Future of KOH 4400 chassis/car development?

8.8 could totally be used as a drop out. Your just going to have dry axles, no different than running tube seals in a 9" case. You'd just need seals in the snout too.


Work great and more gear options vs toyota 8" stuff. The rear ones are LP and come pretty narrow to begin this. This is HP front I run flipped.
IMG_9535.jpeg
 
Work great and more gear options vs toyota 8" stuff. The rear ones are LP and come pretty narrow to begin this. This is HP front I run flipped.
IMG_9535.jpeg
How'd you do the bearings on the long side. I welded the bores up so they could be machined to size.

Edit, why the flip? You could have just done an exploder diff at that point.
 
Work great and more gear options vs toyota 8" stuff. The rear ones are LP and come pretty narrow to begin this. This is HP front I run flipped.
IMG_9535.jpeg

That's rad. Happen to have a ballpark weight on it? Looks nice and light

What’s the vehicle that came out of?

Looks like it might be early 2000's expedition and F150 front pumpkin shortened, but would need confirmation

Pardon Our Interruption...

s-l1600.webp
 
That's rad. Happen to have a ballpark weight on it? Looks nice and light



Looks like it might be early 2000's expedition and F150 front pumpkin shortened, but would need confirmation

Pardon Our Interruption...

s-l1600.webp
Yes, I use early 2000's f150 ones. I think the expedition one has different mounts. I run a 31 spline arb.

I can weigh my spare one but it'll be a month or 2 before I am back there. It's about the same as a toyota 3rd.
 
How'd you do the bearings on the long side. I welded the bores up so they could be machined to size.

Edit, why the flip? You could have just done an exploder diff at that point.
2 gear portals

Original builder of the buggy did the centre section, I just took a spare/donor to my machinist friend and he made it work. I think they added material then machined out like you mentioned. It's retained by a c-clip inside.

not sure if its ok to link to the old site but pics are still there if you search "75Fab JV Asssassin IFS Chassis"
 
One of the CRITICAL decisions is the CV flange to flange dimension. Too wide and it can throw out the best candidates. Too wide means that the A arm is short and limits travel. Most of us know that the inside arm pivot line...top to bottom...must intersect the CV center. I don't know a way around that. And the first set to eliminate plunge.

The original IRS flatty had a 49 Mercury model 44 narrowed. (1965) and the center to center u-joints were about 21". The narrowed 9" flange to flange is about 12.75" or so. The corvette 44 was in the range of 17", center to center. I have a cheat sheet somewhere. Moser can make stubs as well as Summit in Draper,Utah.

I have a few cases in different readiness for a center. It is really easy to weld brackets and etc to the alum centers. preheating and a full 250-300 amps gets the job done. Don't be afraid. This thread has got me to thinking better mounting options. I was more concerned about dimensions and geometry when I did the lower bulkhead set-up. Mounting was getting sketchy and why I set that part aside...Glad I did now. I'll throw up some centers from over the years.
 

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Many can comment on all of these.
 

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I don't see the 8.8 in this file. A ton of people have contributed ideas over the years. Damien Mavs on the other site helped me to initially draw down on what to look for. Solid stuff that is pretty common info today.
 

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I don't see the 8.8 in this file. A ton of people have contributed ideas over the years. Damien Mavs on the other site helped me to initially draw down on what to look for. Solid stuff that is pretty common info today.
Pretty good collection of stuff. I can think of a couple more candidates I don’t see represented.

Dutchman machine 9” case and shafts. Arguably the best priced way to get into an IFS 9”.

IMG_9171.jpeg


The H1 diff is nice and narrow too. AMC 20 gears and lockers.

IMG_9172.jpeg
 
In my case for the Eagle, the diff won't be centered, so an intermediate shaft of some sort to keep the outer shafts equal is fine. I don't plan on it having a ton of travel, just enough for rally car stuff that sees occasional rocks. I was thinking a steel housing just for ease of welding it into the crossmember and front structure, but I guess if clearance allows a suspended aluminum 3rd like that 8.8 might work. For the LNF specifically I think the driveshaft is gonna want to go right where the A/C compressor is so I'll have to check some stuff there.
 
In my case for the Eagle, the diff won't be centered, so an intermediate shaft of some sort to keep the outer shafts equal is fine. I don't plan on it having a ton of travel, just enough for rally car stuff that sees occasional rocks. I was thinking a steel housing just for ease of welding it into the crossmember and front structure, but I guess if clearance allows a suspended aluminum 3rd like that 8.8 might work. For the LNF specifically I think the driveshaft is gonna want to go right where the A/C compressor is so I'll have to check some stuff there.

scab a tacoma front end onto that thing.
 
Pretty good collection of stuff. I can think of a couple more candidates I don’t see represented.

Dutchman machine 9” case and shafts. Arguably the best priced way to get into an IFS 9”.

IMG_9171.jpeg


The H1 diff is nice and narrow too. AMC 20 gears and lockers.


That Dutchman diff is wide, iirc 14-3/4"-ish.
 
That Dutchman diff is wide, iirc 14-3/4"-ish.
"BAck in the day," Dimensions like that were a show stopper for articulation and a reasonable outside width under 90". It became obvious that we needed an offroad wheel with 5-6" backspace for a reasonable halfshaft and angles. It took a lot of convincing to get a couple sets of wheels that came in at 5.5" backspace. (12" sand wheel and 8" trail wheel...17") we couldn't finalize anything until we physically had the sets in hand as the forgings were trial and error. (Raceline Greg USA) Now common on Baja buggies.

That also gave us the time to get the narrowed 9" as only one had been billet produced before. (Summit Machine). Now they are common among several suppliers.

There was also the question whether to use 935 CV's or series 30 CVs on the half shafts. Baja buggies at the time (800hp) were running 935 series and dealing with heat. At that same time Letsroll Andrew was using 935's in his KOH IFS with success. (37-39" tires). This allowed confidence in 935's and a series 30 in the upright for 42' rock turning at 14" travel. Today Baja Buggies are all using series 30 CV's with HP over 1 -1.5 thousand HP. And tall tires.

So how about today with 42" tall tires? we are at another critical threshold with the stronger Straight Axles sneaking in for another win...with 40's, I believe. Portals are pushing the cars wider or the half shafts shorter. I think all CV's are series 30 today to "be competitive." Decisions and compromises.

Most of us on this thread are well schooled but those newish need to know what to put on the list of needs and why. Time to play close attention to the new AWD Trophy trucks for tech in new builds. I don't see Jason returning before a clear path to reliability is found. It is tough enough to just figure out the course challenges.

(RV has Rockwell axles and you don't want to constantly buy those hubs. ) They have been engaged several times in the sand. Once in the rocks... in 35 years... and less than 100 yards at a time. ) Gotta get back in the shop.
 
3 things
  • that thing is super tall
  • no way im getting a unicorn diff from a different county

I assume it takes standard bearings and seals, as well as standard gear sets, so the only issue would be if you break the custom spool or housing. They have a Dana 60 and Dana 44 version that are obviously smaller, but you need the Dana 80 version if you want to run 30 series CVs.
 
Ya know what kind of engineering tom foolery I'd like to see?

Portals on a TTB.
Not really necessary. What the TTB lacks is uptravel because there's a frame right there.

If you just wanted a stock rig with a ****ton of ground clearance it'd be cool though.
Would the extra leverage raise hell with geometry? I would assume so.
No it wouldnn't. Draw straight line from spindle to beam pivot (both front and rear). That's you're effective beam. Ain't no different than an S-bent drag link.
 
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