Think it's a harmonic frame shudder. More shocks seem to be dampening it.
It shuddered with a full leaf pack.
Care to share details of efan? It's rare I see someone using efan that is enough to keep 8.1/dmax cool enough better than clutch fan
I won’t say the electrics can pull as much air as the stock fan clutch, but it was damn good for me and never slowed me down for the environment I’m in. Some will say “you didn’t pull here” “you didn’t pull enough”. Meh whatever. It worked for me for at least 10 years and about 200k miles. 2 trips from Houston to pikes peak. 1 trip to Indy. Who knows how many trips to the Texas hill country in 100+° weather, Oklahoma, Louisiana, Arkansas. Hell, Arkansas I pulled the toy hauler with my car in it through the ozarks. Probably 15k# pull, 22k+# total. Never hesitated to pull the 12-14k# travel trailer. It’s a give and take. The fan clutch will pull a bit over 100hp off the engine at full lock up, but is pulling a ton of air. The electrics pull less air, but the engine still has full power. “But what about the engine drag because the alternators are working so hard?” Ya. That was measured under 2hp draw. So there’s that.
We have 245 17 19.5 16 pr on our flatbed and air them to 95, because that's what the wheels are rated for. It isn't always loaded heavy, but when it is we haven't had a problem.As long as the sidewalks aren't bulging yes.
Like he might be fine at like 80? But can't go down to 20 or something to go in snow or sand.
The steel belts in the side walls don't like to be flexed and if you bulge them out they will fail.
At least that's what I've been told. I've never wanted to experiment with $500ea tires
Where did you put the 2nd radiator and how big was it?
Hell yah. That's heck of info.I won’t say the electrics can pull as much air as the stock fan clutch, but it was damn good for me and never slowed me down for the environment I’m in. Some will say “you didn’t pull here” “you didn’t pull enough”. Meh whatever. It worked for me for at least 10 years and about 200k miles. 2 trips from Houston to pikes peak. 1 trip to Indy. Who knows how many trips to the Texas hill country in 100+° weather, Oklahoma, Louisiana, Arkansas. Hell, Arkansas I pulled the toy hauler with my car in it through the ozarks. Probably 15k# pull, 22k+# total. Never hesitated to pull the 12-14k# travel trailer. It’s a give and take. The fan clutch will pull a bit over 100hp off the engine at full lock up, but is pulling a ton of air. The electrics pull less air, but the engine still has full power. “But what about the engine drag because the alternators are working so hard?” Ya. That was measured under 2hp draw. So there’s that.
After all of my cooling mods (listed previously), my last mod was the electric fans. This was a custom mounting plate with 2 high power fans on the rad (originally called the fan damn max) and 1 fan on the secondary radiator, which was originally called the “rad mod v2”, because of the inherent overheating problem with the LLY Duramax. I had to replace a fan a couple of years ago and this was the part number I found, I don’t think it was as strong as the original, but still seem to work fine. Spal 30102803HO 16" High Output Fan (the “HO” at the end is very important). It’s not easy to come by, but this company has them in stock.
A1 Electric Online Store: Spal 30102803HO 16" High Output Fan
Spal 30102803HO 16" High Output Fan. Spal cooling fan for car truck and motorcycle radiators, air conditioning condensors and oil coolerswww.a1electric.com
Each fan will draw over 100amp at startup and run about 50-60 amp continuous per fan. I added the optional second alt to my lly to make this happen. The main bracket is there for a second alt. You just need another bracket, a pulley, alt and belt.
It was set up as one fan on, with key on. This took care of all unloaded driving and light towing, even ac on. A thermal switch kicked on the secondary radiator fan and v2 fan at 217° I think, but I had an override switch I would flip to turn on all fans as soon as I hitched on a trailer to stay ahead of the game.
Here’s a few pics I barely found on the setup. Don’t think I have any of the V2. Those are all archived somewhere
I think some better tires will work or two dana 80 axlesMay as well single the rear out then
Not dmax fanboy stuff when you just bought a truck brand new and it had a slight problem that GM wouldn’t fix and you can’t really afford to just trade it in on whatever might be better. In real time as it was going down, you just experiment and fix. I’m just happy I can share the infor for anyone who just picked up a 20 year old truck. No different than the PS 6.0 that can now be “bulletproofed”.The list to make the lly reliable is the most duramax fan boy **** I've ever read.
"just need to add a 2nd radiator and 15 other things and it's super reliable"
I don’t think I have pics anymore, but under the main rad in between the frame rails angled back. The guy who originally invented it isn’t doing it anymore. There’s a guy that reverse engineered it and has all the details here, but it’s still very old information
It’s easier than you think. Need the second alt (obviously). One alt bracket, 3 bolts, then the connector to trigger the alt on. I just spliced it into the main alt, then ran the big wire on the back to the battery. Oh ya. An extra pulley and longer belt too.Hell yah. That's heck of info.
When you get chance. Could you explain what was done to accomplished second alternator/wiring harness/bracket.
www.dcpowerinc.com
Check your front spring bushings. One of the rear shackle bushings if your springs have them, may be blown out.
