What's new

What did you do to your RV today?

Looked at it.

It's current parked in the storage unit:
1698427065592.png
 
Shitty picture, but my phone refused to flash. I followed Cartercraft’s lead to some extent and out my own pussy twist on it. I absolutely fucking hate scraping sealant off a roof, so I wasn’t man enough to go full cheap when I had to replace my exhaust fan. Instead, I did the cheapest Maxxfan, and wired in my own reversing switch. Hopefully that counts for something.

The other thing that didn’t get a pic is I put the awning LED strip on a halfway decent dimmer. I’ve always hated how bright it was, and with this dimmer it will go very dim. Remains to be seen whether it will strobe out every once in awhile like the ultra cheap dimmer I put on the last RV.

IMG_7568.jpeg
 
Shitty picture, but my phone refused to flash. I followed Cartercraft’s lead to some extent and out my own pussy twist on it. I absolutely fucking hate scraping sealant off a roof, so I wasn’t man enough to go full cheap when I had to replace my exhaust fan. Instead, I did the cheapest Maxxfan, and wired in my own reversing switch. Hopefully that counts for something.

The other thing that didn’t get a pic is I put the awning LED strip on a halfway decent dimmer. I’ve always hated how bright it was, and with this dimmer it will go very dim. Remains to be seen whether it will strobe out every once in awhile like the ultra cheap dimmer I put on the last RV.

IMG_7568.jpeg
My awning led went out and I put a new strip in there when I changed the fabric but for the life of me I can't get the fabric to roll up evenly. The wire in the front seam causes the fabric to at the motor to roll up before the fabric at the rear and when the front is tight the rear is flapping in the breeze...

Im gonna shit can the wire and strip to see if that helps. I'll put a 45* extrusion on the side of the RV under the awning if that was the problem. I really think I will get more use out of that anyway as it won't require the awning to be 100% out like it does now.

It's almost like the tube needs a twist in it...
 
I dumped the tanks from the last renter and flushed them for the next renter.
Mine is the one on the left in the pic, and yes its crooked since I wanted all the stuff out of the tanks...
 

Attachments

  • 2023-11-02 17.41.51.jpg
    2023-11-02 17.41.51.jpg
    7.9 MB · Views: 5
took it out for a dustoff run over the weekend. Put 2 100w square solar panels from HQST on order, coach battery is only 2 years old but won't hold a charge for 24 hours. It was at 2.2v before we left, took a charge and seemed fine for a couple hours, now the next day it's down to 7.7volts.

Going to give the AGM thing a try, supposed to be more tolerant to discharge.

Need to go ahead and commit to buying a new d70 carrier and 5.13 gears, maybe tomorrow

did a whole bunch of reading on Ford460.net and such about things to do. Most common recommendation was to swap in a full exhaust setup.

20240401_121520.jpg


20240401_121815.jpg


20240401_130853.jpg


Looking at the manifolds, there is a ton of room for options, i'd be surprised if there was difficulty getting any off the shelf headers to fit. The other issue in my head, those stock manifolds really aren't the worst i've ever seen and they dump into 2-1/2" already. I've got an early EFI motor with the small exhaust valves. Going to a later head is about the only easy head swap for retaining EFI on the cheap.

Getting rid of the 30 year old catalytic converter is probably about as much as i can actually do to improve exhaust flow in the near term. Later term, crower makes a 22903 camshaft 293H grind 112* lobe sep angle, 210* in/226* ex @0.050" lift, 0.510/0.536 valve lift with 1.73 rockers. That'd probably do well.

as for cleaning up things on the exhaust side, this here air pump just takes clean filtered air and pumps it directly into the catalytic converter. Wasteful bugger

20240401_130928.jpg


another common thing I kept seeing mentioned was "remove intake silencer". seemed like one of them suspicious old wives tales, always said by the same bump up base timing 2* folks

well, looked at it and they made a believer out of me. Other than ford engineering trying to really choke this engine down into can't make enough to hurt itself territory, I don't understand this.

20240401_131300.jpg


20240401_131239.jpg


20240401_131321.jpg


inlet narrows down to 3"x1" square, then gets reduced to a set of 1" diameter tubes, which all feeds the 1" tube for the air pump and the pair of 3" tubes for the intake manifold. I guess the thinking is that the 3" tubes are long enough (couple feet apiece) that they can handle whatever the throttle blade calls for in an instant :confused: I dunno, seems like a needless area to stress the system.

somebody has previously attempted to remedy this with a drill :laughing:

20240401_132314.jpg


got out the saw and figured i'd try 1 better.

20240401_134154.jpg


not sure if it will help, confident that it won't hurt anything.

goal is to take a couple weekends and see what all can get addressed :smokin:
 
took it out for a dustoff run over the weekend. Put 2 100w square solar panels from HQST on order, coach battery is only 2 years old but won't hold a charge for 24 hours. It was at 2.2v before we left, took a charge and seemed fine for a couple hours, now the next day it's down to 7.7volts.

Going to give the AGM thing a try, supposed to be more tolerant to discharge.

Need to go ahead and commit to buying a new d70 carrier and 5.13 gears, maybe tomorrow

did a whole bunch of reading on Ford460.net and such about things to do. Most common recommendation was to swap in a full exhaust setup.

20240401_121520.jpg


20240401_121815.jpg


20240401_130853.jpg


Looking at the manifolds, there is a ton of room for options, i'd be surprised if there was difficulty getting any off the shelf headers to fit. The other issue in my head, those stock manifolds really aren't the worst i've ever seen and they dump into 2-1/2" already. I've got an early EFI motor with the small exhaust valves. Going to a later head is about the only easy head swap for retaining EFI on the cheap.

Getting rid of the 30 year old catalytic converter is probably about as much as i can actually do to improve exhaust flow in the near term. Later term, crower makes a 22903 camshaft 293H grind 112* lobe sep angle, 210* in/226* ex @0.050" lift, 0.510/0.536 valve lift with 1.73 rockers. That'd probably do well.

as for cleaning up things on the exhaust side, this here air pump just takes clean filtered air and pumps it directly into the catalytic converter. Wasteful bugger

20240401_130928.jpg


another common thing I kept seeing mentioned was "remove intake silencer". seemed like one of them suspicious old wives tales, always said by the same bump up base timing 2* folks

well, looked at it and they made a believer out of me. Other than ford engineering trying to really choke this engine down into can't make enough to hurt itself territory, I don't understand this.

20240401_131300.jpg


20240401_131239.jpg


20240401_131321.jpg


inlet narrows down to 3"x1" square, then gets reduced to a set of 1" diameter tubes, which all feeds the 1" tube for the air pump and the pair of 3" tubes for the intake manifold. I guess the thinking is that the 3" tubes are long enough (couple feet apiece) that they can handle whatever the throttle blade calls for in an instant :confused: I dunno, seems like a needless area to stress the system.

somebody has previously attempted to remedy this with a drill :laughing:

20240401_132314.jpg


got out the saw and figured i'd try 1 better.

20240401_134154.jpg


not sure if it will help, confident that it won't hurt anything.

goal is to take a couple weekends and see what all can get addressed :smokin:
I never understood those old 460 intake setups...

I don't see how what you are planning wouldn't make a 100% better driving experience.

I put long tube headers on a 7.3 idi at my first job. The owner said it was a remarkable difference from the stock 92 exhaust.
 
took it out for a dustoff run over the weekend. Put 2 100w square solar panels from HQST on order, coach battery is only 2 years old but won't hold a charge for 24 hours. It was at 2.2v before we left, took a charge and seemed fine for a couple hours, now the next day it's down to 7.7volts.

Going to give the AGM thing a try, supposed to be more tolerant to discharge.

Need to go ahead and commit to buying a new d70 carrier and 5.13 gears, maybe tomorrow

did a whole bunch of reading on Ford460.net and such about things to do. Most common recommendation was to swap in a full exhaust setup.

20240401_121520.jpg


20240401_121815.jpg


20240401_130853.jpg


Looking at the manifolds, there is a ton of room for options, i'd be surprised if there was difficulty getting any off the shelf headers to fit. The other issue in my head, those stock manifolds really aren't the worst i've ever seen and they dump into 2-1/2" already. I've got an early EFI motor with the small exhaust valves. Going to a later head is about the only easy head swap for retaining EFI on the cheap.

Getting rid of the 30 year old catalytic converter is probably about as much as i can actually do to improve exhaust flow in the near term. Later term, crower makes a 22903 camshaft 293H grind 112* lobe sep angle, 210* in/226* ex @0.050" lift, 0.510/0.536 valve lift with 1.73 rockers. That'd probably do well.

as for cleaning up things on the exhaust side, this here air pump just takes clean filtered air and pumps it directly into the catalytic converter. Wasteful bugger

20240401_130928.jpg


another common thing I kept seeing mentioned was "remove intake silencer". seemed like one of them suspicious old wives tales, always said by the same bump up base timing 2* folks

well, looked at it and they made a believer out of me. Other than ford engineering trying to really choke this engine down into can't make enough to hurt itself territory, I don't understand this.

20240401_131300.jpg


20240401_131239.jpg


20240401_131321.jpg


inlet narrows down to 3"x1" square, then gets reduced to a set of 1" diameter tubes, which all feeds the 1" tube for the air pump and the pair of 3" tubes for the intake manifold. I guess the thinking is that the 3" tubes are long enough (couple feet apiece) that they can handle whatever the throttle blade calls for in an instant :confused: I dunno, seems like a needless area to stress the system.

somebody has previously attempted to remedy this with a drill :laughing:

20240401_132314.jpg


got out the saw and figured i'd try 1 better.

20240401_134154.jpg


not sure if it will help, confident that it won't hurt anything.

goal is to take a couple weekends and see what all can get addressed :smokin:
 
SS trim plate to mount the victron controller, the old hole was a little too big.

20240406_145730.jpg


Fill panels for where the head knocker TV used to reside.

20240406_151546.jpg


It's not flat, flush or square. But neither is anything else in this bucket soooooooo, fuck it.
 
SS trim plate to mount the victron controller, the old hole was a little too big.

20240406_145730.jpg


Fill panels for where the head knocker TV used to reside.

20240406_151546.jpg


It's not flat, flush or square. But neither is anything else in this bucket soooooooo, fuck it.
Better than a big empty hole for sure!
 
another common thing I kept seeing mentioned was "remove intake silencer". seemed like one of them suspicious old wives tales, always said by the same bump up base timing 2* folks

well, looked at it and they made a believer out of me. Other than ford engineering trying to really choke this engine down into can't make enough to hurt itself territory, I don't understand this.

20240401_131300.jpg


20240401_131239.jpg


20240401_131321.jpg


inlet narrows down to 3"x1" square, then gets reduced to a set of 1" diameter tubes, which all feeds the 1" tube for the air pump and the pair of 3" tubes for the intake manifold. I guess the thinking is that the 3" tubes are long enough (couple feet apiece) that they can handle whatever the throttle blade calls for in an instant :confused: I dunno, seems like a needless area to stress the system.

somebody has previously attempted to remedy this with a drill :laughing:

20240401_132314.jpg


got out the saw and figured i'd try 1 better.

20240401_134154.jpg


not sure if it will help, confident that it won't hurt anything.

goal is to take a couple weekends and see what all can get addressed :smokin:
I eliminated air intake and just let it inhale from the engine compartment:
1000002230.jpg

1000002229.jpg
 
Sleeping loft over the pin???:frown:
Betting on the side walls being placed on top just to phawk you over.
Hopefully I'm wrong:eek:
 
Started with the gear swap, honestly believed I would finish it the same day I started :lmao:

Couldn't get the pinion nut off, ended up slamming it via the tire.



and ended spending a bunch of time grinding enough space for the ABS tone ring into the carrier.



The blood looks less dramatic in this picture, cut my finger getting the shims out of the plastic :laughing: didn't expect them to be triple wrapped :shaking:

20240505_151044.jpg


None of my 1/8+ wall tubes would fit, used some 1/16" wall stuff and mangled it pretty good. Happy with myself that I only smashed my holding hand once with a hammer :laughing:

20240505_150143.jpg


At least now it is all prepped for test fitting and patterning.
 
Top Back Refresh