Build “Brophy Jeep” Street Legal Ultra4 4500 class CJ6

Keeping this safe and serviceable is the goal when packaging critical sensors and electronics.
Dave made a quick call to Josh a FTA_inc to varify location and orientation of the dual LSU 4.9 wide bands
IMG_3233.jpeg
IMG_3232.jpeg
IMG_3237.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3234.jpeg
    IMG_3234.jpeg
    361.8 KB · Views: 103
If you don’t know who David Avila is you should!
He has worked at a few well known shops over the years before deciding to do it full time on his own.
He worked at Trent fab for many years as well Bomber Fab and most recently 🗽 Liberty Mountain Fab. He has the skills and knowledge and history of building and prepping high quality and performing race cars!!
Don’t forget to give a like and follow! :flipoff2:
IMG_3239.jpeg
IMG_3238.png
 
I traded some stuff for these lights probably 10years ago. They have a really shallow mounting depth so they won’t stick out too far. Hoping they are not nuclear brite! They say 4800 lumens Not sure which beam pattern these are I need to check with Dave. Hoping 10*-15*.
IMG_4839.jpeg
IMG_4840.jpeg
IMG_4841.jpeg
IMG_3263.png
 
Last edited:
Playing with ideas of where to mount the fire suppression bottle. It rarely needs to be accessible. Once a year to service and pre trip inspection to check gauge.
I don’t mind pulling the cower or dash out to service it.
IMG_3243.jpeg
IMG_3242.jpeg
IMG_3241.jpeg
IMG_3244.jpeg
 
Well ****!! It seems my Eye crometer was off by about .375”-.500” I never planned on running the alternator here so I never accounted for it when placing the motor and we are way beyond shifting the motor. lol.
I’m going to have Josh drop a wire in the harness for the alternator control and I will notch the frame later if needed. I can get a mecham 240amp alternator but those require maintenance and rebuilding more frequently and are not a common item at any parts store.
IMG_4923.jpeg
 
What's wrong with the bomber alt location?
 
What's wrong with the bomber alt location?
There is nothing wrong with that location. I just wanted to run dual stock alternators if it was easy enough. There are some advantages to running dual stock output ones.
1. cleaner idle voltages
2. Easier and cheaper to replace any parts house
3. True redundancy. Each alternator can hook to its own battery. Or charge either it’s the dual battery isolation switch.
4. Much higher reliability! A Mecham 240amp is a great alternator but it’s $500-$600 and needs to be rebuilt periodically and can melt down easier than dual stock ones about $120 each
IMG_3491.png


Con more weight.
 
$5600 not including alternators or power steering pump! lol that’s almost a $10k set after tax and shipping! lol. If I had that cheddar I’d have just bought a built rig instead on piecing this pile together like a **** box! lol

but trophy truck …

 
Wisconsinite can the driver pump/alt bracket be combined with the passenger pump bracket to achieve a dual alt setup with things kinda high?

seems like with an idler or two you could make it work

1747324042494.png
 
Last edited:
Wisconsinite can the driver pump/alt bracket be combined with the passenger pump bracket to achieve a dual alt setup with things kinda high?

seems like with an idler or two you could make it work


There are a few options, depending on the pump he wants to use.

This is our 4421 bracket kit, uses a factory style alternator, and either a TC/CBR pump.
1747324346827.png


This is our 4405-20 passenger side alternator mount w/ tensioner, and a 4422 driver side pump bracket. He would need the above alt/ps mount kit, and the passenger side alternator mount. Shouldn't be a big deal.

1747324444750.png
 
but trophy truck …

 

Attachments

  • IMG_3504.jpeg
    IMG_3504.jpeg
    338.6 KB · Views: 120
More updates from dave today and it triggered a memory of what initially started me down the dual alternators route! I was looking for idlers for better belt wrap on PS and crank and thought why not use a cheap LS1 bracket and just toss an alternator in it while I’m there. Unfortunately the alternator barely doesn’t fit but I’ll add one later down the line after it’s running and driving. I’ll just have Josh ad a wire on that side of the harness for it.
IMG_3518.jpeg
IMG_3519.jpeg
IMG_3520.jpeg
 
The original lower connection was too close to the frame and pointed down at the floor so Dave tigged on this elbow to roll the fitting away from the frame and pointed at the water pump. Had the tolerances not been so close a 90* silicone fitting probably would have worked.
IMG_3535.jpeg
IMG_3537.jpeg
IMG_3536.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Top Back Refresh