still dealing with 297's though, and the only strength improvement that I know of is RCV.
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A stock leaf spring TTB could only dream of pulling enough travel to bind the center joint :laughing:

Oh, and since you seem pretty dense, let me repeat it again, A Dana 50 TTB passenger inner is pretty much a drop-in upgrade for a Dana 44 TTB...
 
I recalled that part, but had it in my head that it was a spline size only advantage. Sometimes stuff like actually working has to take priority over posting. I was thinking to apologize for my bad info about the U-J's, but **** it. Don't care any more. Y'all want to be assholes then I don't need to be here.
 
ntsqd said:
I recalled that part, but had it in my head that it was a spline size only advantage. Sometimes stuff like actually working has to take priority over posting. I was thinking to apologize for my bad info about the U-J's, but **** it. Don't care any more. Y'all want to be assholes then I don't need to be here.
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Your posts have brought nothing new and only nitpicked and gave bad info. Get the **** over yourself.
 
So the more I read, research, and talk to knowledgeable people, the more I move to the camp of buy once/cry once and go coilovers.
Now, my next question, which I can't find as much info on. Coilovers directly on top of the axle, or in front? Does it affect anything, or just based off of setting travel based on shock length? Desolate and such show tabs on the front. Some others are top mounted. Is it 10" vs 12" shocks?
For a go fast trail runner, general wheeling rig what's the consensus of an internal bypass coilover vs adding a bypass shock later? Seems an internal bypass coilover now would negate the need/want to add a bypass later, or is that even necessary?
I ran 2.5x14 sway away coilovers on my old rock crawler bronco, and could jump it all day long, but never did much "prerunning" to experience shock fade.
Just sitting by the pool rambling.
 
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Wheelin66bronco said:
So the more I read, research, and talk to knowledgeable people, the more I move to the camp of buy once/cry once and go coilovers.
Now, my next question, which I can't find as much info on. Coilovers directly on top of the axle, or in front? Does it affect anything, or just based off of setting travel based on shock length? Desolate and such show tabs on the front. Some others are top mounted. Is it 10" vs 12" shocks?
For a go fast trail runner, general wheeling rig what's the consensus of an internal bypass coilover vs adding a bypass shock later? Seems an internal bypass coilover now would negate the need/want to add a bypass later, or is that even necessary?
I ran 2.5x14 sway away coilovers on my old rock crawler bronco, and could jump it all day long, but never did much "prerunning" to experience shock fade.
Just sitting by the pool rambling.
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Coilovers make packaging much easier for sure. On top or in front of the axle doesn't have any functional difference, it is purely packaging. You want the shock 90° to the beam at full compression.

Most of the aftermarket IBP shocks I have seen are really just a stiff bump zone rather than a true bypass shock, so really more of a bandaid for not running separate air bumps. I would argue bypasses are overkill unless you are really planning on running this thing hard in the desert. I would link the rear before I put separate bypasses with the coilovers in the front.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
Coilovers make packaging much easier for sure. On top or in front of the axle doesn't have any functional difference, it is purely packaging. You want the shock 90° to the beam at full compression.

Most of the aftermarket IBP shocks I have seen are really just a stiff bump zone rather than a true bypass shock, so really more of a bandaid for not running separate air bumps. I would argue bypasses are overkill unless you are really planning on running this thing hard in the desert. I would link the rear before I put separate bypasses with the coilovers in the front.
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Should have included that I'm planning air bumps. Have the set from my last bronco still, just begging to be used.
 
a 12" coil over (fox factory series with a dsc is what i would buy if i was spending your money) and 2.0x4" destroked to 2" of travel air bump will be sufficient.

what are you doing for suspension in the rear?

location of the mount on the beam just boils down to how you layout your engine cage. did you buy an engine cage from threat?
 
mobil1syn said:
a 12" coil over (fox factory series with a dsc is what i would buy if i was spending your money) and 2.0x4" destroked to 2" of travel air bump will be sufficient.

what are you doing for suspension in the rear?

location of the mount on the beam just boils down to how you layout your engine cage. did you buy an engine cage from threat?
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Planning on a good rear spring and bypass shocks. Seems like every big bronco supplier has their own version of rear leaf pack.

I have not bought anything for front coilovers yet.
 
mobil1syn said:
a 12" coil over (fox factory series with a dsc is what i would buy if i was spending your money) and 2.0x4" destroked to 2" of travel air bump will be sufficient.
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Why run a 4" bump with only 2" stroke?
 
Pretty slow progress.
Daughter just got her hardship license, and the 99 TJ she's driving needs a bit of work, so the bronco is on the back burner. Plus nothing that I ordered from Ruff Stuff to build the 9 inch has showed up, even though they told me all my parts were in stock and would ship. Hope they get their **** together under the new ownership. As soon as that stuff shows up, I'll get the rear dialed in.
 
Started working on the front radius arms yesterday.
I'm building Threat WIY high clearance arms. High Ground Clearance Hiemed Radius Arms | Threat Motorsports
My plan is to push the beams forward an inch or more.
The frame side mounts use existing holes in the frame, so obviously thats the starting point.
What I cannot find on any of the mfg's specs is arm length, and I was hoping to build these prior to tearing the front-end out.
Anyone possibly have a bolt center to heim center measurement for these? I know its a long shot.
Also, with no directions on placement, is the center point on the beam for the oem beam bolts the same that is used for the center of these beams with the bracket welded on, or is there a reason to move it at all?
I can't find **** for directions, or simple measurements anywhere.
I'm guessing I'll probably have to end up waiting till the front is torn apart, but its worth a shot.
 
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