Build Lipstick on a PigQuea (A basic trailer rehab)

djljeep

Well-known member
Joined
May 27, 2020
Messages
229
Loc
Western Maine
This will be overly detailed, mostly because I just went through 11 years of phone pictures. Prepare yourself for unnecessary backstory.

So I have a Pequea MP18 light equipment trailer I bought in 2014. I have no idea what year it is at the moment looking at pictures, but it was used and had been modified and re-painted atleast once when I bought it. Originally it would have been a 18 foot deck, no beaver tail, with 5200 lb axles (GVWR of 9999lb). The guy I bought it from (for like $3k) had added a 3 foot beaver tail to the trailer so they could fit (2) SxS on it by cutting the rear beam off the trailer, adding 3' of channel and 2 cross members in-between and re-welding the rear beam back on for 21' of deck total. They also modified the original ramps by cutting them down and tossing the feet. It scaled around ~1500 lbs, so really pretty light for what it is.

Pictures of when I bought it in 2014:
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This was my second purchase after graduating Engineering School (after my CJ5) and actually before I had a truck to pull it with (I always bummed my dad's or my roommates, but all of my fathers trailers at the time were just too crappy or heavy for moving a Jeep regularly). So naturally the first thing I did was experiment with what fits on a 21' trailer.
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Now the way the PO extended the trailer always had some problems. To start with, it just wasn't super rugged, and would deflect a lot. He literally butt welded the channel frames, added a small fish plate on the outside and called it good. Loading my CJ5 this is a non-issue, but I became interested in seeing if I could fit two Jeeps on it, and well it deflected so hard that the rear beam was only a couple inches from the ground. Needless to say I never actually did this, but that bug never left my brain. I'll circle back to that.

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The other issue with the way it was lengthened was that in upset the natural balance of the trailer and made it very light on the tongue. When empty I could lift it off a truck by hand, and with the YJ & TJ on it in the picture above, I could lift the tongue with 2 fingers, which was more evidence that wasn't going to work.

Ultimately I used the trailer for 10 years, moving my CJ5, Moving my fathers Kubota around when I was building my house, and eventually all the other crap I've collected. I learned just load it a little heavier on the tongue than a normal car hauler, and It actually works really well with the 30 HP Kubota with a hoe (other than deflection when loading).

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At some point I added a quick Receiver hitch mount for a winch to drag more **** home.
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And then we have the issues that led to the current project.
-The deck boards were dry rotting and the self tappers were starting to pop. This was made worse because when the PO extended the trailer, He didn't add an Angle iron across the back of the flat deck like beaver tail trailers have to capture the boards.
-Growing concerns about the deflection in the Beaver tail when moving my WJ or the Wife's wheeling XJ. On those the only choice I really had for rear tie downs was wrapping the bar the ramps pivot on with my chain extension ratchets. There are no stake pockets or D-Rings far enough back and adding them wouldn't really solve anything - the angles aren't really right to pull to the outside of the trailer and I'm not willing to put D-rings in a places where it would fetch up something being drug onto the trailer.
-The above issue was made worse by the rear beam starting to twist because of the leverage the ratchets had on it when hauling the WJ or XJ.
-The wiring was starting to get pinched in places and the puppy kept ripping out the repairs.
-The fenders were failing. They had broken their welds 2 or 3 times and I just fixed them, but at some point they rotted through completely - Like literally crumbling if I stood on them and started to fall off.
-I've always run kenda bias 225/75D15s on this and they don't wear right. would like to go to Radial Es and I suspect the bushings in the suspension need replacement.
-The whole thing was getting rusty. I use this thing a lot in the winter for snow wheeling and when I was building my house I moved the tractor every couple of weeks it seemed like. More evidence below:

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Literally plowed my way into Rocky Mountain Terrain Park with the trailer in tow from the Weld side after a snow storm because we had ill equipped tow rigs with us.


Originally I told myself I would trade the trailer and get a new shiny one. After all I've had it ten years and I paid like $3k for it then, and a new 20 foot 14k wood deck fold up ramp Rice trailer is like $5400 at the dealer in town here I think. The only thing I don't like about the new ones is that they are power coated (and I much rather have a painted one).
But one thing led to another and between a new job and a series of deals I couldn't say no to, I just can't stomach paying another 5k for a trailer, and the condition of mine had reached a point where the trade value was gone. I had considered a quick repaint/redeck/new fenders and sell it, but the math wasn't mathing and I quickly found out that there was nothing quick about prepping this thing for paint.
Also of note, One of the deals mentioned above was for a 33' big tex goose trailer, so the need to haul two rigs is gone for this trailer. For that matter, its days of moving the trailer are probably done too. And one of the other deals was this ****ing thing, which needs a deckover trailer to move period.
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Goose Trailer
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So I really can't justify the new trailer, even going with a smaller one. And if I'm gonna buy a used one, I kind of rather have the nightmare I know. I also refuse to own a trailer with the ramps that slide in the back. I think those things are the worst possible ramp setup for a trailer like these.

So the plan for the Pequea became:
-strip the deck
-strip the paint/rust or sand blast
-reinforce the beaver tail
-integrate new tie down points on the back
-reinforce the winch mount
-replace the clearance light mounts that had been wrecked
-repaint
-total re-wire
-New Deck
-New Tires

and basically fiscal logic has left the conversation and I'm building it the way I want it to work. If I don't like it I have a buddy up the road who had borrowed it in the past who has been trying to claim first dibs anyway.
 
So something came over me in June and I ripped it apart and started ordering stuff. Ripped the Deck off and realized really fast that this this is really crusty and had a ton of failed coatings and flaking metal on it.
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I experimented with a couple of things and found they all sucked. I tried Wire Wheel, flap wheels, and the needle gun at first.
Called a dude about sand blasting (cause I liked the idea of getting it to bare metal and an epoxy primer), but he quoted me like 2-2.5k and I said **** that. More research revealed I wasn't going to do better than that.

Got into my bust time of year and wasn't able to spend more than an afternoon here or there trying various things to clean it up. Tried pressure washing it, which with a 0 degree tip took a bunch off, but obviously not everything. Bought one of those cheap amazon pressure washer sand blaster kits, and it definitely works, but not well enough for this, and my pressure washer is on the low end of what that thing works for. Then I found just smashing all the flaky **** with a hammer took a lot off. Then in a burst of genius I grabbed my friends tractor and rolled it against a tree in the yard so I could get to it with a wire wheel easier. And there it sat in my yard like that for 1.5 months.
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I eventually dedicated some time to it and got it cleaned up, but it sucked, and I accepted that I wasn't going to get it truly clean with a wire wheel. Getting it back on the wheels was more complicated than it needed to be.
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Ultimately I ended up going over the whole thing with the needle gun, which sucked, but its what I should have started with.
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So from June until now I have bumming my friends tilt deck trailer every month to go wheeling. And I got to tell you, that had me second guessing all choice to this point, because its a nice trailer to use.

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Last weekend I finally finished the last of the grinding it needed and I moved onto the beaver tail. What I decided to do was run C4x5.4 channel up the beaver tail, and up a few crossmembers to tie it all together. I also had same friend as the tilt deck and tractor cut me these templates on his plasma table so I could cut in keyholes for tie down points. These keyholes are based on another friends ramp truck that he fabricated and works with 5/16 or 3/8 chain, as well as fits a 5/16 or 3/8 binder hook.
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3/8 grab hook (cut into scrap metal for testing)
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5/16 chain
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5/16 hook
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Now I don't plan to use these to secure huge loads with, but I think it'll work well for what it needs to do. I'm a little concerned the grab hooks could tear out, but most of the time these will be used with my chain adapted ratchet straps, and only when I'm moving something long. I just wanted the grab hook provision incase I move something with sharp edges that needs to use chain.

Channel cut
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and test fitted on the beaver.
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The channel is 1.5" tall so it matches the 2x perfectly, and the way its tucked into/under the rear beam, I think it eliminates the twisting issue I had before, even if the keyholes don't work out and I have to weld in D-rings.

I asked at work if they had any small drops of 1/4 plate and the foreman told me he didn't have any, but that the 5/16 was fair game... so...
Slightly overkill gussets.
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The big awkward ones are for reinforcing the channel at the angle change at the beaver, and go crossmember to crossmember.
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Got all of that welded up over the past 3 weekend days despite running out of gas, and then wire.
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And tonight added an angle to capture the end of the long boards to fix that problem. You can also see most of the gussets I added. It is way less twisty now, (and I jackstanded it to make sure it was level before I did all of this). I'm almost worried I might have made it too stiff and will be moving the stress to other places to concentrate, but again, anything stupid heavy will get moved on the big trailer now.

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Was working on the new fenders when I decided the neighbors and wife wouldn't appreciate 10 pm grinding to clean up the fender gussets I cut.
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And thats up to date. Tomorrow the goal is to have the fenders on, cut the new light mounts, and reinforce the winch mount. Plan is to paint over thanksgiving. I have POR15 I think I'm going to spray along with their 2k epoxy topcoat. I have 100% new wiring, lights, and suspension bushings in boxes ready to go.

Other concern I notice is that I've made the tongue balance even worse. its basically neutral at the hitch right now. I'm hoping the new PT decking will offset that, but if not I might have to ballast the front, or move the axles back, which I really don't want to do.
 
If you think you may have to move the axles back, now is the time to do it. They probably only need to move back about 1-1.5’ to balance back out.
So I pulled measurements and did some math. Decking should add about 100lbs forward of the axles vs how it sits right now, plus whatever metal I add to it. By the time I add my spare tires and pin the winch in I think it’ll be alright. I also mathed out the weight change on the back from adding the channel and that’s somewhere around a 50-100 lb change behind the axles when you consider it has less decking, so not as bad as I thought.

With all of that being said, I think I figured out an easy way to bolt the fenders on rather than weld, which would make relocating the suspension in the future a lot easier.
 
This is 5” side channel and 3” crossmembers at 2’ spacing.

Believe it or not the original flyer says the trailer was available rated as a 12 K or 14 K with different axles. I agree it seems light duty for what it is.

I don’t really think I want it to be a steel deck. It would make it better for some things, but I’ve had experiences sliding off a wood deck, I don’t imagine a steel deck would be any more pleasant.

Said **** it and welded the fenders on. Played with the weight distribution a bit and took the junk off the back of the trailer and aired up the flat tire to get a better read on it. It’s basically neutral at the hitch right now. Literally if I lift it up, it’ll stay where I leave it. But I think between there being a little more deck on the front than the back, metal still to be added on the front, two spare tires and a winch, I think it’ll be fine. Definitely lighter than most trailers this size, but I think it’ll be perfectly fine behind my F350.

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If I have ambition after I eat, I might come cut out the front light mounts, receiver, hitch, Gussett, and maybe a gusset for the jack.
 
Didn’t get much done today other than finally ruin a plasma cutter tip (on the borrowed machine, I ordered a chinesium one for 300$ though) and cut the winch mount gusset. But had some time to think of ideas and fiddle with it.

First off there is this:



I double checked my math on the decking, and that’s going move 100lbs forward of the fulcrum, plus I put 100lbs on it to represent 2 spares that I normally carry plus the d-rings I’ve yet to weld on and the chains. Without the decking but all the other stuff it probably has 60lbs or so at the tongue (not counting the winch), so I again think it’ll be fine, and if it isn’t then I guess I’ll deal with it then. I’ve had enough of overthinking that.

I also need to get this done so I can move onto other projects. I haven’t touched my plow yet, I was really hoping to get some gravel down before the ground freezes for good. Not to mention the new pile of 318 parts for the Tucker, the XJ D44 on the bench for her Cherokee I’ve got to put gears and disk brakes on, the two JK Rubi axles under that moving blanket setup for my WJ, plus the pallet of WJ long arms and bumpers to install.

Anyway.
Tonight’s thoughts revolve around tool/strap storage and spare tires.
For tools & straps I’m considering plating and boxing off this area from the bottom of the frame. Would also reinforce the jack which has been an issue. I could easy-button it with expanded metal but that would suck in the winter.
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For spare tires I normally carry them on the front of the deck with a ratchet across them, but every so often the ratchet will slip or whatever, and it’s generally a pain in the ass.
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I don’t like the idea of the rail/stake pocket mounted ones the new trailers come with - seems like it would be in the way. Under the trailer is a bad idea for too many reasons. Won’t fit on the tongue with where the jack is or without making use of the jack a PITA.

My latest thought is to send a carriage bolt or something up through the deck (or an treaded insert) and capture the tires with a nut plate of some sort. Would also let me slide them apart a little to maybe squeeze the winch in between without taking them off? But curious if anybody has any better ideas. I really like the idea of mounting a spare idler hub to it somehow…

With the amount of over thinking I put into a trailer, imagine how my other projects work out. (Not quickly)
 
I tried the Baja style tire placement and it would make the jack suck. I know I could move the jack, but I’m also thinking that spot would catch a ton of **** in the winter.

Did some work today, had to go steal my friends C25 tank, and at this point I only have to weld in mounts for the brake battery and wiring junction box.

I think I’m gonna put the tires on deck, but I have an idea for making a flush mount threaded insert for the deck to take an easy hold down. It’ll be a later thing, but this is where it’ll go, which clears the winch. Only concern is that the stake pocket I normally use for my CJ5 is in the same zip code and the ratchet might end up against it.
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Also added D-rings to be able to hook on the other side too.
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Also put these smaller ones I misordered on the crash bar mounts and between the first two stake pockets. Also finished fabricating new front clearance light mounts out of left over C4 channel, but I forgot to take a picture.

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Also made these to stiffen up the fenders.
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And made a Shannon Campbell inspired license plate mount out of 2” 3/16 flat strap and some 3/4x1/4 flat bar. Because I’m tired of wrecking trailer plates. Now I can wreck the whole fender when I hit **** with it.
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Why not just bolt the plate directly to the fender vertically? It's asking to get ripped off hanging off the side of the trailer fender like that, since it's the widest point now.
Technically not legal (and I know nobody cares, and lots of people do it, but I try to keep things kosher and not invite roadside chats), and frankly I like the look of this better.

Fully agree that bolting it on the other way would make more sense.

All welding is done (I think), needled the front beam and a bunch of **** I missed, cleaned up the ramps a little and pressure washed it.
Unfortunately by the time I got there it was below freezing so degreasing and POR metal prep will have to wait till tomorrow. and we’re having thanksgiving at my house tomorrow, so probably in my best interest to not fume out the house spraying…

We’ll see.
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Why not just bolt the plate directly to the fender vertically? It's asking to get ripped off hanging off the side of the trailer fender like that, since it's the widest point now.
It’s gonna get bent not ripped. And the toll cameras won’t be able to read it when the C is bent 90 to the rest of the plate.
 
With the stickout the sidewalls have past the fenders, the bracket is really only an inch or so wider - and it’s how the plate was mounted from the factory. I just went through a couple plates over 10 years - just swiping a DOT traffic cone would bend the plate.

Also looked at the vin plate as I masked it today - the trailer is a 2005. All this work for a 20 year old trailer :laughing:

Lifted the back from the Drings with the lift and finally put paint to it today. POR15 followed by POR 2K Urethane top coat on the exposed stuff. This is only my second time using a real paint gun and I am not good at it, nor do I enjoy it. Lots of runs, and some of the epoxy coat on the fender tops has bubbles, but hey it’s all one color again.
Also said **** it and just painted the axle tubes as is - I’m gonna fluid film the piss out of it anyway. I’ll still change the bushings and hardware later this week.
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I was hoping to reuse the masking for fluid filming the trailer, my truck and her Jeeps later this week, but yeahno. I’m over it.
 
No real update here other than I tore down the plastic and have done nothing else to clean besides toss a cardboard box full of spent solvent and rags in a burn bin for quick entertainment.

I plan to keep the trailer on the lift to wire it this week (I hope) because it’ll be easier that way. I bought a junction box and a bunch of 2C#12, 2C#16, and 5C#16 rather than 7 way wire. Most 7 way I found was CCA which I’m not a fan of, and this way I can run the 5C (lights including reverse) and (2) 2C#12 (one for each axle) without having to open up a 7 way jacket for the brakes. Also gives me redundancy for when the ****ing dog eats the wiring again.

I’ll be using all new LED lights, including the Trux dual color red-white break/reverse lights. I had a set in it before, and I put them in everything now. Extra handy for loading because my truck has a reverse light override switch.

Also got plowable snow today so I had to move the old deck boards before they get buried from the roof clearing. 18’ lumber in an 8’ bed because I was too lazy to move the goose trailer in the snow. Gonna use it to park the sno-cat on next spring.
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Ultimately another project is to work a pintle hitch onto the ‘65 F250 because I want to haul my CJ5 to a ride with this truck and this trailer at some point. Don’t mind the tweaked bumper - that was a long story from retrieving my Wife’s buck out back this fall.
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I tried the Baja style tire placement and it would make the jack suck. I know I could move the jack, but I’m also thinking that spot would catch a ton of **** in the winter.

I think I’m gonna put the tires on deck, but I have an idea for making a flush mount threaded insert for the deck to take an easy hold down. It’ll be a later thing, but this is where it’ll go, which clears the winch. Only concern is that the stake pocket I normally use for my CJ5 is in the same zip code and the ratchet might end up against it.
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I think that's a lot of wasted room. Put them baja style, but backwards, over-hanging on the deck then.

Or flip the jack around
 
I hadn't considered mounting them on the deck side like that - I'll have to take a look at that, or maybe mounting on like a 45 degree angle or something. That being said, I've rarely had a problem with that space taken up before - its not like a 16' car hauler. The Jack is facing that direction so the handle can't hit the tailgate of the truck. The XJ and CJ5 sit well behind them and when the kubota is on the bucket sits on top of them fine. My intent here is to put the threaded insert in the deck so that in the event I do need that deck space for something longer or pallets, I can get the tire off quickly and toss it in the truck or whatever. The way they were before I had to pull them to use the winch, which I think I've solved.
 
Under the trailer is a bad idea for too many reasons.
I would rather have to move the spares once or twice a year maybe rather than needing to **** with one of those on the side of the road, not considering the effect road salt would have on it.
 
Mount the spare on top of the fender, standing up

there is no good place for a spare, put it in the back of the tow rig :laughing:

very close to doing many of these same things to my trailer as well, appreciate the updates
 
If the trailer has enough clearance I'd put them underneath right ahead of the axles, one on each side. Use a winch setup from a truck spare.
 
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