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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
MoparMoe
Hackmaster General
Lookin good.
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #93
Decided I wanted to see if I could get 90% of the front end buttoned up before the new year. Id painted everything in the fall then squirreled it away, so brought the core support down. Stuck that on. Mounted my radiator brackets, etc etc.
This core support was THRASHED, and I did the best I could to strighten it. Then added on tabs for my radiatoe, hood pins, etc.
Mind you....Im still learning to weld, so a lot of this is an experiment with "how not to blow holes in thin metal"
Prepare yourself for self tappers!......I knew I could weld it without going in too deep...so decided to use some self tappers from my friends VersaTube shelter to hold the ****er together.
Threw some bolts in there too, as the bracket on the far side which was spot welded seemed like it wanted to leave the chat.
Lower radiator support on, using stock mounting holes
Radiator in!
This core support was THRASHED, and I did the best I could to strighten it. Then added on tabs for my radiatoe, hood pins, etc.
Mind you....Im still learning to weld, so a lot of this is an experiment with "how not to blow holes in thin metal"
Prepare yourself for self tappers!......I knew I could weld it without going in too deep...so decided to use some self tappers from my friends VersaTube shelter to hold the ****er together.
Threw some bolts in there too, as the bracket on the far side which was spot welded seemed like it wanted to leave the chat.
Lower radiator support on, using stock mounting holes
Radiator in!
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Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #94
Next came finishing up my engine cage supports, mounting the reservoirs, along with power steering lines and taking measurements/ordering brake line parts.
In the middle of all this did a CV and wheel bearing on my faithful outback...at it was snowing...outside. Damn truck has the garage locked down.
Moked up the braces and the reservoir mount locations. Booger welded them and then coated them in trusty semi-gloss black. Took small-fry to the hardware store to get some bolts, modified the o-ring fittings on the coilover resevoirs and whammo. Mounted with zip ties....I didnt have hose clamps.
Power steering lines in. Not planning to run a ram currently, just the standard box. Have the ports on the box....but not going to use them right now.
All in all pretty happy how this is coming out.
For reference that is a 3' thick radiator with I think its 1.5 tubes....so fairly large. Im praying to god thatit does enough to cool this LS.
Will be adding a shroud and electric fans (have a mechanical but the engine sits so low the fan is basically below the radiator
Theoretically it should be able to run soon. I do need to finish welding the gas tank straps/mounts. Maybe thatll be this week. Sure hope I built this engine right.....
In the middle of all this did a CV and wheel bearing on my faithful outback...at it was snowing...outside. Damn truck has the garage locked down.
Moked up the braces and the reservoir mount locations. Booger welded them and then coated them in trusty semi-gloss black. Took small-fry to the hardware store to get some bolts, modified the o-ring fittings on the coilover resevoirs and whammo. Mounted with zip ties....I didnt have hose clamps.
Power steering lines in. Not planning to run a ram currently, just the standard box. Have the ports on the box....but not going to use them right now.
All in all pretty happy how this is coming out.
For reference that is a 3' thick radiator with I think its 1.5 tubes....so fairly large. Im praying to god thatit does enough to cool this LS.
Will be adding a shroud and electric fans (have a mechanical but the engine sits so low the fan is basically below the radiator
Theoretically it should be able to run soon. I do need to finish welding the gas tank straps/mounts. Maybe thatll be this week. Sure hope I built this engine right.....
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MoparMoe
Hackmaster General
...SO THATS WHERE THE SCREWS WENT...
rattle_snake
****wits
I was trying to figure out all the screws then realized you started with a 'scratch and dent' core support. Mine was all ****ed up to start, how 50 yr old **** goes.
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #98
Oh yeah. Its the original core support, but the truck being in a big front end collision (what took it off the road in 1996), left the thing pretty haggard. I wanted a new core support but they are pricy to ship, and here on the east coast they are rusty as heckkkk....so bent and only mildly rusty seemed to win. Insert some ghetto-fab hackjob work (self tappers) and shes good to go. Call it an attempt to not take this truck too seriously and have fun with it
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #99
Had to do some maintenance on the Outback. Alignment was never correct, and things have always been a tad wonky. Did a front CV and wheel bearing. Did rear adjustable control arms, and threw in a new driveshaft. Rides like a dream now.
And installed a used hitch on it a few weeks back to tow a boat home in a snowstorm on a newly purchased used trailer......at night.
Decided to start doing grounds in an attempt to get the front together before the new year.
Engine to frame:
Body to frame:
Core support to...you guessed it...frame!
Got my feed and return sorted out. Got the correct sized o-ring to -an fitting in the pump.
Steering in and tight. Suspension bolts tight. etc etc
Started on brake lines:
Bought nickel copper, got sent copper. Decided to make everything out of the copper and then use them as templates for the final go around.
-Fronts will got o a T, then to each frame rail, mount to -an, then braided down to the caliper.
-Rear will go into cab, to a Jamar unit (JPK1 - Park-Lok Use On Manual Brakes only.), then back to the rear of the truck. My Fummins doesnt have a parking brake and I wanted to at least have one in this thing, so the jamar seemed like the best fit.
Not all the welds are internet approved.....kiss my ass
And installed a used hitch on it a few weeks back to tow a boat home in a snowstorm on a newly purchased used trailer......at night.
Decided to start doing grounds in an attempt to get the front together before the new year.
Engine to frame:
Body to frame:
Core support to...you guessed it...frame!
Got my feed and return sorted out. Got the correct sized o-ring to -an fitting in the pump.
Steering in and tight. Suspension bolts tight. etc etc
Started on brake lines:
Bought nickel copper, got sent copper. Decided to make everything out of the copper and then use them as templates for the final go around.
-Fronts will got o a T, then to each frame rail, mount to -an, then braided down to the caliper.
-Rear will go into cab, to a Jamar unit (JPK1 - Park-Lok Use On Manual Brakes only.), then back to the rear of the truck. My Fummins doesnt have a parking brake and I wanted to at least have one in this thing, so the jamar seemed like the best fit.
Not all the welds are internet approved.....kiss my ass
Attachments
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Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #100
Clutch line in.
Starting to dress the front up. Biggest thing was the front end collision which is what ultimately killed the truck in 1996....so getting all this **** (body panels) to fit back together has been a juggling act. Ignore the fact I vut every piece of stock metal from the frame rails...and chopped the frame rails off.
Clearances looking good:
Battery has rusted through the innder fender, so I cut it out and was planning to rivet a license plate there. In the end Im looking ot mount my battery off the side of the frame or in the bed, and use two UMP filters, one on each side of the radiator.
This thing was MANGLED. Unlucky for it through, me and an adjustable wrench bent the mounting locations back into place and bingo bango shes on
Hood mounted and fenders set on. Plan is to rough up the hood with some scotch-brite, and spray bomb it maroon come summer.
Up next is finishing up the rear tank mounts. I have some rolls of rubber that will sit between the tank and the straps.
Will need to figure out the fill tube....
Most jokers use top fill tanks, which I cant understand as I do actually put stuff in my truck bed. While this truck is going to have a bed cage....I dont have it in my to have a top fill tank as I want to use the bed for camping stuff and not have to worry about "leaving space to fill my tank with gas". Gas fill=later problem
The thinking with the straps was to make it so I have options if I ever need to modify anything, be it bed cage or gas tank. I wanted to be able to remove the rear cross member, and best I came up with is what you see:
-I can drop the tank out the bottom by removing the bottom straps.
-I can also remove the rear crossmember and with it comes the top straps.
-Planning to reuse the stock rear bumper so that rear crossmember is located in a place so that I still have access to the bumper bolt holes/nuts.
Starting to dress the front up. Biggest thing was the front end collision which is what ultimately killed the truck in 1996....so getting all this **** (body panels) to fit back together has been a juggling act. Ignore the fact I vut every piece of stock metal from the frame rails...and chopped the frame rails off.
Clearances looking good:
Battery has rusted through the innder fender, so I cut it out and was planning to rivet a license plate there. In the end Im looking ot mount my battery off the side of the frame or in the bed, and use two UMP filters, one on each side of the radiator.
This thing was MANGLED. Unlucky for it through, me and an adjustable wrench bent the mounting locations back into place and bingo bango shes on
Hood mounted and fenders set on. Plan is to rough up the hood with some scotch-brite, and spray bomb it maroon come summer.
Up next is finishing up the rear tank mounts. I have some rolls of rubber that will sit between the tank and the straps.
Will need to figure out the fill tube....
Most jokers use top fill tanks, which I cant understand as I do actually put stuff in my truck bed. While this truck is going to have a bed cage....I dont have it in my to have a top fill tank as I want to use the bed for camping stuff and not have to worry about "leaving space to fill my tank with gas". Gas fill=later problem
The thinking with the straps was to make it so I have options if I ever need to modify anything, be it bed cage or gas tank. I wanted to be able to remove the rear cross member, and best I came up with is what you see:
-I can drop the tank out the bottom by removing the bottom straps.
-I can also remove the rear crossmember and with it comes the top straps.
-Planning to reuse the stock rear bumper so that rear crossmember is located in a place so that I still have access to the bumper bolt holes/nuts.
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Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #101
Here is a reoccurring issue id love some input on:
Welder keeps burning up the wire directly off the feed wheel. Itll melt as seen and melt at the gun tip. Then comes snipping it at the gun. Snipping it at the feed. Pulling it through. Re-feeding. All wasted time and takes you out of the rhythm when your twisted like a pretzel doing welders yoga.
New liner as of last year. I redid/cleaned up the ground wire. Open to ideas.
Back to the truck:
One more of the rear cross member and straps.
Still awaiting my rear axle.....itll come one day. Maybe it got shipped to Doug
Figured with my free time id finish drilling and knocking out rivets.
Electrical:
-The drivers side lighting harness was snipped for its connectors sometime in the last....20 years. So I went to my wiring parts bin and made some new connectors. Put in some "Octane" brand LED lights....as Holley Retrobright are INSANELY expensive. Someone recommended them to me and when pricing them out I think i actually had a brain aneurism.
-There wasnt a horn on the truck when I got it. Id had a Hella, new in box, in my toolbox back from my Subaru days. Figured that the truck needs a horn and the pig tails were hanging out.....so I mounted the Hella, extended the pigtails, and boom. Have a sick dope horn.
The cryptid wanted to help me sit and think about the bed cage and link setup......she bored into my soul and didnt focus enough on the truck side of things. Turns out she doesnt know geometry yet......Work in progress.
Welder keeps burning up the wire directly off the feed wheel. Itll melt as seen and melt at the gun tip. Then comes snipping it at the gun. Snipping it at the feed. Pulling it through. Re-feeding. All wasted time and takes you out of the rhythm when your twisted like a pretzel doing welders yoga.
New liner as of last year. I redid/cleaned up the ground wire. Open to ideas.
Back to the truck:
One more of the rear cross member and straps.
Still awaiting my rear axle.....itll come one day. Maybe it got shipped to Doug
Figured with my free time id finish drilling and knocking out rivets.
Electrical:
-The drivers side lighting harness was snipped for its connectors sometime in the last....20 years. So I went to my wiring parts bin and made some new connectors. Put in some "Octane" brand LED lights....as Holley Retrobright are INSANELY expensive. Someone recommended them to me and when pricing them out I think i actually had a brain aneurism.
-There wasnt a horn on the truck when I got it. Id had a Hella, new in box, in my toolbox back from my Subaru days. Figured that the truck needs a horn and the pig tails were hanging out.....so I mounted the Hella, extended the pigtails, and boom. Have a sick dope horn.
The cryptid wanted to help me sit and think about the bed cage and link setup......she bored into my soul and didnt focus enough on the truck side of things. Turns out she doesnt know geometry yet......Work in progress.
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Gumbybronco
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2022
- Member Number
- 4666
- Messages
- 745
A couple of ideas here on the welder:
Progress looks good.
Wire arcing at wire feed rollers!!!
Hi everyone I have a Cebora Mig Star 450 mig machine running off 3 phase supply. My problem is that when i start to weld after a short weld the wire arcs at the wire feed rollers. This causes the wire to either, kink and twist back on itself or cut and continue to feed down down the liner of...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
Progress looks good.
rattle_snake
****wits
Lots of good work in on the truck.
For the battery, relocating has its advantages and disadvantages. Keeping it under the hood with shortest wiring simplifies things, minimal cost and weight. Maybe you can mount to the engine cage.
On my F100 I moved to bed then back underhood to make everything more complicated and expensive.
For the battery, relocating has its advantages and disadvantages. Keeping it under the hood with shortest wiring simplifies things, minimal cost and weight. Maybe you can mount to the engine cage.
On my F100 I moved to bed then back underhood to make everything more complicated and expensive.
you going full tube and hanging glass or keeping the bed functional
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #105
Need to see where the tires fall when I get the rear axle in. Ideally id like to use the stock bed, but i think given uptravel, the tires will mash the bedsides with anything more than a speedbump.
Pulling the bedsides would be my go-to fix...but the way these beds are built make it next to impossible to flare them much.
All in all, time will tell...but looking to stay stock body as long as possible
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #106
Im looking to do a two into to one, air filter into throttle body, utilizing UMP filters (already have one)....and they will be placed where where the batteries usually go (behind headlights).
Ideally id love to stick the battery in the stock location....but I feel its easier to move than say two air filters and intake tubing. And I did actually take a gander back at your F100 to see how you did the bed mount. All in all I think this will be one of those "game time decisions" once I get more pieces into place!
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #107
Spent some time working on the interior. Don't have big plans for music and am not as talented as RatteSnake....but Im trying
Speaker front
Speaker Rear:
Headunit wiring for reference
How I plan to wire:
Speaker mounted (bottom):
This process suckkkked. I drew up a plate for send cut send and they did their job fine....but every aspect of the head-unit install sucked ass. Didnt enjoy it, unlike other parts of building a truck.
Admittedly the taper of the stock radio bezel was a bitch to cut precisely. I took my time...most of the time. And while its not perfect, its what I ended up with. So...theres that.
Chose a Magnadyne radio for background color and simplicity. No clue how loud itll be, but my plans for the stereo include....one speaker and maybe a sub behind the seat (down the road). For now, I just want a radio I can turn on, and the ability to connect it to my phone (via cable cause Im a boomer in a millenials body).
Speaker mounted (top side):
Full combo:
Speaker front
Speaker Rear:
Headunit wiring for reference
How I plan to wire:
Speaker mounted (bottom):
This process suckkkked. I drew up a plate for send cut send and they did their job fine....but every aspect of the head-unit install sucked ass. Didnt enjoy it, unlike other parts of building a truck.
Admittedly the taper of the stock radio bezel was a bitch to cut precisely. I took my time...most of the time. And while its not perfect, its what I ended up with. So...theres that.
Chose a Magnadyne radio for background color and simplicity. No clue how loud itll be, but my plans for the stereo include....one speaker and maybe a sub behind the seat (down the road). For now, I just want a radio I can turn on, and the ability to connect it to my phone (via cable cause Im a boomer in a millenials body).
Speaker mounted (top side):
Full combo:
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Provience
Kill!
That's probably better than the dual 3-1/2 speakers I mounted in the same spot in my 1980. It certainly works enough for whats expected if it 
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #109
Hell yeah. It was definitely one of those scenarios where I was thinking “what’s the best bang for my buck?”…..just want to be able to jam out if I so desire, so was hoping that dash spot would work. Given your experience I’m hopefulThat's probably better than the dual 3-1/2 speakers I mounted in the same spot in my 1980. It certainly works enough for whats expected if it
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rattle_snake
****wits
just as talented and your work shows it.
You want a bed cage, but are you willing to give up a functional bed? Or something in between?
You want a bed cage, but are you willing to give up a functional bed? Or something in between?
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #111
Im going to try and build something very similar to this. I already know my rear axle housing will blow up through the bed, and Im HOPING I don't have to notch the frame. But only time (when I get the rear axle) will tell.
All in all looking to do a bedcage that still lets me put stuff in the bed without too much issue.
Plan is to tie the front radius arm mounts and the rear link mounts together, under the cab, so I dont just bend the truck like a banana on my first drive (see last pic).
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Projectjunkie
Whatever
It'd suck to do all that suspension work, then not put the battery behind the right rear tire
Old guys have stashes of welding leads, they make good battery cables
Or go to a smaller shadier scrap yard where you can talk to the owner who'll sell you some
Old guys have stashes of welding leads, they make good battery cables
Or go to a smaller shadier scrap yard where you can talk to the owner who'll sell you some
why do you say that?
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #114
A gentleman names Sandy Cone bult the front hubs for me, and when speaking with him we chatted about my truck, track width, antique outboards...alll the usual...and he said that he had a housing in the back that someone had paid a deposit for then changed their mind about. He offered to help me with my project and build me a rear-end. Kicker being that the upper link mounts were welded on and lowers werent....so I get what I get for the tops, and the bottoms I had him put where I needed them. Tops are HIGH (see pics).....so Im expecting massive issue with my bed floor
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rattle_snake
****wits
Upper housing welds and fab look great but I would still cut it off...
Projectjunkie
Whatever
Raise the bed floor where you need to, but sink the battery and spare tire(s) and fuel tank where you can
Projectjunkie
Whatever
Random picture of 4wd chevy pre runner I came across in a parking lot, ttb d50 front, rear winch, lots of weight far back, storage for totes and stuff, the tire rack lifts up, had a lot of cool ideas going on
Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #119
No pics, but got the wiring from the stereo to the speaker attached, havent done power wiring for it yet.
Also got the Holley wiring ran through the firewall and got the weird two piece aluminum gromet ("firewall passthrough") in. Wasnt my first choice but I couldnt find a rubber one that suited my desires.
After seeing Projectjunkie s pic, I pulled out a battery box and decided to do some mock up and put some thought into the battery location. Under the hood is out of the question due to air filters, so I was aiming for under the bed (I know I know, itll be a pain if I have to jump it, etc etc). Turns out the box will fit in the location shown; itll clear the bed floor, the bed side and the stock power wiring hardness from the Holley JUSSSST reaches it.
Its a little higher than the bottom of the gas tank which is good.
My loose plan will be to bolt on with two bolts and run a few beads around the perimeter.
Also got the Holley wiring ran through the firewall and got the weird two piece aluminum gromet ("firewall passthrough") in. Wasnt my first choice but I couldnt find a rubber one that suited my desires.
After seeing Projectjunkie s pic, I pulled out a battery box and decided to do some mock up and put some thought into the battery location. Under the hood is out of the question due to air filters, so I was aiming for under the bed (I know I know, itll be a pain if I have to jump it, etc etc). Turns out the box will fit in the location shown; itll clear the bed floor, the bed side and the stock power wiring hardness from the Holley JUSSSST reaches it.
Its a little higher than the bottom of the gas tank which is good.
My loose plan will be to bolt on with two bolts and run a few beads around the perimeter.
Attachments
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Burns
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #120
Even if it’s small, it does feel good to get stuff checked off the list. Interior is coming together.
Made a small mount out of aluminum strip. Heated it up, bend it, blew some holes in it and riveted the Holley mount to it. Need to grab a bag of hose clamps to stick it onto the column, but it’s set in place in the pics. Also painted the shifter rod black.
Wires for the Holley are all through the firewall. That green guy is the power for my fuel pump, which needs to be run across the cab and down the drivers frame rail.
Cut a hole in the back left of the glove box. Yanked everything though, and miraculously it all fits. Nothings final, but I’m curious how it does with heat and if I’ll need to cut more holes or increase airflow to the glovebox.
Got in another bag of fender bolts, so I finished attaching the core support to the inner fenders
Also swapped out some of the bolt/washer combos I had for the fender bolts (I love the tick washers…even if the color is a bit gaudy).
Need to find another, but here is mockup of the airfilter. Planning to run two, in the locations shown, and build a W shaped intake to the throttle body.
I tried to turn them 90* but it was a no go. As shows is the only way they fit.
This was my major dictator for locating the battery elsewhere/in the rear.
Annnnd gotta make her pretty. Went back and forth on mirrors. Wanted to do the standard style convex circles with round bar around them….but I got lazy. Each door has more holes in them than Bonnie and Clyde, so drivers side bolted right up, but passenger needed me to blow two more holes and install riv-nuts.
Honestly, I kind of like the fact it’s looking a little more truck like and less “I hacked this together in my garage”. Maine state police will probably have things to say….but we’ll deal with that when it comes. They don’t bug me about my Fummins, so hoping this one slips by too.
Made a small mount out of aluminum strip. Heated it up, bend it, blew some holes in it and riveted the Holley mount to it. Need to grab a bag of hose clamps to stick it onto the column, but it’s set in place in the pics. Also painted the shifter rod black.
Wires for the Holley are all through the firewall. That green guy is the power for my fuel pump, which needs to be run across the cab and down the drivers frame rail.
Cut a hole in the back left of the glove box. Yanked everything though, and miraculously it all fits. Nothings final, but I’m curious how it does with heat and if I’ll need to cut more holes or increase airflow to the glovebox.
Got in another bag of fender bolts, so I finished attaching the core support to the inner fenders
Also swapped out some of the bolt/washer combos I had for the fender bolts (I love the tick washers…even if the color is a bit gaudy).
Need to find another, but here is mockup of the airfilter. Planning to run two, in the locations shown, and build a W shaped intake to the throttle body.
I tried to turn them 90* but it was a no go. As shows is the only way they fit.
This was my major dictator for locating the battery elsewhere/in the rear.
Annnnd gotta make her pretty. Went back and forth on mirrors. Wanted to do the standard style convex circles with round bar around them….but I got lazy. Each door has more holes in them than Bonnie and Clyde, so drivers side bolted right up, but passenger needed me to blow two more holes and install riv-nuts.
Honestly, I kind of like the fact it’s looking a little more truck like and less “I hacked this together in my garage”. Maine state police will probably have things to say….but we’ll deal with that when it comes. They don’t bug me about my Fummins, so hoping this one slips by too.