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Java230

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Joined
Jul 15, 2020
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2303
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1,138
Looking for a 6x10 trailer. I see a lot of cheaper angle iron trailers.

I probably don't need a ton of capacity most of the time, likely 1500-2k lbs generally, usually less, but more is always better rather than pushing a more light weight trailer?

I see decent looking 2k capacity trailers (assuming 3500lb axle?) for 2500-3k used.


So I did some looking. I can get 5200lb axle, 3500lb springs, fenders, stake pockets, saftey chains for ~$1500

I was thinking 3x3 .109 wall tube for the main frame, 2x3 .109 for the floor cross members, one 2x2 .120 front to back for coupler tie in.

That should be 3 sticks of 3x3, 2 for the floor cross members and one for the coupler tube.

I have not priced that yet.


Now add paint, lights, decking sides etc. it will be more than a used one for sure, but is a beefy over built worth it?
 
I plan on building and galvanizing an air ride car hauler after building my new shop, so I understand the reason as I've never truly been impressed with trailer quality.

With that said, I would do calculations using channel, as tube can rust from the inside out depending on your climate. Channel can have all surfaces painted and doesn't have anywhere to trap moisture.
 
Lowrollin70gmc said:
I plan on building and galvanizing an air ride car hauler after building my new shop, so I understand the reason as I've never truly been impressed with trailer quality.

With that said, I would do calculations using channel, as tube can rust from the inside out depending on your climate. Channel can have all surfaces painted and doesn't have anywhere to trap moisture.
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Exaclty, but at the same time I am not sure I need a big beefy trailer. I generally only haul a few hundred lbs of bulky stuff.... Part of why I want t keep it as small as possible.

Isn't channel weaker and heavier?
 
My limited engineering memory is that channel will twist more than tube, but supports weight similar to rectangular tube (both with tall axis vertical).

There are also several lb/ft options for channel in the smaller sizes, so it's not a huge weight penalty, if any. Could possibly go to a "lighter" 4" Channel and have more capacity than 2x3 tube as the flange to flange distance is what makes the most difference in strength.
 
I built mine with 120 wall rectangular tube. Then built the uprights out of angle. I had a 6000 lb mobile home axle in the barn with brakes so I cut it down to 8’6” to the outside of the tires to get as wide of deck as possible. It’s hauled a lot of heavy shit including a 3000 lb double drum roller. I’m pretty sure I didn’t have any more into it than buying an angle iron trailer but is way more useful.
 
rockdog57 said:
I built mine with 120 wall rectangular tube. Then built the uprights out of angle. I had a 6000 lb mobile home axle in the barn with brakes so I cut it down to 8’6” to the outside of the tires to get as wide of deck as possible. It’s hauled a lot of heavy shit including a 3000 lb double drum roller. I’m pretty sure I didn’t have any more into it than buying an angle iron trailer but is way more useful.
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Thats my thinking, same cost, (less my labor) to make a beefy small trailer.

I am looking at tractors etc too.... But they are all 2k ish lbs it seems for the smaller ones.
 
Java230 said:
Thats my thinking, same cost, (less my labor) to make a beefy small trailer.

I am looking at tractors etc too.... But they are all 2k ish lbs it seems for the smaller ones.
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I haul my tiny little mini ex all the time in it. It weighs 1500 lbs and you don’t even notice it in there. Definitely worth it in my opinion.
 
Buy a massive piece of shit that's in the form factor you need and rebuild it.

Cheaper than rebuilding and easier than building from scratch.

x2 on channel over tube.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Buy a massive piece of shit that's in the form factor you need and rebuild it.

Cheaper than rebuilding and easier than building from scratch.

x2 on channel over tube.
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Just ordered all the parts to build less the steel....

Channel size ideas?
 
If you want to stay similar in weight to 3x3x.109 (11 gauge?) is 4.75 lb / foot, 4"x4.5# Channel is 4.5 lb/foot and slightly stiffer in the vertical axis if I'm reading charts right.

Crossmembers could be 3"x3.5#

Channel is a bigger pain to make crossmembers fit, but you could do bottom of crossmember flush on the bottom of the outer rail (nice to weld to the V tongue and stiffen everything up) and then 5/4 boards for decking.

I'd probably do a 6x10 rectangle out of the 4" and a V tongue under it with 4" from the spring hangers forward. Would take a little more material than a straight tongue, but stronger for not much more weight. End the V with a coupler channel (the multi height dingus) and you're in business.
 
6" frame 4" crossmembers every 12". If it's worth doing it's worth overdoing. :flipoff2:
 
Lowrollin70gmc said:
If you want to stay similar in weight to 3x3x.109 (11 gauge?) is 4.75 lb / foot, 4"x4.5# Channel is 4.5 lb/foot and slightly stiffer in the vertical axis if I'm reading charts right.

Crossmembers could be 3"x3.5#

Channel is a bigger pain to make crossmembers fit, but you could do bottom of crossmember flush on the bottom of the outer rail (nice to weld to the V tongue and stiffen everything up) and then 5/4 boards for decking.

I'd probably do a 6x10 rectangle out of the 4" and a V tongue under it with 4" from the spring hangers forward. Would take a little more material than a straight tongue, but stronger for not much more weight. End the V with a coupler channel (the multi height dingus) and you're in business.
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Thank you, I was planning a v- tongue. But I want to run a 2x2 tube all the way front to back for my coupler to attach to.

Is tube really that bad?

After thinking about it, if I can keep my cross members in inch and a half below the main frame rails, that would leave me with a flush deck.
 
arse_sidewards said:
6" frame 4" crossmembers every 12". If it's worth doing it's worth overdoing. :flipoff2:
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Remember this is a 6x10 trailer! Only so much you can put on it:lmao:

And I'm usually running pretty minimal weight just bulky stuff
 
My buddy did exactly this a few years ago and loves the trailer. Usually those store bought trailers that size are beyond shitty.

A 5200lbs axle isn't much more that a 2k lbs or whatever and it's nice to have decent sized tires on it.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
My buddy did exactly this a few years ago and loves the trailer. Usually those store bought trailers that size are beyond shitty.

A 5200lbs axle isn't much more that a 2k lbs or whatever and it's nice to have decent sized tires on it.
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Exactly my thought, the 5200 lb axle was 120 bucks more than a 3500.

I just need to figure out the tube versus c channel debate. Tube seems better in my mind but I haven't built that much stuff. My last trailer was tube though, but 085 wall 2x2.

I do want to keep this one as light as I can, and still be able to haul 3K pounds
 
Tube isn't the end of the world, but I'm not a fan because of rust concerns and road salt. With dual 4" channel that runs all the way to the spring hangers, a center tube wouldn't be needed.


If you live where they don't salt, then tube isn't a big deal. My first car hauler was a tube job out of SoCal with a SoCal paint job (top only) and it was fine until I went back to the Dakotas.
 
i know you live somewhere near enough that taking this thing to Seattle Galv (in Arlington, Wa) would be very high on my list. hot dip galv the whole thing probably for the min charge ~$150 (or it about 50cents/ lb)

you can not beat the value of galv. if your close enough to a place that does it.



if you galv, use tube for the extra rigidity. if your going to paint it then use c channel. if it where me i'd use tube and galv.
 
tracyb said:
i know you live somewhere near enough that taking this thing to Seattle Galv (in Arlington, Wa) would be very high on my list. hot dip galv the whole thing probably for the min charge ~$150 (or it about 50cents/ lb)

you can not beat the value of galv. if your close enough to a place that does it.



if you galv, use tube for the extra rigidity. if your going to paint it then use c channel. if it where me i'd use tube and galv.
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I'm a aways from Arlington, but I think Scott's galv is within 1.5 hours
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
1.5hrs isn't too far for getting the best possible corrosion protection.

Build it and document the build here!
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Parts are on order. I just need to figure out tubing size and wall thicknesses.

Main rails 2x3 .120 or .109? cross bars 1.5x1.5 so decking will be flush to main rails. 2x2 for tongue 3/16 wall?

WaterH said:
You obviously want to build a trailer and you should. But the fact is it will be less expensive to buy a used one.
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Yes, but I can get close in cost and build myself a beefier trailer in a still small size.
 
Java230 said:
Just ordered all the parts to build less the steel....

Channel size ideas?
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Beamboy.exe gets you the capacity numbers, if throw out some dimensions of beam and length I can run it for yah.
 
3" channel 4.1 lb/ft 10' long supported at both ends and a 750 lb point load at 5'

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