Build “Brophy Jeep” Street Legal Ultra4 4500 class CJ6

Little of progress on the rear sway bar.
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ridered3 said:
Yay for updates again!
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I got sad news though. The person they sublet their shop from decided he does not want to renew the lease so they have to move out. End of April. They are going to try and find another shop in the mean time but first now the plan is they will work on the jeep until end of March and knowck out what they can and I’ll with pick it up and take it home or find another shop to do the tin work and misc stuff. I may have a shop space lined up here but 1.5 hours away in the mountains. So weekends only. I’ll keep y’all updated. This is just a hiccup But this isn’t the end of the line.
 
Rockchump said:
I got sad news though. The person they sublet their shop from decided he does not want to renew the lease so they have to move out. End of April. They are going to try and find another shop in the mean time but first now the plan is they will work on the jeep until end of March and knowck out what they can and I’ll with pick it up and take it home or find another shop to do the tin work and misc stuff. I may have a shop space lined up here but 1.5 hours away in the mountains. So weekends only. I’ll keep y’all updated. This is just a hiccup But this isn’t the end of the line.
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Dang that stinks for them and you too!

Hopefully they can find a bigger area to work from as it always looks pretty crowded in there.
 
Rockchump said:
What are you doing Step Winch?! lol
Slight miss calculation here. Need to chop the front bumper to drop the winch 6” or so to not block the radiator and protect the pitman arm.
Hoping to have a mock up by EOD!
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Do you think lowering the winch 6" or so will give you enough air flow to keep the engine cool? Those CJ grill openings are already small before cutting the bottom off like yours is.
 
Rockchump said:
While an RC9000 would have been easier to fit it only carries 50ft of line and you need a 2 wrap minimum so not really useful for real world wheeling. I wan to snow wheel and that stuff and sometime trees are pretty far away. And plus it’s 10k pull cap.
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Definitely makes sense.

I'm of the opinion that if you have an 8274 sitting around, you should almost always use it.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Do you think lowering the winch 6" or so will give you enough air flow to keep the engine cool? Those CJ grill openings are already small before cutting the bottom off like yours is.
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I think it will be fine. The radiator is 22”x26” with 2-12” fans and 2-8” fans. The head lights wil be some what open too with 6” vision X hanging out in that area. For 90% of trailers use the fans are doing the work. If it’s an issue full tilt in the desert I can always add rear mount radiator as I won’t have my dog or gear in the rear compartment. I’m over trying to chase theoretical perfection and just throw some **** against the wall and see what sticks. lol. 😂
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Do you think lowering the winch 6" or so will give you enough air flow to keep the engine cool? Those CJ grill openings are already small before cutting the bottom off like yours is.
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The old rule of thumb was 1square inch per HP at the crank. This radiator core is righ about 500square inches. And the motor I have makes about 480hp at the crank. Maybe if I go bigger engine I will have issues.
 
ridered3 said:
I'm of the opinion that if you have an 8274 sitting around, you should almost always use it.
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100%.

1000% for an old CJ :smokin:

Rockchump said:
The old rule of thumb was 1square inch per HP at the crank. This radiator core is righ about 500square inches. And the motor I have makes about 480hp at the crank. Maybe if I go bigger engine I will have issues.
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That is quite interesting.
 
First of all these winches don’t look as big in the box compared to on the car! lol bumper sticks out further than I liked but other option was an RC9.0 and they only hold 50ft of line and honestly don’t look as cool on an old CJ! Guys pivoted and killed it. That’s 2” x.25” wall tube and 3/16” plate. Winch can easily be unused as a suck down fir load and sand hollow.
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Rockchump said:
The old rule of thumb was 1square inch per HP at the crank. This radiator core is righ about 500square inches. And the motor I have makes about 480hp at the crank. Maybe if I go bigger engine I will have issues.
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That sounds to be about the size of my first radiator on my 4500 car. I was running a stock LQ4 and it wasn't enough. Just barely though.. it would slowly rise in temp the whole race. Switched to a big ol CBR rear rad and no issues.

I love the look of the new bumper! looks great.
 
broken4_racing said:
That sounds to be about the size of my first radiator on my 4500 car. I was running a stock LQ4 and it wasn't enough. Just barely though.. it would slowly rise in temp the whole race. Switched to a big ol CBR rear rad and no issues.

I love the look of the new bumper! looks great.
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The plan is the panel it in to create a high pressure zone at speed and allow the 4 fan the pull
Efficiency though it at slow speeds. Jason scherer ran about the same size in his 2009 car and it was LS7 cammed. Worst case worse. I toss a big rear mount radiator in it to race and the front radiator will be for rubicon and fordyce when I have my dog and gear in the back area.
 
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