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2000 Ford F-550 Build

06h3

Red Skull Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2020
Member Number
2843
Messages
1,507
Loc
SW Idaho
Hey Guys,

I have never owned a truck or a tow rig for that matter. I have always driven my rig to and from the trail. The reason I started this path was that camping at hammers is getting old. I have camped for 6-9 days in a tent at hammers. The weather is temperamental, one minute its hot as hell, then windy as hell, then cold, then rain, then hot, etc. Went to sand hollow, got caught in a wind storm and then snow. I do love camping but I would like to keep the camping for the rubicon or summer camping. Not the camping in January and February. So I started looking at RV's. Sure, I could rent them every time I want to go out but the cost will add up and I would probably go on more trips if I have a warm place to sleep.

The C class RV was a perfect size and best suited for my price range but the towing capacity sucked and I would be well overweight towing a 6500lb rig plus the weight of a trailer and since I would be going far distances I felt being far over the towing capacity wouldn't be a good idea.

Diesel pushers and Super C class could tow what I need but they are too expensive.

I thought about a dually 3500 (any brand) truck bed camper and a trailer but the truck bed camper is a little small for my liking.

I contemplated just about every setup for months and months and months. I spoke to people with setups I was interested in, I spoke to my friends about the potential setups and I finally settled on something like a 4500-5500 flat bed setup. A rig big enough to haul my 4x4 on the flatbed and then tow a bumper pull trailer behind it. Another thing I wanted was a rig that wouldn't get stuck going to camp spots. Most of the big RV's get stuck as hell when going to camp spots in the desert and we end up having to dig them out and pull them out at the end of a trip.

From there the search continued on what kind of truck, new? Old? Ford? Dodge? Chevy? I have a company car and I still plan to drive my rig to and from the trail on specific trips so having a new truck with $400-800 car payment would probably just piss me off as it would sit most of the time. Also, if I am in a position where I need to spend some extra money on the 4x4 I can stop spending money on the truck. I couldn't stop making a payment if it was a newer more expensive truck.

I found a 2000 Ford F550 on reno craigslist but it was in Stockton, California. CA is banning older 4500/5500 series trucks after Dec. 31st 2020 so you basically have a paperweight of a vehicle.

I had my brother drive over to check out the truck and it needed some work but it checked off the main criteria.
-Crew cab
-Could fit a large 4x4 on the back
-Extremely high GCWR for what I need. (26k or 30k conflicting info on that)
I wish it was 4x4 but these trucks are easy to make 4x4.

So here she is....

A 2000 Ford F550 crew cab with the 7.3L Diesel, 4R100 Auto Trans, 2wd, 201in Wheelbase, 16 ft flatbed in length and 8 ft wide, Dana S135 with factory 4.88 gears, 225/70R19.5 tires. It is a high mileage truck with 376k miles on it. It was owned by the state of CA for many many years then owned by a guy using it for moving and delivery for a couple years until the state said you cant have that anymore.

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I picked it up for 5k, sold off a little utility trailer for $800 and was in the truck for $4200 and my brother picked it up and kept it at his place for a few days.

So I flew in to Sacramento from Boise, took a taxi to my brothers place in Lodi and picked up the truck. From there I drove down to so cal to visit my friend, pick up a 05+ F450 van D60 that had 4.88s for $300 then picked up a bunch of stuff my parents couldn't fit in their moving truck when they moved from so cal to Idaho.

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Weird, double cardan axleshafts that were in a 450 chassis front wheel drive van.

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I weighed the truck on my trek to so cal and she came in at a HEFTY 11,060 lbs with me in it.

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The drive down was uneventful and the truck ran very well, when I got to my buddies place the damn thing started leaking. After some diagnosis one of the HPOP lines had an o ring go. So I had to order some parts from the dealer unfortunately but got her back up and going the next morning. After that I visited another friend, picked up my parents stuff and headed back north. I stopped in Lodi for the night at my brother's and then got up early to go to my buddies place in Vacaville to setup some tie downs so I can bring my brothers jeep back up to Idaho.

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From there I went back to Lodi, picked up his Jeep so I can give it some TLC when I get home. Its a 1 ton swapped JKU on 40s weighing in at 6100 lbs, then the SD60 and my parents stuff I was grossing about 18k lbs which is equivalent to a normal F250/350 towing a 10-11k setup. Going up the 80 through truckee was ok, she got down to about 40-45 mph on 1 grade but what could you expect with a stock high mileage 7.3 lugging around 18k lbs. I think the 4.88s helped a ton. Trans temp got up to 200 max. After a very very long weekend she was home relatively problem free after logging around 1400-1500 miles. The amazing thing with the suspension is that with a 6100lb jeep on the back the suspension only squatted an inch!

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So what work needs to be done? Well I want this thing to be as problem free as possible so I want to go through it all. Injectors, injector cups, gasket harness, turbo, etc. and I had to get her in the garage!!!

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After I got it home my plan was to let it sit and stay put until the funds allowed to start modifying it but my wife needed help moving some stuff from one salon to another so it got put to work. Having a 16ft bed was nice!

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Then I let my parents use it to move their stuff from the house they were renting to the their new house. When they went to start it she wouldn't start. Unplugging the ICP didn't fix it. I changed the IPR without success and then threw a stage 2 CNC Fab HPOP at it and still nothing. I was throwing parts at it but had planned to do so anyways. Then I changed the LPOP with a melling low pressure oil pump and that fixed it. By the time I got that fixed they had to move so I did tow it with my H3 to their new place. Luckily it was only 8 miles away from their rental house.

Flat towing it with the Hummer.

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fixing it away from home

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So now she is back in the garage and I started looking for a plan on parts. I really was after towing heavy with little EGT issues. First I thought 180/30 injectors with a wicked wheel on the stock turbo but with that kind of weight it may not be enough so then found KC turbos which is a big upgrade compared to the wicked wheel but after much research, while it does cost more it seems the irate T4 kit and a SXE364.5 turbo really will help with EGT's. What really sold me on that was talking to a hot shot hauler on Instagram that has a 7.3 running 180/30 injectors and a T4 kit with a SXE366 turbo and he has no EGT issues and he runs anywhere from 30-37k gross daily!!!! I already ordered that T4 turbo kit and a PHP hydra. Now I just need the 180/30 injectors, cups and gasket harness.

As for the trans the downside is that with 4.88s it revs high. About 67 mph I am at 2500 rpm. Going from 225/70R19.5 to 245 will get me to about 70-71 mph at 2500 rpm. So I will do that, I think re-gearing it with less gear is stupid as that will help with the heavy loads. I did contemplate a 6 speed Allison swap but at 12k dollars it doesn't make sense financially and that hotshot hauler claims he runs 2500-2700 rpm all day long without issue. I will pull it and have the 4R100 built locally with a billet converter and put a 4wd output shaft in it so I can get a tcase in there as well.

I originally was going to do the 05+ axle swap but I am impressed with how well the leaf springs ride and I may just sell the 05+ SD60 and go with a 99-04 one. I dont think 99-04 had differences in rotor size, caliper size and R&P size when going to the 450/550 chassis like the 05 and up did. so in theory I should be able to grab any F250 axle.

I am taking care of the drivetrain first then I will get to the door and fender damage from a blowout, aux tanks, tool boxes, I am thinking about painting the bed black instead of white, etc. I just want this thing to be as reliable as possible since getting it towed will be a PITA since shes a big long truck lol
 
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Looks like it'll do exactly what you were looking for. Decent score.

I am thinking about painting the bed black instead of white,

I'm not a fan of black beds. Need to climb up into the towed vehicle/onto the bed for whatever reason and it's like walking on a hotplate. No shorts, no ungloved hands, don't lean on it... years ago on my Dads rollback we went with a medium grey. Not as blinding like white, but not as burn your ass as black.
 
I'm not a fan of black beds. Need to climb up into the towed vehicle/onto the bed for whatever reason and it's like walking on a hotplate. No shorts, no ungloved hands, don't lean on it... years ago on my Dads rollback we went with a medium grey. Not as blinding like white, but not as burn your ass as black.

X2

I have a black flatbed, it's a frying pan.

Also, awesome project.
 
For the hpop lines, get some made at a local hydro place.

You need to get the ORB-5 to -8 JIC adapters.

2 lines, ~16" long, 90° fitting on one end, straight on the other.

Then get a third line for a spare.

Should cost ~$80 for 3 lines and 4 adapters. Combined with a 3" adjustable wrench, and you can fix a blown line in 30 minutes on the side of the road. And you can get a new hose made anywhere.

PS hose 90° fitting goes on the pump
DS hose 90° fitting goes on the head.
 
Sweet project.

Fwiw, if you ha ent noticed 05+ 450-550 is 10 lug and
​​​​ your truck is 8 lug.

One huge benefit with the 05+ and 9000 inch wheel base is steering angle. It's really impressive how sharp they get a big truck to turn.
 
Thanks guys, good point on the black. I didnt think of that.

I bought some CNC fab HPOP lines, since I had a CNC fab stage 2 HPOP coming from them but its a good idea to grab a spare.

I would have to redrill the dually pattern from 10 lug to 8 lug which would suck, track down coil spring parts. I think it would be nice to get the better steering angle but I am not sure its worth all the other BS. Ride quality is pretty damn good for what it is and thats probably because the wheelbase is 201in long so ride quality from coil springs isnt a huge benefit in my case, more the steering angle and bigger brakes.
 
Thanks guys, good point on the black. I didnt think of that.

I bought some CNC fab HPOP lines, since I had a CNC fab stage 2 HPOP coming from them but its a good idea to grab a spare.

I would have to redrill the dually pattern from 10 lug to 8 lug which would suck, track down coil spring parts. I think it would be nice to get the better steering angle but I am not sure its worth all the other BS. Ride quality is pretty damn good for what it is and thats probably because the wheelbase is 201in long so ride quality from coil springs isnt a huge benefit in my case, more the steering angle and bigger brakes.

IIRC those are the bolt on dually adapters. You might be able to use the 00 adapters on the 05-16 axle since they both have 8x170 as the UB pattern.

I get what you're saying though with leaf vs coil.

Another thought, I'm not sure on much differences in the 250-350 vs 450-550 front in 99-04. You might be able to get an F350 D60 and add your current 00 outers. Iirc, they are basically all the same parts, just with no center section or axle shafts.
​​​​​​
 
Well....would have been easier to help before you made your choices.
Been modding 7.3's since 99.
At this point do yourself a HUGE favor and get TW custom tunes on a Hydra from https://www.totaldieselperformance.com/
PHP and 99% of the others are not good tuners. driven trucks with them all.

Flame on...
 
IIRC those are the bolt on dually adapters. You might be able to use the 00 adapters on the 05-16 axle since they both have 8x170 as the UB pattern.

I get what you're saying though with leaf vs coil.

Another thought, I'm not sure on much differences in the 250-350 vs 450-550 front in 99-04. You might be able to get an F350 D60 and add your current 00 outers. Iirc, they are basically all the same parts, just with no center section or axle shafts.
​​​​​​


Yeah I think I can use a regular ole f250-f350 axle from 99-04 I believe they were the same. 05+ had differences in housing casting and C’s and brake calipers from the 250/350 to 450/550

idk why I can’t quote 2 damn posts at once on my phone but GGRR I will get turbo pics soon!
 
You are gonna love the T4/S3XX turbo, great call skip all the BS drop ins and wheels.

You have a good plan on the engine and tuner, you might find out the injection PW is stupid on the PHP tunes but if you have the oil via the CNC pump it might not be as bad as stock.
Good tunes make a huge difference but getting the good tunes was easier said than done in my experience.
I used Gear Head and had very mixed reviews and by the end of that experience I sort of wished I just had my money back...
 
my experience with 99-04 F450s:

I much prefer 4.30s over 4.88s. When OD kick in at 45mph with 4.88s, it really leaves you wanting more. the 4.30s is a nice compromise.

The UBs are the exact same, all 8x170. That era had a goofy 8 lug pattern specific to that generation, its just adapters. closing in on 400k is a fuckload of miles for a DT444e that worked its whole life, but it sounds like your dumping $7k into the engine, so it may hold up. Drop another $3k into the trans.

Definitely needs a NP205 :flipoff2:
 
One huge benefit with the 05+ and 9000 inch wheel base is steering angle. It's really impressive how sharp they get a big truck to turn.

this, especially with the wide track width axle that you've got
look at how far the ball joints are away from the radius arm mounts, now compare that to the dimension from the ball joints to the leaf spring perches on the 04&down axle
there's an ENORMOUS difference in steering angle there
 
I dig this build, sub'd

do the 450/550 have the same stupid plastic pickup foot and screens as the pickups do?
if so doit on the cheap with a piece of coated steel brake line bent to a 90*, compression fittings and some rated hose.
throw a wix 33972 inline prefilter in front of lift pump.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...itle_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=91812054244-20

Thanks, I am not sure if they do. I have looked into it but no answer on that yet.

You are gonna love the T4/S3XX turbo, great call skip all the BS drop ins and wheels.

You have a good plan on the engine and tuner, you might find out the injection PW is stupid on the PHP tunes but if you have the oil via the CNC pump it might not be as bad as stock.
Good tunes make a huge difference but getting the good tunes was easier said than done in my experience.
I used Gear Head and had very mixed reviews and by the end of that experience I sort of wished I just had my money back...

Thanks, I think in the long run I will be happier, or so I hope. I am trying out 1023 diesel tunes, I have heard good things but we will see.

my experience with 99-04 F450s:

I much prefer 4.30s over 4.88s. When OD kick in at 45mph with 4.88s, it really leaves you wanting more. the 4.30s is a nice compromise.

The UBs are the exact same, all 8x170. That era had a goofy 8 lug pattern specific to that generation, its just adapters. closing in on 400k is a fuckload of miles for a DT444e that worked its whole life, but it sounds like your dumping $7k into the engine, so it may hold up. Drop another $3k into the trans.

Definitely needs a NP205 :flipoff2:

LOL, I did think about a divorced NP205 for this but since I will build the trans I will probably just swap out for a 4wd output shaft and pick up a factory t case.

I am in the motor around 5k $1,395 for injectors $2,749 for the T4 kit with turbo, $685 for the HPOP, $1XX for HPOP lines, $299 for the PHP I think, the LPOP was cheap. Pure fucking stupidity but with the purchase price of 5k and selling a trailer for $800 I started off $4200 in the hole. I'm curious what actually fails with these motors and causes people to get rid of them? I dont think Ill be making enough power to need head studs but again 400k is a lot so maybe something internal? I seriously have thought about how this has spiraled out of control and questioned "was it worth it?" Should I have just picked up a 2012-2013 F450-550 for 30-35k and called it good.

I struggled to find a 16 ft bed. A 12 ft bed is common so I probably would have had to spend some money on doing a 4ft dove or something along those lines. I will probably continue to question it as I go down this rabbit hole. This guy I follow on instagram runs the same injectors and turbo I have and hot shots on the east coast. He tows between 28-37k gross daily and lets that motor rev to 2700 RPM all damn day! Pretty wild....Hes got 430k on the chassis, he pulled the motor at 400k. It ran, but needed some work. He said it was cheaper and less downtime for him to swap in another 7.3 and swap the parts over. Since hes a hotshotter and time is money for him it was just quicker.

I hope the engine doesn't take a shit on me far from home but its got no blow by and I am replacing a lot of stuff that would go before the motor does.

I am on the fence about different gears. Dana S135 gears are pricey as hell at 1k+ and I feel the 4.88s help get this heavy pig off the line and take stress off the trans but revving out sucks too. Its weird Ford went with a small axle after the S135, maybe it was too much overkill?

[486 said:
;n135414]

this, especially with the wide track width axle that you've got
look at how far the ball joints are away from the radius arm mounts, now compare that to the dimension from the ball joints to the leaf spring perches on the 04&down axle
there's an ENORMOUS difference in steering angle there

Yeah, that alone might be worth the 05+ axle swap. The nice thing about the 99-04 is that it will bolt in, and it will still fit in my garage. Going to radius arms and coils may lift it, it may not, it will cost quite a bit more. I am on the fence right now.


This whole build has snowballed. 4x4's, specifically jeeps are Just Empty Every Pocket. I am learning that diesels are empty your bank account. I have injectors on the way and can document all of that soon. The only thing about the cost that makes me feel a little bit better is that I am not one to flip vehicles. my friends have all owned a shit ton of vehicles, I am not saying thats a bad thing I am just different when it comes to that. I have owned 1, the H3 that I built. It's probably going to the grave with me if it doesn't disintegrate before then and this is probably the same. After the engine I will throw too much money and sprucing up the exterior and interior and aux tanks and tool boxes and just have one big overspent shitbox but I will be glad that I have 2 vehicles when I am in the middle of nowhere going on wheeling trips. If one shits the bed I still have the other to run parts or get me home to come up with a plan on how to get this 30ft thing home. I thought I was a badass driving 2.5 hours to hammers from socal in a caravan of vehicles, if you have problems you have part stores, friends nearby and cell service. Its a whole new ball game going through Central Nevada with the nearest part store being 100's of miles away by yourself with no cell service.
 
I am on the fence about different gears. Dana S135 gears are pricey as hell at 1k+ and I feel the 4.88s help get this heavy pig off the line and take stress off the trans but revving out sucks too. Its weird Ford went with a small axle after the S135, maybe it was too much overkill?


The nice thing about the 99-04 is that it will bolt in, and it will still fit in my garage.
Don't go with stupid gears, it ain't a 14 liter inline, let it rev.

You measure the new axle to see if the studs actually stick out further than the duals?
 
regarding the 05 front axle...

when i did this swap on my excursion i did notice that steering radius was much tighter, cornering was majorly improved, as well as braking. i would totally do an 05 front axle over a 99-04 again. the parts needed for the swap are... steering box, coil buckets, sway bar, radius arms and mounts, and all the hardware. you will also need to come up with a hydraulic hose going from the gear box to the hydrobooster. for mine i used one from an 06 f350 for the gear box side and the other end was from teh excurison with a compression fitting to splice it.
 
I am in the motor around 5k $1,395 for injectors $2,749 for the T4 kit with turbo, $685 for the HPOP, $1XX for HPOP lines, $299 for the PHP I think, the LPOP was cheap. Pure fucking stupidity but with the purchase price of 5k and selling a trailer for $800 I started off $4200 in the hole. I'm curious what actually fails with these motors and causes people to get rid of them? I dont think Ill be making enough power to need head studs but again 400k is a lot so maybe something internal? I seriously have thought about how this has spiraled out of control and questioned "was it worth it?" Should I have just picked up a 2012-2013 F450-550 for 30-35k and called it good.

I struggled to find a 16 ft bed. A 12 ft bed is common so I probably would have had to spend some money on doing a 4ft dove or something along those lines. I will probably continue to question it as I go down this rabbit hole. This guy I follow on instagram runs the same injectors and turbo I have and hot shots on the east coast. He tows between 28-37k gross daily and lets that motor rev to 2700 RPM all damn day! Pretty wild....Hes got 430k on the chassis, he pulled the motor at 400k. It ran, but needed some work. He said it was cheaper and less downtime for him to swap in another 7.3 and swap the parts over. Since hes a hotshotter and time is money for him it was just quicker.

I hope the engine doesn't take a shit on me far from home but its got no blow by and I am replacing a lot of stuff that would go before the motor does.

I am on the fence about different gears. Dana .

.

The bottom end is pretty bullet proof sub 500hp with good tuning. I would try and shoot for 400rwhp with out stupid cylinder pressure or fucked up timing (tuning). It should have forged rods but I would try and check that just to be sure. PMR rods have come back around to be not as bad as first thought if you drive it like a V8 not a inline.

You haven't mentioned IDM or CPS but both of those would be on my list of proactive replacements with a spare CPS in the glove box.

Get a cheap Android tablet and Torque pro for monitoring/logging and a pyrometer.

The guys I used to run with that switched to T4/S3XX turbos say it is like a whole new engine even on stock fueling.

Buy good oil and change it often, HEUI engines are hell on oil.
 
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What modifications do you have to your 7.3?

Depends on which one..best running truck I owned had 160/80's, moddedH2e, Billet HPOP, custom fuel system, studs etc.
It put down 510RWH on Brians @BTS dyno. 3.73's, 35's got 20mpg's doing 70mph and 0-60 5.5 sec 5psi boosted 2wd launch.
hardly any smoke ever and towed great.
 
Thanks, I am not sure if they do. I have looked into it but no answer on that yet.



Thanks, I think in the long run I will be happier, or so I hope. I am trying out 1023 diesel tunes, I have heard good things but we will see.



LOL, I did think about a divorced NP205 for this but since I will build the trans I will probably just swap out for a 4wd output shaft and pick up a factory t case.

I am in the motor around 5k $1,395 for injectors $2,749 for the T4 kit with turbo, $685 for the HPOP, $1XX for HPOP lines, $299 for the PHP I think, the LPOP was cheap. Pure fucking stupidity but with the purchase price of 5k and selling a trailer for $800 I started off $4200 in the hole. I'm curious what actually fails with these motors and causes people to get rid of them? I dont think Ill be making enough power to need head studs but again 400k is a lot so maybe something internal? I seriously have thought about how this has spiraled out of control and questioned "was it worth it?" Should I have just picked up a 2012-2013 F450-550 for 30-35k and called it good.

I struggled to find a 16 ft bed. A 12 ft bed is common so I probably would have had to spend some money on doing a 4ft dove or something along those lines. I will probably continue to question it as I go down this rabbit hole. This guy I follow on instagram runs the same injectors and turbo I have and hot shots on the east coast. He tows between 28-37k gross daily and lets that motor rev to 2700 RPM all damn day! Pretty wild....Hes got 430k on the chassis, he pulled the motor at 400k. It ran, but needed some work. He said it was cheaper and less downtime for him to swap in another 7.3 and swap the parts over. Since hes a hotshotter and time is money for him it was just quicker.

I hope the engine doesn't take a shit on me far from home but its got no blow by and I am replacing a lot of stuff that would go before the motor does.

I am on the fence about different gears. Dana S135 gears are pricey as hell at 1k+ and I feel the 4.88s help get this heavy pig off the line and take stress off the trans but revving out sucks too. Its weird Ford went with a small axle after the S135, maybe it was too much overkill?



Yeah, that alone might be worth the 05+ axle swap. The nice thing about the 99-04 is that it will bolt in, and it will still fit in my garage. Going to radius arms and coils may lift it, it may not, it will cost quite a bit more. I am on the fence right now.


This whole build has snowballed. 4x4's, specifically jeeps are Just Empty Every Pocket. I am learning that diesels are empty your bank account. I have injectors on the way and can document all of that soon. The only thing about the cost that makes me feel a little bit better is that I am not one to flip vehicles. my friends have all owned a shit ton of vehicles, I am not saying thats a bad thing I am just different when it comes to that. I have owned 1, the H3 that I built. It's probably going to the grave with me if it doesn't disintegrate before then and this is probably the same. After the engine I will throw too much money and sprucing up the exterior and interior and aux tanks and tool boxes and just have one big overspent shitbox but I will be glad that I have 2 vehicles when I am in the middle of nowhere going on wheeling trips. If one shits the bed I still have the other to run parts or get me home to come up with a plan on how to get this 30ft thing home. I thought I was a badass driving 2.5 hours to hammers from socal in a caravan of vehicles, if you have problems you have part stores, friends nearby and cell service. Its a whole new ball game going through Central Nevada with the nearest part store being 100's of miles away by yourself with no cell service.

let it sing, the rpms will be fine, these are like the old idi's, they are good to go at governed speed all day long

Id throw one of these in toolbox too- https://www.dieselorings.com/review/product/list/id/159/
check the ps pressure hose where it can rub on shock tower, if its not bad sleeve it with heater hose, or replace it, those can leave you stranded no brake or steering, id do tensioner and idler pulleys or at least the bearings too if they are original. Stick a 3/4" pex ball valve to shut off the water to the heater core for 6-8*cooler ac,

Im sure you know about where the 40 pin harness rubs the v/c?

Ya you could go with a 10 yr old 6.7, for that $, but that the age where they start needing cp4's, injectors, lift pump- then while your in there might as well water pumps etc etec etc. Just did my bosses 2014 with 210k, cost about 7 grand. Apparently got one bad load of fuel and wiped out cp4 and contaminated everything. did tensioners, belts water pumps etc while in there.
 
Its a shame a 6R140 stand alone controller hasn't been released yet, problems solved.
 
With the front end having the double carden joints, it may be a front wheel drive low floor shuttle bus with a drop axle for rear wheel chair access, just ID it well for parts availability and know that it was under power full-time
 
Its a shame a 6R140 stand alone controller hasn't been released yet, problems solved.

No kidding, I hate older 4 spd autos for towing. The 4.88s and double OD would be a great performer.

They 5r110 is a pretty tough trans, but I remember reading that they could never get them to work great as a stand alone.

Speaking of newer 6 spds, I wonder if anyone makes a 7.3 adapter for a 6l80e/6l90e?
 
No kidding, I hate older 4 spd autos for towing. The 4.88s and double OD would be a great performer.

They 5r110 is a pretty tough trans, but I remember reading that they could never get them to work great as a stand alone.

Speaking of newer 6 spds, I wonder if anyone makes a 7.3 adapter for a 6l80e/6l90e?

thatd be really cool. keeping a 7.3l in its powerband completely changes it. these newer autos with 8 and 10 speeds should have happened a lot sooner in the diesel world.
 
The bottom end is pretty bullet proof sub 500hp with good tuning. I would try and shoot for 400rwhp with out stupid cylinder pressure or fucked up timing (tuning). It should have forged rods but I would try and check that just to be sure. PMR rods have come back around to be not as bad as first thought if you drive it like a V8 not a inline.

You haven't mentioned IDM or CPS but both of those would be on my list of proactive replacements with a spare CPS in the glove box.

Get a cheap Android tablet and Torque pro for monitoring/logging and a pyrometer.

The guys I used to run with that switched to T4/S3XX turbos say it is like a whole new engine even on stock fueling.

Buy good oil and change it often, HEUI engines are hell on oil.

let it sing, the rpms will be fine, these are like the old idi's, they are good to go at governed speed all day long

Id throw one of these in toolbox too- https://www.dieselorings.com/review/product/list/id/159/
check the ps pressure hose where it can rub on shock tower, if its not bad sleeve it with heater hose, or replace it, those can leave you stranded no brake or steering, id do tensioner and idler pulleys or at least the bearings too if they are original. Stick a 3/4" pex ball valve to shut off the water to the heater core for 6-8*cooler ac,

Im sure you know about where the 40 pin harness rubs the v/c?

Ya you could go with a 10 yr old 6.7, for that $, but that the age where they start needing cp4's, injectors, lift pump- then while your in there might as well water pumps etc etec etc. Just did my bosses 2014 with 210k, cost about 7 grand. Apparently got one bad load of fuel and wiped out cp4 and contaminated everything. did tensioners, belts water pumps etc while in there.

Good points on spare things to carry. I do not have a spare CPS yet but do plan to get one. I do have a spare IPR. the ICP is a non issue as I can unplug it if it fails.

I havent addressed the IDM, PS hose, or 40 pin harness rubbing location. Any other things to look into to? I keep looking into common failure points so I can address it but keep finding more things to address lol. I will look into the o ring kit and I will check the rods when I start the teardown.

Its a shame a 6R140 stand alone controller hasn't been released yet, problems solved.

No kidding, I hate older 4 spd autos for towing. The 4.88s and double OD would be a great performer.

They 5r110 is a pretty tough trans, but I remember reading that they could never get them to work great as a stand alone.

Speaking of newer 6 spds, I wonder if anyone makes a 7.3 adapter for a 6l80e/6l90e?

They’ve been coming with 8+ gears for a long time. They just didn’t come with the easy mode until recently :flipoff2:

I have looked high and low for just about every transmission option out there. I found a 4x4 ZF6 for 1k. I would need to do a SB clutch but from a gearing standpoint I dont see a huge benefit looking at the ratios other then take off but personal experience could change my opinon, on paper I dont see it. I will be on the highway 95% of the time. the allison 1000 conversion by CAC is badass but HORRIBLY expensive at 11k, it would allow 5th gear to be identical to the 4th gear of the 4R100 and a cruising rpm unloaded, lower first gear, etc. but expensive. Looked at medium duty stuff. I would be concerned about a 6l80 or 90 handling the low end TQ since that trans was behind gassers. I would like the 6R140 but I dont think it has come out yet for standalone applications. Each setup I look at I keep going back to just dropping off the 4R100 at Bowman trans and running it. With the 4.88s and a 32-33 its so overgeared it hits OD relatively quickly. Between 2000 and 2500 rpm my speed in 4th gear is 56 mph to 70 mph. 3200 rpm redline in 3rd gear is 64 mph. While it sucks I dont have a super low OD like .61 in an allison 6 speed when cruising empty I think loaded the 4 speed will just live in 4th gear unless I get under 55 mph, or so I'd hope.

With the front end having the double carden joints, it may be a front wheel drive low floor shuttle bus with a drop axle for rear wheel chair access, just ID it well for parts availability and know that it was under power full-time

Yeah, I contemplated rebuilding it but I only envision using it when on dirt roads setting up camp so its 4wd time is minimal.

Here are some pics as I am lagging on any actual change....but its coming soon! Injectors are supposed to ship tomorrow or Tuesday.

Back seat is getting full of parts

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riff raffs injector cup kit is badass.

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Just waiting on the injectors but I plan to start tearing things down this week and hopefully get the injectors here by Friday.
 
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