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fvs
Random traveler
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 266
- Messages
- 65
Front ford Dana 60
Big4x4ride
Red Skull Member
Not necessarily the exact same thing, but I'm looking at cutting and sleeving the short side to widen the axle 3ish inches to eliminate the need for my front spacers. and allow more room for link/shock mounts.
flexy flatty
Red Skull Member
My 2003 14 bolt had round 3.5” tubes. Super thin though. I cut and sleeved it to make an offset rear using factory shafts that are swapped side to side for an fzj80 with the offset case.
cgalpha08
Red Skull Member
That's how thin 14b tubes are? is that limited to the newer ones or are the old ones like that? Curious if anyone has cut different "gens" apart to know.
I am largely asking because I'm about to install one under my rig, albeit a much older 14b.
I am largely asking because I'm about to install one under my rig, albeit a much older 14b.
The Freeak
Pro-Crastinator
My late 14 bolts have both had surprisingly thin wall tube.
I didn't measure when I made the hole, but I'd guess wall was well under 1/4".
I gouged a bit deep cutting off the perches/ brackets, and had to weld it up.
I didn't measure when I made the hole, but I'd guess wall was well under 1/4".
I gouged a bit deep cutting off the perches/ brackets, and had to weld it up.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
3.5" 250 tubes is pretty crazy for a 1 ton. 4" 250 I can see being stronger than 3.5" 375
So I'm gearing up to passenger drop swap a 05 sd60, and I spoke to a guy today at an axle and frame place. We discussed what it takes to do the job. I said I would prefer to push the long side out of the chunk and press in a new length. He said it's impossible as the tubes are swaged into the pumpkin. In all my research, this has never come up in conversation. Is he using antiquated boomer logic or is this a thing?
Rangerrod
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 264
- Messages
- 469
I know it wasn’t a thing on anything 97 and older 60’s. Wfo in their race truck broke a housing in half so maybe call them and ask.
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I cut the short side off mine today and removed the tube from the C. I am a little surprised to find the tubes are 3/8 thick. I was under the impression they are 1/2". How does a cut and sleeve hold up to abuse? It's definitely cheaper.This one is narrowed to 65.5” for a toyota. Cut and sleeved one side and c slide on the other.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Type of forming, they do it to bottles to form the ends.Impossible
What does he even mean by swaged?
Does not make sense since pretty sure the tubes are machined on the ends not formed. You need to machine the ends for the seal anyways just turn the OD at the same time.
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Holds up great, if a sleeve is done properly it’s stronger than the original tube. (Plug weld, correct length, tight fit tube that’s decent thickness)
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Right, I was drawing a blank, exhaust is the common thing to swedge.
willis_racing
Wee Todd Did
Maybe by "swaged", boomer mcgee means he is easily defeated by a pressfit
Yea he said swedge, not swage. So basically a taper fit. I thought it sounded like bullshit. I ordered some fresh 3.75 x 3/8 DOM to do the long side, expensive shit. I still plan on a full retube. I've read up on methods to remove the old tube from the center section, and the one i like best is the weld method. Drill out the plug welds as usual, and then weld inside the tube to shrink it. At that point, it should almost fall out. I'm going this route to help keep it as straight as possible. I figure if everthing is press fit, it should stay fairly straight.