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2000 Ford F-550 Build

YotaAtieToo said:
How quick is that to open or shut? Seems like it would be slow, which would make me want to Chuck it in the trash.

I also question that valves ability to open and shut 1000s of times after being packed with soot.

The actual exhaust brakes use something to keep the back pressure at an ideal amount. This not only saves your engine, but gives you better braking at lower rpm.

I don't think the pac brake is that bad of a price for the kit. That's my plan for the 12v at some point.

Edit: You want diy, puy their valve and diy the rest

www.cspracing.com

Pacbrake C10216

CSPRacing. The leader in late model GM Performance. We offer tuning, installs, and performance auto parts.
www.cspracing.com www.cspracing.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for that link. I’d be curious how fast the real exhaust brakes are compared to the bundy. I’d imagine if it’s too fast it spikes back pressure. I could be wrong though
 
A little update. You guys may call me fucking crazy for my obsession with gauges but it really isn't an obsession with gauges, it is an obsession with data. This isn't because it is some old shitty truck. I am the same way with my H3 and if I had a 2024 diesel I'd probably have 3 banks i-dash's monitoring everything. The difference is the new trucks can be monitored off of 1000 OEM PCM PIDs where I have to manually add most of it but it doesnt matter, new or old, I want it monitored. So I added 3 new guages.

A backstory to me being neurotic, when I would do 1200 mile road trips in my H3 every gas stop I would be touching the hubs, the rear diff cover, the t case, checking oil even though I checked it 200 miles ago at the last gas station and that is over and above all the PIDs I monitor while driving. I have a temp sensor in my doubler box because some have had overheating issues with another brand doubler box so I am neurotic. I also have an infrared temp gun with me to temp gun stuff all the time. With that said, it has saved my bacon in the past, on UA 2018, we stopped at a gas stop and I touch my hubs for the 1000th time and finally one wasn't the same as the others. It was PIPING hot. I pull it apart and I had twisted an axle shaft that cracked and bent and was causing a ton of drag on the hub. It was a wild break. It was so hot I burnt my hand immediately. If I didn't do that I would have 100% destroyed the wheel bearings and in UA fashion, they keep going, you have to fix it and catch up. Instead of an on the roadside fix with a potential for self-welded races to hubs or other drama, I unbolted the full float shafts at the gas stop, slapped in some spare shafts and carried on.

So, the 7.3 doesn't have shit for info. Water temp is only a PID if you have a manual trans. Oil pressure is a stupid switch on the dashboard. Over or under 5psi and it goes to the same spot on the dash. It is an idiot gauge.

I added backpressure, coolant temp and low pressure oil pressure. I moved High pressure oil down to the low pressure oil spot and exhaust backpressure by the boost guage. I wanted exh. backpressure since I will be adding an exhaust brake.

IMG_0251.jpeg
IMG_0257.jpeg
IMG_0253.jpeg


IMG_0258.jpeg

So the A pillar top to bottom I run exh. backpressure (just added,) boost, fuel pressure, EGT.

Then on the dash I have all 6 tires on TPMS. I just saw an F550 this week driving with a completely flat rear tire doing 70 mph and they had no clue. :homer: I'm sure it wouldn't be long before the carcass gives out and destroys a brake line.

Then the new pod at your knees is low oil pressure, high oil pressure, and coolant temp.

Then on my radio I look at trans temp, oil temp, IPR readings, tq converter slip, injection pulse width and voltage.

Id still like to add a diff temp sensor and t case temp sensor as I know people who have overheated both of those before. It's rare but if a problem can be caught early, it can usually be solved before it's too late and you're up shits creek.

So, there's a peak into my life where I just worry constantly about anything that is powered by an engine. :flipoff2:
 
06h3 said:
Id still like to add a diff temp sensor and t case temp sensor as I know people who have overheated both of those before. It's rare but if a problem can be caught early, it can usually be solved before it's too late and you're up shits creek.
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There's no reason to actively monitor those things unless you know you have a problem or on the edge of one. Just get some of those "warranty void if overheated" stickers.
 
arse_sidewards said:
There's no reason to actively monitor those things unless you know you have a problem or on the edge of one. Just get some of those "warranty void if overheated" stickers.
Click to expand...
Before each trip I jack up the rear end, check for wheel bearing play and then make sure I still have fluid up to the fill plug so you are probably right.
 
06h3 said:
A little update. You guys may call me fucking crazy for my obsession with gauges but it really isn't an obsession with gauges, it is an obsession with data. This isn't because it is some old shitty truck. I am the same way with my H3 and if I had a 2024 diesel I'd probably have 3 banks i-dash's monitoring everything. The difference is the new trucks can be monitored off of 1000 OEM PCM PIDs where I have to manually add most of it but it doesnt matter, new or old, I want it monitored. So I added 3 new guages.

A backstory to me being neurotic, when I would do 1200 mile road trips in my H3 every gas stop I would be touching the hubs, the rear diff cover, the t case, checking oil even though I checked it 200 miles ago at the last gas station and that is over and above all the PIDs I monitor while driving. I have a temp sensor in my doubler box because some have had overheating issues with another brand doubler box so I am neurotic. I also have an infrared temp gun with me to temp gun stuff all the time. With that said, it has saved my bacon in the past, on UA 2018, we stopped at a gas stop and I touch my hubs for the 1000th time and finally one wasn't the same as the others. It was PIPING hot. I pull it apart and I had twisted an axle shaft that cracked and bent and was causing a ton of drag on the hub. It was a wild break. It was so hot I burnt my hand immediately. If I didn't do that I would have 100% destroyed the wheel bearings and in UA fashion, they keep going, you have to fix it and catch up. Instead of an on the roadside fix with a potential for self-welded races to hubs or other drama, I unbolted the full float shafts at the gas stop, slapped in some spare shafts and carried on.

So, the 7.3 doesn't have shit for info. Water temp is only a PID if you have a manual trans. Oil pressure is a stupid switch on the dashboard. Over or under 5psi and it goes to the same spot on the dash. It is an idiot gauge.

I added backpressure, coolant temp and low pressure oil pressure. I moved High pressure oil down to the low pressure oil spot and exhaust backpressure by the boost guage. I wanted exh. backpressure since I will be adding an exhaust brake.

IMG_0251.jpeg
IMG_0257.jpeg
IMG_0253.jpeg


IMG_0258.jpeg

So the A pillar top to bottom I run exh. backpressure (just added,) boost, fuel pressure, EGT.

Then on the dash I have all 6 tires on TPMS. I just saw an F550 this week driving with a completely flat rear tire doing 70 mph and they had no clue. :homer: I'm sure it wouldn't be long before the carcass gives out and destroys a brake line.

Then the new pod at your knees is low oil pressure, high oil pressure, and coolant temp.

Then on my radio I look at trans temp, oil temp, IPR readings, tq converter slip, injection pulse width and voltage.

Id still like to add a diff temp sensor and t case temp sensor as I know people who have overheated both of those before. It's rare but if a problem can be caught early, it can usually be solved before it's too late and you're up shits creek.

So, there's a peak into my life where I just worry constantly about anything that is powered by an engine. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Same...

There were some PIDS for the 7.3 that were like HPOP health some sort of calculation that gave you a narrow range of "good" basically like a 1.5-3 number on a custom gauge in Torque, it monitored IPR %, pressure and Injector PW to give you a "health" number.
Really handy for seeing at a glance that things are "green".
This is from memory....
 
Aren't you an engineer by trade? That would explain a lot.

All that data would drive me crazy, constantly looking and monitoring every little movement. At a certain point you drive by ear/feel. Turn the radio up, send it, enjoy the open road.
 
TRINDU said:
Aren't you an engineer by trade? That would explain a lot.

All that data would drive me crazy, constantly looking and monitoring every little movement. At a certain point you drive by ear/feel. Turn the radio up, send it, enjoy the open road.
Click to expand...
I am not an engineer actually lol the people I know who are engineers would definitely say I’m not an engineer :homer:
 
What sucks is none of those guages would have saved me from destroying the block on my 7.3 :flipoff2:

My father in law has 3 of the fancy banks controllers in his 6.7 and it just looks like this to me

Screenshot_20240309_082941_Chrome.jpg


Call me a modern douche, but I'd just want warning alarms on a monitor. I'm not going to watch 10 different guages for 16 hours at a time.
 
I believe there is value in diagnosis when roadside.

When my truck wouldn’t start when I first got it I could have saved a ton of time knowing the lpop caused HPOP issues. An lpop and HPOP gauge would have helped that.

Coolant temp issues vs. oil temp issues can help diagnose things too.

You’re right though, when it’s fucked, it’s fucked.
 
That's a lotta gauges! I see the potential benefit in a diagnostic situation for sure as opposed to constantly checking gauges.

Will be curious to see your thoughts/opinions on the TPMS system. I know I've seen them on here in the past with a mixed bag of opinions.
 
ridered3 said:
That's a lotta gauges! I see the potential benefit in a diagnostic situation for sure as opposed to constantly checking gauges.

Will be curious to see your thoughts/opinions on the TPMS system. I know I've seen them on here in the past with a mixed bag of opinions.
Click to expand...
So far I have liked the tpms setup
 
06h3 said:
A little update. You guys may call me fucking crazy for my obsession with gauges but it really isn't an obsession with gauges, it is an obsession with data. This isn't because it is some old shitty truck. I am the same way with my H3 and if I had a 2024 diesel I'd probably have 3 banks i-dash's monitoring everything. The difference is the new trucks can be monitored off of 1000 OEM PCM PIDs where I have to manually add most of it but it doesnt matter, new or old, I want it monitored. So I added 3 new guages.

A backstory to me being neurotic, when I would do 1200 mile road trips in my H3 every gas stop I would be touching the hubs, the rear diff cover, the t case, checking oil even though I checked it 200 miles ago at the last gas station and that is over and above all the PIDs I monitor while driving. I have a temp sensor in my doubler box because some have had overheating issues with another brand doubler box so I am neurotic. I also have an infrared temp gun with me to temp gun stuff all the time. With that said, it has saved my bacon in the past, on UA 2018, we stopped at a gas stop and I touch my hubs for the 1000th time and finally one wasn't the same as the others. It was PIPING hot. I pull it apart and I had twisted an axle shaft that cracked and bent and was causing a ton of drag on the hub. It was a wild break. It was so hot I burnt my hand immediately. If I didn't do that I would have 100% destroyed the wheel bearings and in UA fashion, they keep going, you have to fix it and catch up. Instead of an on the roadside fix with a potential for self-welded races to hubs or other drama, I unbolted the full float shafts at the gas stop, slapped in some spare shafts and carried on.

So, the 7.3 doesn't have shit for info. Water temp is only a PID if you have a manual trans. Oil pressure is a stupid switch on the dashboard. Over or under 5psi and it goes to the same spot on the dash. It is an idiot gauge.

I added backpressure, coolant temp and low pressure oil pressure. I moved High pressure oil down to the low pressure oil spot and exhaust backpressure by the boost guage. I wanted exh. backpressure since I will be adding an exhaust brake.

IMG_0251.jpeg
IMG_0257.jpeg
IMG_0253.jpeg


IMG_0258.jpeg

So the A pillar top to bottom I run exh. backpressure (just added,) boost, fuel pressure, EGT.

Then on the dash I have all 6 tires on TPMS. I just saw an F550 this week driving with a completely flat rear tire doing 70 mph and they had no clue. :homer: I'm sure it wouldn't be long before the carcass gives out and destroys a brake line.

Then the new pod at your knees is low oil pressure, high oil pressure, and coolant temp.

Then on my radio I look at trans temp, oil temp, IPR readings, tq converter slip, injection pulse width and voltage.

Id still like to add a diff temp sensor and t case temp sensor as I know people who have overheated both of those before. It's rare but if a problem can be caught early, it can usually be solved before it's too late and you're up shits creek.

So, there's a peak into my life where I just worry constantly about anything that is powered by an engine. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
how did you connect to the head unit to show parameters?
 
I do pre trip checks too close to departure dates but it saved my bacon regardless.

IMG_0434.jpeg



My parking brake cable was rubbing against the inside of the tire. Parking brake is still fine. The metal core of the parking brake cable must have been rubbing on it since I installed the new axles and thousands of miles later I have a tire that probably would have blown.

I freaked out because my spare is a 225 not a 245 and it’s 10 years old with no tread so I got a cheapo 245 spare and another 245 replica of what I have.

After my trip inspection I hit the road.

I got to Moab safely and I can’t talk highly enough about 90 gallons on board. If you can log the hours without stopping it adds up to a nice savings in time. In a 8 hour 50 minute drive I spent a total of 4 minutes not in the truck.

IMG_0461.jpeg
 
You still liking this over just a pickup with a trailer?

Are you still planning on getting a camp trailer to pull behind it?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You still liking this over just a pickup with a trailer?

Are you still planning on getting a camp trailer to pull behind it?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I enjoy this setup. The chassis has proven to be stable, surprisingly stable. Since I haven’t driven with a camper or trailer much (only 2 times) I can drive 70-75 in CA where the speed limit is 55 in Ca so you can probably get away with 65 so going faster is nice.

The plan is still to get a trailer which I hope happens before year end. My wife and I have our own “fun money” since we both work and she bought that E350 camper. She plans to sell it this spring, use the money for an expedition or something similar so when we are local in Idaho and in small towns we use that to tow the camper and trips like Moab, sand hollow, the hammers, etc. we use the f550 and camper.

This Moab trip is a perfect example of when a camper would be nice, we are tent camping a few nights and hotel staying a few nights to break it up. It’d be nice to just have the camper instead.

I sometimes wish I wasn’t revving out to 2500 rpm at 70 mph so I stick to 70-75. That’s fast enough. I don’t caravan tow with my buddies but they usually go 60-65. They say going 80+ is a death sentence with a trailer or a ramp truck and they are probably right if things so south
 
Great looking setup and having tons of fuel on board is amazing (until time to fill it all up)! We carry just shy of 70 gallons on road trips and can really throw down the miles.
 
How much you think it would cost to get a mailbox chrome dipped with the blued end?
 
06h3 said:
Yeah, I enjoy this setup. The chassis has proven to be stable, surprisingly stable. Since I haven’t driven with a camper or trailer much (only 2 times) I can drive 70-75 in CA where the speed limit is 55 in Ca so you can probably get away with 65 so going faster is nice.

The plan is still to get a trailer which I hope happens before year end. My wife and I have our own “fun money” since we both work and she bought that E350 camper. She plans to sell it this spring, use the money for an expedition or something similar so when we are local in Idaho and in small towns we use that to tow the camper and trips like Moab, sand hollow, the hammers, etc. we use the f550 and camper.

This Moab trip is a perfect example of when a camper would be nice, we are tent camping a few nights and hotel staying a few nights to break it up. It’d be nice to just have the camper instead.

I sometimes wish I wasn’t revving out to 2500 rpm at 70 mph so I stick to 70-75. That’s fast enough. I don’t caravan tow with my buddies but they usually go 60-65. They say going 80+ is a death sentence with a trailer or a ramp truck and they are probably right if things so south
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Good deal, was just curious.

Tent camping in the desert just isn't fun, sand everywhere, hot as fuck, then cold as fuck. WIND :barf: Then no privacy at all typically. Love mountain camping, but not desert.

You still thinking about the brownie box? Or give up on it?
 
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