Blue MJ

fl0w3n

fl0w3n

Red Skull
Joined
Feb 11, 2022
Member Number
4817
Messages
1,856
Loc
NorCal
I’m a bit of a spaz when it comes to my plans for building ****…

Bought this 90 4dr stock, built it mild on a budget, then broke it and decided it needed slightly bigger axles, which spiraled into collecting tons
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what started as just a goal to just do an axle swap turned into this
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Decided I shouldn’t build that 4 door, in fact I didn’t even want to build another Cherokee, but I stumbled into a great deal on this. The extra room in the door opening was amazing and being a 91 it was my first HO and ran pretty sweet.
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So I kept collecting parts to build it, this time with the goal of having everything I could think of ready to go before I tore into it.

But then… I spazzed again and took an early morning blast down the Central Valley
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And made a too good to pass up trade for this pile.
88 or 89 MJ
4.0 & nv3500 from a dodge with I assume a 231
79 bronco 44/9” with chromo front + ctm joints. Supposedly chromo rear but idk yet.
ARB front Detroit rear with 4.88s.
Adam’s 1350 rear driveshaft.
TNT fab long arms and cross member.
I think a TNT bumper with warn winch.
5.5” coils and stock leafs with just a shackle lift.
Bilstein 5100 long bois
Baldish 40” pats
Unibody is already ghetto plated with angle iron it looks like.
AC blows cold

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Short term goal is to go through it and fix some things, make it so I feel comfortable wheeling it.

Stage 1 is:
Probably swap to some smaller springs I have, throw my 38” Falken stickies on, get rid of the dodge 3500 and swap in my ax15 and most likely my ecobox/300 doubler. Add hydro, even though it actually turns really easy, I don’t want to crack the frame.


Stage 2 long term is swap in the 609 and 60u I am building. Possibly link the rear, go 3 link up front, cage it, and if I haven’t done the doubler yet do it then.

Stage 3 would maybe be LS

But who knows I might not even have it next year at the rate I go :flipoff2:


Couple initial things I noticed is the sketchy steering. I’ll probably just drop the tie rod below the knuckle and add misalignment spacers, unless I stumble into a high steer passenger knuckle. Might get flatter pitman arm in there and look closely at the frame side track bar bracket, possibly replace it.
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Looks like it needs new bushings almost everywhere. Kinda lame, the sliders look like they were put on before the angle iron “stiffeners” so they are just welded to the original unibody. I’ll look closer at how to improve that.
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The D ring weld on the bumper doesn’t inspire confidence.
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Interior photo from the seller. Tap handle isn’t my style… I’ll keep the headliner. Luckily I have some leftover interior parts from the white one that I can kinda clean this up with. Seats are better than the ripped Corbeau I already have. I need to see if I can get them lower. And get rid of the harnesses for now until it has a cage.
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fl0w3n said:
Couple initial things I noticed is the sketchy steering. I’ll probably just drop the tie rod below the knuckle and add misalignment spacers, unless I stumble into a high steer passenger knuckle. Might get flatter pitman arm in there and look closely at the frame side track bar bracket, possibly replace it.
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YotaAtieToo said:
Weld a double shear tab above the drag link?
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I want to balance not breaking with not spending much money on the current setup, so I'm just leaning towards flipping the tie rod below the knuckle and drag link on top.
I'm not sure about the track bar bracket on the axle side being at an angle like that, seems like the heims would pivot on different planes.
 
fl0w3n said:
I want to balance not breaking with not spending much money on the current setup, so I'm just leaning towards flipping the tie rod below the knuckle and drag link on top.
I'm not sure about the track bar bracket on the axle side being at an angle like that, seems like the heims would pivot on different planes.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't cost any money to weld a tab on, but I get that it would take time to do it correctly.

But ya, that was my concern also. Making the drag link steeper than the track bar.
 
Shouldn't need a misalignment spacer for the tie rod: those shouldn't go out of alignment with each other unless something goes really wrong. :flipoff2:

You'll probably have to move the panhard though...
 
Spent some time staring at it tonight, got a list started. Nothing too major yet, biggest thing I've seen is ball joint boots are rotted so I'll be doing those. Next biggest is making sure it doesn't catch fire from amp wiring just laying on the floor and rotted cracked battery cables, winch doesn't work but just makes a nice sizzling sound near the battery so that's cool.

I already miss the size of the 2 door and the extra space in the opening to get in and out ... I need to rework the seat mount to get it lower. 6'3 and high bolstered Corbeau's don't go well together. I'm thinking of going to the junkyard to try and incorporate one of those levers that raises and lowers the seat. I know my wife's CRV has that, anyone have any experience incorporating one of these brackets or have a suggestion of better vehicle to pull from?

I'm thinking if I can drop the seat down to get in and out, and then if I need to bring it up a little for driving angle I can with one of those seat frames.

Or I might just need to get rid of the high bolstered Corbeau's and go to something with a lower less sporty side so I can get in and out easier.
 
It looked a little deceiving but track bar and drag link are within 1/4” lengths of each other. Spacing on the next hole down on track bar would be the same as dropping the tie rod under and having drag link sit on top of knuckle, so I’ll probably go that route as the easiest no money route. It’ll put the tie rod closer to rocks but oh well, I feel like that bolt is asking for trouble as-is.

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fl0w3n said:
It looked a little deceiving but track bar and drag link are within 1/4” lengths of each other. Spacing on the next hole down on track bar would be the same as dropping the tie rod under and having drag link sit on top of knuckle, so I’ll probably go that route as the easiest no money route. It’ll put the tie rod closer to rocks but oh well, I feel like that bolt is asking for trouble as-is.

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Why not just drop the passenger side of the tie rod? It'll look silly, but it will keep it a wee bit higher out of harms way. I can't think of a reason it would matter functionally other than I'd point and laugh at your crooked tie rod.
 
YJLOPES said:
I can't think of a reason it would matter functionally other than I'd point and laugh at your crooked tie rod.
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:laughing: I don’t think my OCD could ever live with that. I’m nowhere near as meticulous and skilled as a lot of the guys on here but I still have an urge to make things as symmetrical and clean looking as I’m capable of.

I’ve already thought about ripping the whole front axle out to hit it with a wire wheel, clean up the rust and chipped paint and some welds, paint the shafts, and rebuild the thing freshy fresh.
 
fl0w3n said:
:laughing: I don’t think my OCD could ever live with that. I’m nowhere near as meticulous and skilled as a lot of the guys on here but I still have an urge to make things as symmetrical and clean looking as I’m capable of.

I’ve already thought about ripping the whole front axle out to hit it with a wire wheel, clean up the rust and chipped paint and some welds, paint the shafts, and rebuild the thing freshy fresh.
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I get it, to be honest, I’d probably just drop it under on both sides and live with it being slightly more vulnerable until you upgrade the axle. Move the track bar and send it. That’s the easy button.
 
Will my 5 lug hubs bolt to these knuckles from an 8 lug?

I don’t want to go down a rabbit hole, but if I can keep the brakes / spindles / hubs off the current setup and machine the passenger for an arm then that might be worth the price.

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Why do you need the parts pictured? You want 8 lug?

By the time you buy all that and have it machined, may as well just buy a ried passenger knuckle.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Why do you need the parts pictured? You want 8 lug?

By the time you buy all that and have it machined, may as well just buy a ried passenger knuckle.
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Because I want the flat top and I have a buddy who can machine it and probably make an arm. I do not want the 8 lug, I want to keep the 5 lug.

Yeah, probably wind up with scope creep and wasting money.
 
Your current knuckle looks flat top to me but it's been a while and I don't keep up on junk D44s :flipoff2:

Just keep this in the back of your head when adding up costs.

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I think just moving the tie rod under the knuckles and panhard down one hole is your best bet. Don't spend too much time on **** you plan on pulling out anyway.
 
fl0w3n said:
I’ve already thought about ripping the whole front axle out to hit it with a wire wheel, clean up the rust and chipped paint and some welds, paint the shafts, and rebuild the thing freshy fresh.
Click to expand...
A good time to do this is when you rip out those disgusting radius arms. They just scream 'poverty.' :flipoff2:

If you're goin to do anything with the Dana 44 I'd second buying Reid knuckles. Price out going 8 lug vs buying Reid knuckles. After that do the math on how long it would take to 3 link a 609 vs constantly upgrade the 44 before selling it to 3 link a 609. You'll get to build a new track bar, tie rod, add hydro assist and make up new shock mounts all at the same time instead of patiently piecing together a bunch of stuff you don't care enough about 'because I'm going to 3 link a 609.'
 
Mike Honcho said:
roll cage or just mall crawlin?

:flipoff2:
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Eventually. I’m looking for inspiration, something minimal but obviously safe. I’m 6’3” so I doubt I can fit an internal, but I like the look.


Interior options. I don’t know if I could lower the seat enough to get the room I’d need and not have tcase issues or just straight up driving ergonomic issues with pedals/wheel/visibility

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Couple exos I like, except for the front fender bar on the red one and the really long down tube on the blue one.
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I’ve also thought about just a basic headache rack style like dirt head Dave has on mazgrande
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Cage needs to be high on the list IMO. I’ve seen a few XJs destroyed from an easy mistake.



Mine with a flatbed
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Mike Honcho said:
Cage needs to be high on the list IMO. I’ve seen a few XJs destroyed from an easy mistake.



Mine with a flatbed
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Click to expand...
Advantages of one center node like you did vs how this one joins at the B pillar hoop?

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fl0w3n said:
Eventually. I’m looking for inspiration, something minimal but obviously safe. I’m 6’3” so I doubt I can fit an internal, but I like the look.


Interior options. I don’t know if I could lower the seat enough to get the room I’d need and not have tcase issues or just straight up driving ergonomic issues with pedals/wheel/visibility








Couple exos I like, except for the front fender bar on the red one and the really long down tube on the blue one.

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I’ve also thought about just a basic headache rack style like dirt head Dave has on mazgrande
Click to expand...

I vote this style. Paint it the same color as the body for even more stealth points.

I don't like 2000 era jungle gyms either, but it's nice to be able to lean into a tree or whatever and no wipe out the windshield.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I vote this style. Paint it the same color as the body for even more stealth points.

I don't like 2000 era jungle gyms either, but it's nice to be able to lean into a tree or whatever and no wipe out the windshield.
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More from that guys build.

And then found his buddy who did the same cage, but I like how the bed bars only went halfway back the bed and not the whole run.
But I like the blue ones lack of windshield bar.

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I dig the blue one. Im pretty sure he was on a Wrecked Gear video. Just make sure the cage is tied into something other than sheet metal:flipoff2:
 
Recommendations on seats? I like the comfort of the corbeau once I’m in them, but it’s ridiculous getting in with the high bolsters.

A more traditional seat would help getting in and out.

What are some good budget minded seat options that are comfortable for trail wheeling but don’t have such a deep bucket?
 
fl0w3n said:
Recommendations on seats? I like the comfort of the corbeau once I’m in them, but it’s ridiculous getting in with the high bolsters.

A more traditional seat would help getting in and out.

What are some good budget minded seat options that are comfortable for trail wheeling but don’t have such a deep bucket?
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I sold the same seats for that reason and the headrest hit me in the neck :homer:

But it was in my DD, I'd Just get used to it. I have the adjustable headrest version in my 81 and I like it a lot for wheelin. I used to feel beat up after a days wheeling in a stock seat, but even those cheap corbeaus don't do that. Even on our week or 2 long trips.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I sold the same seats for that reason and the headrest hit me in the neck :homer:

But it was in my DD, I'd Just get used to it. I have the adjustable headrest version in my 81 and I like it a lot for wheelin. I used to feel beat up after a days wheeling in a stock seat, but even those cheap corbeaus don't do that. Even on our week or 2 long trips.
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Agreed that they’re comfortable, if I had 6” to move them back I’d probably keep them.
But I don’t. I can maybe get them 1” lower if I rebuild the brackets, but no further back.

Looking for something with that same level of comfort after a day of wheeling and getting bounced around, but low sides.
 
fl0w3n said:
Agreed that they’re comfortable, if I had 6” to move them back I’d probably keep them.
But I don’t. I can maybe get them 1” lower if I rebuild the brackets, but no further back.

Looking for something with that same level of comfort after a day of wheeling and getting bounced around, but low sides.
Click to expand...

But no other seat will go further back either?
 
It’s the bolster height that’s the issue. Having to lift my ass up and over that makes it very awkward and tight.

I want to drop the seat bracket the 1”, get a quick disconnect steering wheel, and with a different seat it might be better to get in and out.

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Would an Atlas help your transfer case issues? I assume you're heading towards the Ecobox/205 route. I'm just wondering if having the transfer case in a more normal location would give you room to move a seat down. Maybe somehow cut the floor out and tie your seats into a crossmember and the sliders.
 
fl0w3n said:
It’s the bolster height that’s the issue. Having to lift my ass up and over that makes it very awkward and tight.
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You fat or what? :flipoff2:

fl0w3n said:
I want to drop the seat bracket the 1”, get a quick disconnect steering wheel, and with a different seat it might be better to get in and out.
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I had to kinda re learn how to get in. Although I also have boat sides, but I kinda get out like you would a buggy. Instead of sliding out like a regular truck, I grab the cage, somewhat stand up on the slider and get down from there.
 
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