CMT2.0
Well-known member
Here's a jeep i just got going. Scx10ii base, it still needs sliders and a rear bumper.
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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
What's On Your Bench?
- Thread starter Brecklin
- Start date
90supra
Red Skull
Finally mounted up my JConcepts Warlord body. It ended up being longer than I was hoping for so I just hacked the back off. Just painted it with a few different paints I had laying around. Came out interesting.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
State Championship is at the end of September at the San Ysidro trials area if you want to make it out.
Built me a new WRCCA Sportsman class rig. I'll copy the build thread over here eventually.
abrogate
misanthrope
I decided to give my Ryft to my nephew so his parents could pay to fix it when it breaks. It had stripped the hex socket out of one of the wheels and that was when it became a dust collector. I told him I would get a new wheel and give it to him. After becoming frustrated trying to remove the glued tires, I decided to get him something better. Proline TSL SX 2.2's on SSD 2.2 Bouncer wheels. I've used other brands of beadlocks over the years, from Gmade, Injora, RC4wd and Supershafty. The SSD beadlocks are hands down the nicest and the assembly was perfect. They sell models specifically for Proline tires, which is what I run on all of my crawlers, and SSD has something figured out here. I have always struggled with assembling the other beadlocks with PL tires, but the SSD stuff went together absolutely perfect.
abrogate
misanthrope
I’ve been running a set of Team Garage Hack high offset 1.9’s on my Capra and the orange anodize was ugly. I watched some YouBoob videos which recommend Easy Off oven cleaner for removing the anodizing. I was hesitant to try it because the wheels are discontinued from what I can tell, but the solid orange just wasn’t working for me.
Before:
After:
It took a few minutes per wheel and the color washed off. I had to repeat it twice and lightly scrub the surface with green scotchbrite. The aluminum was no longer shiny though, so I lightly wet buffed the front with 1000 grit and some headlight polishing compound. I then took Brasso and polished them to a near mirror finish. I had about an hour total doing all four.
I kept the rock rings orange for now. They look much better.
Before:
After:
It took a few minutes per wheel and the color washed off. I had to repeat it twice and lightly scrub the surface with green scotchbrite. The aluminum was no longer shiny though, so I lightly wet buffed the front with 1000 grit and some headlight polishing compound. I then took Brasso and polished them to a near mirror finish. I had about an hour total doing all four.
I kept the rock rings orange for now. They look much better.
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 315
- Messages
- 404
Looks killer!I’ve been running a set of Team Garage Hack high offset 1.9’s on my Capra and the orange anodize was ugly. I watched some YouBoob videos which recommend Easy Off oven cleaner for removing the anodizing. I was hesitant to try it because the wheels are discontinued from what I can tell, but the solid orange just wasn’t working for me.
Before:
After:
It took a few minutes per wheel and the color washed off. I had to repeat it twice and lightly scrub the surface with green scotchbrite. The aluminum was no longer shiny though, so I lightly wet buffed the front with 1000 grit and some headlight polishing compound. I then took Brasso and polished them to a near mirror finish. I had about an hour total doing all four.
I kept the rock rings orange for now. They look much better.
Smoked the ESC on the SCX24 deadbolt a while back, finally got around to replacing it and within 15 min the second one stopped working and smells burnt. Super pissed, not too sure what the problem is and why it gave out so quick since the stock one lasted quite awhile.
At least the trx4m has been flawless so far
At least the trx4m has been flawless so far
abrogate
misanthrope
I have had similar experience with my SCX24. I think they are junk. The stock motor and servo are not up to par and it seems like the ESC is borderline. My truck is from when they were first released and I am not sure how the new ones are though. Is yours newer?
Yeah its been a game of wheel, break something, upgrade for awhile. First the motor so it has a purple Injora 050, then the steering servo so Injora on that as well. Its a fun little rig but the electronics are just trash compared to the trx4m, the hard parts have been fine though.
Its 3 years old at this point, light/moderate usage over that time but figured if the ESC lasted this long another stock one would be fine. I’m wondering if there is another issue going on cause the motor was super hot when it gave up the ghost…Ordered the esc off amazon so thats an easy return/exchange process.
Thinking of getting a replacement motor/metal trans combo to swap in and piggyback a injora esc off the stock transmitter and see how that lasts.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
The TRX4M servos are trash too. Other than killing stock steering servos on my AX24, I haven't had any issues. My SCX24 is still on it's original servo, but I am still running it on the stock 2" tires.
The scx24 was/is running heavy brass beadlocks and stickies so I wasn’t surprised when the steering went.
The trx4m is on stock plastic wheels and tires so I’ve had decent luck so far. Maybe I’ve just gotten lucky, but I haven’t had to replace anything on it vs every electronic bit on the axial
Motorcharge
Unregistered User
- Moderator
- #343
Never could get the MJ body and frame to sit how I wanted and it was stupid top heavy. Didn't feel like going back to the Injora buggy body and came across this. We'll see how PLA+ holds up, I really like this filament and it prints really, really well. Only thing I don't like is designed for it's own skid plate so that's PLA instead of steel now. Probably end up reprinting and the battery tray in PETG. Thought about printing the sides at 50% thickness in both PETG and PLA, may try that if it doesn't hold up well as is.
Swapped the stock nylon axles with some Injora 11mm+ steel ones. Only drive it around inside my apartment so far, but I like the added weight that low. Especially since there's so much down travel in the suspension.
Swapped the stock nylon axles with some Injora 11mm+ steel ones. Only drive it around inside my apartment so far, but I like the added weight that low. Especially since there's so much down travel in the suspension.
Jblack6527
Red Skull
Bought a Trailfinder2 from RC4wd in December, had a couple guys that said they wanted to go do some light stuff when theweather warmed. Well here it is September, I guess the weather never warmed up. Lol. Haven't even ran it enough to kill the battery yet.
abrogate
misanthrope
That filament is awesome! And the grinder pile flex shot too
abrogate
misanthrope
What are the specs on that rig? I really like it. I have been thinking of building a DLux Asylum. How much does yours weigh in at?State Championship is at the end of September at the San Ysidro trials area if you want to make it out.
Built me a new WRCCA Sportsman class rig. I'll copy the build thread over here eventually.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
It is a custom chassis designed by me with a Rhino S12 2340kV outrunner, Rhino 40A ESC, knock off Dlux NOD2, Knock off DLux cut to length drive shafts, A BDX aluminum offset Capra axle with 3.00:1 diff gears (Vanquish knock off), Stock Capra rear housing with Meus 4.125:1 diff gears and BDX shafts, bearings, and portal gears, NSDRC RS700 V2 direct power Servo, Tattu 650 maH 4S battery, FS2A receiver, Traxxas GTS "long arm" shocks, AMK 2.2 beadlocks, JConcepts 5.25" Ruptures, Crawler Innovations dual stage foams, and a Parma Xciter body.
Total weight with tungsten ready to run is 4.44 Lbs (2013.2g) with a 60.5% forward weight bias.
Motorcharge
Unregistered User
- Moderator
- #348
That filament is awesome! And the grinder pile flex shot too
Bought a few different ones from that brand and they all print really, really well.
abrogate
misanthrope
I snapped a front Capra housing on my TGH/Holmes Sherpa last weekend. I have beat the hell out of my built Capra and never broke a housing, but this truck is relatively new and fresh still. I am surprised the housing broke.
I ordered a Supershafty CP44 housing and assembled it tonight. I was bummed that I didn’t read their note that the TGH panhard mount for a stock Capra housing is not compatible, so I had to order the correct TGH panhard mount for the CP44. I am excited to see how the additional 5 degrees of steering and additional 8 degrees of caster performs.
The Beef Tubes knuckles compliment the CP44 nicely.
I ordered a Supershafty CP44 housing and assembled it tonight. I was bummed that I didn’t read their note that the TGH panhard mount for a stock Capra housing is not compatible, so I had to order the correct TGH panhard mount for the CP44. I am excited to see how the additional 5 degrees of steering and additional 8 degrees of caster performs.
The Beef Tubes knuckles compliment the CP44 nicely.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
I snapped a front Capra housing on my TGH/Holmes Sherpa last weekend. I have beat the hell out of my built Capra and never broke a housing, but this truck is relatively new and fresh still. I am surprised the housing broke.
I ordered a Supershafty CP44 housing and assembled it tonight. I was bummed that I didn’t read their note that the TGH panhard mount for a stock Capra housing is not compatible, so I had to order the correct TGH panhard mount for the CP44. I am excited to see how the additional 5 degrees of steering and additional 8 degrees of caster performs.
The Beef Tubes knuckles compliment the CP44 nicely.
That is a somewhat common failure for stock Capra fronts when they get beat on. YotaAtieToo just posted about it happening on one of his builds. He mentioned Axial changed the design up a bit and the new housing he ordered was beefed up a bit. It would be interesting to see the difference. Regardless, you shouldn't have that issue again with the aluminum housing.
abrogate
misanthrope
Interesting. I didn't know there was an updated version. I was familiar with people breaking the housings, but never had it happen to my Capra from 2020. It seems like most of the smoothing on the new axle has already been done by rocks on mine! The housing on my Sherpa is from 2024 and it has no updates on it. I don't use FB, but the link I found on google where I snagged this pic is from Feb 27 2025. I suppose this change came with the V2 4WS model. Good info because I can't afford another CP44 when/if my OG housing snaps....
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Oh interesting, I hadn't noticed the other changes besides the c's
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
1/10 scale correct?I snapped a front Capra housing on my TGH/Holmes Sherpa last weekend. I have beat the hell out of my built Capra and never broke a housing, but this truck is relatively new and fresh still. I am surprised the housing broke.
I ordered a Supershafty CP44 housing and assembled it tonight. I was bummed that I didn’t read their note that the TGH panhard mount for a stock Capra housing is not compatible, so I had to order the correct TGH panhard mount for the CP44. I am excited to see how the additional 5 degrees of steering and additional 8 degrees of caster performs.
The Beef Tubes knuckles compliment the CP44 nicely.
abrogate
misanthrope
Yeah.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
i need to get mine cleaned up and out and about. tires are way cheaper for sure 
abrogate
misanthrope
I got the correct Team Garage Hack panhard mount for the Supershafty CP44 Capra housing. It’s the one the left. The one on the right is the TGH panhard mount for the stock Axial Capra housing. They are very similar, but the holes are slightly off between the two and the stock one has the semi-circle protrusion.the face place in the CP44 has minor countersunk holes as well. I am almost certain the CP44 version pushes the panhard further out to the knuckle, but I may be wrong. Got it all together now and hope to try things out Saturday morning.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
So I just picked up well its in the mail. I should say a scx pro and I am 3D printing a LJ body off of some site. I'm not sure but it's a good way to test color schemes and do some off-roading with the RC again
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
SCX10 Pro is a good starting point. As someone who 3D prints a lot of parts, a 3D printed body is a bad idea.
