- Thread starter
- #31
Just me being stubborn.
and worrying that steering will be the one area that can down the rig in a painful way on road trips.
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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
and worrying that steering will be the one area that can down the rig in a painful way on road trips.
Blase
Well-known member
Great build! Can't wait to see more progress. Keep up the good work.
67StingrayJ
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2022
- Member Number
- 5793
- Messages
- 158
Awesome build. 100% inspiring me to get off my butt.
What's it called when you have the shock mounted to the trailing arms like that?
What's it called when you have the shock mounted to the trailing arms like that?
- Thread starter
- #34
I always heard them refereed to as trailing arms in a rear application and leading arms in a front application.
It lowers that shaft speed of the shock and increases wheel travel while using a shorter shock.
It lowers that shaft speed of the shock and increases wheel travel while using a shorter shock.
- Thread starter
- #35
I guess I need to update this thread. I have been working on the Jeep a lot over the past few weeks. I wanted to have my tie rod / assist cylinder behind the front axle to help protect it. So I needed custom steer arms and.. to make them I wanted a cnc plasma. I built a small plasma table following JDsGarage plans.
Started cutting and building the arms. I was hoping for good ackerman angle and fit into the build.
I'm using 2010 Supoerduty knuckles machined by Busted Knuckle Offroad.
Started cutting and building the arms. I was hoping for good ackerman angle and fit into the build.
I'm using 2010 Supoerduty knuckles machined by Busted Knuckle Offroad.
Attachments
- Thread starter
- #37
At one point I installed the hood and grill to see how the panels would like up. To my surprise they were perfect .
Right about this time I received my shocks Fox 2.5" x 12" travel. The shock will clear the hood a full bump.
But unfortunately the tie rod contacted the chassis before the shocks would bottom out. I think I tacked on mounts and moved things around for several days before I decided to cut off the front of the chassis and raise it 1.5".
Now the hood is still happy but the rubber mounts at the edges of the grill got almost completely eliminated. Everything lines up so that's a big blessing. Engine was set in to see how an upper link would fit as some point.
Right about this time I received my shocks Fox 2.5" x 12" travel. The shock will clear the hood a full bump.
But unfortunately the tie rod contacted the chassis before the shocks would bottom out. I think I tacked on mounts and moved things around for several days before I decided to cut off the front of the chassis and raise it 1.5".
Now the hood is still happy but the rubber mounts at the edges of the grill got almost completely eliminated. Everything lines up so that's a big blessing. Engine was set in to see how an upper link would fit as some point.
- Thread starter
- #38
Right here is as it sits right now. There were a few compromises made.
Tack bar mount is as high as it can be while matching the drag link angle. Chassis side mount is barely squeezed between the box and coilover.
Track bar and drag link angle match but the track bar is 1" shorter. They could match perfect the steering box was inside the chassis rail or if I move the chassis mount out one more inch. I my do the latter if I have clearance.
79 Bronco steering box is going to live inside the grill shell with the headlight.
What hurts most is my steer arm dimensions result in a 7" stroke on the assist cylinder. I was planning to use an 8" stroke and wanted the cylinder to be part of the steering stops. I may redesign these. I wanted the cylinder and knuckles to all hit the stops simultaneously and new hit the limits of the steering box. The flip side to this is I would have faster steering lock to lock with a shorter stroke cylinder.
My thinking is the sector shaft will only see the max force of the steering pump pressure and to forces from the wheels, at full lock anyway.
Tack bar mount is as high as it can be while matching the drag link angle. Chassis side mount is barely squeezed between the box and coilover.
Track bar and drag link angle match but the track bar is 1" shorter. They could match perfect the steering box was inside the chassis rail or if I move the chassis mount out one more inch. I my do the latter if I have clearance.
79 Bronco steering box is going to live inside the grill shell with the headlight.
What hurts most is my steer arm dimensions result in a 7" stroke on the assist cylinder. I was planning to use an 8" stroke and wanted the cylinder to be part of the steering stops. I may redesign these. I wanted the cylinder and knuckles to all hit the stops simultaneously and new hit the limits of the steering box. The flip side to this is I would have faster steering lock to lock with a shorter stroke cylinder.
My thinking is the sector shaft will only see the max force of the steering pump pressure and to forces from the wheels, at full lock anyway.
NDCjeepsmith
Red Skull
Looking nice. Can you not throw a spacer in the ram to limit it to 7" so you still retain that as the steer stops?
- Thread starter
- #45
Absolutely, It just was disappointing to see it not measure 8" as planned. WAY better that being over for sure.
FLUX
@fluxoffroad
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- Sep 28, 2022
- Member Number
- 5584
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- 92
Very cool build! Building the frame opens up a ton of options for what goes where.Thinking something like this for front upper coilover mounts and rear trailing arms.
I have not built any trailing arms. Hopefully someone that has will chime in with numbers. From looking at this image the coilover mount looks a little close to the axle side.
What are your thoughts for bracing the coil over mount. Seems like if you angle the lines that are parallel to the shock you could run bracing behind it to the frame and box in the top portion.
- Thread starter
- #47
Yes my shock is mounted much closer to the axle than most trailing arms. Most are mounted in a .7-.8 ratio to the wheel travel.
If the shock was mounted in the middle of the arm it would be a .5 ratio.
I am limited to how far forward I put the upper mount. I still get the benefit of more that 12" of wheel travel from a 12" shock and still have room for the exhaust to the rear.
The front coilover mounts will have gussets on the inside and a brace over the engine between the two towers.
If the shock was mounted in the middle of the arm it would be a .5 ratio.
I am limited to how far forward I put the upper mount. I still get the benefit of more that 12" of wheel travel from a 12" shock and still have room for the exhaust to the rear.
The front coilover mounts will have gussets on the inside and a brace over the engine between the two towers.
Last edited:
WaterH
Well-known member
Nice work. I’ll be watching now.
pennsylvaniaboy
make fullsizes great again
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2020
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- 1,451
bump....
67StingrayJ
Well-known member
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- Nov 25, 2022
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What is your dimension here, and how did you decide?
What else do you have drawn in CAD thus far? You able to find a 3D of the LJ tub?
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
if your building this piece, i would say its your belly height and axle up travel
if i am saying that correct.
if i am saying that correct.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
or maybe not up travel as much as ride height with up travel to not hit frame. but i would estimate a good 7-9 inches
- Thread starter
- #53
8.5" from the bottom of the main rail to the bottom of the front rails, as you have drawn in the image.
I am very green at using Fusion and have not used any 3D features.
- Thread starter
- #54
I had originally designed trailing arms in the rear. The shocks are 12" and I could not get the up travel / low ride height I wanted without having to cut into the tub, which I am trying to avoid 100% if I can.
If I had ordered 10" shocks for the rear my life would have been easier but that is not the case.
2 steps forward 10 steps back.
Solution , Lay the shocks down horizontal and cantilever to the links. This does add complexity and a little more weight.
The result = not cutting the tub, low ride height and more wheel travel. Here goes nothing!
33 spline Corvette rear unit bearings, a couple of Dana 44 front hubs were sacrificed for the lockout end .
Cut / Weld / Drill / rinse and repeat.
This will allow me to use a sway bar between the D44 hubs and use the cantilever as "arms" connecting to the axle. Lockouts will give me the option to disable the rear sway bar if needed.
The shock to pivot is 90* at full bump so technically progressive but hopefully no a nightmare to tune the shocks.
I still have to move the link mounts on the axle to get things aligned and may use dom lower links to save some weight.
The unit bearing are flush mounted into the rail. I will be adding gussets to the top of the rail and lower gusset / bump stop mount on the underside.
If I had ordered 10" shocks for the rear my life would have been easier but that is not the case.
2 steps forward 10 steps back.
Solution , Lay the shocks down horizontal and cantilever to the links. This does add complexity and a little more weight.
The result = not cutting the tub, low ride height and more wheel travel. Here goes nothing!
33 spline Corvette rear unit bearings, a couple of Dana 44 front hubs were sacrificed for the lockout end .
Cut / Weld / Drill / rinse and repeat.
This will allow me to use a sway bar between the D44 hubs and use the cantilever as "arms" connecting to the axle. Lockouts will give me the option to disable the rear sway bar if needed.
The shock to pivot is 90* at full bump so technically progressive but hopefully no a nightmare to tune the shocks.
I still have to move the link mounts on the axle to get things aligned and may use dom lower links to save some weight.
The unit bearing are flush mounted into the rail. I will be adding gussets to the top of the rail and lower gusset / bump stop mount on the underside.
Ghetto Fab.
No idea what I'm doing
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 208
- Messages
- 1,167
What are you doing for brakes on the front? Your steering arm seems to exclude the use of standard SD parts. I like the tie rod behind the axle, my last jeep was like that.
- Thread starter
- #59
Planning to use 99-04 F250 rear calipers and rotors and all 4 corners. Just not all the way there yet with the brackets.
Blase
Well-known member
Any updates?
