Build “Brophy Jeep” Street Legal Ultra4 4500 class CJ6

Rockchump said:
Modern problems require modern solutions. Unfortunately the LS3 intake flipped doesn’t work with the factory oil pressure sending unit. So Dave modified it to make it work. Burning the oil and schmegma out of the aluminum was probably the worst part.
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why not take it at the filter housing?
 
Rockchump said:
Modern problems require modern solutions. Unfortunately the LS3 intake flipped doesn’t work with the factory oil pressure sending unit. So Dave modified it to make it work. Burning the oil and schmegma out of the aluminum was probably the worst part.


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I ran into similar issues with the LS6 valley cover on my LM7 with a LS1 reversed intake. I am running an Autometer sending unit and it is just too big to fit in the space with the throttle and PCV lines. I am not the genius who figured this out, but I am the Crayon Eater who followed suit. Used a short pre-made grease gun hose and relocated the sending unit to the fuel rail. Later when wiring the engine, the coated clamp I used for mounting wouldn't allow for a case ground, so I had to run a dedicated ground to the female/female NPT adapter. Ghetto/redneck? Yes. Has it worked for over five years trouble free? Yes.

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abrogate said:
I ran into similar issues with the LS6 valley cover on my LM7 with a LS1 reversed intake. I am running an Autometer sending unit and it is just too big to fit in the space with the throttle and PCV lines. I am not the genius who figured this out, but I am the Crayon Eater who followed suit. Used a short pre-made grease gun hose and relocated the sending unit to the fuel rail. Later when wiring the engine, the coated clamp I used for mounting wouldn't allow for a case ground, so I had to run a dedicated ground to the female/female NPT adapter. Ghetto/redneck? Yes. Has it worked for over five years trouble free? Yes.

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That's a lot of trust in a grease gun hose. :eek:
 
The Freeak said:
That's a lot of trust in a grease gun hose. :eek:
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I understand the concern, but they are rate for a WP that is over 10x the normal high pressure for a LS oil system and a BP over 250x. I don’t love the idea of it, but it works and solved an otherwise crappy problem. I do visually inspect it often for any signs of degrading.
 
abrogate said:
I understand the concern, but they are rate for a WP that is over 10x the normal high pressure for a LS oil system and a BP over 250x. I don’t love the idea of it, but it works and solved an otherwise crappy problem. I do visually inspect it often for any signs of degrading.
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Fair enough.
 
This is where Josh wanted it in the factory location. If I remember correctly he said because it’s the actual representation of oil pressure after filters and coolers and in the main oil gally. Clogged or partially restricted filter or coolers can give a false high.
I met a guy at a NorCal rock race that lost 2 engines due to starvation and he had the sensor at the filter housing. After talking to him he was running -8 oil cooler lines and too small of a heat exchanger and that was restricting oil flow and causing premature failure. He was getting “good Oil pressure” because it was after the pump but pre coolers and filter he didn’t release there was a large DeltaP across the filter and cooler!
These things matter. I truely believe that us common folks are sometimes smarter than fancy engineers! Just maybe not every time. LOL!

As far as using the hose. I thought about cutting the tall factory boss down and tapping it 1/8th NPT the using a 1/8NPT to -4 AN 90 and either running the sensor straight to that or a hose like you. I’d use a -4 PTFE hose to handle the heat and pressure over time. Or hydraulic hose too. I like the idea of the grease gun hose! It’s essentially a mini hydraulic line! lol
It definitely crossed my mind.
 
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abrogate said:
I do too, but I can still sleep at night somehow. Sorry to derail this thread 🫠
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Not derailing. I really like the thoughtful input and creativity like this.
My hope is that someone will follow this and maybe help them with something they were stuck on or avoid an issue that one of us ran into.
 
abrogate said:
I understand the concern, but they are rate for a WP that is over 10x the normal high pressure for a LS oil system and a BP over 250x. I don’t love the idea of it, but it works and solved an otherwise crappy problem. I do visually inspect it often for any signs of degrading.
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That hose will be living its best life long after everything else on your buggy is worn out, and probably long after we're all dead.

The pressure behind a grease nipple blocked with gunk is immense, no-one ever thinks about a grease gun hose failing in that application...

:beer:
 
Made good progress on the JL. 60k services done (spark plugs, trans filter and fluid and tcase. Did the engine oil too.) before installing the skid plates. Other than being heavy the skid fit great. Same with slider and kick guard. I opted for the bolt free one as it’s more cosmetic and I hear these bodies are not easy to drill fir rivnuts.
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Remember kids always check your hardware before starting the job. I was reading through he instructions for the rear differential skid and it said I needed a spacer if I was not doing a HD differential cover. I knew I didn’t order so I so I made a template off the skid and started chipping away on the band saw. About 2 hours later I go to grab the installation hardware and notice there is a spacer included. Now mind you they sell the spacer seperate too! So I assumed I needed to order it and I didn’t have time to wait for it.
Anyways. I’m an idiot but I still got some skills!
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I opted for the next venture front and rear diff skids as well as the lower link/shock skids with UHMW! I really like the design and how the plastic just slides. Front differential skid skid and disconnect skid are on back order so probably not for this trip but with those I’m ready to go wheeling this weekend.
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Well. Took the jeep out for its first trip yesterday! It did awesome. Ran up to slick rock trail for the day then we had enough time to pop
Over the hill to Gardnerville to check out race jeep progress and go over some things.
Jeep did great it’s confirmed I haven’t forgotten how to drive! lol great trip and day!!
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Progress has been a little slow the last few weeks. Dave has been building a new set of skins and hood and some other mid fab work for a buggy he built at liberty mountain fab. He is back on the jeep now. He is finishing up some smaller items like the steering gussets, adding. -8 an to the stock valve covers and lee lied clearance the cable shafts to the inner C.
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As we get “closer” to wiring and tuning. I wanted to lock down what batteries I was going to use.
I’ve been severely disappointed with Optima and Odessey over the years so I wanted something better with out going lithium or crazy expensive boutique racing stuff!
I was watch some of the YouTube from Shannon Campbell CJ8 build he was using these 1500amp Total Power batteries. I reached out and chatted with him about them and decided to give them a shot. Both the airborne and total power look identical and have exactly the same specs. Need to see why it’s $70 cheaper a battery!
Anyone else using these?

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