Build Hummer H3 Build

I never really looked into it, but I thought ID only tagged them like a SxS.
It doesnt much matter since we have the Rzr. And if we feel froggy, we'll take it the 5 miles to town. Its 65 mph, but the wife doesn't like it over 45. We just duck onto a side road to make room for someone to pass.
Or we can spend a few hours on FS roads and pop into town.

In the valley, I used to ride my mtn bike to work mid-Feb - mid-Nov. 10-18 miles. I was able to shower at work though. When we moved to Council, I realized how relaxing that was vs spending the last 30-45 min of my commute dealing with fuktards on the freeway. Of course, I was much happier while up here.
I had a beater 89 Civic for when the weather was bad. It was ugly as hell, but a great car.
 
I never really looked into it, but I thought ID only tagged them like a SxS.
It doesnt much matter since we have the Rzr. And if we feel froggy, we'll take it the 5 miles to town. Its 65 mph, but the wife doesn't like it over 45. We just duck onto a side road to make room for someone to pass.
Or we can spend a few hours on FS roads and pop into town.

In the valley, I used to ride my mtn bike to work mid-Feb - mid-Nov. 10-18 miles. I was able to shower at work though. When we moved to Council, I realized how relaxing that was vs spending the last 30-45 min of my commute dealing with fuktards on the freeway. Of course, I was much happier while up here.
I had a beater 89 Civic for when the weather was bad. It was ugly as hell, but a great car.
What's your definition of "go into town"?
The town of Council, or McCall or bigger?
 
You're right, it's probably like a sxs tag, so not a full plate.

Guys run sxs's down the highway here, but mostly just areas where there isn't a back road. Like 95 through town is 35 mph and the only bridge across the Kootenai for miles.
 
Council :flipoff2:
Wilkes brothers ****ed the backroads to McCall.
We go over to Donnelly and Cascade quite a bit. We can get to McCall, just several miles on West Mountain road.
 
There is a one mile buffer from city limits where you can ride on the hwy. I think Ada and Canyon are the only counties that don't allow them on the streets at all.
Not supposed to be on anything marked over 55mph.
4 of our 5 miles to Council are 65.
We can travel one mile either direction to catch Middlefork Road or Jackson Creek, those are dirt roads that become FS.
Goodrich road is just across the river another mile past Middlefork Rd. It goes all the way to Cambridge.
 
Council :flipoff2:
Wilkes brothers ****ed the backroads to McCall.
We go over to Donnelly and Cascade quite a bit. We can get to McCall, just several miles on West Mountain road.
When the Costco opened on Chinden, a ****-ton of people all over the mountains take the 95/16/and the 55 to the Valley to load up monthly at said Costco.
 
I have seen those little things registered and driving in the valley, idk how they register them. I thought they had normal plates.
 
Speak of the devils

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Even got some quad tires on it. Those are 22x7s :lmao:

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I’ve been DDing the hummer for a week and it’s gone well!

One last mod I did before starting the new job was flattening the track bar.

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Roll center went from 28 to 32in

Track bar angle went from 12* at ride height to 2*

Track bar at full droop went from 23* at full droop to 13* at full droop.

It now goes over the upper link instead of below. I can also go back to the old setup if I need to (I doubt it) but I made it so it can still go in the old hole. My only concern is strength. It’s about 7.25in higher than before, lots of leverage!!!! I put 2 braces on it. One from a tube to the top of the mount and the other is a triangle that ties into the lower control arm mount and goes all the way up to the top of the mount.

On off camber stuff it was way sketchier when the driver side was the high side (making the track bar angle steeper) I have read same side track bars aren’t sketchy or jack if the track bar angles are flat. It certainly wasn’t but now it is
 
So I got a company truck to use during work, to go to work and to go home from work, with that said, the Hummer is still a DD. The last company car didnt have logo's on it and we were able to use it for non-business related things and on weekends (a perk of that job.) This one is logo'd up and for work use only so I better behave while driving it :grinpimp: So yeah, the hummer is being used daily going to the gym, grocery store, etc.

Anyways, last weekend I took the full doors off, slapped on the half doors and went wheeling. Here is probably the best pic I have for new track bar leverage testing. It didnt break. Woohoo. Time will tell but I think the bracing I added should hold.

This notch can be a bitch. The guy before me was in a 1st gen bronco on 37s a D44/9in and fell in the notch, it took winching back, wheel hi lifting up, and a rig above to winch him up like a helicopter....we could have just dragged him out but if we didn't do that he would have for sure broke a u joint or kill a ball joint, he was bound up bad.





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Since I have a ride to work, and I can use the F550 for other daily activities I just ordered up my 2.5in 1.5 bore 10in double ended ram. There is a ton of info on the CBR pump thread, there are different ways to go but for now, it will be slap in the double ended ram, see how slow it is and go from there. This should give me a 77% increase in steering power compared to the single ended ram when turning passenger and over doubles the steering power when turning driver.

I went with a Surplus center ram, hopefully it arrives next week.
 
So I got a company truck to use during work, to go to work and to go home from work, with that said, the Hummer is still a DD. The last company car didnt have logo's on it and we were able to use it for non-business related things and on weekends (a perk of that job.) This one is logo'd up and for work use only so I better behave while driving it :grinpimp: So yeah, the hummer is being used daily going to the gym, grocery store, etc.

Anyways, last weekend I took the full doors off, slapped on the half doors and went wheeling. Here is probably the best pic I have for new track bar leverage testing. It didnt break. Woohoo. Time will tell but I think the bracing I added should hold.

This notch can be a bitch. The guy before me was in a 1st gen bronco on 37s a D44/9in and fell in the notch, it took winching back, wheel hi lifting up, and a rig above to winch him up like a helicopter....we could have just dragged him out but if we didn't do that he would have for sure broke a u joint or kill a ball joint, he was bound up bad.







Since I have a ride to work, and I can use the F550 for other daily activities I just ordered up my 2.5in 1.5 bore 10in double ended ram. There is a ton of info on the CBR pump thread, there are different ways to go but for now, it will be slap in the double ended ram, see how slow it is and go from there. This should give me a 77% increase in steering power compared to the single ended ram when turning passenger and over doubles the steering power when turning driver.

I went with a Surplus center ram, hopefully it arrives next week.

So are you planning on limiting the ram down to 8 3/4" for the stock hole travel?

I am thinking about getting the same ram, 8" get me close, but I can move the tierod in a bit on the double shear arms. 10" is way too long I'll have to limit it.

The nice thing about the 10" though, is if you ever want to get 50* shafts, you have the travel. (ignoring the box)
 
So are you planning on limiting the ram down to 8 3/4" for the stock hole travel?

I am thinking about getting the same ram, 8" get me close, but I can move the tierod in a bit on the double shear arms. 10" is way too long I'll have to limit it.

The nice thing about the 10" though, is if you ever want to get 50* shafts, you have the travel. (ignoring the box)
Yeah I plan to limit the travel. My reasoning behind a 10in ram is to think ahead. I have done so many things that I had to redo over the years because it wasn’t enough long term. So I could have bought an 8in ram or an 8.75in trail gear ram and it would do the job today but if in 6 years from now I can somehow get 50* of steering its way easier to just ditch the internal limiters and move on vs having to buy a new ram, make a new ram mount because inevitably something won’t line up or be right and cut all that crap off the axle and start from zero so I figured go 10, limit it, and know it will do anything I need in the future
 
i just traded a PSC 8" ram out over this exact situation lol

The 8" did ok on the SD60 but it left a bunch of steering on the table and i bought the 1550s up front because my original 1480s were seized up.
 
Went wheeling again. I’ll give an update, but first, I’ll mention that I take a picture when I hit every 1000 mile mark. When I went through my phone the past few years I hit it every Sept/Oct. indicating 1000 miles a year since it’s always in Sept/oct. I’m 9 miles away to the next 1000 mile mark and it’s only May so I’m definitely way ahead of schedule now that I’m driving it daily.

Anyways, got a good ass kicking again today.

We ran this trail


Machine screw….last time I ran machine screw I didn’t finish it, my buddy in his Toyota on 1 tons and 43in stickies exploded his t case input shaft and we had to get him out on 0 wheel drive.

So, time to finish it. Admittedly, I winched 3 times, and it’s a short trail, so that’s a good ass whooping.

It was 3 rigs, me, a ZJ that’s backhalfed, cut up, pretty light weight for what it is, on 1 tons and 40s, then a Sami buggy that makes everything look easy.

The beginning was all pinchy tight stuff.

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First climb I winch. I wish I had a picture of it from yesterday but here is the last time I ran it and where the Toyota broke

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Anyways, the ZJ and Sami buggy have suck down winches and fully used them, I’m not convinced I would have gotten it with one but it would have definitely helped, for reference the Toyota in the pic has a 120in wheelbase. I need to make a change on my cooling setup. I never overheated with my current radiator setup, and a single trans cooler, but I recently added a 2nd trans cooler and a PS cooler in front of the rad and it’s blocking flow. Working it on that climb I got up to 256 coolant temps by the time I noticed it was knocking, I’d imagine the oil temp was 270-280+. So that poor engine got a beat on. So I will be moving the coolers to open up flow. At speed it’s fine and before the coolers it was fine but PS system get hot. I’ve been told 250-300* isn’t out of the norm….if that’s true I’m sure I’m blocking flow with a cooler that is heat soaking the **** out of the radiator. Anyways, I was on the winch.

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2nd climb (above) the Sami buggy got but had to work at it for a minute. The ZJ didn’t get it, he winched, and I was so damn close to getting it but my front end got light, I think a suck down would have helped here. You can see all 4 were climbing.

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This was the 3rd winch spot, ZJ and Sami buggy got it.

I also noticed I was at 13.5psi. That probably didn’t help but I give myself the award “trail tampon of the day”

Other random pics.

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In the end, I drover there at 65 mph, and drove it home at 65 mph.

Tire pressure is a noob mistake on my part.

I think a suckdown would have helped a ton, that is in the works. I have one but it isn’t complete yet, each iteration has failed but integration with my double ended ram will fix that once and for all.

Weight, I ditched some weight on the 2nd climb and I felt a difference. I think I need to look at putting the hummer on another diet.

It was one hell of a day and I have more to work on.
 
I need to get down there when my rig is done, trails look fun :smokin:

How much lower would you run? Being radials on a bigger rig I'd think 13 isn't crazy high?
 
11 maybe? Maybe I do that on the front and leave the rears as is.

Anytime just let me know.
 
Hummer on a diet sounds pointless! You need to build a tube chassis buggy just like I do :flipoff2:
It’s becoming inevitable. I did chuckle, the Sami buggy guy said if someone else in a rig my sized asked to run machine screw with him he’d say no, he said he’s always surprised how I get this big girl down the trail and trusts I’ll do it someway or another.

With that said, I’d keep this as a badass family wheeler so it wouldn’t get parted out, and because it wouldn’t get parted out I need some cash to put new ****
 
So what's the plan with the other tires? I was kinda expecting to see you swap them for serious rocks, but not yet?


Also curious how the 6L80 is working out. I was just talking to my FIL, who has one with a 5.0 atlas behind it. My guess is 1st in low is going to be too low for most anything and an easy way to start in 2nd would be good. He went with all Holley management for engine and trans.
 
I wanted to give these a solid shot in various terrain YotaAtieToo I have now run them at the hammers and locally.

For a DD, these are the tires to use. While I haven’t run them in Moab or sand hollow I’d imagine they work better in those places than the 43s.

For strictly rocks, and my rig specifically I think the Baja pro XS is the way to go. They are wide, which kills my turning radius, but I feel like make my rig feel lighter and more nimble. Maybe it comes down to pressure per square inch I’m putting down on the ground, and if that’s the case, they are wide and lessen the pressure on the ground.

I’ll probably start adding them into the rotation for hard rock days. I just wanted to give the other tires a shot. I’m by no way ****ting on the baja boss off-road. Just different tools for the job. I can **** on the Baja pro XS for road manners lol.

As for the 6L80, I am a fan. I have been using double low first gear where I want ultimate control (110:1) but ultimately use 2nd (64:1) a lot more. On road it’s fantastic. The gear splits are close, you can accelerate nicely without having to wind out the motor.

Having the tap shift to start in any gear (1st, 2nd or 3rd) from a stop is super nice as well.

If you’re building a lightweight rig, there’s a 40-50 lb weight penalty to the 6l80 compared to a Th400 but for an all around rig I like it.
 
How hard would it be to set up a typical shifter to say all the way back starts in 1st, 1 spot up starts in 2nd and the "drive" spot starts in 3rd? Or vise versa
 
How hard would it be to set up a typical shifter to say all the way back starts in 1st, 1 spot up starts in 2nd and the "drive" spot starts in 3rd? Or vise versa
I’m told it’s possible but not in HPtuners. Another tuner has the capability to do that
 
went wheeling 2 weekends ago. I was depressed as **** that my lack of vacation time at the new job had me miss out on the rubicon trip I do annually so I had to get out of the house and stop feeling sorry for myself.

ran death wobble and lone pine. Lone pine I have done like 6 times and every damn time I run it I winch once or twice. I think I’ve gotten all the obstacles on the trail but on any given day, one of the obstacles will have me hook up on the winch so this was the first time I actually ran the entire trail clean. That felt great.

Typical full door to half door shuffle, did it Saturday night, wheeled Sunday, threw the full doors back on Sunday evening and was driving it to the gym in luxury at 5:30am on Monday.

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We had lots of flops or near flops. The 2 Toyotas on 37s with us all ended up sideways at some point. This pic wasn’t bad. It was fully over a moment after that.

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Random shot of me on the trail. Didn’t get much pics.

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The main change I made is cooling. This thing was a champ at cooling, H3s are notorious for cooling issues, but mine hasn’t been that bad. I did UA 2017 in 115-120* heat and that week had rigs pulling over left and right overheating. I never had to, but a couple posts back I talked about hitting 256 coolant temp. I think the giant PS cooler I added caused big heat soak issues. I removed that and mounted a smaller heat sink style one off the coilover mount. Who knows if it’s enough to get the job done. I know the old one was a big plate and fin overkill setup but many run these types.





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I also wanted to ditch the trans coolers from heat soaking and mount them by the rear bumper under the rig.

I can confidently say coolant temps are much better now with fresh cool (still 90+ ambient) air. The heat soaking seems to be fixed. I also plan on adding an oil cooler.

An H3T friend said his 5.3 ran 200-220 oil temps and his 6.2 runs 220-240 oil temps.

I checked and sure enough I’ll run 230-240+ all day long on oil temps. I wonder if that hurts coolant temps too.


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I’d like to mount the oil cooler there and I have a little 4in fan for it. I have trimming to do and cutting off an old suck down winch mount to drop its height.

Anyways, coolant temps are better. PS temps TBD, trans temps need some help. The fan pushing air on the trans cooler isn’t enough. My old trans setup literally couldn’t get hot. It was kickass, this setup holds its on when the TC is locked but can’t keep up when it’s unlocked. So I solved one issue and made another.

Anyways, I just want a 100% duty cycle, romp on it in 100+ and never get hot setup. I’m shocked I made it as long as I did with no PS cooler but going from 40s to 42-43s I’ve been killing pumps since. That’s kind of what started this snowball effect. Then I figured I need an oil cooler so I wanted to add that now
 
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