I got the F150 hydraulic calipers with e-park brake for 42.00 each off Ebay.
got a PN or year/trim for the F150 calipers?
I got the F150 hydraulic calipers with e-park brake for 42.00 each off Ebay.
If you read here, I bought 2021 F150 calipers from eBay.got a PN or year/trim for the F150 calipers?
Here's the Caddy 8 lug rotor with a 2021 F150 two in one caliper. Both are a lot heavier GVW than my Jeep.
No worries.somehow i missed it, thanks
My 2018 F150 XLT has them too.got a PN or year/trim for the F150 calipers?
Awesome work on the controller. So individual control of each caliper, current sensing in both directions? That sounds pretty damn ideal, then you can program whatever specifics you want from there. Are you handling the polarity reversing for releasing the caliper with that dual relay board?
I've been doing some hunting on the same topic, and there are a couple motor driver shield boards for the Uno that have caught my interest.
Polulu Dual VNH5019 - 12a continuous, 30a peak per channel:
Pololu Dual VNH5019 Motor Driver Shield for Arduino
Video example:
Monster Moto Shield VNH2SP30 Dual - 14a continuous, 30a peak per channel (but this one might be obsolete?):
Amazon.com
Tutorial:
Tutorial for Monster Motor Shield VNH2SP30
They are set up to control dual motors in both directions, sense current on each channel, and have pretty high current capabilities. It'll be a while, but might have to do some tinkering later in the year
4 wire calipers. For a parking brake there's really no reason to mess with the position sensor portion of the calipers. From the research I've done was that that was overkill for a caliper and unnecessary. 2 Wire calipers combined with input from the ABS system and a PWM have enough variability in the closing speed and response time to work without all the position sensing.Good stuff man. Interesting on the caliper flex even around 5a, I heard the guy say they stall around 15a in that video and made me wonder, because I run relatively small rotor diameters for my tire size. But if the caliper is flexing significantly by that point, meh.
Great find on that standalone dual H bridge controller too. I was seriously expecting there to be a pretty good selection of them in uno shield format, but most seem obsolete and/or expensive. So that standalone you found looks like a better bang for the buck, and more readily available.
Side tangent, are your calipers 2 wire or 4 wire?
On mine I went simple, the switch is down where it's hard to hit by accident and you have to have the brake depressed to enable it. I figured if I ever wanted to use it I would likely be moving and have the brake pedal down.That's some cool logic on the circuit...tapping into the speedo signal could be sweet to avoid any accidental button pushes at freeway speeds.
So one of the additional wires is the output of a hall effect sensor on the caliper motor? That goes with what I had read, what's the second wire? A voltage reference for the sensor?
I agree that watching amperage plus some timers seems completely acceptable in my eyes, though I still find the position sensor intriguing even if I don't have an intended use for it
Years | Model | trim | Disk W | OD Piston | Parking Brake Actuator |
2015-2020 | F150 | Light Duty | PBA002 6 spline male | ||
2015-2020 | F150 | Med Duty | 24mm W | PBA009 12 spl Male | |
2021-2023 | F150 | Light Duty | 20mm W | 54mm | PBA002 18.5 kN P Brake |
2021-2023 | F150 | Heavy Duty | 20mm W | 54mm | PBA009 25.5 kN P Brake |
2021-2023 | F150 | Max Tow | 24mm W | 54mm | PBA011 25.5 kN P Brake |
2021 | Bronco | all | 24mm W | 54mm | PBA051 |
2018-2021 | Expedition | all | 24mm W | PBA009 | |
2022-2023 | Expedition | all | 20mm W | PBA009 |
I'm curious why you would need this on an axle that already has disc brakes with an integrated drum emergency brake.I would like to figure that out. Grendel mentioned his opened far enough to accommodate a 27mm rotor which best I can tell from the casting numbers on it, it may be from a 20mm rotor version and gives me hope. I don't have a friendly scrap yard I can go measure true openings at around me so it may be a fairly expensive gamble. Worst case I can sand down brake pads to fit or cut the rotor width down a bit but custom consumables like brakes would be a maintenance pain.
Not a part of this thread.I'm curious why you would need this on an axle that already has disc brakes with an integrated drum emergency brake.
Here's the rub - run the part numbers... there's no difference.I would like to figure that out. Grendel mentioned his opened far enough to accommodate a 27mm rotor which best I can tell from the casting numbers on it, it may be from a 20mm rotor version and gives me hope. I don't have a friendly scrap yard I can go measure true openings at around me so it may be a fairly expensive gamble. Worst case I can sand down brake pads to fit or cut the rotor width down a bit but custom consumables like brakes would be a maintenance pain.
Not a part of this thread.
Here's the rub - run the part numbers... there's no difference.
I would have to make it require 2 hands to engage so no one could engage it at 60mph!Talking to a friend of mine, It would be cool to be able to turn on/off the different sides for a cutting brake.
I just ordered the 2019 f150 calipers for testing.
Edit* Just going to be wiring this like a toyota Elocker with a momentary DPDT switch.
You've got a point. I think I'll tie it to the brake switch. I've never thought about activating the parking brake without being on the brakes. Also, in case of brake line failure, this will allow you to still apply the emergency brakes at speed without a saftey.
Here is a rough schematic of what I'm thinking. It's not idiot proof. The 3 way ON switch would be directly above the DPDT and labeled. For Comp, I'd probaby just run 2 DPDT switches. Fair warning, I'm an idiot and I know nothing about arduino's or I'd go that route. What @Ford Fascist did is way nicer. I haven't figured out how to light up a warning light yet.
With this setup, you would be controlling one brake at a time, disconnecting the control voltage of the one you don't use. Worst case senario, I unbolt the motor and they are normal calipers again. I plan on running The controller from post #75, so the DPDT switch only sees control voltage and the controller cuts out at 10A in each direction. It should move the motors till the limit is hit and yes, it will cycle longer. I will need to figure out how many amps that the calipers can handle and how it will affect the calipers moving that far in and out. I'm betting it's a 16A motor from some of the Ford Forums. I read that the Teslas go up to 16A as well. Willwood electric brakes have a 40A fuse.Not really a fan of this design because you have no way to release the caliper or gauge how much brake force you want to input. It's all or nothing. I can't imagine you are going to be able to accurately reverse each individual caliper. In theory it could work, but in practice I see this leading to a big mess and frying your DPDT switch.
Put me down for one.This is where you need a logic board with a PWM controller to be able to keep track of how much brake force to input on either side with a variable joystick. The farther you push left or right the more power your controller sends to the caliper. Releasing the joystick tells the controller to release the exact amount it was wound in. This is completely doable with a PWM dual bridge controller.