CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
Looked at it.
It's current parked in the storage unit:
It's current parked in the storage unit:
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What did you do to your RV today?
- Thread starter CarterKraft
- Start date
Shitty picture, but my phone refused to flash. I followed Cartercraft’s lead to some extent and out my own pussy twist on it. I absolutely fucking hate scraping sealant off a roof, so I wasn’t man enough to go full cheap when I had to replace my exhaust fan. Instead, I did the cheapest Maxxfan, and wired in my own reversing switch. Hopefully that counts for something.
The other thing that didn’t get a pic is I put the awning LED strip on a halfway decent dimmer. I’ve always hated how bright it was, and with this dimmer it will go very dim. Remains to be seen whether it will strobe out every once in awhile like the ultra cheap dimmer I put on the last RV.
The other thing that didn’t get a pic is I put the awning LED strip on a halfway decent dimmer. I’ve always hated how bright it was, and with this dimmer it will go very dim. Remains to be seen whether it will strobe out every once in awhile like the ultra cheap dimmer I put on the last RV.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
My awning led went out and I put a new strip in there when I changed the fabric but for the life of me I can't get the fabric to roll up evenly. The wire in the front seam causes the fabric to at the motor to roll up before the fabric at the rear and when the front is tight the rear is flapping in the breeze...Shitty picture, but my phone refused to flash. I followed Cartercraft’s lead to some extent and out my own pussy twist on it. I absolutely fucking hate scraping sealant off a roof, so I wasn’t man enough to go full cheap when I had to replace my exhaust fan. Instead, I did the cheapest Maxxfan, and wired in my own reversing switch. Hopefully that counts for something.
The other thing that didn’t get a pic is I put the awning LED strip on a halfway decent dimmer. I’ve always hated how bright it was, and with this dimmer it will go very dim. Remains to be seen whether it will strobe out every once in awhile like the ultra cheap dimmer I put on the last RV.
Im gonna shit can the wire and strip to see if that helps. I'll put a 45* extrusion on the side of the RV under the awning if that was the problem. I really think I will get more use out of that anyway as it won't require the awning to be 100% out like it does now.
It's almost like the tube needs a twist in it...
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
Having a bed mattress and cardboard on camper's roof; I decided to prop up/support the roof from the inside with a wood pole.
BDK
Red Skull Member
I woke up in mine.
Sunset from a few days ago, looking east. Sun turned the clouds colors in all directions.
Sunset from a few days ago, looking east. Sun turned the clouds colors in all directions.
Provience
Kill!
took it out for a dustoff run over the weekend. Put 2 100w square solar panels from HQST on order, coach battery is only 2 years old but won't hold a charge for 24 hours. It was at 2.2v before we left, took a charge and seemed fine for a couple hours, now the next day it's down to 7.7volts.
Going to give the AGM thing a try, supposed to be more tolerant to discharge.
Need to go ahead and commit to buying a new d70 carrier and 5.13 gears, maybe tomorrow
did a whole bunch of reading on Ford460.net and such about things to do. Most common recommendation was to swap in a full exhaust setup.
Looking at the manifolds, there is a ton of room for options, i'd be surprised if there was difficulty getting any off the shelf headers to fit. The other issue in my head, those stock manifolds really aren't the worst i've ever seen and they dump into 2-1/2" already. I've got an early EFI motor with the small exhaust valves. Going to a later head is about the only easy head swap for retaining EFI on the cheap.
Getting rid of the 30 year old catalytic converter is probably about as much as i can actually do to improve exhaust flow in the near term. Later term, crower makes a 22903 camshaft 293H grind 112* lobe sep angle, 210* in/226* ex @0.050" lift, 0.510/0.536 valve lift with 1.73 rockers. That'd probably do well.
as for cleaning up things on the exhaust side, this here air pump just takes clean filtered air and pumps it directly into the catalytic converter. Wasteful bugger
another common thing I kept seeing mentioned was "remove intake silencer". seemed like one of them suspicious old wives tales, always said by the same bump up base timing 2* folks
well, looked at it and they made a believer out of me. Other than ford engineering trying to really choke this engine down into can't make enough to hurt itself territory, I don't understand this.
inlet narrows down to 3"x1" square, then gets reduced to a set of 1" diameter tubes, which all feeds the 1" tube for the air pump and the pair of 3" tubes for the intake manifold. I guess the thinking is that the 3" tubes are long enough (couple feet apiece) that they can handle whatever the throttle blade calls for in an instant
I dunno, seems like a needless area to stress the system.
somebody has previously attempted to remedy this with a drill
got out the saw and figured i'd try 1 better.
not sure if it will help, confident that it won't hurt anything.
goal is to take a couple weekends and see what all can get addressed
Going to give the AGM thing a try, supposed to be more tolerant to discharge.
Need to go ahead and commit to buying a new d70 carrier and 5.13 gears, maybe tomorrow
did a whole bunch of reading on Ford460.net and such about things to do. Most common recommendation was to swap in a full exhaust setup.
Looking at the manifolds, there is a ton of room for options, i'd be surprised if there was difficulty getting any off the shelf headers to fit. The other issue in my head, those stock manifolds really aren't the worst i've ever seen and they dump into 2-1/2" already. I've got an early EFI motor with the small exhaust valves. Going to a later head is about the only easy head swap for retaining EFI on the cheap.
Getting rid of the 30 year old catalytic converter is probably about as much as i can actually do to improve exhaust flow in the near term. Later term, crower makes a 22903 camshaft 293H grind 112* lobe sep angle, 210* in/226* ex @0.050" lift, 0.510/0.536 valve lift with 1.73 rockers. That'd probably do well.
as for cleaning up things on the exhaust side, this here air pump just takes clean filtered air and pumps it directly into the catalytic converter. Wasteful bugger
another common thing I kept seeing mentioned was "remove intake silencer". seemed like one of them suspicious old wives tales, always said by the same bump up base timing 2* folks
well, looked at it and they made a believer out of me. Other than ford engineering trying to really choke this engine down into can't make enough to hurt itself territory, I don't understand this.
inlet narrows down to 3"x1" square, then gets reduced to a set of 1" diameter tubes, which all feeds the 1" tube for the air pump and the pair of 3" tubes for the intake manifold. I guess the thinking is that the 3" tubes are long enough (couple feet apiece) that they can handle whatever the throttle blade calls for in an instant
I dunno, seems like a needless area to stress the system.somebody has previously attempted to remedy this with a drill
got out the saw and figured i'd try 1 better.
not sure if it will help, confident that it won't hurt anything.
goal is to take a couple weekends and see what all can get addressed
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
I never understood those old 460 intake setups...took it out for a dustoff run over the weekend. Put 2 100w square solar panels from HQST on order, coach battery is only 2 years old but won't hold a charge for 24 hours. It was at 2.2v before we left, took a charge and seemed fine for a couple hours, now the next day it's down to 7.7volts.
Going to give the AGM thing a try, supposed to be more tolerant to discharge.
Need to go ahead and commit to buying a new d70 carrier and 5.13 gears, maybe tomorrow
did a whole bunch of reading on Ford460.net and such about things to do. Most common recommendation was to swap in a full exhaust setup.
Looking at the manifolds, there is a ton of room for options, i'd be surprised if there was difficulty getting any off the shelf headers to fit. The other issue in my head, those stock manifolds really aren't the worst i've ever seen and they dump into 2-1/2" already. I've got an early EFI motor with the small exhaust valves. Going to a later head is about the only easy head swap for retaining EFI on the cheap.
Getting rid of the 30 year old catalytic converter is probably about as much as i can actually do to improve exhaust flow in the near term. Later term, crower makes a 22903 camshaft 293H grind 112* lobe sep angle, 210* in/226* ex @0.050" lift, 0.510/0.536 valve lift with 1.73 rockers. That'd probably do well.
as for cleaning up things on the exhaust side, this here air pump just takes clean filtered air and pumps it directly into the catalytic converter. Wasteful bugger
another common thing I kept seeing mentioned was "remove intake silencer". seemed like one of them suspicious old wives tales, always said by the same bump up base timing 2* folks
well, looked at it and they made a believer out of me. Other than ford engineering trying to really choke this engine down into can't make enough to hurt itself territory, I don't understand this.
inlet narrows down to 3"x1" square, then gets reduced to a set of 1" diameter tubes, which all feeds the 1" tube for the air pump and the pair of 3" tubes for the intake manifold. I guess the thinking is that the 3" tubes are long enough (couple feet apiece) that they can handle whatever the throttle blade calls for in an instant
somebody has previously attempted to remedy this with a drill
got out the saw and figured i'd try 1 better.
not sure if it will help, confident that it won't hurt anything.
goal is to take a couple weekends and see what all can get addressed
I don't see how what you are planning wouldn't make a 100% better driving experience.
I put long tube headers on a 7.3 idi at my first job. The owner said it was a remarkable difference from the stock 92 exhaust.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
took it out for a dustoff run over the weekend. Put 2 100w square solar panels from HQST on order, coach battery is only 2 years old but won't hold a charge for 24 hours. It was at 2.2v before we left, took a charge and seemed fine for a couple hours, now the next day it's down to 7.7volts.
Going to give the AGM thing a try, supposed to be more tolerant to discharge.
Need to go ahead and commit to buying a new d70 carrier and 5.13 gears, maybe tomorrow
did a whole bunch of reading on Ford460.net and such about things to do. Most common recommendation was to swap in a full exhaust setup.
Looking at the manifolds, there is a ton of room for options, i'd be surprised if there was difficulty getting any off the shelf headers to fit. The other issue in my head, those stock manifolds really aren't the worst i've ever seen and they dump into 2-1/2" already. I've got an early EFI motor with the small exhaust valves. Going to a later head is about the only easy head swap for retaining EFI on the cheap.
Getting rid of the 30 year old catalytic converter is probably about as much as i can actually do to improve exhaust flow in the near term. Later term, crower makes a 22903 camshaft 293H grind 112* lobe sep angle, 210* in/226* ex @0.050" lift, 0.510/0.536 valve lift with 1.73 rockers. That'd probably do well.
as for cleaning up things on the exhaust side, this here air pump just takes clean filtered air and pumps it directly into the catalytic converter. Wasteful bugger
another common thing I kept seeing mentioned was "remove intake silencer". seemed like one of them suspicious old wives tales, always said by the same bump up base timing 2* folks
well, looked at it and they made a believer out of me. Other than ford engineering trying to really choke this engine down into can't make enough to hurt itself territory, I don't understand this.
inlet narrows down to 3"x1" square, then gets reduced to a set of 1" diameter tubes, which all feeds the 1" tube for the air pump and the pair of 3" tubes for the intake manifold. I guess the thinking is that the 3" tubes are long enough (couple feet apiece) that they can handle whatever the throttle blade calls for in an instant
somebody has previously attempted to remedy this with a drill
got out the saw and figured i'd try 1 better.
not sure if it will help, confident that it won't hurt anything.
goal is to take a couple weekends and see what all can get addressed
Doug Thorley Tri-Y Ceramic Coated Headers 1988-1992 F250 F350 Class A BB 460 FI
Doug's D6614Y-6 Tri-Y Headers for 1996-1997 Ford F250 F350 460 2WD/4WD Ceramic Coated From your source for automotive high performance and restoration parts FCRC Machine
Provience
Kill!
Got some parts showing up, looks like 2 weeks from now and I'll have a chance to do some stuff.
SS trim plate to mount the victron controller, the old hole was a little too big.
Fill panels for where the head knocker TV used to reside.
It's not flat, flush or square. But neither is anything else in this bucket soooooooo, fuck it.
Fill panels for where the head knocker TV used to reside.
It's not flat, flush or square. But neither is anything else in this bucket soooooooo, fuck it.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Better than a big empty hole for sure!SS trim plate to mount the victron controller, the old hole was a little too big.
Fill panels for where the head knocker TV used to reside.
It's not flat, flush or square. But neither is anything else in this bucket soooooooo, fuck it.
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
I eliminated air intake and just let it inhale from the engine compartment:another common thing I kept seeing mentioned was "remove intake silencer". seemed like one of them suspicious old wives tales, always said by the same bump up base timing 2* folks
well, looked at it and they made a believer out of me. Other than ford engineering trying to really choke this engine down into can't make enough to hurt itself territory, I don't understand this.
inlet narrows down to 3"x1" square, then gets reduced to a set of 1" diameter tubes, which all feeds the 1" tube for the air pump and the pair of 3" tubes for the intake manifold. I guess the thinking is that the 3" tubes are long enough (couple feet apiece) that they can handle whatever the throttle blade calls for in an instant
somebody has previously attempted to remedy this with a drill
got out the saw and figured i'd try 1 better.
not sure if it will help, confident that it won't hurt anything.
goal is to take a couple weekends and see what all can get addressed
Clb
another toyota from P.R.K
So who has replaced the floor on a slider?
Brb
Brb
Provience
Kill!
Clb
another toyota from P.R.K
Sleeping loft over the pin???
Betting on the side walls being placed on top just to phawk you over.
Hopefully I'm wrong
Betting on the side walls being placed on top just to phawk you over.
Hopefully I'm wrong
Provience
Kill!
Started with the gear swap, honestly believed I would finish it the same day I started 
Couldn't get the pinion nut off, ended up slamming it via the tire.
and ended spending a bunch of time grinding enough space for the ABS tone ring into the carrier.
The blood looks less dramatic in this picture, cut my finger getting the shims out of the plastic didn't expect them to be triple wrapped 
None of my 1/8+ wall tubes would fit, used some 1/16" wall stuff and mangled it pretty good. Happy with myself that I only smashed my holding hand once with a hammer
At least now it is all prepped for test fitting and patterning.
Couldn't get the pinion nut off, ended up slamming it via the tire.
and ended spending a bunch of time grinding enough space for the ABS tone ring into the carrier.
The blood looks less dramatic in this picture, cut my finger getting the shims out of the plastic
didn't expect them to be triple wrapped None of my 1/8+ wall tubes would fit, used some 1/16" wall stuff and mangled it pretty good. Happy with myself that I only smashed my holding hand once with a hammer
At least now it is all prepped for test fitting and patterning.
Provience
Kill!
4.88 gears as done as they are going to get for now.
Went ahead and bought another used Primus IQ with mount and harness off eBay for $40 again. Once it shows up, i'll get that wired in so that I can have trailer brakes. Then it'll be time to see how the whole package does.
probably going to commute in the RV for the next couple days to get some heat cycles in there.
Hilariously, that short video a post up of using the tire to slam off the pinion nut somehow got picked up by the YouTube algorithm and has over 425,000 views over the past 2 weeks
Considering my average view is about 20 and most of those are me, it's pretty comical. It's also the reason why I'm going to
more videos of stuff in addition to just pictures 
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
4.88 gears as done as they are going to get for now.
Went ahead and bought another used Primus IQ with mount and harness off eBay for $40 again. Once it shows up, i'll get that wired in so that I can have trailer brakes. Then it'll be time to see how the whole package does.
probably going to commute in the RV for the next couple days to get some heat cycles in there.
Hilariously, that short video a post up of using the tire to slam off the pinion nut somehow got picked up by the YouTube algorithm and has over 425,000 views over the past 2 weeks
It's also the reason why I'm going to
Lightning in a bottle on those views huh
Provience
Kill!
It was fun while it lasted
Provience
Kill!
Well, damn.
Popped the diff cover off, put about 350 miles on it this week. More shiny than i expected to see to be honest, but no slivers or chunks and it doesnt make any noise that i can notice.
Setup the dial, grinder and welder. Worked my way around the tone ring. Firstly, the ring gear was 5thou out of round and the tone ring was 48 thou.
I was able to get the ring gear to 2 thou and with a long series of checking, hammering, grinding, welding, i got all the 120 teeth within 10. The incredible majority are within 5.
And it was almost good enough. Under 15mph, rock solid. No more ABS triggered dueing normal stops. More smooth up to 40mph, but over 45 its still haywire.
I dunno. Front brakes are starting to make noise and i want to see if i can fix the drivers seat. Unless it breaks, thats all the messing with the rear end ive got in me for today
Popped the diff cover off, put about 350 miles on it this week. More shiny than i expected to see to be honest, but no slivers or chunks and it doesnt make any noise that i can notice.
Setup the dial, grinder and welder. Worked my way around the tone ring. Firstly, the ring gear was 5thou out of round and the tone ring was 48 thou.
I was able to get the ring gear to 2 thou and with a long series of checking, hammering, grinding, welding, i got all the 120 teeth within 10. The incredible majority are within 5.
And it was almost good enough. Under 15mph, rock solid. No more ABS triggered dueing normal stops. More smooth up to 40mph, but over 45 its still haywire.
I dunno. Front brakes are starting to make noise and i want to see if i can fix the drivers seat. Unless it breaks, thats all the messing with the rear end ive got in me for today
Provience
Kill!
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
That oil is rough, maybe a wheel bearing?Well, damn.
Popped the diff cover off, put about 350 miles on it this week. More shiny than i expected to see to be honest, but no slivers or chunks and it doesnt make any noise that i can notice.
Setup the dial, grinder and welder. Worked my way around the tone ring. Firstly, the ring gear was 5thou out of round and the tone ring was 48 thou.
I was able to get the ring gear to 2 thou and with a long series of checking, hammering, grinding, welding, i got all the 120 teeth within 10. The incredible majority are within 5.
And it was almost good enough. Under 15mph, rock solid. No more ABS triggered dueing normal stops. More smooth up to 40mph, but over 45 its still haywire.
I dunno. Front brakes are starting to make noise and i want to see if i can fix the drivers seat. Unless it breaks, thats all the messing with the rear end ive got in me for today
white-rhino
Older than dirt
Chiming in - just cuz. We sold our 5th wheel and went back to a class A motorhome. 2017 Tiffin diesel pusher. Also sold our 2 door JK and bought a new JLUR.
Big addition is tow bar plate and wiring so we can flat tow the Rubi.
No great pics but we did a trial run to our rec property. Very happy with the change.
Big addition is tow bar plate and wiring so we can flat tow the Rubi.
No great pics but we did a trial run to our rec property. Very happy with the change.
Provience
Kill!
It was surprising. I'm not sure how or why it doesn't make any noise, wheel bearings (outer anyway) all look fine.
I'm >< close to taking it our again, not sure if I should drive a few more days and see or just have at it tomorrow/monday
I need to see why the brakes are noisy, the gears might survive the year. Kind of depends on how it all times out.
Took my driver's seat apart, it's been stuck full forward on the back forever and the seat cushion feels like a hole.
The one different one was the rearmost, I stretched it back out some and moved it up to the front and put the most stiffest in the back
The wore down the middle also wasn't connected to all 4, it was just the paper shell to the front one. So moved that and put it across to them all. It's, at an angle for real important reasons, or something
Dorman choke cable was the cheapest cable I could find. Bicycle cable probably would've been smoother but isn't as handy to find.
And its pretty phenomenal to have a seat that can be adjusted and doesn't feel like I'm sinking into.
So one thing worked out anyways
Provience
Kill!
Everything we see a tiffin the wife says "there goes my motorhome"
Congrats, that sounds like a real nice setup
how long of a class a did you end up with?
white-rhino
Older than dirt
Allegro RED 33aa. Our previous MH was a Tiffin also but a gasser, Allegro Open Road 34TGA. Both are about 35'. We went about the shortest you can get in a decent pusher. Anything shorter drops in towing capacity. This one has the Cummins 360 hp and 3000 transmission, so 10,000 pounds towing capacity, since I will be towing more than that at times.Everything we see a tiffin the wife says "there goes my motorhome"
Congrats, that sounds like a real nice setup
I was surprised how much LESS storage the DP has than the gasser. That was a disappointment, but I will get by. The RED was also one of the only shorter rigs that has a King bed.
RE length, we looked at a lot of really nice motorhomes. We couldn't find anything that compared in this length. Fleetwood makes a Discovery but nothing shorter than 37'. We also have a criteria that ruled out the Discovery. (sidebar long story here) Back in 2017 we sold our gasser Tiffin and bought a DRV Mobile Suites 5th wheel. (super luxurious) We were convinced we wanted to go 5'er back then. We hit some bad roads (days away from home) and our bedroom/bathroom slide faulted out. It took me a couple hours to figure out how to get it to work. We could not access our bathroom, bedroom or closet space AT ALL with the slide in. This made us aware that for any RV we ever purchase, it must have access to the bed, bathroom, fridge and "some" closet and food storage with all slides in. We didn't want to be on the other side of the country and have our vacation ruined. Back to the Discovery, it's bed folds up when the bedroom slide is in, forcing you to sleep across the bed.
I have ordered a 32' aluminum trailer that will allow me to haul both my JL and compact tractor at the same time. Anxiously awaiting its arrival.
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Provience
Kill!
That's awesome that's pretty much the hot ticket one right there, glad you are enjoying it.
that's pretty much the hot ticket one right there, glad you are enjoying it.
Provience
Kill!
Here you can see the 5 or 6 pin located behind the bumper, currently being used with a 4 pin adapter for the tow bar and such, at the bottom of the image you can see the old 5 or 6 pin located under the bumper and all bent up
Picked up a Hopkins 1200484074 Endurance 7 & 4 pin connector. This is probably my favorite one, beings that it is sold without pigtails, it eliminates 1 whole connector, which is nice. The 30' run for the brake controller signal and my inability to pay new wire prices means I used 2x 14 gauge for 11 gauge effective on the blue line.
It may be a 7 pin, but I only use 5. no reverse lights and no aux 12v to the trailer.
2-1/4" hole saw would've been nice, a 2" got it close enough and a drum sander on the drill took it the rest of the way. hacked into my long bent bumper to mount it up high and hopefully avoid damage
and mounted and wired + and - direct to the battery, since it's just right there. Used an inline ATC fuse holder currently with a 30 amp fuse.
Ordered up a Bussman 20 amp self resetting circuit breaker, type I ATC normal fuse footprint to swap with the fuse.
amazon Bussman CB221-20
So far i'm 3 for 3 on use ebay primus IQ brake controllers for ~$40 and being in working order with mounts and harness pigtails Keeping everything the same makes it easy in my head if 1 dies.
finally got around to swapping out the coach battery as well. The old battery is only 3 years old, but it's been dead for probably the last year. Not sure if freezing or high heat or what all killed it. It's been ran flat a few times as well. It's a tough life being a single battery when the coach doesn't get used all the time I'd left it on the 100w solar panel when I was gone for the year, came back and it hadn't survived, but the wife had moved the panel to where it was only getting an hour or two at best of light
Going with a Renogy AGM 100AH battery. Same size as the SLA it's replaced but should be more tolerant to deeper discharge. Also going up to 200w in solar. Never did get around to installing the nice charge/controller.
Spent a bunch of money for next weekend. Going to do everything related to the front brakes next weekend and went ahead and ordered a new ABS tone ring. $35 on sale, new, from ebay is worth it for me to not have to sit there and try to rebuild all those teeth. I'll toss that guy on and do some gentle reshaping to get it all within 0.004" roundness if need be.
and that'll pretty much run me out of time then it'll be load it up and see how it does for 4,000 miles and a month
Picked up a Hopkins 1200484074 Endurance 7 & 4 pin connector. This is probably my favorite one, beings that it is sold without pigtails, it eliminates 1 whole connector, which is nice. The 30' run for the brake controller signal and my inability to pay new wire prices means I used 2x 14 gauge for 11 gauge effective on the blue line.
It may be a 7 pin, but I only use 5. no reverse lights and no aux 12v to the trailer.
2-1/4" hole saw would've been nice, a 2" got it close enough and a drum sander on the drill took it the rest of the way. hacked into my long bent bumper to mount it up high and hopefully avoid damage
and mounted and wired + and - direct to the battery, since it's just right there. Used an inline ATC fuse holder currently with a 30 amp fuse.
Ordered up a Bussman 20 amp self resetting circuit breaker, type I ATC normal fuse footprint to swap with the fuse.
amazon Bussman CB221-20
So far i'm 3 for 3 on use ebay primus IQ brake controllers for ~$40 and being in working order with mounts and harness pigtails
Keeping everything the same makes it easy in my head if 1 dies.finally got around to swapping out the coach battery as well. The old battery is only 3 years old, but it's been dead for probably the last year. Not sure if freezing or high heat or what all killed it. It's been ran flat a few times as well. It's a tough life being a single battery when the coach doesn't get used all the time
I'd left it on the 100w solar panel when I was gone for the year, came back and it hadn't survived, but the wife had moved the panel to where it was only getting an hour or two at best of light Going with a Renogy AGM 100AH battery. Same size as the SLA it's replaced but should be more tolerant to deeper discharge. Also going up to 200w in solar. Never did get around to installing the nice charge/controller.
Spent a bunch of money for next weekend. Going to do everything related to the front brakes next weekend and went ahead and ordered a new ABS tone ring. $35 on sale, new, from ebay is worth it for me to not have to sit there and try to rebuild all those teeth. I'll toss that guy on and do some gentle reshaping to get it all within 0.004" roundness if need be.
and that'll pretty much run me out of time
then it'll be load it up and see how it does for 4,000 miles and a month 
Captain Call
No
I just got home from 3,500mi in 10 days with the toy hauler...so, I am putting screws, bolts and other misc shit back that came undone in our travels.
Oh, and a tire let go...in my driveway 10min after we got home.
Oh, and a tire let go...in my driveway 10min after we got home.