Help me pick an axle for 2002 Tacoma SAS

Not sure where all this thread went, but I'm sure everyone is saying 05+ D60, which is ******ed for 37s.

I thought about getting an entire FZJ80 front end and suspension. Perfect width, bolt pattern, almost bet the abs sensors go right in. I far prefer the FJ80 outters, can't stand the 30* steering on regular mini stuff. I ran my FJ80 front with rcv's and up to 39 stickies with really good luck.

The stock arms and coils would ride good and not break the bank. Just the obvious pass drop problem.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Not sure where all this thread went, but I'm sure everyone is saying 05+ D60, which is ******ed for 37s.
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SD seemed to be a popular opinion... not sure it is with a starting size of 37. Con plus stupidity may cause those 37s to go bigger quickly :homer:
YotaAtieToo said:
I thought about getting an entire FZJ80 front end and suspension. Perfect width, bolt pattern, almost bet the abs sensors go right in. I far prefer the FJ80 outters, can't stand the 30* steering on regular mini stuff. I ran my FJ80 front with rcv's and up to 39 stickies with really good luck.

The stock arms and coils would ride good and not break the bank. Just the obvious pass drop problem.
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One big flaw that will kill FJ80 front axle as a choice faster than I typed this: passenger side drop means exhaust modification plus transfer case swap... not overly cheap prospect.

The other thing is it violates my 25 year old rule of thumb to never upgrade yota outers.:emb:

I think I have a plan pending getting the taco to pass smog.
 
Lil'John said:
SD seemed to be a popular opinion... not sure it is with a starting size of 37. Con plus stupidity may cause those 37s to go bigger quickly :homer:

One big flaw that will kill FJ80 front axle as a choice faster than I typed this: passenger side drop means exhaust modification plus transfer case swap... not overly cheap prospect.
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I was thinking chop the axle up and make it driver drop

Lil'John said:
The other thing is it violates my 25 year old rule of thumb to never upgrade yota outers.:emb:

I think I have a plan pending getting the taco to pass smog.
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Don't upgrade then, just run it as is.

The other option I've thought about, but people will loose thier minds here.

Jeep JL axles and suspension. They're a perfect axle for 37-39s and trail wheelin. Even JK axles, but the rubicon version aren't much cheaper.

Only down side is no lock out hubs, but that doesn't seem to be a huge deal for jeep guys for the last 40 years
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Jeep JL axles and suspension. They're a perfect axle for 37-39s and trail wheelin. Even JK axles, but the rubicon version aren't much cheaper.
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Just order a housing off Amazon, even has free Prime shipping :flipoff2:

Amazon.com: WildGear Front Axle Housing Fit for Jeep Wrangler JL 205MM 2018-2022 4WD Dana 30 / Dana M186 3.45 Overall Top Gear Ratio # 68388729AA, 68388729AB : Automotive

Buy WildGear Front Axle Housing Fit for Jeep Wrangler JL 205MM 2018-2022 4WD Dana 30 / Dana M186 3.45 Overall Top Gear Ratio # 68388729AA, 68388729AB: Shafts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
a.co
 
fl0w3n said:
Just order a housing off Amazon, even has free Prime shipping :flipoff2:

Amazon.com: WildGear Front Axle Housing Fit for Jeep Wrangler JL 205MM 2018-2022 4WD Dana 30 / Dana M186 3.45 Overall Top Gear Ratio # 68388729AA, 68388729AB : Automotive

Buy WildGear Front Axle Housing Fit for Jeep Wrangler JL 205MM 2018-2022 4WD Dana 30 / Dana M186 3.45 Overall Top Gear Ratio # 68388729AA, 68388729AB: Shafts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
a.co
Click to expand...
Why'd you get a Dana 30 instead of 44/M210?
 
fl0w3n said:
Just order a housing off Amazon, even has free Prime shipping :flipoff2:

Amazon.com: WildGear Front Axle Housing Fit for Jeep Wrangler JL 205MM 2018-2022 4WD Dana 30 / Dana M186 3.45 Overall Top Gear Ratio # 68388729AA, 68388729AB : Automotive

Buy WildGear Front Axle Housing Fit for Jeep Wrangler JL 205MM 2018-2022 4WD Dana 30 / Dana M186 3.45 Overall Top Gear Ratio # 68388729AA, 68388729AB: Shafts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
a.co
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Perfect
:laughing:

I like how they throw in pics of different axles :homer:
 
tsomctl said:
Why'd you get a Dana 30 instead of 44/M210?
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I didn't actually buy anything, I just noticed they were on Amazon and thought it was kinda funny - I sent a link to the cheapest one I could find. They do have 44's for both JK and JL, but they're a couple hundred more.
YotaAtieToo said:
Perfect
:laughing:

I like how they throw in pics of different axles :homer:
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I wonder on the quality... but also these are probably just the manufactures for Teraflex or whatever selling direct.

I haven't penciled it out, but it doesn't seem like too bad of an option for the in-between tons axle.

I feel like you're going to pay $1-1.5k for a stock JK44/JL44 take out axle anyways, and if you're going to throw knuckles, shafts, locker, and gears at it...

"Built" JK/JL axles go for $2-4k


Lil'John heres some JLs you could consider

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That's not a bad price for what you get, imo. Those axles hold up well to JLs on 37s that wiegh a lot more. Rvc's are similar size to king pin 60s.

Ive also wondered about the rubicon 4:1 case. Could either use an atlas adapter, aw4/ax15 tail housing. Or eco crawler if you want super low gears.

Then you could use retubed jeep drive shafts also.
 
99-04 superduty would be a decent choice. Lots of room for growth past 37s, and slightly cheaper and smaller than the 05+. Or older fullsized D44??
 
Yellow_99TJ said:
99-04 superduty would be a decent choice. Lots of room for growth past 37s, and slightly cheaper and smaller than the 05+. Or older fullsized D44??
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The old D44s are getting super expensive and are a joke with tiny Ujoints imo. A jk or jk axle is such a better platform.

If he could find a driver drop waggy. It would be a good fit for 35s with the stock rear though.
 
Penetrode Offroad said:
Seems this is the way it is, 80 axles are fairly expensive too now.
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Those driver drop D44s are especially expensive in his area. Still a big following of people who want something drivable for rubicon or similar trails. All the tacomas and xj/tj guys love them.

The FJ80 axles seem to still be around the same price as they have been forever. At least in norcal.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Not sure where all this thread went, but I'm sure everyone is saying 05+ D60, which is ******ed for 37s.
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Why? Drivers drop and will take a hell of a lot to break on 37s and plenty of room to grow, f&r sets can be had cheap

Mine has more clearance under the diff with a true 35” than the ifs on 33s, way more under the tube so clearance isnt THAT big of an issue

Jeep/cruiser axles are very expensive for what you get, but at least you can keep your wheels with a cruiser axle.

Not that any axle is a perfect choice, but to say 05+SDs are “******ed” for 37s is kinda…well ******ed :homer:
 
JK13 said:
Why? Drivers drop and will take a hell of a lot to break on 37s and plenty of room to grow, f&r sets can be had cheap

Mine has more clearance under the diff with a true 35” than the ifs on 33s, way more under the tube so clearance isnt THAT big of an issue

Jeep/cruiser axles are very expensive for what you get, but at least you can keep your wheels with a cruiser axle.

Not that any axle is a perfect choice, but to say 05+SDs are “******ed” for 37s is kinda…well ******ed :homer:
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It's not always about strength and clearance. I totally see the benefits of a 60, I have a rig with them. But they have downsides also.

But for a rig that drives up those hills to the rubicon, and just wants 37s and to cruise the trail, not best on it. An 05+ D60 is ******ed. 72" wms on only 37s, the wieght, just over all size for packaging to keep it low enough for 37s.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
It's not always about strength and clearance. I totally see the benefits of a 60, I have a rig with them. But they have downsides also.

But for a rig that drives up those hills to the rubicon, and just wants 37s and to cruise the trail, not best on it. An 05+ D60 is ******ed. 72" wms on only 37s, the wieght, just over all size for packaging to keep it low enough for 37s.
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Yeah, stability from width and unsprung weight totally sucks lol

He’s already up the hill too, its not like he’s starting from the valley floor. I didn’t say that it was the perfect choice for him, just that its not a ******ed choice.

A D30, rockwells, land rover or sami axles would be ******ed :flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
It's not always about strength and clearance. I totally see the benefits of a 60, I have a rig with them. But they have downsides also.

But for a rig that drives up those hills to the rubicon, and just wants 37s and to cruise the trail, not best on it. An 05+ D60 is ******ed. 72" wms on only 37s, the wieght, just over all size for packaging to keep it low enough for 37s.
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After handling an 05+ 60 now in person, they are ridiculously overbuilt. Heavy, too.

An 05+ for 37’s is absolutely ******ed. 40”+ they make perfect sense.

Rangerrod’s idea of the 99’-04’ is a better idea. It seems to be close or the same to the strength of the KP60, but not ******ed heavy like the 05+.

FJ80’s are cool and all, but my gosh they cost a pile of money to upgrade. Just steering arms alone justify a 99-04 Dana 60.

When talking to Slander in person about his 02’ Tacoma he said the FJ60 axles were cool and all, and they wheeled well with 37’s, but admitted he would never do it again.
 
FleshEater said:
After handling an 05+ 60 now in person, they are ridiculously overbuilt. Heavy, too.

An 05+ for 37’s is absolutely ******ed. 40”+ they make perfect sense.

Rangerrod’s idea of the 99’-04’ is a better idea. It seems to be close or the same to the strength of the KP60, but not ******ed heavy like the 05+.
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How much different do you think those 2 weigh? Lol its like 100 Lbs
FleshEater said:
FJ80’s are cool and all, but my gosh they cost a pile of money to upgrade. Just steering arms alone justify a 99-04 Dana 60.
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Thats my only gripe with Land Cruiser axles, the price. $1200-$2k for a set that is at best 28 years old and in need of a full rebuild
 
JK13 said:
How much different do you think those 2 weigh? Lol its like 100 Lbs

Thats my only gripe with Land Cruiser axles, the price. $1200-$2k for a set that is at best 28 years old and in need of a full rebuild
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Do we have every part weighed out? Because I just cut off the C’s and fully dismantled an 05+ 60 and every piece of this weighs a pile.

So the 99’-04’ is 3” narrower, smaller C’s, smaller knuckles, smaller unit bearings and probably smaller lightweight brake kits. I’m asking for general curiosity.

But the Dana 50 might not be a terrible choice either. I just know the SD60 05+ is stupidly overbuilt for 37’s. I have a buggy sitting on 37’s and the knuckles alone look ridiculous next to them.

Landcruiser axles are never the answer. Unless you get them built and they’re damn near free.
 
I got my FZJ80 axles for $350. I got lucky though with that one. They had the front axle listed as junk. The only thing wrong was the the studs for the passenger side steering arm had sheared. They wanted $50 for it. I replaced all of the steering arm hardware on both sides for $40. They had the rear axle listed for $300. I did have to buy new calipers for both axles. I flipped the rear axle due to the gas tank location in a 3rd Gen pickup. Not too bad of a job. I also used a 110 mig welder like Slander. :flipoff2:
 
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fl0w3n said:
It’s an apples to oranges question, are we talking stock to stock? Or 05+ trimmed and shaved? Trussed or not? Etc

Thread 'Official Part Weight Thread'
Official Part Weight Thread
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I would say built. However the OP decides to build it.

If it were me, I would price out everything and go from there. If the 99-04 and 05-12 are similar to build to OP’s specs then I would consider weight.

If that’s all comparable then decide on 69”-72” WMS.

I still think it’s all overkill for 37’s.

2005 knuckle next to a 17” beadlock wrapped in 37’s.

IMG_7021.jpeg
IMG_7022.jpeg
 
FleshEater said:
I would say built. However the OP decides to build it.

If it were me, I would price out everything and go from there. If the 99-04 and 05-12 are similar to build to OP’s specs then I would consider weight.

If that’s all comparable then decide on 69”-72” WMS.

I still think it’s all overkill for 37’s.

2005 knuckle next to a 17” beadlock wrapped in 37’s.

IMG_7021.jpeg
IMG_7022.jpeg
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I’ve collected 99-04 based parts for my junk, so I agree there’s a place for it.
 
Like I said, it depends on what you want. I love the strength to cost of the 05+ stuff. It cannot be beat.

If you want a crawler that you can beat on, it's perfect.

From what I gather from op, that's not his goal. I have the same platform rig (96 4runner) and have thought about how I'd maybe like to step up to 37s. I have zero desire for D60 front in this rig. It gets driven down the highway and dirt roads more than just rock crawling.

If I did the FJ80 front, I would use the factory suspension and steering. The longevity of the stock stuff is appealing for this rig. Not having to worry about loose jam nut, squeeky hiems, ect. I would even just run stock birfs as I know how strong they are running Fj80s for years in multiple rigs. Being able to leave my stock rear axle as is would be a huge plus. Already geared locked and suspension already there. I agree the cost of high steer is a big negative, but for mild rig, it's not necessary.

The JL axles for $4k is a killer deal when you price out adding gears and selectable lockers to any axle.

Again, packaging is something people are glossing over. If you only want 37s, the D60 diff is hard to fit compared to toyota or d44.

How many have actually ran 1 tons on 37s? I ran 38 mtr's on my 60s and couldn't believe I got dead stopped by a rock on a 2wd section of a trail I'd driven many times with 32-35s or Toyota axles.

As far as the 99-04 stuff, if you're not doing anything to the axle, it's hard to justify any advantage over a 05+ unless you really don't want to cut radius arm mounts off. Only advantage to D50 is if can grab one for super cheap. The diff is the same size.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Like I said, it depends on what you want. I love the strength to cost of the 05+ stuff. It cannot be beat.

If you want a crawler that you can beat on, it's perfect.

From what I gather from op, that's not his goal. I have the same platform rig (96 4runner) and have thought about how I'd maybe like to step up to 37s. I have zero desire for D60 front in this rig. It gets driven down the highway and dirt roads more than just rock crawling.

If I did the FJ80 front, I would use the factory suspension and steering. The longevity of the stock stuff is appealing for this rig. Not having to worry about loose jam nut, squeeky hiems, ect. I would even just run stock birfs as I know how strong they are running Fj80s for years in multiple rigs. Being able to leave my stock rear axle as is would be a huge plus. Already geared locked and suspension already there. I agree the cost of high steer is a big negative, but for mild rig, it's not necessary.

The JL axles for $4k is a killer deal when you price out adding gears and selectable lockers to any axle.

Again, packaging is something people are glossing over. If you only want 37s, the D60 diff is hard to fit compared to toyota or d44.

How many have actually ran 1 tons on 37s? I ran 38 mtr's on my 60s and couldn't believe I got dead stopped by a rock on a 2wd section of a trail I'd driven many times with 32-35s or Toyota axles.

As far as the 99-04 stuff, if you're not doing anything to the axle, it's hard to justify any advantage over a 05+ unless you really don't want to cut radius arm mounts off. Only advantage to D50 is if can grab one for super cheap. The diff is the same size.
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My thoughts on the 99-04 in this exact use case are its strong enough and narrower put a 5” back spaced wheel and it’s not much wider than a 60” wide 44 with 3.5” wheel. Install shave kit and similar ground clearance and easy to run leaf springs just a lot heavier.
 
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