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What is your beadlock maintenance interval

justanotherguy

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2022
Member Number
4661
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5
How often do you need to check torque on beadlocks if daily driven?

Is it something that can wait until every tire rotation or do you check every wheeling trip out?
 
justanotherguy said:
How often do you need to check torque on beadlocks if daily driven?

Is it something that can wait until every tire rotation or do you check every wheeling trip out?
Click to expand...

I've never checked mine after initial installation and have gone through 2 separate sets of tires over 80k miles with no issues. I don't use a torque wrench either, a Milwaukee 3/8 impact set on 1/2 throttle and keep going around in a star pattern until all the bolts are tight works every time for me.

YRMV :flipoff2:
 
I prefer nylock nuts on mine rather than tapping the inner ring. Keeps'em snug.
..and I only ever mount them once and be done. Never torqued or re-torqued - just ugga dugga til snug and leak free :flipoff2:
 
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I drove H1s for years without doing anything other than checking pressure.
 
Who actually checks the torque on allllll those bolts? Probably nobody I suspect.
 
Daily drove on Raceline beadlocks for years. The ones on my 4Runner probably saw 30-40K miles before I got rid of it.

Checked the ring bolt torque (off the vehicle) once a year when doing all the other in depth maintenance.
 
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Depends what you’re doing I guess. Ultra4 racing, I’ll start backing off beadlock bolts in 2 or 3 races if I forget to check them, worst thing is when you forget, and they all get loose enough to where 10 of them snap off during a race (happened to me at Ultra4 Nats one year). On the street, pretty much never unless I start losing tire psi
 
Just finished setting up my Spyderlock bead locks so this is good Info. I torqued all to 250 in lbs and called it good.

These were used, I've seen some people saying to replace the hardware every year? Do ya bother with that?

Its not like these Allen head cap screws are over torqued.
 
Crap, I guess I'm in the minority.

I torque every beadlock bolt in 3 separate stages, in the designated pattern.

I never check the Huthinson beadlocks after assembly. They have a proper bolted joint abutment and shouldn't fatigue the bolts. I've never had one come loose in over 25 years running them.

The vision beadlocks I've only owned for a year and a half. They have spacers between the rim and the outer flange and are close to a proper bolted joint. I've put approximately 5000 miles on the Jeep including 5 wheeling trips. I've checked the bolt torque twice in that time and only snugged a couple bolts a tiny amount.

Beadlocks that "coin", deform the outer ring, or leave a gap between the ring and the wheel are MUCH more likely to loose torque and break bolts. I'd probably check them more often until I'm comfortable knowing how them respond.

I drive my Jeep on the road to the trails sometimes. One trip was over 1400 miles in 6 days including 4 days of wheeling.
 
justanotherguy said:
How often do you need to check torque on beadlocks if daily driven?

Is it something that can wait until every tire rotation or do you check every wheeling trip out?
Click to expand...
i check my hutchinsons every tire rotation. it took me a couple times to get the ceramic bead weight right, so i had to unmount them a couple times.
its pretty easy to hit them with the 100ft/lb from the web instructions.
initially the covers for the bolts scared me that i could not visually inspect the nuts, so i started checking and just haven't stopped. .
 
I've checked my MRT steelies thrice in 20 yrs... each time was new tires. Never had a problem. Not 100% DD but weekends for sure.
 
I just set up a set on my daily, did the star pattern, then two passes around the circle for initial set up, watching air pressure now, and will probable hit them again in 6 months and adjust from there.
but good to hear what everyone else is doing
 
Lilyota said:
Were supposed to check that stuff:laughing:
Click to expand...
i am with you, hell the tires i am running i got used and they were mounted on beat locks and i can honestly say i never check one bolt and that was a solid 2 years ago. but it not driven on the street. :beer::grinpimp::lmao:
 
Torqued mine when I built the wheels in '13. Haven't touched anything since then. One tire is certainly flat, I can fit my hand through the sidewall. All will be replaced this year from wear.
 
Winchested said:
Just finished setting up my Spyderlock bead locks so this is good Info. I torqued all to 250 in lbs and called it good.

These were used, I've seen some people saying to replace the hardware every year? Do ya bother with that?

Its not like these Allen head cap screws are over torqued.
Click to expand...

My last set was used Spyderlocks. I pulled out a few of the inserts and the hardware looked like shit after being 5ish years old so I replaced the bolts, and the inserts that came out.

I used anti-seize and torqued them to 20ft-lb AKA 240in-lb. I think my torque stages were:

1 - Snug the ring flush to the mounting flange
2 - Light ugga duggas from my 1/4" Fuel impact driver in a kinda star-ish pattern
3 - Step 2 but with heavier ugga duggas
4 - Torque wrench to 20ft-lb in a star-ish pattern until they are all clicking, then in a circle to finish it off.
 
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Yotota said:
My last set was used Spyderlocks. I pulled out a few of the inserts and the hardware looked like shit after being 5ish years old so I replaced the bolts, and the inserts that came out.

I used anti-seize and torqued them to 20ft-lb AKA 240in-lb. I think my torque stages were:

1 - Snug the ring flush to the mounting flange
2 - Light ugga duggas from my 1/4" Fuel impact driver in a kinda star-ish pattern
3 - Step 2 but with heavier ugga duggas
4 - Torque wrench to 20ft-lb in a star-ish pattern until they are all clicking, then in a circle to finish it off.
Click to expand...

I did the same just no anti-seize. None of the inserts came out.
 
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