Build Scratch and Dent Special: Dirty Hooker Edition

Anyone on here have a plasma table and or brake?

Will happily pay someone time and material


Plan is for the horizontal plates to slide over/around the pitman arm slug, allowing me to weld all the way around the thing.
Im now thinking .250 material may be too think given he slug is only 1'' tall. Is .188 too thin for pitman arm? Plan would be to stick weld watchers on top and bottom of the hiem bolt hole

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.188 will be sufficient in double shear as long as you also web or plate the 2 together. Can also overlay .120 or less as well. Weld washers on the pivots as you mentioned. 👌

For that task, in an hours time you’ll have that fab’d with nothing but a 4.5” cutoff wheel, flap disc and a bench vice.
 

I have a plasma cutter, ironically. I’ve only ever used it for demo, not precision, so the precision handling skills haven’t developed and I don’t want it to look like a child/Michael j fix cut it!

Need to see what I have for material, as last night it looked like I was out of .188 and only had .250 :eek:

Plan is to either do a spine between the two pieces, or walls, to box it in. That’s a game time decision
 
You’re doing solid work, but I’m still hung up on the sex change…

I try not to be, ford put 40 years into the Windsor platform then abandoned it for chains and cams. Chevy dug it out of the bin and gave it aluminum heads and clean electronics. You can only blame ford for that:laughing:
 
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Had to take a brake to go to the dump. It paid off. Can you say dump outboard?!?!?!?! Obviously stopped working on the suspension, tore the engine to smithereens, and figure out it needs a CDI box which is no longer available. Will solve that problem come spring time. The rest of it looks 10/10. The local dump has furnished about 60% of our kitchen, and provided me MANY Craftsman belt driven tools.


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Drivers side, high as she'll go.


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Passenger side, high as she'll go.


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Passenger side, view 2.


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Driver side, view 2.


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Front end, stuffed.


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Looking up her skirt. Everything clears, stuffed, lock to lock.


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One more up the front pic!





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Driver stuffed, passenegr drooped....until the floor stopped me.


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So got a couple things: Driver side travels 9.5'' up, bottoms out on tie rod. Passenger side travels up about 8.5'', bottoms out on tie rod.
I dont have a bender but MoparMoe and I have our eyes peeled. If I was to add a small bent to the tie rods, I could get them about even, and make it so that the beams touch the frame....but I think that's a little aggressive/unneeded, so I'm happy with how she currently sits. I can steer both directions, quite sharp, without issue. Charlie at Power Steering Solutions will build a stop into the box, so still need to figure out how far I want those wheels to turn.

I bought a tilt mustang column off ebay to replace the existing stock/column shift unit (thats SMOKED). Ill need to cut a bracket off the stock one and weld it onto the new one, so thats not a big deal. Right now I dont fit under the 17'' stock wheel without shimmying around, so figured since I need more space, Id buy a tilt column. Thought about doing a collapsible column from Speedway Motors, etc etc, but for the price, it was hard to beat a stocker thatll take much less work.

Waiting for black Friday to buy my radiator (Griffin, 1.125 tube diameter, Crossflow, 2-Row, 24.0 in. Wide, 15.5 in. Height, 3 in. Thick).

Got to figure out/start cutting that pitman arm. May try "sketchup" and see if I can convert the files and send to "send cut send". That way I can get them precise, WITH sides that will basically go right together.

Then the worst part. Figuring out cage for suspension to mount off of. This detail will be a big roadblock A) not having a bender B) Not having bend much other than my Fummins rear bumper. For anyone who has seen "RetroRunner73" on Instagram.that's what Id like to copy for an initial engine cage.
 
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I have been trying to learn about beams so I have a couple of questions. Did you build the beams and swing steering? Is it standard to use bushings in the steering?
 
Nobody bends toob anymore :flipoff2: Mine cries in the corner all by itself.

There’s a cheap bender on the jungle website that’s all the latest buzz for the chicom owned YouTube celebrity fab channels
 
Nobody bends toob anymore :flipoff2: Mine cries in the corner all by itself.

There’s a cheap bender on the jungle website that’s all the latest buzz for the chicom owned YouTube celebrity fab channels
I have it in my Amazon cart. Currently $203.....
 
Looks :smokin:


I assume that the steering pivots to the frame are going to get some gussets? (In addition to welding)
 
Looks :smokin:


I assume that the steering pivots to the frame are going to get some gussets? (In addition to welding)
Yeah, I’m loosely planning to recut out of 1/4’’ or something a little more beefy. Mom haven’t figured out a “pretty” method to gusseting them, so open to ideas
 
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Hopped onto the capitalism train and nabbed the bender (Amazon) and a 1-3/4” die (Summit). The plan is to pick up a Vevor air ram, use some steel I have laying around to mount it onto the bender itself. Then find a used engine stand and mount the entire contraption onto that. More or less make a moveable bending setup.

Also, I picked a 1-3/4' die as I think this is the start of the project, and unsure its final direction. SCORE Rulebook says 2'' for anything over 4000lbs (cab cage). Lot to figure out, but I think that 1-3/4 will get me rolling, and I plan to make a similar engine cage setup to Retrorunner (ill post pics for reference later).

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Started tracing wiring. When diassembling I noted some wires snipped. Knew they were for the headlights, but didnt know which wires went ot what. Basically downloaded a manual and started tracing and labeling. Ironically I have a headlight kit, with relays, from my '74 Fummins build....so plan is to use that on this truck as it wasnt needed on the other one.

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From what I can tell the mongoloids before me had an ignition issue. Being the cave dwelling Neanderthals' that they were....they used red wire for EVERYTHING. So Id rip off tape, trace back to the original wiring, then snip and label. Most everything I discovered ****ed up...went to the ignition system/was bundled in with the ignition wiring.

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Ill be using a Holly Terminator X...so kind of working to determine whats needed and what isnt. Not quite sure how to make it all work....but hoping I can leave the trucks lighting (in the industry I work id call it the "Building Controls System" in place, HVAC/Lts) and then have the engine be its own wiring entity. If anyone has any tips for installing a terminator and wiring onto an LS, feel free to shoot pointers my way.

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Need to make an engine removable crossmember. Plan is a few bent tubes with thick plates and bolts. Id like removable, as itll be going directly under the oil pan, and removable would just be so handy if I needed to do work.

You can see the front of the engine is a little down. Reason being A) I emptied the bed of all steel, so the rear lifted up a couple inches. B) All the tacks holding my mock engine mounts in have bent a smidge over the last couple months of me banging on the thing and moving stuff. Going to need to start finalizing locations and committing to welding!

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Last but not least STEERING. What a pain in the ass. Old column fell right the **** apart as soon as I messed with it. I didnt fit under the seat with the 17'' wheel on and Im not a thick dude. Not small but not big, we'll go average for the sake of the story :flipoff2:....so Flaming River and Ididit make columns THAT COST A ****ING THOUSAND DOLLARS. **** THAT. So...I have a chevy steering box thanks to Power Steering Solutions, and figured why not go Chevy column, as all the overall dimensions match "chevy" to "Ford". I made a guy an offer on Ebay for one, so $236 and shes mine. We'll see how long it holds up, but its got tilt and I can easily weld the previously welded mounting plate onto the Chevy unit (cut it from the green column, need to weld it on the black column).Awaiting a wheel, so I can position it all once and have it be right.

Thats about it.

Saved up almost all my PTO all year, so heading back to Tucson to help some of my friend with labor on a house they just bought. Free stay traded for house labor. Perfect. :grinpimp: Closing the work computer on the 13th and ****ing right off until the 3rd of January. Basically working on my tan, and enjoying some warmth before returning to the cold north.
 
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Also, I picked a 1-3/4' die as I think this is the start of the project, and unsure its final direction. SCORE Rulebook says 2'' for anything over 4000lbs (cab cage). Lot to figure out, but I think that 1-3/4 will get me rolling, and I plan to make a similar engine cage setup to Retrorunner (ill post pics for reference later).

if you are serious about racing make it out of 2", youll be over 4k easily.
 
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Bite me. Been doing a lot, just not making posts.

Got the Chinese tube bender all sorted. Ended up buying a Vevor Ram, a returned set of Woodward dies from the summit eBay store, and used exhaust clamps to attach it. She works ****ing MINT.

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Did need to shim the bender some. There was some slop and a few of the spacers from my lathe filled the gap perfectly.
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And yes. These ****ers are holding strong. **** paying $230 for a “swag” unit. This cost me $21 and so far works great
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Next up was heat. I’d been using a Mr. Buddy, a torpedo, etc etc….propanes pricey. Decided to give a diesel heater a shot. 10/10, worth the money. I can turn it on, walk away and on high in 8 hours with an outdoor air temp of 10, she’ll chew through about two gallons. On medium….2 gallons can get me 12+ hours 😬 I’ve probably got 60 hours of runtime on this already.
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Last but not least is a big thanks to the Mexican Linde. She’s been putting in a TON of work, and teaching me the ropes. I’ve been ****ing up, and won’t be grinding away some of them….becuase learning is a thing and you’ve got to show folks it’s okay even when anll your welds aren’t perfect.
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More to come
 
I figured you would have this thing all finished up by now?

I have wanted my own decent power bender for a long time. But now it seems most all toob work is straight with nodes.

Dude it's already in the high 80s, winter is over, why a heater? :smokin:
 
I figured you would have this thing all finished up by now?

I have wanted my own decent power bender for a long time. But now it seems most all toob work is straight with nodes.

Dude it's already in the high 80s, winter is over, why a heater? :smokin:
****ing tough customer :flipoff2:

Ironically I was out in Oracle two weekends ago, wearing short sleeve, shorts, sunglasses......came back to the land of snow and ice baked like an absolute lobster.

Ive got a few bends, but nothing crazy. Ive literally never built a cage, and didnt plan to do a full cage.....so right now we are doing 1.75'' engine cage/bed cage. Depending how it all turns out ill tie it together and have this truck be a learning curve/play toy as the 1.75''/design in general doesn't meet spec of any rule book ever.
 
Ive never really bent tube, notched tube, or tried to build my own cage....so cut me some slack. BUT, having invested in the bender and tube...why the **** not. Really not about paying someone as Ive always wanted to have these skills. Its not 2008 Pirate anymore...now I have money to buy tools and do it myself.


Used PVC to start narrowing down mounts and locations.
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Pulled springs out of my parts pile to mock up/check clearances.
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Testing how I want to fasten **** together/what style attachment points I want to use
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Ultimately, this is what I chose to go with. These plates allow you to weld the tube to the frame. Slide the plate over the tube. Weld the plate to the tube/to your other weld...then weld the plate to the frame.
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Mockup
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Bendng an notching.
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More fitup
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Will it work? who the **** knows.
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Mind you. Ive never welded tube/nodes...or welded much. So this entire thing is a learning experience for me.

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Threw the core support on to check fitment. Note: I have a radiator already, and fitting up all that will come in the next few weeks. And yes....my steering shaft is a stick. Bite me.
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Not looking awful
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Seems to clea everything perfectly!
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Removed the cage, getting ready to weld her up!
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I drew a bunch of **** up and sent it off to send cut send. All around they did a good job, and it yielded me a bunch of good parts to use.

Welded the tubes together and started fitting up the plates.
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Not the best welds, but not terrible either.
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Now we **** the plates up and try to dimple die them even though the plates thicker than the dies are rated for.
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Turned a perfectly good flat piece into a ****ing banana.
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using the press and some willpower I turned the banana back into a mostly flat piece!
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Welded the plates on. Drivers below:
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Passenger:
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Whole package:
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Once again, learning to weld. Not bad for a first time....I dont think.
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Drivers side. The top right side I ****ed up, as did I the left hand "corner". Ill clean it up a little.
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Mocking up the lower coilover mounts
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Welded them up with the Mexican Linde!
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Mocking up the upper coilover mounts into the engine cage.
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Welding them up! The mounts dont go all the way up to the dimple died plate. I chose to prioritize the "wrap around edges" around the tube, over chopping the ears off and connecting the topside of the mounts to the plate
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Angled look perfect!
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All fully welded. Added tables for 1'' DOM connectors, tieing the sides together.
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Next comes cutting the firewall for the pedal box.
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Located all accordingly. Just need to do all the detail work to hang the box and all that jazz :flipoff2: :flipoff2::flipoff2:
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Bump because I’m picking up where I left off last winter….had way too much fun with antique outboards and fishing, and the F100 got pushed to the back.

I need help with power steering adapters. Bought a Saginaw box for a truck accessory spacing (Blazer SS? I lost my notebook where I wrote all the parts down 😑), and need to adapt to -6an.

I have an assortment of adapters from the Fummins build, but only the two inverted flare ones fit (5/8). The two shiny o-ring ones are too small and too big.

Kicker is that the doodad that came outa the pump is FLAT. No flare inside it. I’m assuming o-ring but I can’t grasp how the o-ring seals in the small ID.

Someone ****ing tell me what I need 😁

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The stock hose would have a flare near the end that an oring set against, and the oring is what made the seal in the bottom of the port. Or at least that's how it works on the Saginaw pumps on Fords.

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I would have thought one of those fancy -AN adapters in the top of your pic would be correct, unless you simply have the wrong size. Im guessing your fittings are SAE, but the pump is probably 16mm.
 
The stock hose would have a flare near the end that an oring set against, and the oring is what made the seal in the bottom of the port. Or at least that's how it works on the Saginaw pumps on For

I would have thought one of those fancy -AN adapters in the top of your pic would be correct, unless you simply have the wrong size. Im guessing your fittings are SAE, but the pump is probably 16mm.

So the two dirty ones thread in but they are inverted flare. The female port in the pump has flat bottoms, no flare.

I’m assuming I just need an o-ring flavor of the same thing, but wanted to have someone tell me that 😁

This is what I’m assuming the thing would be as the two o-ring ones I have pictured are too big and too small: Amazon.com: Edelbrock 648030 Power Steering Adapter 5/8-18 O-Ring To 6 An Male Clear Anodize : Automotive
 
That looks right, as long as your pump is SAE. The 90s Ford Saginaws are metric, so I'd verify your thread pitch before you order one.
 
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