Build “Brophy Jeep” Street Legal Ultra4 4500 class CJ6

Engine oil and trans coolers mounted.
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Not much for updates guys. Dave has been working on fuel cell plumbing and modifying the fuel cell lift pump to reach the bottom of the tank.
I’m running the radium FCST with 3 AEM Aero 340lph pumps. We went back and fourth on a Hydro mat and at this point I’m not going to run it. I think with the surge tank I won’t need it. I know it’s added insurance but it adds complications with foam and installing the hydromat in the fuel cell. If I have issues I’ll deal with it. The silver tube is the level sensor.

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So your lift pump is a 340?
She's gonna be screaming for nothing.
 
So your lift pump is a 340?
She's gonna be screaming for nothing.
I’m gone to keep an eye on amps I can easily drop to a 255lph and that would probably make more sense. The surge tank has 2-340lph pumps in it. I wish I had kinda sprung for brushless in tank and PWM controlled them. If I see the amps over 5-6amps I’ll look into swapping it out. I with areomotive made a 255lph pump
 
I’m gone to keep an eye on amps I can easily drop to a 255lph and that would probably make more sense. The surge tank has 2-340lph pumps in it. I wish I had kinda sprung for brushless in tank and PWM controlled them. If I see the amps over 5-6amps I’ll look into swapping it out. I with areomotive made a 255lph pump

did josh spec those pumps?
 
So your lift pump is a 340?
She's gonna be screaming for nothing.
Also running bigger injectors at lower PSI so it less strain. Stock are 42lb new are 50lb
Drift car has injector clinic 72lb cause I’m stroker and on E85.
 
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did josh spec those pumps?
No it’s what I’m running in drift car. I was running a single 340lph with the L76 in the drift car that’s now in the race jeep. So never had an issue with fuel Pressure.
Now with the striker there are 2 pumps. They will be able
To run on or other or both if needed.
I probably should have done brushless and ran PWM control but it added $1500 to the system.

I did the calculations for the pump size came to 248lph

Injectors came to 458cc/min or 42lb/hr

 
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I’m gone to keep an eye on amps I can easily drop to a 255lph and that would probably make more sense. The surge tank has 2-340lph pumps in it. I wish I had kinda sprung for brushless in tank and PWM controlled them. If I see the amps over 5-6amps I’ll look into swapping it out. I with areomotive made a 255lph pump
I'm just worried about it overheating when tank is low on fuel, not necessarily the amp draw.
 
I'm just worried about it overheating when tank is low on fuel, not necessarily the amp draw.
I don’t plan on getting below 1/4 tank. Bu for sure **** happens these pumps are pretty resilient. I’ll be sure to pay attention when filling it to see what my reserve capacity is after it reads on the level. I’ll do 5 gallon increments to and put the info in the dash since it is a tapered tank. 1/4 and 3/4 will have a substantial difference of fuel.
It’s 32 gallons but with foam closer to 28 gallon. And let’s say I need a minimum of 2 gallons to even idle on flat ground leaves me 26 gallons and say 5-6 mpg at speed. 130 miles max. But figure most pits are 50-70 miles so I’ll be fueling a good amount but should be able to run a full day of rec wheeling or have decent trance on highway trips in between trails. I think I can get as good as 13mpg cruising. With OD.
 
I'm just worried about it overheating when tank is low on fuel, not necessarily the amp draw.
They are symbiotic. So too big of a pump will create a dead head situation that creates a higher pressure so it consumes more amps and creates more. Heat. You brought up a great point. I really don’t need a 340lph pump for the lift pump. It could easily use a 255lph pump and have an easier life and be more reliable.
In waste water we always look at pump curves for the most efficient part of the curve. That’s head pressure and rpm and GPM. There is a sweet spot!
 
Not a tone of progress as he is working on smaller projects. But the trans college is plumbed and addded an inline 100micron screen in case of catastrophic failure the cooler won’t get a ton of **** in it. I spoke with a few trans builders and they al said about the same thing. Not 100% needed but nice to have and maximum said run on but no smaller than 100micron. It will be part of of my service to pen it it once a year and check and clean.
The fuel filter will have the factory front passenger side storage hatch over the top of it to access everything super easy. Cleaning the fuel filter should be very painless and with dry break fitting no spilled fuel everywhere. Fuel pressure regulator is up on the fire wall next to fuel rail.

There will be a fuel shut off on the passenger side of the rig under on the frame rail and I might even put a pull cable on it later that can be pulled from outside the vehicle or in the cab next to fire suppression pull.
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Trying to decide which type of bias adjuster to run. I like it within reach while driving but I don’t need to fiddling with it a bunch. Plus when **** like this is out in the open every mouth breather can’t keep their **** beaters to themselves and spin the knob while asking what it does! Ask me how I know!! lol
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Put the knob one directly on the master output. Once it's setup you don't touch it anyways.

You can also plumb the regulator directly onto the fuel rail. Less hoses.

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Put the knob one directly on the master output. Once it's setup you don't touch it anyways.

You can also plumb the regulator directly onto the fuel rail. Less hoses.

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I honey hadn’t thought of direct mount. My Nissan didn’t have the room and I just ordered the parts for both cars at the same time. Same pumps same regulators same filters etc. One spare both rigs
 
I honey hadn’t thought of direct mount. My Nissan didn’t have the room and I just ordered the parts for both cars at the same time. Same pumps same regulators same filters etc. One spare both rigs
also makes sense
 
That’s gonna be awesome. I have been thinking of selling my C5500 flatbed toy hauler and doing something very similar to that. I think I’ll save money and have something much more versatile.
 
That’s gonna be awesome. I have been thinking -of selling my C5500 flatbed toy hauler and doing something very similar to that. I think I’ll save money and have something much
I just want versatility and be able to just keep some stuff on the truck. I think the camper will live on the truck more than off. And keep some spare and tools in the box as well as camping and cooking stuff.
Truck and camper for just camping
Truck and buggy trailer for day trips or trail camping on rubicon
Truck and camper and buggy trailer for multi day Fordyce or trips with rough road access to staging area camping.
Truck and enclosed for track days with drift car
Truck and camper and enclosed for multi day drift events or trips to hammers or anywhere with **** weather or long drives and extra gear tools and security is needed.
 
I think people often make simple mistakes when setting up the driver controls in cars. Wheel too far away. Seat too close to the floor or leaned too far back.
I like sitting more upright and my seat higher as long as the back of the thighs tough the front of the seat it’s safe. If I had 4 more 4”
Of foot well clearance bit would have been perfect.
Taking this picture was key as I realized the wheel was too far away from me. So we moved the wheel 2” closer.
We could have moved it more but that’s a 0 dish wheel and I figured I could alway play with wheel depth later if needed.
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Race seats are leaned back for a reason. The lay back helps plant your ass into the seat bottom instead of sliding off in an impact. That is why the seat is tipped back in your diagram and every other race seat install diagram.
 
Race seats are leaned back for a reason. The lay back helps plant your ass into the seat bottom instead of sliding off in an impact. That is why the seat is tipped back in your diagram and every other race seat install diagram.
It actually says seat as upright as possible. The belts keep you in the seat that’s why they recommend using the submarine built.
When the seat is laid back too far a belly hit or G-out will bend and compress the spine verse just compress the spine. Honestly suspension seats are not safe for serious racing but are more comfortable for trail wheeling. I’ve raced in both and would pick a hard shell seat for racing every time. I bought these seat when the jeep was just supposed to be a trail jeep. I’ll be happier trail wheeling in the suspension seats for sure. I’d rather take the hit in my shoulder belts than my ass in the seat. I’ve been in a pretty foot rear end wreck and the shoulder belts and head and neck restraints did their job!
We were chasing a trophy truck in the dust around 80mph and he brake checked us with no rear lights and we went under him 17 miles from the finish 2014 baja1000. We hit with a 30mph differential of speed and his rear bumper took the light at out. Dude didn’t stop just checked out!!
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