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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Canadian Ice Shack Build (the sequel).
- Thread starter Muckin_Slusher
- Start date
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #183
Received the 12 inch by 26 inch stainless piece 0.2 mm thick (twice as thick as the last stuff, which was too tinfoily).
Got more overlap with this one. Burned it for one night and so far so good.
I'm sort of proud of using a roll of flat stock in this way, it's easy to adapt different sizes with no specialty tools needed, no welding needed and no need to fight the stove pipes apart. Next shack though is gonna get a 1 piece chimney pipe and I'll make the wood stove kneel to get under the pipe.
Got more overlap with this one. Burned it for one night and so far so good.
I'm sort of proud of using a roll of flat stock in this way, it's easy to adapt different sizes with no specialty tools needed, no welding needed and no need to fight the stove pipes apart. Next shack though is gonna get a 1 piece chimney pipe and I'll make the wood stove kneel to get under the pipe.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #184
Used a nice day to tear down the 6 inch pipe on my shack. Coked up a little. There's always lots that accumulates in the elbow below the vertical outside piece. Solids just can't escape that much height.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #185
Got a couple shots of the modified hi-lift.
Big welded foot like this keeps the top of the jack from crashing into the shack wall when the shack decides to slide away because you're lifting it.
Big welded foot like this keeps the top of the jack from crashing into the shack wall when the shack decides to slide away because you're lifting it.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #186
frozen lock is getting old and I haven't made a little roof for it yet.
upsidedown lock and beer can roof
I need to use a slightly wider lock so I can position the bars uphill so the water doesn't run down the lock.
upsidedown lock and beer can roof
I need to use a slightly wider lock so I can position the bars uphill so the water doesn't run down the lock.
arse_sidewards
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 10,751
Rubber flap.
A scrap of roof membrane or semi truck/tractor/heavy equipment tire tube should do.
A scrap of roof membrane or semi truck/tractor/heavy equipment tire tube should do.
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Firstram
Well-known member
Is that for transporting or security?
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #189
security
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #190
Strange morning on Sunday. It was very mild all weekend and all night. Woke up to lots of fog.
Wood stove smoke heading west but the windsock was being blown north (somewhere between fully erect, and totally limp) and it was like that for long enough for me to walk a few hundred feet, find the phone and walk back out for the pic.
Wood stove smoke heading west but the windsock was being blown north (somewhere between fully erect, and totally limp) and it was like that for long enough for me to walk a few hundred feet, find the phone and walk back out for the pic.
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Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #192
You ever seen one of these in the wild?
That's awesome.
Be real neat to make a proper one out of one of those medium sized bombardier dozer things.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #193
Got the SIP shack back in to finish the renovations.
It had barn doors on the back, presumably to use as a shed. We're opening the doors and making them permanent as an addition. This is where the new wood stove will live. It'll get a straight up chimney out the new roof.
Don't have a brake, so did this to straighten some bends on the galvanized channel the SIPs are capped with.
Doors open, built a subframe from 1x2x3/16 channel to support the new floor. It'll bolt to the 2x2x1/4 aluminum angle that the runners are built from. You can see it mocked up under the doors.
Finishing the welds and tabs on the subframe.
It had barn doors on the back, presumably to use as a shed. We're opening the doors and making them permanent as an addition. This is where the new wood stove will live. It'll get a straight up chimney out the new roof.
Don't have a brake, so did this to straighten some bends on the galvanized channel the SIPs are capped with.
Doors open, built a subframe from 1x2x3/16 channel to support the new floor. It'll bolt to the 2x2x1/4 aluminum angle that the runners are built from. You can see it mocked up under the doors.
Finishing the welds and tabs on the subframe.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #194
Paint was dry this morning.
Marked and cut out the new floor section. Capped with galvanized flashing and bolted in place. Everything was drilled and bolted high and tight, and everything settled nicely to level. Important to give everything some clearance so you're not fighting everything all the time.
The little tab is to pull a sleigh. No need to hinge the tab, since nobody is banging ditches with an ice shack.
Marked and cut out the new floor section. Capped with galvanized flashing and bolted in place. Everything was drilled and bolted high and tight, and everything settled nicely to level. Important to give everything some clearance so you're not fighting everything all the time.
The little tab is to pull a sleigh. No need to hinge the tab, since nobody is banging ditches with an ice shack.
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Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #195
Closeup of the floor detail (notched to leave access to the tow rings and bolts.
Rear panel in place. I left the outer skin long to act as a flashing, since I don't have any of the galvanized capping other than what I slavaged.
Interior shot. Wood stove will go on a shelf about half way up, with firewood stored under. I think I'll use selkirk chimney on this one (where it exits the roof). You can see where the floor has buckled because the two fishing holes remove all the floor structure. Hopefully my subframe will provide better support here.
Rear panel in place. I left the outer skin long to act as a flashing, since I don't have any of the galvanized capping other than what I slavaged.
Interior shot. Wood stove will go on a shelf about half way up, with firewood stored under. I think I'll use selkirk chimney on this one (where it exits the roof). You can see where the floor has buckled because the two fishing holes remove all the floor structure. Hopefully my subframe will provide better support here.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #196
Scribed the roof shape onto a new panel, then left a lip of steel on the other side.
Folded up the lips to cap the edges and shed water.
Folded up the lips to cap the edges and shed water.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #197
In place and riveted with stainless rivets.
There's still more trim/flashing to go on, but you get the gist of it.
There's still more trim/flashing to go on, but you get the gist of it.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #198
Bought a 24" chunk of selkirk today, as well as the storm collar, stove pipe adapter and cap. Price was almost $500cdn for that, but worth it IMO.
Scribed and cut the top layer with jig saw for a 10.5" hole, then dug out the foam and cut a 6 inch hole with tin snips. Made a bunch of radial cuts and bent up the little tabs. Fits nice and snug.
Just gonna caulk the outside of the pipe, and caulk the storm collar as well. I don't think it'll see hardly any water, since it's tucked under the overhang of the upper roof.
Hoping 3.5 feet total of chimney will be enough to draft good.
I don't care one bit what anybody says, this IS the way an ice shack chimney should get built. Guaranteed to never have to **** with it ever. Weight is negligible and price is only 3 or 4 times more money than some cobbled together stove pipe would have been. Also nice an clean looking and nothing hanging out the side wall to get whacked on trees.
Scribed and cut the top layer with jig saw for a 10.5" hole, then dug out the foam and cut a 6 inch hole with tin snips. Made a bunch of radial cuts and bent up the little tabs. Fits nice and snug.
Just gonna caulk the outside of the pipe, and caulk the storm collar as well. I don't think it'll see hardly any water, since it's tucked under the overhang of the upper roof.
Hoping 3.5 feet total of chimney will be enough to draft good.
I don't care one bit what anybody says, this IS the way an ice shack chimney should get built. Guaranteed to never have to **** with it ever. Weight is negligible and price is only 3 or 4 times more money than some cobbled together stove pipe would have been. Also nice an clean looking and nothing hanging out the side wall to get whacked on trees.
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![[486]](https://data.irate4x4.com/avatars/m/0/94.jpg?1700178133){kind=avatar}
[486]
smell-o-vision
can probably make a removable extension if it turns out to be too short, or maybe add a little quiet computer fan to pressurize the firebox
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #200
Got started on the stove.
Air intake is a slide that closes all holes when slammed to the left. It runs in two mini angle iron channels, and can be pulled completely out to clear away rust/debris. These stoves are tight enough that you can stop the fire even when full of fuel and rocking, just by closing the intake.
Handle is a chipping hammer cut off.
Door handle pivot. Two big nuts drilled out to allow smaller bolt to turn free in them. Install bolt/nut adjust tightness and weld nut on.
Stove gets a ramp for the latch to catch on. I try to adjust everything so the ramp will compensate for wear over the years. Important to have the ramp upside down, so the handle locks on the down stroke from the outside (it's more intuitive, and gravity holds it closed).
I despise cheap sloppy stoves with outside latches.
The short piece welded to the door is to stop the handle from rotating all the way around. When this is omitted, people let the handle fall straight down, then can't seem to figure out how to close the door correctly.
Air intake is a slide that closes all holes when slammed to the left. It runs in two mini angle iron channels, and can be pulled completely out to clear away rust/debris. These stoves are tight enough that you can stop the fire even when full of fuel and rocking, just by closing the intake.
Handle is a chipping hammer cut off.
Door handle pivot. Two big nuts drilled out to allow smaller bolt to turn free in them. Install bolt/nut adjust tightness and weld nut on.
Stove gets a ramp for the latch to catch on. I try to adjust everything so the ramp will compensate for wear over the years. Important to have the ramp upside down, so the handle locks on the down stroke from the outside (it's more intuitive, and gravity holds it closed).
I despise cheap sloppy stoves with outside latches.
The short piece welded to the door is to stop the handle from rotating all the way around. When this is omitted, people let the handle fall straight down, then can't seem to figure out how to close the door correctly.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #201
Churched it up a bit with some artwork.
The guy I'm making this for works in mining, and has operated a shaft bottom mucker (clam).
Took this image:
and made this art for the door. Had to reduce the details quite a lot to cut it out of 1/4 inch steel.
The guy I'm making this for works in mining, and has operated a shaft bottom mucker (clam).
Took this image:
and made this art for the door. Had to reduce the details quite a lot to cut it out of 1/4 inch steel.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #202
And took this image of a galloway being hoisted into a concrete headframe.
and made this artwork for the top of the stove.
and made this artwork for the top of the stove.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #203
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #204
Riveted in an old department store shelf. Was plenty strong, but not quite stiff enough so I added a leg built from an old three bolt tongue jack.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #205
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #206
Deployed!
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #207
My pal 70 years old.
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #208
Finally got it on the ice .
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #209
Muckin_Slusher
Digging the same hole for 19 years.
- Thread starter
- #210
