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Tearing apart a parts 00 Tracker for my Samurai and 99 Tracker rigs.

Landslide

Red Skull Member
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May 20, 2020
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422
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I bought a 2000 Tracker for parts for my 88 Samurai and my 99 Tracker.

The engine is a 2.0 and needs to be gone through. I knew the engine was needing help when I bought it. I’m trying to see how bad it is testing it but I can’t get the starter to turn over. Not sure what’s going on with it but so far it looks like the starter might be bad. More messing with that tonight.

I want to put the 2.0 and auto transmission in the samurai. That’s another project for another day.

The sidekick has a shell on the back and a sunroof cover. It has some stress cracks in it which looks to be a type of plastic. I need to repair those too. I’ll use them on my 99 which I call meat wagon V. Basically I use it on our farm for doing work mostly and deer hunting. I r had it and used it there for around 14 years.

It has a lift kit on it that I may use on my 99. It has wheel spacers too but I’m not sure I’ll use them or not.

The tires are in like new condition and are MT tires. I thought all four were the same brand when I checked them out but one is an oddball. It’s in like new condition too and is similar is why I didn’t see it right away.

It’s got two good doors and seats are in decent condition too.

I’ll keep a lot of parts for my 99 like the front diff Stecher etc.

The 00 body looked good in the photos in the ad but once inspected, I saw the rockers are gone and rusted away. The floorboard is in bad shape too. So once it’s stripped I’ll scrap it out

I’ll post up the stripping process and progress as I go. I stripped a ton of vehicles throughout the years but never documented any of them. So set back and enjoy the professional (fawk you if you disagree :flipoff2: ) disassembly process I do. Lots of alcohol will be consumed in the process as well but it won’t be budlight.

Here’s the victi… vehicle in question getting prepped for autopsy <- notice auto in that :laughing:

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In to see samurai progress:beer:

Can't help with the rest.

Do all trackers have the split rear bench and does it fit in the samurai?
 
On the 2.0 donor, unplug all the connectors to the ECM under the dash. Then you can pull the engine harness out through the firewall. The plastic clip that holds the harness in the firewall can be used on the Samurai firewall. I've done it before.
 
Yep, the starter if fubared. I’d love to get a psi reading on the cylinders but I’m not going to buy a starter for that, so onward with disassembly progress.

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On the 2.0 donor, unplug all the connectors to the ECM under the dash. Then you can pull the engine harness out through the firewall. The plastic clip that holds the harness in the firewall can be used on the Samurai firewall. I've done it before.
Cool thanks. I may send the harness to that place out northwest to weed out. I don’t know if I want to take the time to fawk with that.
 
Cool thanks. I may send the harness to that place out northwest to weed out. I don’t know if I want to take the time to fawk with that.
I'm using a 2.0 in my buggy. A buddy did my harness and he said it was very easy. Not sure I wouldn't look into doing it yourself first. My buddy did all the wiring on my buggy so he did the harness while it was at his shop.
 
I'm using a 2.0 in my buggy. A buddy did my harness and he said it was very easy. Not sure I wouldn't look into doing it yourself first. My buddy did all the wiring on my buggy so he did the harness while it was at his shop.
I do have a factory service manual on it that I bought some years back for my 99 which has a 2.0 in it. It should have a wiring diagram in it.

Making it work on the samurai dash may be another story tho. I think the only gauge in it is the tack
 
Leak down test is easy enough to see how that motor is.

Do these 2.0’s have a tendency to crack like the 1.6?
 
Most common issue I've seen with the 2.0 is broken timing chains. The chain will wear through the plastic guide between the cams, the plastic will eventually come apart and the chain will start rubbing on the metal bracket. Then eventually the chain will catch on the metal bracket and break. I've personally seen it happen on 4-5 2.0 engines.

It happened to the 2.0 that's in my buggy.

On a related note, the 2.0 is supposedly an interference engine. The 2.0 in my buggy, the donor was driving at 60mph down the highway when the timing chain broke. Not a single bent valve.
 
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I’m planning on pulling the valve cover before I pull it to check out the top side. I know I have to go through this engine seeing the amount of dirt residue in the throttle body. I’m tearing the engine down either way so I’m not real concerned about low compression, just too much wear or internal damage mostly.

I’ve no idea on how common it is for cracks but my machine shop guy repaired several Toyota 22RE heads on engines I rebuilt years ago.

Where’s the best place for Suzuki engine parts?
 
Aaaaaaaand a huge fuck you you Asian fucksticks for putting the passenger airbag mounting bolts in the most fucked up place award. But I won :flipoff2:
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Working on the dash. It’s not as easy as the old Toyotas we’re to tear down, this thing has hidden mountings that I haven’t found all yet. But we’ll get it. I want to keep the dash as it’s not cracked like my 99 is.

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Whittling on the dash every night this week and hunting for all the hidden screw / bolt fasteners holding it all together. I can see the firewall now at least. The one thing that goes through my mind while doing this is, how do these shops that replace the heater core ever get dashboards like this back together correctly?

I think I maybe nuts for thinking about replacing my cracked dash in my 99 tracker.

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Whelp, got the ac and heater core housings out of the way. Got most of the wiring removed but a small bit to go yet.

Next will be taking the valve cover off for an inspection then work on removing the transmission and engine. I’m hoping I can remove them in one pull out the front. I’ll cut the front core support to make it easier for clearance

Gonna cut the transmission tunnel out of the body as well as I may need it for the samurai body.

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And my awesome helper is in the shop today too. I think I’ll be waiting rest of her life for any help tho :laughing:

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Cut the core support and the engine/trans/t-case will come out together easily. You can pull it all as one without cutting the core support but it's more difficult, even with an engine leveler attachment on the hoist.

The engine/trans/t-case is surprisingly long overall.
 
Basically none of them do. I spent a lot of time trying to track down what model came with them, Basically no one knows. Or it's only the v6, 5 speed grand vitara (4 door plus big cargo area) and they only made like 5 of them :laughing:
I bought another tracker today from a guy up in Iowa. It’s a 4 door rig and the front diff was out of it and he had a good one he put in the passenger floorboard for me. It’s aluminum

I’ll post up this jem later today. The body is beat to fawk and the windshield is caved in from one of his buddies. The engine runs great and the transmission works great and that’s all I’m after.
 
Cut the core support and the engine/trans/t-case will come out together easily. You can pull it all as one without cutting the core support but it's more difficult, even with an engine leveler attachment on the hoist.

The engine/trans/t-case is surprisingly long overall.
I looked at it the other day and I’m not sure it’ll come out this way very easy. It looks like the T case on the transmission will get tangled up with the front differential
 
I looked at it the other day and I’m not sure it’ll come out this way very easy. It looks like the T case on the transmission will get tangled up with the front differential

Maybe I dropped the front diff, it's been awhile since I've pulled the drivetrain from a Trackick.
 
Maybe I dropped the front diff, it's been awhile since I've pulled the drivetrain from a Trackick.
I’m on my way to dropping the transmission separately. First, I was shocked at how fawking tight the torque converter to flywheel bolts were (a major pita to break loose) then secondly, I was shocked at how many bolts they put in there :eek::laughing: I won and got them all out, now it’s down to bell housing bolts, cross member removal and if the wiring harness is connected to anything… oh and transmission cooling lines disconnect. I gotta check out the dipstick tube too and see if there’s a separation point on it.
 
Photos of my other parts donner I picked up yesterday. She’s rough but it runs out good and the transmission is good too.

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Transmission dipstick tube is 2 piece. It has a bolt that holds the upper part on. It's solid from the trans pan to about half way up.

The torque converter to flywheel bolts are ridiculously tight.
 
Well, if you end up with a spare iron diff, let me know. I have a friend who’s looking for one. He broke his stock diff.

Or if you find one with it in it, just tell me what it is so it’s easier to find.
 
Well, if you end up with a spare iron diff, let me know. I have a friend who’s looking for one. He broke his stock diff.

Or if you find one with it in it, just tell me what it is so it’s easier to find.
Looking at the other rig I just got, it is an aluminum housing.
 
Whelp, I just did one of the more brutal jobs ever. Pulling the transmission/t case assembly out the bottom of the rig. It’s a major pita to get to most of the crap on this thing and I want to poke a Suzuki engineer in the eyeball. They put a wiring harness retaining bolt way up top of the bell housing in an impossible area to reach easily at all. But I won :flipoff2:

Now, it fawking dawns on me (please understand that I searched YouTube for people who’ve removed auto transmissions on these 99-2004 trackers but nope, nada out there that I could find. Now you’d think that I would at least look at the FSM I have on these things, nope, didn’t think about it until I was done. So it dawns on me while in trying to lower the transmission/transfer case assembly that maybe I should have done this job differently. Suzuki put a welded in cross member tube behind the transmission assembly. After fighting to get the transmission/transfer case assembly down past it using a pry bar, I think self :yaknow, I should’ve dropped the t case first then the transmission secondly: on my behalf I did think about it but this stuff is really caked on dirty and I didn’t want to introduce dirt into anything. Looking back, yep clean it then disassemble it. Next one will be different and maybe then, I’ll be able to reach that stupid wiring harness bolt way up top with the t case out of the way. :homer:

Next is removing the engine and finding room somewhere to store some of this crap.


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Basically none of them do. I spent a lot of time trying to track down what model came with them, Basically no one knows. Or it's only the v6, 5 speed grand vitara (4 door plus big cargo area) and they only made like 5 of them :laughing:

There was one for sale locally for $650. One of Byro’s buddies bought it.

I’m almost certain using a Samurai 3rd is the ticket to stopping the front diffs from blowing up. The third member is the weak point, and once it breaks it snaps the outers on the housing with it.

Now keeping CV’s alive with a front locker is another obstacle.
 
Well, if you end up with a spare iron diff, let me know. I have a friend who’s looking for one. He broke his stock diff.

Or if you find one with it in it, just tell me what it is so it’s easier to find.
Whelp, they are out there apparently. Searching fb for something else and came across this. Might help you know what tracker to look for with one.

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