What did you do to your RV today?

Provience said:
Looks good, not sure how you fit in that space :laughing:
Click to expand...
Lots of room. See the faint line on the right is the storage area wall. And the trim on the far left is where the other wall mounts.

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Spent the morning running starlink, network cables, new backup camera wires and removing a bunch of obsolete ****. Rear cap is stripped, loose and ready to drop tomorrow when hopefully I have help.

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Also rerunning the solar panel wiring since it will be much better/easier with the cap off.

Fingers crossed there's not to much water damage back there.
 
Reinstalled the awning. When I was building, I had all the brackets installed and was installing the fabric when the roller fell off the ladder. Since the upper rail is 12’ off the ground, it ripped the fabric. Wasn’t a big priority, so never finished putting it on. When I priced new fabric at the time, it was $4-500.
Found some cheaper awning material on Amazon for around $100. Hopefully it lasts a couple years.

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CarterKraft said:
Can you inject epoxy in there and then clamp it up?
Click to expand...
Maybe? I'm not sure there's enough wood left where the cap screws on to make it worth it. Since the plywood is unglued and falling apart, the chances of it coming out lumpy are high.

This weekend I'll take the rub rail molding loose and see how far it peels back. If there's enough working room I'll replace a strip so that the screw will have something to bite into. The rest will get epoxy of some sort. I've got a bunch of polyester resin, maybe that thickened with silica and beads to fill the gaps.
 
Once the glue lets loose it's a PITA to get back to go on. Lots of places sell an injector and epoxy to fill them. I've done it once to sell the trailer and make it Next Owner's Problem. It will likely fail again because what I have found is that most of the substrates expand at a different temperature than the filon, so no matter what the substrate and filon separates. If you have a composite substrate then it's not usually a problem as far as I can tell.

If it's plywood underneath you can sometimes get it to stick again because what happens is the wood separates from the glue on the panel, leaving wood (and wood dust stuck in the glue) on both pieces. If it is pressed cardboard then what usually happens is the cardboard separates from the filon. Nearly impossible to get the glue still on the filon to stick to the cardboard again without waves.
 
Finally finished up my addition of the 13 gallon gray water... and new drain plumbing. Tried it out this past weekend camping. It was really nice to never have to move from where I was standing to drain my tanks. The dude next to me just pulled his lever to drain his first tank when I was pulling away, we both parked (he had a 5er) at the same time. By the time he found his gloves in the storage container, fought with getting the slinky out of the bumper, fought with the caps, and walked around seventeen times to pull valves... it took forever.


DrainPlumbing_Installed2_S.jpg


Pull stinky slinky out of tube on the left, camper/ear side facing out so you literally pull it out a little and put it right on the valve. Put it on the drain receiver of despair. Open slide on drain valve. Pull far right black handle. Wait until it is down to a trickle then pull the right gray handle then left gray handle. Wait about 30 seconds then close the black handle (black tank is drain is higher than exit of gray into the big tube). Wait until it's to a trickle, close right gray then wait until no more water and close the remaining gray and slide valve. Walk out the stinky from the stinky, then stuff the turd ejector end of the slinky into the storage tube and cap everything. Done in minutes without moving.
DrainPlumbing_Installed1_S.jpg
 
wrath said:
Finally finished up my addition of the 13 gallon gray water... and new drain plumbing. Tried it out this past weekend camping. It was really nice to never have to move from where I was standing to drain my tanks. The dude next to me just pulled his lever to drain his first tank when I was pulling away, we both parked (he had a 5er) at the same time. By the time he found his gloves in the storage container, fought with getting the slinky out of the bumper, fought with the caps, and walked around seventeen times to pull valves... it took forever.


DrainPlumbing_Installed2_S.jpg


Pull stinky slinky out of tube on the left, camper/ear side facing out so you literally pull it out a little and put it right on the valve. Put it on the drain receiver of despair. Open slide on drain valve. Pull far right black handle. Wait until it is down to a trickle then pull the right gray handle then left gray handle. Wait about 30 seconds then close the black handle (black tank is drain is higher than exit of gray into the big tube). Wait until it's to a trickle, close right gray then wait until no more water and close the remaining gray and slide valve. Walk out the stinky from the stinky, then stuff the turd ejector end of the slinky into the storage tube and cap everything. Done in minutes without moving.
DrainPlumbing_Installed1_S.jpg
Click to expand...
that's how I like it too, all in one place.
 
Fixin to redo the new roof to rear siding junction.
Psa
Make sure there's no bubbles in the dicor...
:flipoff:
 
Captain Call said:
I just got home from 3,500mi in 10 days with the toy hauler...so, I am putting screws, bolts and other misc **** back that came undone in our travels. :lmao:

Oh, and a tire let go...in my driveway 10min after we got home. :eek::lmao::smokin:
Click to expand...
Win thread:beer:
 
one example with a lot of marketing
shopliquidrubber.com

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other options, do your own research...
www.homedepot.com

Henry 587 Dura-Brite White 100% Acrylic Elastomeric Reflective Roof Coating 4.75 gal. HE587871 - The Home Depot

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www.homedepot.com

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Henry 887 Tropi-Cool White 100% Silicone Reflective Roof Coating 4.75 gal. HE887HS018 - The Home Depot

This Henry 887 Tropi-cool - 100% Silicone Reflective White Roof Coating is designed to reflect the sun's heat as well as protect many types of roofs.
www.homedepot.com
 
Added 5 more cabinet door latches.
I like this style because they're positive, you know it it's latched visually from a good distance and you don't have to **** with them once you are at location.

But, they are a muthle ****el to get set up on some of these doors that have varying overlap. They get too far away from the edge into the molding etc.

Anyway they're done...
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Added 2 more scissor jacks, tried to split the difference between the front jacks and the rear but the steps made the location a little forward.

The front jacks are mounted on a 12" section of 2x3 tubing welded down the bottom frame flange.

I didn't want/need that so I just made some 2x2 stands. Knocked out some brackets on the plasma and forgot to check my work... Had it fully welded and painted before I figured out I royally ****ed up the pattern. Made another "correct" plate for the driver side and used it as a drill template.

I really just need these jacks to support the frame mid span , I noticed recently that the shower door opens/latches better during certain conditions, I'm hoping I can achieve those ideal conditions.
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Trying to run new backup camera wiring, EGT wiring and new rear speaker wires. I'd use the old ones to pull them through buuuuuutttttt, those assholes ziptied and electrical taped everything behind the A pillar panel.

20250921_141440.jpg


That panel went in before the dash, widow or header panel. Fun. I'm about to break the ****ing thing out.

Also, that window was leaking.

20250921_140700.jpg


Paint the steel frame? Why would you do that? ****ing Monaco.
 
Moved the 12v boat fan to a better structural member. I had it underneath on a luan trim board and it picked up harmonics that drove me ape **** trying to get to sleep, not good white noise...

Also figured out you could drill a hole in the stem to run the wire down, embarrassing that i didn't do that the first time.

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bdkw1 said:
Trying to run new backup camera wiring, EGT wiring and new rear speaker wires. I'd use the old ones to pull them through buuuuuutttttt, those assholes ziptied and electrical taped everything behind the A pillar panel.

20250921_141440.jpg


That panel went in before the dash, widow or header panel. Fun. I'm about to break the ****ing thing out.

Also, that window was leaking.

20250921_140700.jpg


Paint the steel frame? Why would you do that? ****ing Monaco.
Click to expand...
Could you run some Smurf tubes front to rear for chases?
 
CarterKraft said:
Could you run some Smurf tubes front to rear for chases?
Click to expand...
WTF is a smurf tube?

Too late anyways, broke that ****er out.

20250921_152025.jpg


They had stapled the material to the backside of the panel. Screwed the panel down, then wrapped it the rest of the way. It was never coming out without destroying it.

20250921_152107.jpg


New panel will have snaps on it or something so it can be removed.

****ing worst design ever. Cheap ass **********ers.
 
Putting on the new layer, wanted 1" under the cap. Lined it up with the side of the coach.

20251005_120936.jpg


Put the next sheet down and, **********ing front cap is 1.5" out of square. ****ing hack ass bull****.

1/4 done.

20251005_120916.jpg


My knees and back all ready hurt.
 
old WFCO convertor finally gave up on the trip last week. Good riddance...

There was a chinesium clone of the 55 amp wfco lipo converter on Amazon for $65 so I shipped it in.
Its a pretty direct copy from all details I can see.

Batteries were already "full" but I tested it anyway and boy howdy I've never seen more than 15 amps out of the WFCO

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