Build 77 F-150 Ultra4

Tried my best to step up my layout and fitment game
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Slandy Rawson trick
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Black booger budget build
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21 yrs ago the hook was set in my mouth for rock sports. That being said, just had my first bead lock party.
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Really excited for this. I’ll be using 68-72 F250 calipers for the rear. They’re pin type calipers like Chevy so building a bracket will be super easy. Pictured is a 78 front for proof of concept.
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Plenty of clearance and protection from rocks
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Complete bead lock newb. What are racers using for lug nuts? I purchased these extended bulge acorns with a 3/4” hex.
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Simply for racing I made the decision to run an automatic this go around. C6 with E4OD goodies and most likely Broader VB. Haven’t got that far yet.
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Things and stuff that won’t agree with new transmission
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Upgraded my twin stick shifter. Inspired by similar product offerings for Chevy side drops.
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WiscoF100 said:
21 yrs ago the hook was set in my mouth for rock sports. That being said, just had my first bead lock party.
Really excited for this. I’ll be using 68-72 F250 calipers for the rear. They’re pin type calipers like Chevy so building a bracket will be super easy. Pictured is a 78 front for proof of concept.

Plenty of clearance and protection from rocks

Complete bead lock newb. What are racers using for lug nuts? I purchased these extended bulge acorns with a 3/4” hex.
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Love those wheels.

As for the lug not question. Are you going to compete with anyone other than ultra4? The reason I ask is some organizations have rules dictating some little things like that. For instance if you go race at Crandon their rules state that the lug stud must be longer than the lug nut. When the lug nut is tight I think they require a minimum 1/2” of stud exposed.

We like to run long closed end lug nuts if allowed. Our race rigs run 5/8 studs and the lug nuts take a 1” socket.
 
For your rear caliper mounts, get the front brackets off the same era E-250.
I don't remember what rear axle you are running, but on a Dana 60, 2 bolts line up and you have to drill the other two.
They are similar to Dana 60 front caliper mounts, but 4 bolts.
 
JR4X I was afraid you’d say that. 🤣 That was a circle track practice I was familiar with. Never made sense to me from a practical stand point. It’s too early to tell if I refuse to upgrade to 5/8 from 9/16 but then it would get me into those sweet lugs that kibbetech use to manufacture. I’ve entertained Crandon because it’s 4hrs from me. Was only about 1.5hrs before. Otherwise at this point I’m exclusive with KOH only.

72Pstroke it’s a D70HD. I’ll keep an eye out for E series stuff. Noticed today that the I-beams were 4 bolt but truck brackets weren’t easy or cheap to come by on some internet searching today.

chaplinfj60 thanks man. I couldn’t imagine what multi piece rings would be like. This was tedious enough
 
WiscoF100 said:
JR4X I was afraid you’d say that. 🤣 That was a circle track practice I was familiar with. Never made sense to me from a practical stand point. It’s too early to tell if I refuse to upgrade to 5/8 from 9/16 but then it would get me into those sweet lugs that kibbetech use to manufacture. I’ve entertained Crandon because it’s 4hrs from me. Was only about 1.5hrs before. Otherwise at this point I’m exclusive with KOH only.

72Pstroke it’s a D70HD. I’ll keep an eye out for E series stuff. Noticed today that the I-beams were 4 bolt but truck brackets weren’t easy or cheap to come by on some internet searching today.

chaplinfj60 thanks man. I couldn’t imagine what multi piece rings would be like. This was tedious enough
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You were from Utah. My 4500 Samurai had all kinds of weird **** from racing at miller Motorsport park not with ultra4. Drivelines painted white. Drive line loops. Long studs short lug nuts. Roll over valves, catch cans, a red lead on a master kill switch accessible from outside the car. BITD requires you to stamp your race number in the wheels. All stuff not required by U4.
 
Branik link arrived today. They’re each a year apart. Last year I was trying a new idea for my 3 link. I was stepping away from the 75% rule. Focusing on pinion angle to gain more droop travel.

I’ve since then decided to build away from 4500. These will be the front upper links. 2” x 40” eye to eye. All links will be RH RH
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2x.250 DOM with Ballistic joints weighed 23lbs each.
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JR4X said:
You were from Utah. My 4500 Samurai had all kinds of weird **** from racing at miller Motorsport park not with ultra4. Drivelines painted white. Drive line loops. Long studs short lug nuts. Roll over valves, catch cans, a red lead on a master kill switch accessible from outside the car. BITD requires you to stamp your race number in the wheels. All stuff not required by U4.
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I lived on the opposite side of UMC from Vic. My wife was an emt there. I only ever made a Lucas short course race to spectate. Never caught the U4 stuff…..well I remember walking in late one day and may have watched the last laps with 4500 stuff. Might’ve been a dirt riot show.
 
Last update of part hoarding

32 gallon RCI tear drop
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Moar transfer case shifter stuff. While I was at it, made a few extra.
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New drivelines will be
2.25” x .250”
Same yokes as before in the 1410 flavor from Northern drivetrain.
The carrier bearing is a Busted Knuckle product.
The old shafts will be kept as spares
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Replacing the plated knuckles for these Solid knucks. Keeping the Four Wheel Supply steer arms. Need to have a key way machined and they’ll be ready to rock
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First order of labor will be strip the front axle for new truss.

Also going to cut and turn the Cs. Any recommendations? Crane, Solid or Reid?
 
Drivetrain stuff

331 short block from a coworker. Roller block. 400hp+
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302 weighs in at 405 lbs. iron heads and the brackets/pulleys still on. The new bullet will easily be sub 400 fully dressed ready to run.
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Empty SBF C6 w/short adapter 47 lb 5 oz
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Empty Ford NP205 51 lb 7 oz
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The collapsed motor mounts. That’s how hard the hits in the desert were. Both sides. Pinched headers.
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Previously shared motor mount rough stage pics but captured a finished photo while disassembling yesterday.
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Getting around to truss removal soon.
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I’ll begin subframe V3.0 this week. A lot changes necessary for the front 4 link, rear trailing arms and to accommodate the automatic transmission.

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Came up with that 17 yrs ago. Self recovery. Very crude but the concept is solid. My new versions are better than fuel filters.
 
Wobble stoppers fresh from the mailbox. I’ve been excited for these to arrive. Ordered from

Heimsupply.com

Great customer service. Super helpful and fast shipping. I do business with the first person to pick up the phone, return a call or answer emails. Kyle checked all the boxes!
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How many RPM does it take to make 400 hp from that 331 ci? What heads?
Why heavier C6 over the C4 at 400 hp level?
 
400 should come in at or north of 4k. Which will suit me fine on the lake beds or sand hills. Most likely finished with 165 or 185 AFR heads and cam from Anderson Ford Motorsport. Haven’t talked to them or Broader for cam or converter info because I’m not allocating finances towards the engine right now.

Diff gearing will be 4.88 from 4.10. 100-120 shouldn’t be a problem across the lakebed now.

This engine made 582hp with 100hp shot. 10.3:1 with 60cc Edelbrock heads.

C4 vs C6 ? Case length and parts on hand. Also didn’t want to mess with tcase mounting. Case is directly interchangeable with NP435 and that’s what the entire chassis is built around. For my goals, power loss and weight aren’t an issue. Trans will be rollerized with the E4OD swap. Haven’t weighed a C6 yet but should be lighter than an NP435 anyways.

Stock torque for the 302 this replaces was 158ft/lbs @ 2,400 rpm. It flatlined @ 3,000 rpm 80mph with 37” tires.
 
Weighed all my parts for documentation and comparison

BBF C6 w/12.5” converter & short output

198 lbs
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SBF aluminum bell, 1/4” steel midplate, Ford Motorsports 157 tooth flywheel and McLeod diaphragm clutch, shaved NP435 and married adapter

221 lbs
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Stock Ford NP205 (first case I’ve owned with ATF)
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321.875 lbs
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PSC TC pump
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Power master 160a 3G
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Carb and headers 22 lbs

Ready to run, full dress 331 less water 407 lbs :smokin:

Aluminum heads, tin valve covers and automatic yield close to 70 lbs savings
 
Official KOH weight in 2018 was 5,123 as pictured and 22 gallons fuel. Spare parts, driveshaft and tools included. Pending roll cage Karen’s, my goal of <4,400 for 1.75 cage is very realistic with all the changes I’ve made.
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Keeping myself honest. Forgot to weigh separator plate and Flexplate

7-8 lbs because the Flexplate is actually BBF
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There is chatter about the feasibility of dual pattern 400 blocks. That the lower bolts and dowels are shared between SBF & BBF. Absolutely no way
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Super nice work you are doing! Excited to see ya out on the lakebed again.
 
You probably know this, 302 blocks are prone to crack down the lifter valley at around 600 hp. And given the engine has already been pushed to this limit, I'd inspect it very carefully.

It'll be fine, nitrous never hurt anything.
 
GGRR 4555 said:
Super nice work you are doing! Excited to see ya out on the lakebed again.
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Thanks. Maybe 2027-28?

rattle_snake Only 600hp 😁

The more I’ve thought about it recently, it’s cheap insurance to have the block crack checked. I’d just find a wrecking yard core if necessary. I’ve even entertained the real dirty junkyard stroker combos to make a race.
 
haha yes 'only' 600. Anyone with credit can go to a variety of dealers and buy a new 600 hp car or truck theses days. crazy.
 
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