blakes
Red Skull Member
are you 100% sure on that?Tach needle does not move until engine fires.
Immediately after replacing the ignition module, the tach DID indicate ~200 rpms for a couple of seconds on the first crank. Nothing since.
are you 100% sure on that?Tach needle does not move until engine fires.
We’re just fake internet people, you are the one who’s there so I’m not questioning what you saw.are you 100% sure on that?
Immediately after replacing the ignition module, the tach DID indicate ~200 rpms for a couple of seconds on the first crank. Nothing since.
Yes 100% sure my tach does not move until engine fires.are you 100% sure on that?
Immediately after replacing the ignition module, the tach DID indicate ~200 rpms for a couple of seconds on the first crank. Nothing since.
I have spent much of the day on this.Yes 100% sure my tach does not move until engine fires.
Take a plug out to physically see if you have spark.
Or take the coil lead and stick your finger in the end and have someone crank to see if you have spark.
Seriously, start by physically checking for spark at the plugs then work your way back.
Cardboard creeper with tarp underneath if on snow/ground.I have spent much of the day on this.
I think you are right about the tach not moving until the engine fires.
Here is what I have done:
I reconnected everything and attempted to start. The tach didn't move, but the engine DID attempt to start and sputtered. The tach moved up while the engine was sputtering.
- cleaned up and checked various wiring including grounds. I wanted to rule out any mouse damage as this sits in a my shop with a mouse problem. None found although there is a harness resting under the steering column on a tubular steel support and a couple of those wires may have rubbed through very slightly. Took care of that.
- physically pulled the coil assembly/bracket that includes the ignition module. The coil ohmed out at 660 using my cheap tester with only one ohm setting. I thoroughly cleaned the two holes where I think the coil bracket makes ground to the intake plenum. These were dirty and not making good contact.
- charged both batteries on my solar for several hours. They got to full float. This also means the PCM was without any power for several hours.
I sprayed 5 seconds worth of starting fluid directly into the top hole where the plastic vortec cover goes near the the throttle body. The engine sputtered and the tach moved.
So now I think I have a fuel problem even though the fuel pump does come on when I turn on the key and with HP tuner manual control. I changed the fuel filter last year. The truck did sit for a couple of years prior to me buying it. I suppose crud could have clogged the fuel filter or I got a bad fuel pressure regulator.... I need to find my fuel pressure tester and test fuel pressure...
Does anyone know if a vortec 454 will actually start on starting fluid? I've never seen an engine NOT start on starting fluid assuming all else checks out, but don't know about engines that have direct injection....
Cardboard creeper with tarp underneath if on snow/ground.
Disconnect line past fuel filter towards the engine, put a small bucket under it all. Some rags wrapped in there to soak up the spray.
Ignition on, should prime the pump and send fuel to injectors. If fuel is coming out of filter, reconnect. Test the fuel line at the motor. Go from there.
You rubbing your toe in the dirt? Hat in hand with head hung down?Root cause: out of gas
Flame away
Moot point now, I was merely after making sure there is flow of fuel from the tank, OP said filter might be clogged. Hence the suggestion I made.Needs 60psi. I had my 5.7 stop running because the pump would only hit 50psi.
Put a fuel pressure gauge on it.
That doesn't say anything about pressure. It's not a carb, you actually have to put a gauge on it.
Moot point now, I was merely after making sure there is flow of fuel from the tank, OP said filter might be clogged. Hence the suggestion I made.
Then again we might have all dodged a bullet, with his out of gas update - perhaps he would have lit a cigarette while under there, you know to see better hahaha
I honestly didn't know about the scrader valve on the fuel rail.
What I don't understand is why it didn't start on starter fluid????
I honestly didn't know about the scrader valve on the fuel rail.
What I don't understand is why it didn't start on starter fluid????
Because the starting fluid you buy these days sucks ass. If you don't believe me, spray a puddle of it in the ground and look ight it on fire, and see how lazily it burns.
Get a can of the John Deere stuff from the dealer. Spendy, but much higher ratio of ether. Works way better.Because the starting fluid you buy these days sucks ass. If you don't believe me, spray a puddle of it in the ground and look ight it on fire, and see how lazily it burns.
Yep. Went thru all of that, 96 Tahoe 5.7 Vortec. After replacing a known bad starter (broken nose cone). And a suspected, proven true, bad fuel pump. Some good vids on uTuber for this.Just to clarify the fuel pump relay/oil pressure sensor stuff for someone else reading through this with similar issues.
The fuel pump relay is turned on (by the computer) for about two seconds when you turn your key on. This is done to prime the system. It doesn't run until it hits a certain pressure or anything, its just on for two seconds then off, thats it. Once you start the engine, the oil pressure switch (three wires, one is for the oil pressure gauge, one is power in, one is power out) closes when it sees oil pressure. This is where your fuel pump gets its power to run while the engine is running. A bad oil pressure switch cannot cause a no spark situation, nor will it cause a no fuel pressure before you start it situation.
Zip ties and bias plies agrees.Get a can of the John Deere stuff from the dealer. Spendy, but much higher ratio of ether. Works way better.