YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Is that even worth it? Emulsion c/o and you're shooting in the dark with the spring rates.
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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Is that even worth it? Emulsion c/o and you're shooting in the dark with the spring rates.
RunningProblem
Neurologically Spicy
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2020
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- 2860
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Radflo coilovers are supposed to be really nice, and the spring rates could be calculated. If anything they work well for mockup. Plus Shock Jesus in Minden can make them magical.
200/250 is a combined rate of 111.
Coilover Spring Rate Calculator (Dual Rate Spring Calculator)
Crawlpedia's spring rate calculator will help you find the correct primary, secondary, and tener spring rates for you IFS, trailing arm, or 4-link suspension.
www.crawlpedia.com
RunningProblem
Neurologically Spicy
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2020
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- 2860
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- 3,148
it's a few cutoffwheels and some tube work, right?
Do it right or do it twice.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Nothing against radflows, more that they are emulsion shocks (non resi)
Buying used shocks, you are stuck with those coils, or buying different ones. If you go new, you can swap the coils out for free.
- Thread starter
- #95
Have yet to pull the MJ in the garage, but brought my buddies TJ in to help him get it sorted for better road manners.
It is all over the road, changing lanes on its own, and gets pretty bad death wobble. Even taking off from a stop you can feel the two track bars twisting the body up.
Started digging in and found one of the front LCA joints had the c clip pop out so the guts were all loose. I’m sure that was a big part of it. Someone also did an inside frame track bar bracket, but that shortened the track bar up so there’s now a 4-5” difference between drag link and track bar.
Ideally long arms would go on with a 4 link rear, but that might be out of budget right now. Next best is just lowering it down to soften all the angles.
I’m thinking:
2” springs instead of the 4.5”
1” body lift / motor lift
new axle side or frame side track bar bracket, or both
Front shocks can probably get reused with short springs but rears can’t
Raised sway bar brackets
New steering box or rebuild from play
It is all over the road, changing lanes on its own, and gets pretty bad death wobble. Even taking off from a stop you can feel the two track bars twisting the body up.
Started digging in and found one of the front LCA joints had the c clip pop out so the guts were all loose. I’m sure that was a big part of it. Someone also did an inside frame track bar bracket, but that shortened the track bar up so there’s now a 4-5” difference between drag link and track bar.
Ideally long arms would go on with a 4 link rear, but that might be out of budget right now. Next best is just lowering it down to soften all the angles.
I’m thinking:
2” springs instead of the 4.5”
1” body lift / motor lift
new axle side or frame side track bar bracket, or both
Front shocks can probably get reused with short springs but rears can’t
Raised sway bar brackets
New steering box or rebuild from play
- Thread starter
- #96
Buddy had some unexpected expenses come up so TJ got put on the back burner. Got it back together as is and cleared out the garage.
Pulled the MJ in for the first time…
I’m having second thoughts on swapping axles on it, at least not this year. So goal is to just fine tune the 44/9” combo without going all out on $
Had a really big drop pitman arm that was hitting the tie rod limiting up travel
Swapped it for a pitman arm I had that I think is stock or at least a smaller drop, clears now. Drag link is the limit now, and the radius arms hit the leftover upper link frame brackets. Easy to cut those off and make the clearance.
Pulled the MJ in for the first time…
I’m having second thoughts on swapping axles on it, at least not this year. So goal is to just fine tune the 44/9” combo without going all out on $
Had a really big drop pitman arm that was hitting the tie rod limiting up travel
Swapped it for a pitman arm I had that I think is stock or at least a smaller drop, clears now. Drag link is the limit now, and the radius arms hit the leftover upper link frame brackets. Easy to cut those off and make the clearance.
- Thread starter
- #97
Started pulling sketchy wiring, I think some switches were wired with telephone wire lol. Tons of cheap rock lights that half worked, pulled those out. Wiring for a stereo amp that I don’t need.
So naturally the carpet came out. Found a little bit of California rust, hit it with a wire wheel and will probably just paint it. But I’ve never dealt with rust before so not sure if I need to do anything else to this.
So naturally the carpet came out. Found a little bit of California rust, hit it with a wire wheel and will probably just paint it. But I’ve never dealt with rust before so not sure if I need to do anything else to this.
- Thread starter
- #98
Rear is stock leafs flipped spring over, leafs are kinda clapped out.
I found some used Ranger Deavers locally for a good deal, and they’re the same length but different center pin location. I’m going to try spring under and redrill for the center pin and wind up with maybe a 1” stretch. Also ordered a lube locker to reseal that 3rd, hopefully that’s the only issue. And a RuffStuff 9” truss. I already have a traction bar on the shelf, but hoping I won’t need it with spring under.
I found some used Ranger Deavers locally for a good deal, and they’re the same length but different center pin location. I’m going to try spring under and redrill for the center pin and wind up with maybe a 1” stretch. Also ordered a lube locker to reseal that 3rd, hopefully that’s the only issue. And a RuffStuff 9” truss. I already have a traction bar on the shelf, but hoping I won’t need it with spring under.
- Thread starter
- #99
Once the rear is done I’ll probably order new springs for the front to match. I have some 3” BDS springs, but they might be too short.
I’ll probably redo the track bar, which would also allow me to change the sketchy stacked drag link tie rod setup and maximize up travel in the process.
I’m going to swap to the 38” falken stickies and get rid of the 40s.
I’ll probably redo the track bar, which would also allow me to change the sketchy stacked drag link tie rod setup and maximize up travel in the process.
I’m going to swap to the 38” falken stickies and get rid of the 40s.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Still plan to flip the tie rod to under the knuckle?
Even if you don't, drag link and panhard don't look parallel?
Even if you don't, drag link and panhard don't look parallel?
- Thread starter
- #101
Yes, flip it under and redo at least axle side mount, maybe frame side too depending how it fits.
It actually steers well as-is/was and I didn’t get any sense of bump steer the round trip to Hollister drive I did. So hopefully I don’t ruin that by tweaking it to try and get rid of the sketch and improve up travel in prep for lowering it a little.
D_JEEPER
Picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue
- Joined
- May 21, 2020
- Member Number
- 870
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Started pulling sketchy wiring, I think some switches were wired with telephone wire lol. Tons of cheap rock lights that half worked, pulled those out. Wiring for a stereo amp that I don’t need.
So naturally the carpet came out. Found a little bit of California rust, hit it with a wire wheel and will probably just paint it. But I’ve never dealt with rust before so not sure if I need to do anything else to this.
That's solid. I'd hit it with some rust neutralizer and some good rust bonding paint. If your pans and underside look like that you are in the proactive phase rather than reactive! Consider yourself lucky haha
- Thread starter
- #103
That's good to hear, thanks. One good thing about California I guess lol
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Agree with this.
- Thread starter
- #105
Might need to switch to a y-link tre setup over the knuckle.
Or for a couple hundred more do a high steer knuckle.
I’d like more down travel than this, but doesn’t look like this setup would have more to give.
Or for a couple hundred more do a high steer knuckle.
I’d like more down travel than this, but doesn’t look like this setup would have more to give.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Might need to switch to a y-link tre setup over the knuckle.
Or for a couple hundred more do a high steer knuckle.
I’d like more down travel than this, but doesn’t look like this setup would have more to give.
Slight bend in the drag link would work too, might have make a new longer one though.
Or do y link with good wobble stops on the tie rod. Would be able to keep tie rod on top of the knuckles then. I never liked them because they seem to loosen the jamb nuts and get sloppy.
There is the tre's with the built in drag link hole that make it so it can't loosen the jamb nuts if you want to go that way.
Or leave the stacked hiems and weld some double sheer tabs to the knuckle, that's the best way if you're comfortable with welding to cast.
Last edited:
D_JEEPER
Picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue
- Joined
- May 21, 2020
- Member Number
- 870
- Messages
- 1,292
I agree that the heim on that end isnt doing you much of a favor. High steer on the top of that knuckle might be a good way to go. However I can tell you from experience you are going to run into issues with that track bar mount on the passenger side with a high steer setup if you move the tie rod higher as well. At full passenger the tie rod sucks closer to the axle and will hit.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I think he meant just the drag link on a high steer arm?
D_JEEPER
Picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue
- Joined
- May 21, 2020
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Agreed, I was just adding another comment on top of that to keep him from going down the rabbit hole that I have been chasing with my build where I am scrounging millimeters of space to make things fit. I, too, have the TNT truss so I can relate, spatially, how things are sitting in there.
- Thread starter
- #110
I almost said that as an option, but I haven’t seen many people do it. Seems to be varying thoughts on thickness etc.
I feel like if it was surviving as it was stacked in single sheer, and the PO was wheeling it like that, even some 3/16 grabbing it in double sheer should only help.
Probably the cheapest option
- Thread starter
- #111
I was just going to do the RuffStuff 1 ton y-link setup, are you saying there’s a different option?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Exactly. Just do some research on welding to cast if you haven't already. It's a bit of a pain to do correctly, but not impossible.
I think I'd do a 1/4" tab between the heims and on top, then a web tieing them together.
I mean, its metal, you can do whatever you want. I've seen tabs on top of the tierod to use a hiems or there is a weld in bung out there with a through hole.
- Thread starter
- #113
I hate when something I was hoping would be relatively straight forward turns into a bitch.
Finally have been putting in some time on the MJ over the past 6 weeks or so, only get a little here and there.
I pulled the NV3500 dodge transmission it came with swap in my AX15 external slave and doubler setup. NV3500 made terrible noise when coasting at speed.
First, **** any cross member that doesn’t have a removable center, pulling the link arms and getting the axle separated to drop the trans is dumb. Unfortunately for ease I’m just going to reuse this TNT setup for now.
Removal got hairy, I had the truck sitting about 8” too high for my cheap HF trans jack so stacked some wood and strapped it down. Trans fell off 3/4 of the way through when it was just barely in the pilot so that caught it from crashing down. The entire trans hanging off the pilot bearing probably wasn’t good, but gave me a second to reposition and managed to get it to fall semi gracefully from there without wiping me or a ****in Jack stand out.
I already had new clutch / flywheel / right pilot bushing for external ax15 to early 4.0 etc so I figured I’d just swap it all in. The pilot I’m sure needed to be replaced anyways, at least for it unlikely being the right size.
I don't know if the pilot bearing was just seized good or it got jacked when the trans fell, but it would not come out with grease and dowel, then wouldn’t budge with a slide hammer and blind hole puller, then the arms for the threaded puller kept blowing out when I’d crank it down so finally made some brackets to hold it steady. Flywheel is on backwards just as a spacer to give the brackets height. Came right out.
This is the point where I learned a pilot bearing uses a sleeve and is pressed in the larger recess, and the bushing doesn’t use a sleeve and is pressed directly in.
The pilot bushing is stuck AF. It was bending the new brackets I made reefing down on it and wouldn’t budge. Tried the slide hammer again, nothing. Hoping grease and hydraulic force will get it before I resort to trying to cut it out.
Finally have been putting in some time on the MJ over the past 6 weeks or so, only get a little here and there.
I pulled the NV3500 dodge transmission it came with swap in my AX15 external slave and doubler setup. NV3500 made terrible noise when coasting at speed.
First, **** any cross member that doesn’t have a removable center, pulling the link arms and getting the axle separated to drop the trans is dumb. Unfortunately for ease I’m just going to reuse this TNT setup for now.
Removal got hairy, I had the truck sitting about 8” too high for my cheap HF trans jack so stacked some wood and strapped it down. Trans fell off 3/4 of the way through when it was just barely in the pilot so that caught it from crashing down. The entire trans hanging off the pilot bearing probably wasn’t good, but gave me a second to reposition and managed to get it to fall semi gracefully from there without wiping me or a ****in Jack stand out.
I already had new clutch / flywheel / right pilot bushing for external ax15 to early 4.0 etc so I figured I’d just swap it all in. The pilot I’m sure needed to be replaced anyways, at least for it unlikely being the right size.
I don't know if the pilot bearing was just seized good or it got jacked when the trans fell, but it would not come out with grease and dowel, then wouldn’t budge with a slide hammer and blind hole puller, then the arms for the threaded puller kept blowing out when I’d crank it down so finally made some brackets to hold it steady. Flywheel is on backwards just as a spacer to give the brackets height. Came right out.
This is the point where I learned a pilot bearing uses a sleeve and is pressed in the larger recess, and the bushing doesn’t use a sleeve and is pressed directly in.
The pilot bushing is stuck AF. It was bending the new brackets I made reefing down on it and wouldn’t budge. Tried the slide hammer again, nothing. Hoping grease and hydraulic force will get it before I resort to trying to cut it out.
- Thread starter
- #114
Hell yes. Found a 7/8 coarse thread that I was going to use as my dowel… but it was just barely big enough that it was kinda grabbing the threads into the pilot bushing… sparked an idea so i grabbed a big ****in socket as a spacer and hit it with some ugga duggas and the thing came right out in 5 seconds.
Now I’m finally where I wanted to be 6 weeks ago
Now I’m finally where I wanted to be 6 weeks ago
- Thread starter
- #115
Rear main was clearly leaking, and I debated skipping doing it since I'm trying to just get this thing going for a trip in June, but it wasn't going to get any easier than this and I didn't want it to ruin my new clutch. Still need to do valve cover gasket as that's obviously leaking too.
Got the new pilot bushing in, it's from a CJ and will fit the Renix 4.0 OD and the newer external slave AX15 ID, Dorman 690-042
Then replaced the rear main. Unfortunately existing oil pan gasket was cork so I probably spent an hour scraping and cleaning crusty cork off the surfaces. What a bitch.
Finally getting close, put 2qts of 80-90 in the 300, need to go get some MT90 for the ecobox. Have several quarts of syncromesh for the ax15.
Bolted everything up, I clocked it one down from flat, which is pretty far down. I don't have the time / want to mess with flat right now, so hoping this fits.
I'm going to get the bigger transmission jack from harbor freight tomorrow with the holiday discount, and the bigger one should reach high enough and hold this heavy piece of **** better than the cheap ass one. Hopefully it's not sketchy... I want this thing in tomorrow.
Oh and I need to order 1310 CV yokes for the 300. I'm going cheap right now, this setup should be within an inch or two of the 231 setup so I don't feel like redoing shafts right now. I thought about flange yokes on the 300, because that would let me do 1310 for now and 1350 in the future, but I'd have to rebuild the shafts anyways for that and then why not just go 1350 then... so 1310 yokes it is for like $100
Got the new pilot bushing in, it's from a CJ and will fit the Renix 4.0 OD and the newer external slave AX15 ID, Dorman 690-042
Then replaced the rear main. Unfortunately existing oil pan gasket was cork so I probably spent an hour scraping and cleaning crusty cork off the surfaces. What a bitch.
Finally getting close, put 2qts of 80-90 in the 300, need to go get some MT90 for the ecobox. Have several quarts of syncromesh for the ax15.
Bolted everything up, I clocked it one down from flat, which is pretty far down. I don't have the time / want to mess with flat right now, so hoping this fits.
I'm going to get the bigger transmission jack from harbor freight tomorrow with the holiday discount, and the bigger one should reach high enough and hold this heavy piece of **** better than the cheap ass one. Hopefully it's not sketchy... I want this thing in tomorrow.
Oh and I need to order 1310 CV yokes for the 300. I'm going cheap right now, this setup should be within an inch or two of the 231 setup so I don't feel like redoing shafts right now. I thought about flange yokes on the 300, because that would let me do 1310 for now and 1350 in the future, but I'd have to rebuild the shafts anyways for that and then why not just go 1350 then... so 1310 yokes it is for like $100
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Don't get overly hung up on flat on the tcase. It can create lots of issues.
I've seen more than one guy clock the tcase flat, then end up mounting the trans lower and having the front yoke point up, causing bad angles for the joint.
****ing dumb because the clearance is the same or better if you just clock down and raise the trans up.
I'd just try to match the 231 as best you can.
I've seen more than one guy clock the tcase flat, then end up mounting the trans lower and having the front yoke point up, causing bad angles for the joint.
****ing dumb because the clearance is the same or better if you just clock down and raise the trans up.
I'd just try to match the 231 as best you can.
- Thread starter
- #117
hadn’t thought about raising it up, I’ll have to look at that when I’m done. Like you said I’m just focused on getting it in right now. Going for a “don’t get it right, just get it running” theme here.
This is only one hole down from flat, because between flat and one down there’s a case through bolt.
Found center for weight balance, or at least close enough. Dog thought this looked sketchy. She was probably right.
Then I felt mentally challenged, it took me like 1.5hr to figure out the cribbing to get this securely strapped down. Feels much more stable than the smaller HF model.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Maybe get some tryactin? 
I just bench pressed my ax15 and atlas in (separately)
Was I was getting at about flat was just put that trans where it was and clock the case to where it clears the skid plate and floor.
I just bench pressed my ax15 and atlas in (separately)
Was I was getting at about flat was just put that trans where it was and clock the case to where it clears the skid plate and floor.
- Thread starter
- #119
I meant to weigh this thing, the Dana 300/eco combo is heavy AF and awkward. I didn’t feel like crushing my faceMaybe get some tryactin?
I just bench pressed my ax15 and atlas in (separately)
Was I was getting at about flat was just put that trans where it was and clock the case to where it clears the skid plate and floor.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Atlas was 100lbs, anymore and I think it was about the limit of what I'd do that way.I meant to weigh this thing, the Dana 300/eco combo is heavy AF and awkward. I didn’t feel like crushing my face
