Ray Charles Tacoma build

I also forgot to post the seats. I finally pulled the trigger on some seats brackets and harnesses. Prp enduro daily drivers. They are so much better than the stock seats.
I still need to make a harness bar so I’m just running lap belts for now.

The prp brackets sucked to bolt up they were so warped from the welds
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chays2464 said:
I also forgot to post the seats. I finally pulled the trigger on some seats brackets and harnesses. Prp enduro daily drivers. They are so much better than the stock seats.
I still need to make a harness bar so I’m just running lap belts for now.

The prp brackets sucked to bolt up they were so warped from the welds
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Nice

Mind saying what you were into all that?

I have the same generation 4runner with the typical blown out pleather seats. I've looked at those seats as well, but didn't pull the trigger. Good to know they're that much better.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Nice

Mind saying what you were into all that?

I have the same generation 4runner with the typical blown out pleather seats. I've looked at those seats as well, but didn't pull the trigger. Good to know they're that much better.
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I think it was about 1600$ for seats, harnesses and brackets. Definitely worth the money. The suspension seats make a huge difference Offroad
 
chays2464 said:
I think it was about 1600$ for seats, harnesses and brackets. Definitely worth the money. The suspension seats make a huge difference Offroad
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I agree, I have some cheap ones in my 81 and even those are so nice. We've been in it all day long on all types of terrain and never felt sore or beat up like I have after a few hours in stock seats. My wife thought it's not just the suspension seat, but being held in more snug and not having to fight your upper body moving all over the place.
 
looks like a limited... those are hard to find!
 
Wheeled Bald Mountain for Memorial day, did a day trip up with Todd in his dmax we did a sas on last yr. Drove the taco there, wheeled everything and drove it back. Met our homies up there and had a fun day, no carnage thankfully
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Forgot to post this, I did new brakes before the trip which seemed to help a ton. My issue now is my brake fluid leaks from the master cylinder cap on any steel incline, causing me to loose pedal pressure. Has anyone had this issue before? I got a new oem cap for the master and still didn’t fix the issue
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chays2464 said:
Forgot to post this, I did new brakes before the trip which seemed to help a ton. My issue now is my brake fluid leaks from the master cylinder cap on any steel incline, causing me to loose pedal pressure. Has anyone had this issue before? I got a new oem cap for the master and still didn’t fix the issue
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Sounds like you need the TrailRigRacing water bottle/ zip tie over the OEM cap mod lol.
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Getting ready for our annual 4th of July rubicon trip, I got tired of dealing with ice and coolers so I bit the bullet and got this iceco fridge on a 15% off sale on Amazon during Memorial Day.

I redid my battery box after running a jank one for years. Ran some 4gauge cables to some plugs for the fridge and spliced that into the fridge wire harness. Secured it all with some e track self tapped to the bed

Hopefully this fridge holds up to some bonus lines!
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Ran Rubicon for the 4th of July with some friends. My carrier bearing left the chat as soon as I got to the slabs and my front locker decided not to work right at gate keeper. Spent some time diagnosing it after blowing a 50 amp fuse. My dumbass decided to jump the Arb pressure switch with a wire causing it to blow. The final issue ended up being a bad ARB compressor switch that would work intermittently. I am getting tired of having ARB issues, I could swap to a different front locker but don't want to loose the select ability.

All in all it was a pretty smooth trip no other issues to report. Camped at buck and day tripped to the springs and back. Going to head back to the Rubicon for the Tacos on the Rubicon event in August
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YotaAtieToo said:
Ditch the electric switches and solenoids and just run air switches
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Was gonna post the same thing. My arb compressor system just compresses air now, no controls integrated other than on switch and the the pressure switch. Pneumatic toggle switches for front and rear lockers, with 1/4" high abrasion truck ptc air line and fittings/switches. Dead reliable.
 
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I will also say that, if you just want simple, my 9.5" grizzly locker in the front was great in the front. Never felt the need for a selectable. My D60 detroit was OK, but I also didn't run it much.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I will also say that, if you just want simple, my 9.5" grizzly locker in the front was great in the front. Never felt the need for a selectable. My D60 detroit was OK, but I also didn't run it much.
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Same with the Aussie and now spartan in the front of my taco. I used to drive in 2wd on the trail to deal with the steering issues, but with hydro assist I don't even notice the lockers, except when they just work when I want them to LOL
 
Slander said:
Same with the Aussie and now spartan in the front of my taco. I used to drive in 2wd on the trail to deal with the steering issues, but with hydro assist I don't even notice the lockers, except when they just work when I want them to LOL
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Same, only issue I have with lunchbox is in my samurai front. It's too light to make it consistently unlock everytime, even in 2wd with hubs locked. But the other 2 I've ran were basically invisible in 2wd hubs locked and very reasonable in 4wd.

My buddy just put one in his XJ front D30 and it works totally fine on the street with no hubs to unlock.

I really like auto front, selatable rear for a trail rig.
 
I ran grizzly’s front and rear in my old 4Runner and it would make the vehicle lurch when you pushed in the clutch and the lockers ratcheted. Not sure it would do the same in an auto but it made me hate driving the rig cause of that.

Might need to look into the pneumatic switches. My main consumable on the arb is the solenoid. I go through one every 4-6 months and they are 90$ a pop. It sure makes a difference in the rocks though flipping a switch and being able to turn
 
chays2464 said:
I ran grizzly’s front and rear in my old 4Runner and it would make the vehicle lurch when you pushed in the clutch and the lockers ratcheted. Not sure it would do the same in an auto but it made me hate driving the rig cause of that.

Might need to look into the pneumatic switches. My main consumable on the arb is the solenoid. I go through one every 4-6 months and they are 90$ a pop. It sure makes a difference in the rocks though flipping a switch and being able to turn
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Wierd that you go through them, is it getting excessive dust, water, ect where it's mounted?

My 4 runner ARB doesn't get used all that much, but it's 3.5 years old and has the same solenoid.

Either way, ~$25 air switch and some air tube should solve it.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Wierd that you go through them, is it getting excessive dust, water, ect where it's mounted?

My 4 runner ARB doesn't get used all that much, but it's 3.5 years old and has the same solenoid.

Either way, ~$25 air switch and some air tube should solve it.
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It’s right in the passenger fender well so I’m sure it’s getting way to much dust but I’m to lazy to relocate it to the bed or inside the cab. I will probably do the air switches at some point just haven’t had a lot of time to work on it lately
 
so I found out when I blew the carrier bearing it also killed my driveshaft double cardan ujoint.

I attempted to replace the ujoint but lost all the needle bearings in the center ball so I gave up and ordered one from tom woods (don’t have access to a shop anymore so I can’t build my own). It’s got 2” of slip at ride height so I’m hoping that won’t punch my tcase out. I flexed it out in the yard and it only seemed to move 1” with the axle swing so in theory it should be good

*update, I called Tom woods and they said as long as it has 1.5” of slip at ride height I should be fine.
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chays2464 said:
I attempted to replace the ujoint but lost all the needle bearings in the center ball so I gave up and ordered one from tom woods (don’t have access to a shop anymore so I can’t build my own)
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You do know you can get a new center ball for that right?
 
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