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Java230 said:
I have about 2 3/4" up travel, so they should not rub.

I did put the 1750 springs on for now. Went to add brakes and need a seal....
Click to expand...
It's normalish to overload the trailer...
So the tires need to not touch in that case...
Also if you just actually break the spring you want to be able to limp to the next place.
 
CarterKraft said:
It's normalish to overload the trailer...
So the tires need to not touch in that case...
Also if you just actually break the spring you want to be able to limp to the next place.
Click to expand...
Yes I was debating adding a bump stop.

I have 6k springs as well....

But in reality I'm guessing my load will be 1500 lbs ish.
 
Java230 said:
Yes I was debating adding a bump stop.

I have 6k springs as well....

But in reality I'm guessing my load will be 1500 lbs ish.
Click to expand...
I'd normally say you want a bump stop if you can over travel the spring, that doesn't look to be a problem for you and a big bump stop is going to be hard to fit cause it's gonna hit pretty soon in the stroke.
 
CarterKraft said:
I'd normally say you want a bump stop if you can over travel the spring, that doesn't look to be a problem for you and a big bump stop is going to be hard to fit cause it's gonna hit pretty soon in the stroke.
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Yes unless I go SUA and add a big bump. I am thinking trailer springs don't have a whole lot of movement to them
 
About right. I bolted poly bumps to the bottom of the frame to get rid of the metal on metal contact. It also keeps my tires out of my fenders
 
Screen Shot 2024-04-02 at 6.40.14 AM.png
 
rockota said:
Do it

And give serious thoughts to shocks
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I was thinking about shocks.... I have them on my Datsun trailer, since it's literally the back half of a truck.... But they will be so short on this thing.
 
Java230 said:
I was thinking about shocks.... I have them on my Datsun trailer, since it's literally the back half of a truck.... But they will be so short on this thing.
Click to expand...
I don't see how a shock could help with so little travel.

Bumps....
Something real short

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Energy Suspension universal bump stops 7/8 Inches Tall 1-7/8 Inches Long 1-3/8 Inches Wide 2 Bushings Per Set. Made with premium polyurethane. In stock now! Ships now! 9.9118
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CarterKraft said:
I don't see how a shock could help with so little travel.

Bumps....
Something real short

Universal Bump Stops | 9.9118

Energy Suspension universal bump stops 7/8 Inches Tall 1-7/8 Inches Long 1-3/8 Inches Wide 2 Bushings Per Set. Made with premium polyurethane. In stock now! Ships now! 9.9118
www.suspension.com www.suspension.com
Click to expand...

It's always about controlling spring movement. Get some weight on that thing and on the road, it might start oscillating side to side, up and down, etc. 3.5" of travel isn't much but when one side is up 3" and the other side down say 2, it's a lot of movement.

Even tiny M416s back in the day had shocks. It's a good idea to include them, and shocks that small are pretty cheap.

Can always add them later too to do a before/after comparison, but with shocks is almost always better.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
It's always about controlling spring movement. Get some weight on that thing and on the road, it might start oscillating side to side, up and down, etc. 3.5" of travel isn't much but when one side is up 3" and the other side down say 2, it's a lot of movement.

Even tiny M416s back in the day had shocks. It's a good idea to include them, and shocks that small are pretty cheap.

Can always add them later too to do a before/after comparison, but with shocks is almost always better.
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I agree but packaging the shock with that layout seems really challenging.
 
I wouldn't have thought there was enough room between the inner fender and the tire but if there is than it would be pretty easy to add them.
 
CarterKraft said:
I wouldn't have thought there was enough room between the inner fender and the tire but if there is than it would be pretty easy to add them.
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They go inside the frame rail... not outside.
 
If I do quick and dirty, think stud welded to the inside of the frame for the shock, I am assuming it will die quick without being in double shear.....
 
Java230 said:
If I do quick and dirty, think stud welded to the inside of the frame for the shock, I am assuming it will die quick without being in double shear.....
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Not sure I'd trust a 7/16 or 1/2 bolt or whatever tiny size the shock wants.

Weld on tabs are pretty cheap. Should be able to weld any old pair of lower brackets for a solid axle onto the web of the frame.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Most OEM and many aftermarket shock mounts aren't double-shear. You're not holding up the world with it, just dampening vibrations.
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True, I just figured if it's enough to dampen a load it must have a fair bit of force.
 
Java230 said:
True, I just figured if it's enough to dampen a load it must have a fair bit of force.
Click to expand...
It's not like a spring mount. I believe the shock mount will only see as much stress as pressure that the shock itself can exert. Maybe a few hundred pounds of force, not thousands.
 
Java230 said:
If I do quick and dirty, think stud welded to the inside of the frame for the shock, I am assuming it will die quick without being in double shear.....
Click to expand...
I tried the old CJ-style spring plate/welded stud shock mount... Broke them.

I ended up welding on some adjustable hot rod coil over mounts to the axle and double-sheered the frame mount.
 
rockota said:
you know that ultimately... someone will tell you it needs more triangulation... :flipoff2:
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arse_sidewards said:
When you start talking about trusses made from 3/16 thick angle and 2" pipe (i.e. a typical trailer) and zero triangulation that kind of breaks down because the "12 inch beam" folds sideways before the 6" channel would have bent.

But yeah, if constructed with proper triangulation and with something to keep it from folding in/out it would be pretty fucking strong and on the order of a 12" beam.
Click to expand...

Nailed it. :flipoff2:
 
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