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Will's "$600" Wagoneer

wt91

Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2022
Member Number
5104
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23
I've lurked a lot and posted a little bit here and there, but this is my first thread. Migrating over from the various FSJ forums as they're mainly catered more towards "stock-ish" trucks and I've departed pretty far by now.

Had this jeep for about 13 years now. Before this had a 1994 Explorer I SAS'd and wheeled til it got totaled.

Bought the Wag back during Cash for Clunkers for $600 and saved it from Obama. Had to race another buyer there who was buying it just to turn it in for the $4000 or whatever trade in credit.

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Jeep was stock when I bought it, didn't stay that way long. Kept the Wag dana 44's, spring over front shackle flip rear with shitty crown stock replacement springs. 1 ton tre high steer, cut and turn on the front axle, 4.10 gears, zip locker up front lockright in the rear sitting on 33s at first and now 35's. Wheeled it this way for a good while. Most of the jeeps in the club lineup are long gone by now, some of the owners are too. The original idea was a daily driver/weekend warrior, that needed to carry up to 4 people and their gear for a weekend of camping and medium offroad action.

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Original AMC 360 was tired after a few years and had a good rod knock. Had a dodge 440 sitting around in a rotten motor home in my buddy's front yard, had 18k miles on it. Pulled that, rebuilt it with some go-fast stuff, dropped it in the Wagoneer. To make it work in the Wag, took the AMC 727 and the Mopar big block 2wd 727 and frankensteined them together to make a 440 bellhousing jeep transfercase tailhousing 727, and dropped in a manual vb. It worked, sorta. Aluminum rad for the stock 360 + Ford Contour dual electric fans keeps the 440 cool no issues. Brake booster didnt fit, went astrovan hydroboost to clear the valve covers. Used some cheapo block hugger shorty headers to clear the heater box.

Engine was supposed to be 9.5:1, machine shop took a bit much off the deck so in reality I think its closer to 9.8:1. Comp cams XE250H, 906 heads, "six pack" pistons, forged crank. In retrospect, should've gone with a bigger cam, but it does make great low end power.

After a few years of fighting with DIY TBI, back to carb, not being happy, I said F it and dropped MPFI on it along with an engine bay rewiring. Its still not pretty, but the electricals work and it doesn't try to catch on fire randomly anymore. (Electrical fires and FSJ's are good friends). It also runs better than it ever has, with either engine.

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The 440 had a wonderful habit of reminding me that the stock FSJ shit was not up to the task of a healthy big block. NP229 expoded. Replaced it with another. Exploded again. Rebuilt a jeep NP208 and stuffed that in there. Not bad, holding up for now...but the risk of explosion always present. Decided to paint it on a whim one day a few years back since it never looked good after pulling the wood vinyl off. I dont think it looks half bad for an idiot with a harbor freight gun and tractor paint.

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The last 6~ years of owning it have been an on-again, off-again, with life and shit so it sits a lot. Haven't gotten to use it as much as I'd like. Always fighting dumb shit. So with the original frankentrans 727 starting to give up, I figured it was time to really reinvent this thing or just send it to the scrapyard in the sky. I had a 7.3 PS tow rig, now I have a 33' Wanderlodge motorcoach tow rig, so the need to carry 4 people and camp out of the Jeep is basically gone. Only reason why I'd drive it to the trail and then tent camp out of it is if that was the purpose of the trip, like a UA style thing. Otherwise I'll enjoy my actual bed in my bus with an actual shitter.

Started by getting an OEM 4x4 big block 727 out of a trailduster, and the matching 203. Got a Ford 205, called up ORD and said "hey I got a weird one for you" and they popped out a dodge 203/ford 205 doubler for me. Got lines on a 2nd RB 4x4 727 + 203 locally, probably gonna pick them up for posterity's sake. Not exactly the most common option.

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Went to the local u-pull-it looking for a Ford D60 to drop in it, found a 2011~ D60 already pulled sitting in a bin of other already pulled parts. Asked the guy how much since it was already pulled, "If it's still in the yard and ain't on the racks; same as if you pulled it outta the yard." $175, I'll take it.

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Looked around for like a month to try and find a 14 bolt, couldn't find anything I like at a cost that didn't suck. Found a takeout 2011~ Sterling 10.5 with an e-locker for $300, sounds good to me. Grabbed that.

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I don't have a big shop, I don't have a lift, I don't have tube benders or a CNC plasma table. My garage is small, the Jeep doesn't fit, and it's mainly a workshop for other hobbies and shit. So this build is gonna happen in the good old outside when its not hateful out, with jackstands, and lots of pissing and moaning. Got a great deal on some 40's the other day, on 8x170's already, so that really lit a fire under me to get this project underway. My overall goal is tons, 40's, and not insanely tall. If possible, I'd like to keep the ass cheeks -> ground distance roughly the same, so I'm prepared to further muderate the sheet metal to make that happen. We'll see.

Front end is gonna be trussed, 3 link, with coils. Thought about coilovers but I'm spending enough as it is. Originally was gonna do thick 4.88's with a lunchbox in the front to save $, got a great deal on a SD D60 ARB that's the 4.10+ carrier, so decided to do 5.38's and that. Lowers are 2.5" OD 1/4 wall DOM, upper is 2" 1/4 or 1.75" .120 depending on my space constraints. Weld-on high steer, probably gonna do redneck hydro-assist.

Rear end I thought about a 4 link but see the above comments about money and pissing and moaning. Decided on 63" (64?) chevy leafs, that'll stretch the WB a bit. Got the leafs for $50 for the pair out of a 00's Chevy truck. Was worried about it being super tall and thought about switching back to a tension-style shackle to drop the height some but decided on trying out the LII leaf slider boxes instead. We'll see how it works out. 5.38's to match the front, keeping the stock ford E-locker. Most likely gonna need a traction bar setup, I'll figure that out once the new trans/doubler crossmember(s) are built and the new rear suspension is mostly done.

Trans is getting rebuilt and a manual VB, but not the crap I bought the first time around. Going with Cope Racing Trans' rock crawler VB with their recommended upgrade parts and a street-hp rebuild kit.

And thats basically it for now. Weather here in NJ has been 100% shit the last 2 weeks, hoping for stuff to clear up so I can do some stuff. In the meantime finishing up rebuilding the 205 to get it off my bench so I can start the 727.
 
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Nice build. I have noticed the FSJ sites are leaning more and more towards factory restoration hipster types. Oh well.
 
Small shop, Big Dreams. Count me in!
I'm glad you saved this one from the shredder.
 
Nice build. I have noticed the FSJ sites are leaning more and more towards factory restoration hipster types. Oh well.

Yeah definitely seems that way. Kinda tired of hearing how you're ruining your jeep from hipster types who's toolbox fit in their wallets. I ruined mine a long time ago 😂

Small shop, Big Dreams. Count me in!
I'm glad you saved this one from the shredder.

Hey, at least this time I've got nice comfy asphalt. Doing the cut and turn and all in the dirt sucked ass.

203/205 rebuilds + doubler are done. Holy cow I am gonna need to work out or something. Good thing I've got a fancy high reach trans jack from doing the MT643 in the bus. Also got the cable shifters in from JB Custom Fab.

Just put in an order with Cope Racing for all the 727 goodies. Probably overkill for my modest 440 but hey what is money anyway.

Hoping to get the trans built in the next two weeks, then get the trans and doubler under so I can start fab work on crossmembers.
 
So, got the trans built with the fancy parts from Cope Racing Trans. I was worried their nice aluminum deep pan they include in their "build it yourself" kit would be too deep and ruin the flat belly of the Wag, but I was able to make it work with the new transmission crossmember. The new crossmember is built using a Barnes crossmember kit + one of their transmission mounting tabs and some 2x2x.1875 wall. Poly bushings between crossmember and frame, rubber donut bushings between transmission and crossmember.

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I very rarely have occasion to weld stuff, so using the crossmember(s) as some refreshing of my skills before tackling the stuff that'll actually kill me if it fails. Like weld on high steer arms or a link mount.

Waiting on Total Metal Innovations to get me my NP205 rear mount kit so I can hang the 203 and 205 and then build the second part of the crossmember(s). My plan is a very similar looking crossmember to that first transmission one, farther aft to support the 205 and a traction bar. I'll have to box the frame back to where this 2nd crossmember will live. Then I want to tie the forward and rear crossmembers together into a single subframe kinda assembly that my belly skid will mount to.

I am hoping TMI will ship that mounting kit out soon, ordered it about a month ago and was told last week by email that it would be shipping "soon". Once the cases are hung and subframe fabrication done, it'll be time to rip out the rear axle and start setting up the new rear suspension.
 
Warms my heart to see Waggys saved. For damn near 30 years of straight production youd think there would be more on the market for not dogshit prices. I blame FIAT :flipoff2:
 
Cool project!

I recall reading somewhere here that theres a change in the Sterling rear axles around 2011 that changes the ring and pinion, thus making 2011+ gearing options unavailable. Could definitely be wrong, but something worth investigating
 
Very cool! I'm in a similar boat with the shop/tools situation. Mine will fit in the shop, but there's barely enough room left over to fart in there.
 
Not a ton to update, its reached the point weather wise where I can't be bothered to lay under a vehicle I work on "for fun". So she's back to sitting. Right before it got cold I got the 205 rebuilt and hung off the 203, took a big chunk out of the floor to maintain my flat belly. Not concerned, the floor can be modified. Got my JB cable shifters and started trying to figure out where I wanted them. Turns out they don't quite fit between the trans and the floor. Not really wanting to do a body lift or anything like that, my mounts and such are all "new", so I drew up and had made by SendcutSend this panel to section out the floor and "raise" the shifter up. Gonna cut a square in the floor, sink this box down into the floor just enough that the hole is filled to follow the contour from the trans tunnel etc. Weld the box into the floor. Then get under the jeep and plasma the excess box off.

Also shown in the pic are frame boxing plates I had SCS bend up out of 3/16" plate. Fit like a glove.

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Just because its too cold to keep working outside doesn't mean I'm doing nothing though.

Got the master install kits and gearsets for the axles. Taking them to a local guy I use for all my installs. I'd do them myself, but see the aforementioned tiny ass shop. I'd be tripping over the damn things for 2 months before I finally dragged them back out to the Jeep.

Cool project!

I recall reading somewhere here that theres a change in the Sterling rear axles around 2011 that changes the ring and pinion, thus making 2011+ gearing options unavailable. Could definitely be wrong, but something worth investigating

Yeah I ended up getting a complete 2008 rear axle for $50 and did a whole little writeup on here on the differences between the 2011+ and the 2008. I am going to run 5.38's in the 2008 housing using the 2011 e-locker.

Warms my heart to see Waggys saved. For damn near 30 years of straight production youd think there would be more on the market for not dogshit prices. I blame FIAT :flipoff2:

Blame Obama, soooooo many got crushed. Then, add the celebrity notion of them being in all TV shows and stuff, and suddenly a clapped out FSJ is $20,000.

Very cool! I'm in a similar boat with the shop/tools situation. Mine will fit in the shop, but there's barely enough room left over to fart in there.

I had mine in physically in the garage like twice in the 7~ years I've owned this property. Barely enough room left to fart is the right description. Both times were before I even owned a decent size toolbox, because the Jeep wouldn't fit now that I have a big box against the one wall. So I said F it and just workbenched the walls + a nice workbench island out into the middle to give tons of workspace and its a workshop now.
 
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I was wondering how you got that 205 flat without cutting or a body lift. I have to re-clock mine and cut the floor. It hanging down is bugging me.
 
I was wondering how you got that 205 flat without cutting or a body lift. I have to re-clock mine and cut the floor. It hanging down is bugging me.

The annoying thing with cutting the floor is it mainly interferes with the driver seat, passenger side slider rail, if using a stock seat/seat mechanism.

I'm tall and not skinny, I have had the seat at its maximum rear travel + maximum "down" travel since I've owned the Jeep. So rigidly mounting it there doesn't bother me. I'd also like to do a roof chop + cage eventually, which will result in actual seats and harnesses, so it'll become even less of an issue then.
 
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