What's new

"Tiny" - A Semi Project

snivilous

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 14, 2020
Member Number
2003
Messages
344
Loc
Southern UT
Time for a new build thread--- this is "Tiny", my recently acquired 2005 Volvo VNL!

PXL_20240120_182817732.jpg


I know literally nothing about semis, and next to nothing about diesels, and have never owned a diesel and only been in a semi once before buying this hahahaha.

But this bad boy was $9k, which ended up at $10k including some super singles, so we'll see what happens! Cheap is good and bad, but it mechanically seems good and while not perfect, seems adequate enough to be a good deal.

I tried to write a short paragraph justifying this instead of a one ton, but I end up just rambling. So to keep this short-ish, what will I do with this:

-Haul the buggy, can am, or whatever vehicle on the back. No trailer, it'll do 80mph and get better mileage than I'm used to, and I feel like will just be a fun and relatively simple package. Pull up, strap down, take off. Plus sleeping quarters integrated and tons of storage.

-Gooseneck and normal receiver. I can tow a trailer plus something on the back of the semi itself. I could put a camper on the back plus a trailer. I could do whatever trailer I want. Plus sleeping quarters and tons of storage while driving.

-250gal of fuel, I can fuel up once at the cheapest place and never again on a trip to help offset the fuel mileage.

-it got 8.5mpg going through the mountains in bobtail form at 80mph, my Tundra gets that or worse if you put any load behind it. So from that perspective it's actually good mileage.

-It cost <20% of the one tons I was looking at and that my friend's own. There's 40k of savings or fuel or whatever compared to even a used 5 year old one ton.

Maybe this will backfire, but I'm hoping it'll be reliable with some good maintenance and the relatively low miles and essentially no load it'll see. For how cheap it was, it's worth the experiment. I have a Tundra for normal truck bed duties. Tundra will take a break from working hard towing stuff, and this wont even know there's a load regardless how much shit I put behind it.

Anyways, I picked it up from Boise a couple weeks ago. Found it on KSL, flew up a few days later with my neighbor who's a diesel mechanic, and drove it down that night.

PXL_20240120_023401132.jpg


Also, the fact I live in Utah makes this purchase make a lot more sense. Utah is completely setup for large vehicles with trailers and power sports. The exit to the interstate near me has multiple trucks stops right there. Sand Hollow has a huge parking lot the semi can get into. If I lived where my parents do in Colorado that alone would make this a non-purchase.

My neighbor drove us out of Boise, then I got a quick parking lot lesson, and then I drove most of the way home to Southern Utah. I've gotten a lot better just in the handful of drives since then.

PXL_20240120_055847191.jpg


PXL_20240121_201537434.jpg


PXL_20240121_201541382.jpg


It's a D12 Volvo 12.1L diesel with an Eaton 10 speed manual. The chassis has 1.8mil on it, the engine apparently has 400k on it and the trans apparently feels tight (according to my neighbor) and there's a tag from some rebuild place so I suspect the trans was swapped when the engine was rebuilt. It runs like an absolute champ and shifts great! Couple rust spots, but even after crawling around it today it's mostly surface rust. Frame next to the turbo and exhaust has the most rust but it's mostly just the paint peeled off. For being 19 years old, 1.8mil, and being from Idaho I think it's in pretty good shape.

I pulled it into the shop today for the first time.

PXL_20240210_185648882.jpg


It's already registered. Utah you just tell them it's a motorhome and that's the end of that. No special license, no paperwork, nothing really. Since it's a triple axle I think it needs a safety inspection annually, if I deleted an axle it wouldn't fall into that classification and then wouldn't need any inspection I believe.... Regardless, it needed the cab bags and the hazard switch replaced and then passed the inspection.

PXL_20240210_215227075.jpg


I'm going to replace all... 5 or 6 filters, do the oil and probably the diffs. I fixed an air leak under the hood. Just do some normal maintenance before using it. There's no BIG oil leaks, though crawling under it I did find some minor ones, like the oil filler tube needs a new gasket.

PXL_20240210_220923225.jpg


My plan is to pull the 5th wheel plate. I don't really think I'll get a huge 5th wheel or semi trailer, and my friend told me you can get 5th wheel adapters for a gooseneck ball so the gooseneck ball would be dual purpose if I did want a 5th wheel plate. And I won't throw the plate away so if I do decide I need it I can throw it back on. With the plate pulled I'm going to make a flat bed that will bolt on and have tie downs. While the buggy could clear the plate fine, I want to be able to haul lower vehicles potentially as well as place the cab over on the back, so having a fully flat area will be easiest.

PXL_20240210_215302694.jpg


And then I'll have a cover or something so I can attach a gooseneck. And have a normal receiver in the back for small trailers. At this point though, the main thing is get the flat bed set up and then the hitch receiver.

And lastly, today we removed the previous stickers, added the plates, wife has been going ham cleaning the inside, and I've been getting as many of the 5th wheel plate bolts loose as my tiny 1/2" impact can do but I think I'll be buying a 1" impact.

PXL_20240211_002103722.jpg


That was a lot longer post than I wanted. As said, I know nothing about this, so just going to do basic maintenance and start tweaking it to do what I want. Should be a fun tow/haul rig and a cool experiment, we'll see how well a $10k Volvo does! Hopefully it'll live a nice easy life and be reliable! If not, well it was cheap and this is purely a toy to haul other toys.
 
Last edited:
You are going to like the semi. I have had good luck with mine. It will haul anything you put behind it effortlessly
Pictures?!

I'm heavily debating deleting the forward axle. Though I'd need to lengthen the driveshaft, But I like the idea of the simplicity of one axle and half as many tires. Plus I'd have spare tires then.
 
Last edited:
What I have noticed making a few cross country trips in my truck is once on the interstate it’s great. Getting around town a pickup is a lot easier. On the open road I’ll take the semi over my pickup any day. Fuel mileage is about a wash I get 7-8 in both my pickup towing and the semi. For the money there is no better way to tow junk around.
 
Lol exactly what I first thought. For what he will use this truck for these Volvos are actually pretty comfortable in the interior and we’re pretty modernish

You’ll have no issue singling the rear end out but I would prefer dual wheels on a single axle tractor, if you have a blow out you can still limp around and I prefer duals in snow.

If you take those glad hands off and stretch the air lines to the rear pintle hitch you’ll be able to pull heavy bumper pull trailers with air brakes should you ever need to move equipment or what not.
 
Thoughts on decking material? I don't know if I should do some fancy 2x12s or aluminum and dimple die it.

Aluminum seems like it'd hold up better, especially against oil and shit dripping. But I'd have to cut it into strips to fit in the press to dimple die it, and it'd be considerably more expensive.

I originally wanted to do some decking/tread plate, but that stuff is insanely expensive and I'd have to buy like 8x pieces to cover the bed. And throwing a couple big dimple dies on aluminum wouldn't be too bad.


I don't know.... All of this will lay on a steel frame that will bolt to the trucks frame.
 
The bed on my truck is framed out of 4” C channel and skinned with 1/4” plate. It’s nothing fancy but functional. The bed was on my truck when I bought it. I want to make a few changes to better suite me but it works.
 
I enjoyed your thinking/justification of buying this truck vs a new-ish one ton. I'd say most people have gone down that exact rabbit hole over the years. I know I'd fall into the category of the right truck for the right job, theoretically anyway.
 
In for the build thread. Always wanted to do this and had a BMY 5 ton 6x6 for a while for just this purpose. But the 8.3 cummins was so detuned and the cab was so uncomfortable it was terrible. I ended up finding our pusher bus for a steal, so I ended up with that. The wife is way happier.
 
I'm heavily debating deleting the forward axle. Though I'd need to lengthen the driveshaft, But I like the idea of the simplicity of one axle and half as many tires. Plus I'd have spare tires then.
I semi-frequently drive some similarly equipped straight box trucks with either a single axle or tandem. I have to say that unloaded the tandems handle the bumps a lot better. Overall, I just like the feel of them on the road a lot more than the single axle versions.
 
One thing to keep in mind, we had a three axle Pete we used to pull an end dump. We put a water tank in it and the brakes were terrible. Sketchy terrible.

Lots of trucks have restrictions on the air brakes so when you’re empty you don’t have too much brake. Release the trailer brakes and the truck is back to normal. But without a trailer they are awful.
 
I semi-frequently drive some similarly equipped straight box trucks with either a single axle or tandem. I have to say that unloaded the tandems handle the bumps a lot better. Overall, I just like the feel of them on the road a lot more than the single axle versions.

That's good to know. I've only had one person so far actually like the idea of pulling an axle, everyone else says to keep the tandems so for now I'll do that.

One thing to keep in mind, we had a three axle Pete we used to pull an end dump. We put a water tank in it and the brakes were terrible. Sketchy terrible.

Lots of trucks have restrictions on the air brakes so when you’re empty you don’t have too much brake. Release the trailer brakes and the truck is back to normal. But without a trailer they are awful.

Good thing you bring that up actually! I have the complete opposite problem, the brakes are crazy sensitive. If I had to emergency brake, there's no way I wouldn't lock the rears up since it takes a lot of finesse to be remotely smooth with them and there's like a quarter inch of motion between nothing and everything. Do you know if there's a way to reduce the braking power, like add the restrictor you mentioned? My friend didn't think there was a way to do that, but it'd certainly help the drivability. I guess I could increase the brake pedal ratio to have more control but that sounds like a pain.
 
Alright this is what I threw together that I'm gonna start with.

2x6 around the perimeter, then 2x4 in the middle. This will keep the planks sitting a half inch below the edge so there will be a slight lip all around. Some flat bar will bolt down to hold the planks. I'll weld some angle iron to the truck frame to give spots to bolt to (in addition to where the 5th wheel plate already bolts to) and then some angle iron (and maybe some other custom brackets) on the bottom of the deck to bolt to the truck frame.

1707844784107.png


1707844806167.png



2x12 planks. The cab and tires are 8ft wide so the deck will be the same. The deck will just mount flat to the frame, which appears to be the exact level the tires sit at with the air out of the bags, and worst case I can add a spacer under the deck if I need more tire clearance.

I'll start here. Things I'm thinking or planning to add:

-D rings everywhere. Probably just go to Harbor Freight and buy a bunch and weld them all over. I think I'll cut some planks so I can have two or three at mid span on the deck above a couple of the cross beams so I can run straps straight over tires.

-Angle iron/flat bar protruding off the sides. Seems like you always inevitably need to strap to the side in some weird spot, so a lip for straps to grab onto.

-Side marker lights might be neat, was even thinking could add some rock lights onto the deck itself to shine up but that might be kind of pointless and result in just blinding myself (I plan to add a rear facing lightbar to light up the deck anyways)

-I'm not sure where to mount ramps. The complexity of sliding them under the deck isn't worth it imo. One thought I had was I could have some cool hooks mounted straight off the back of the frame and the ramp just hangs on those and they would latch shut. Since the ramps won't be very thick, that shouldn't interfere with a bumper pull either.

-The rear will get a piece of angle iron or flat bar for the ramps to bite onto, that's how my trailer is setup and I want the ramps to be cross compatible.


I think I'll start here. I decided to go with the wood for a couple reasons. Besides being cheap, wood generally has good traction so I wouldn't have to add stuff like a metal deck to keep it grippy. The planks can be easily swapped out, and in general removed to access stuff for maintenance. And overall it's a very simple design and a core section of 4" tall with 6" perimeter tubes will end up as a strong and simple frame and give a bit of a lip with the planks, which be simple and straightforward. And if I want to swap it for a metal deck, well I'll have a solid foundation and absolute worst case it'll bolt to the truck so nothing is permanent.
 
Yes they make restrictors for the brakes. Im sure a store like Fleetpride could help find one, although sometimes the guy at my local store is no better then a 16yr/old working at pep boys. Our pete had a 40% restrictor in the front which i removed as its set up more like a box truck and its much beter now. If u go with a single rear axle its still important to have trailer brakes. There is a special air over electric controler that u need as the inertia units dont no well in a large truck.
 
Slowly making progress. I ended up cutting all the fifth wheel plate bolts off, what a pain that was. Two of them I couldn't remove even after cutting the head off and getting the nut off. After that, of course the forklift decided it didn't want to run. Fucked with that today mostly, but finally at the end it fired up (and hopefully is semi permanently fixed now) so I was able to lift the plate off.

PXL_20240214_032447568.jpg


Had to play musical chairs with all the shit in the shop. Should've cleaned up and organized a bit more before stuffing so many vehicles in here before pulling the semi in.

PXL_20240214_032453324.jpg


The fifth wheel plate had some gnarly rust going on. All this rust seems to be from the plate since there's a definite and obvious transition where the frame metal is.

PXL_20240214_032459875.jpg


PXL_20240214_033620755.jpg


We've found the rust! Frame seems solid though. Passenger side the frame is a bit more gouged, but really pretty good shape. You can see the layering of rust stacked up over the top of the frame metal.

PXL_20240214_033239459.jpg


And that ends the photos. I bought all the steel and planks today, hopefully start on the bed tomorrow. The steel yard didn't have all the sizes I wanted, so I ended up with 2x6 for the perimeter and 2x3 for the cross members. With the 1.5" tall planks, that'll be a 1.5" tall lip around the perimeter when I originally wanted a 0.5" lip, but 1.5" lip might end up being nicer. Worst case I'll just add a spacer on the 3" cross members if I don't like how tall the lip is.

And holy fuck is steel expensive. I knew this place wasn't the cheapest, but I feel like I got fairly screwed. Guess that's the price to pay for wanting it now. I ended up paying $2200 for the steel (40ft 2x6x.125, 40ft 2x3x.125, 40ft 4x.125 flat, 40ft 2x.125 angle, 40ft 2x.25 angle, 4x8x.25 sheet). Though I think they gave me a 6x10 sheet of 1/4".... So that helps ease the pain I guess? And then top that off at $450 for 8x 2x12x12ft decking planks.

$10k for a semi, $3k for the bed. Sick :grinpimp:

Wife wants to do a trip this weekend, so we are making an attempt to get the semi ready to throw out cabover camper on the bed and go for a spin. Wife has been deep cleaning the inside while I've been working on the back and the inside is looking a lot better. Vacuum, steam clean, carpet clean, the whole 9. Hopefully the deck goes pretty smooth, I'll add in all the other features once we get back. Right now the plan is to have a nice flat surface with some strapping points by Friday.
 
This stuff is still a layer of rust. Needle scaler is the best tool for it IMO.

Screen Shot 2024-02-14 at 8.08.36 AM.png
Indeed, lots of shit to clean and then I'll take the grinder to it down to bare metal and throw some paint on it. I'd like to get POR15, but I doubt that's sold locally. Might just do some chassis spray paint and if the forklift decides to stay working then go more hardcore next week sealing the frame up.

I'd also like to pull those angle iron pieces with the bolt holes since there's a lot of rust between the frame and angle iron (probably the angle rusting) but I don't have much confidence in getting the angle off without cutting all the bolts going to it so we'll see...
 
Top Back Refresh