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What did you do to your GM today?

PAToyota said:
After 2000, I started telling people I didn't have a vehicle from the current century. Then I realized I didn't have a vehicle from the current millennium! :lmao:

Still holds true, by the way...
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My pride till i bought the 04 burban, i bought over xmas break.

My dodge was a 99
F350 99
Multiple square bodys.
71 and 70 gm
66 gm
56 gm.

Totalgirlfriend has a 17 subaru and technicaly its mine also but only on paper. Fuck i hate that thing.
 
Ceramic coated done, time put it in the s10 :dustin:



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Front pads and rotors on my '04 2500 Yukon. Wheels were seized to the hubs and took some persuading to get off, but other than that, pretty trouble free job.
 
Are these M1010?? any good?

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Beater truck got some more love. The u-bolts had seen better days. 14 bolt got a new pinion seal and the cover painted. Rear bumpstops departed recently so it got some used timbrens

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91 c3500 HD
I installed front recovery/ tow hooks on it. I couldn't locate original hooks for this application so I bought some for a mid 90s s10:laughing:, I redrilled them to match the holes in the frame and welded 1 factory hole up.
Inside of the frame is a 3¼x2 ½ thick plate drilled and tapped. I fucked up the lock washers and may change the bolts to gr8.

They are most likely going to be used to drag the dead truck or light recovery in the case that it gets stuck I realize that they are not heavy duty but before this we (I) was wrapping the chain around the leaf spring. You may notice the bent leaf spring clamps.
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I guess that I also could weld the hooks to a pad then bolt them to the truck.
 
I'll admit I was a little concerned from your initial post but figured you knew what you were doing.

I guess that confidence was misplaced. :laughing:
 
:lmao: Whoops. I was wondering that. Those have never been overly strong and probably even more weak being pull in a direction they were not really designed for.
 
Rttoys said:
:lmao: Whoops. I was wondering that. Those have never been overly strong and probably even more weak being pull in a direction they were not really designed for.
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The GMT400 ones are way better than the S10 ones but still, not sure about a directional pull. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
I'll admit I was a little concerned from your initial post but figured you knew what you were doing.

I guess that confidence was misplaced. :laughing:
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Rttoys said:
:lmao: Whoops. I was wondering that. Those have never been overly strong and probably even more weak being pull in a direction they were not really designed for.
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I knew that I was fucking upbut I don't have much choice on how to mount hooks on this pile. I'm going to try welding them to a ½" thick plate.

They have to be long in order to clear the leaf spring, that's why I went with the ones from a S10.
 
Find CAD file for a "JDM tow hook" and have send cut send make you one out of steel.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Find CAD file for a "JDM tow hook" and have send cut send make you one out of steel.
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The hook was also jerked about 7mph with 5' of slack in the chain, apparently my worker doesn't know what "don't jerk it" means.

I will look into that, a thought that I just had was I'm pretty sure that this is a motor home chassis. I have family with a dead one, I'm going to check it out.
 
Chasing a misfire on #7 cylinder on my 2008 2500hd. Non afm motor.
Checked compression but only on the 1,3,5,7 cylinders. 155 on 1,3,5. 140 on #7. Pulled the injectors and gonna swap one from another cylinder and see if the code moves.

Moved the coil, and swapped the wire, code didn't move. But I haven't checked the actual connector to the coil on #7.

I do hear a tick as well but it could be the torque converter, it doesn't sound consistent like a lifter tick but I can really only hear it when I rev it up to about 3500rpm. I have read that these stock TC are known to come apart. We had one in our fleet do that.

Also found some sparkles in my oil filter, i cut the filter and poured some oil into a clean rag and let it set. This is what I got : (
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Motor and truck have 240k.

My gas mileage hasn't changed it's 12 mpg , doesn't have any power issues, no smoke etc. will see where the injector swap gets me, if that doesn't fix it then check the connector to the coil on #7. Hopefully one of those 2 fixes the misfire code. It's not a blinking misfire CEL. And honestly can't tell the difference between my truck and the other trucks in my work fleet as far as acceleration etc. motor seems fine other than the code and the sparkles in the oil.

Edit: I did pull the valve cover and nothing looks out of the norm but I didn't run it to see if the #7 valve train is moving normal. That will also be another trouble shoot step if the injector swap doesn't sort it out for me.
 
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I also don't know if that much sparkle and glisten is normal wear and tear for a 6.0 at 240k. I don't think that much is but I haven't compared it. We have a few of these trucks in our fleet with high mileage like my truck so I'm gonna cut open one of those filters to see. But I think it ain't too good.:frown:

I've put a screw driver to the valve cover and listened while my buddy reved it up but didn't seem to isolate that metal tick noise. I could have a TC issue and maybe a lifter issue at the same time.
 
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Snoop dogg said:
Chasing a misfire on #7 cylinder on my 2008 2500hd. Non afm motor.
Checked compression but only on the 1,3,5,7 cylinders. 155 on 1,3,5. 140 on #7. Pulled the injectors and gonna swap one from another cylinder and see if the code moves.

Moved the coil, and swapped the wire, code didn't move. But I haven't checked the actual connector to the coil on #7.

I do hear a tick as well but it could be the torque converter, it doesn't sound consistent like a lifter tick but I can really only hear it when I rev it up to about 3500rpm. I have read that these stock TC are known to come apart. We had one in our fleet do that.

Also found some sparkles in my oil filter, i cut the filter and poured some oil into a clean rag and let it set. This is what I got : (
Motor and truck have 240k.

My gas mileage hasn't changed it's 12 mpg , doesn't have any power issues, no smoke etc. will see where the injector swap gets me, if that doesn't fix it then check the connector to the coil on #7. Hopefully one of those 2 fixes the misfire code. It's not a blinking misfire CEL. And honestly can't tell the difference between my truck and the other trucks in my work fleet as far as acceleration etc. motor seems fine other than the code and the sparkles in the oil.

Edit: I did pull the valve cover and nothing looks out of the norm but I didn't run it to see if the #7 valve train is moving normal. That will also be another trouble shoot step if the injector swap doesn't sort it out for me.
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Is your compression gauge pumping up oddly on that one cylinder? As in all the others pump up the same, but that one may or may not come up properly, then it will, then won’t? Question your gauge, find another one and same results?

I had one like this that baffled me for a while (09 2500hd 6.0L G engine). No power loss, no shaking no nothing other than an intermittent P0300 misfire. Did the swap trick on plugs, wires, coils, injectors and such. Never changed. Comp test was 150ish on all other and 140 on the bad one (I think #6). Then it was 120, then 150, 90, 150, 130, 120, 150. :flipoff: I decided to pull the head to look at the cam, lifters and cylinder. Ended up with a worn spot on the lifer and cam on that cylinder :shaking: not all around, just in one spot. It would depend on where they met if you had correct compression or not :homer:
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Rttoys said:
Is your compression gauge pumping up oddly on that one cylinder? As in all the others pump up the same, but that one may or may not come up properly, then it will, then won’t? Question your gauge, find another one and same results?

I had one like this that baffled me for a while (09 2500hd 6.0L G engine). No power loss, no shaking no nothing other than an intermittent P0300 misfire. Did the swap trick on plugs, wires, coils, injectors and such. Never changed. Comp test was 150ish on all other and 140 on the bad one (I think #6). Then it was 120, then 150, 90, 150, 130, 120, 150. :flipoff: I decided to pull the head to look at the cam, lifters and cylinder. Ended up with a worn spot on the lifer and cam on that cylinder :shaking: not all around, just in one spot. It would depend on where they met if you had correct compression or not :homer:
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Bingo.

Just about the same experience with the compression test on #7 for me. First test on that cylinder looked fairly normal, but I wasn't exactly paying attention to the first compression stroke. Just did 5 compression strokes and it hit 150 so I felt good. Then the rest were 155 and I actually watched the needle.

1,3,5 were all identical in the way the compression built up. Back to #7 after that and it hit 90 psi first stroke....totally different than the other cylinders. Ran it again...big jump first stroke, then I started to get whacky final compression #s. Like up to 200psi.

I thought something was up with that cylinder. Drove it home and ran the test again and still a big jump on first stroke but consistently landed on 140psi

I did both tests at operating temp.

Edit:
I guess now is a good time to have some fun with this motor and tear it down and put some goodies in it and a tune.
 
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Rttoys said:
Is your compression gauge pumping up oddly on that one cylinder? As in all the others pump up the same, but that one may or may not come up properly, then it will, then won’t? Question your gauge, find another one and same results?

I had one like this that baffled me for a while (09 2500hd 6.0L G engine). No power loss, no shaking no nothing other than an intermittent P0300 misfire. Did the swap trick on plugs, wires, coils, injectors and such. Never changed. Comp test was 150ish on all other and 140 on the bad one (I think #6). Then it was 120, then 150, 90, 150, 130, 120, 150. :flipoff: I decided to pull the head to look at the cam, lifters and cylinder. Ended up with a worn spot on the lifer and cam on that cylinder :shaking: not all around, just in one spot. It would depend on where they met if you had correct compression or not :homer:
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I had the exact same issue on my 09 2500hd 6.0 ly6 engine, 200k miles truck has had a very rough life. Misfire on #6 (swapping every part changed nothing), compression was okay but after reading this probably acting the same, small tick after a while, was getting small shavings in the oil. I finally caught it with an indicator on the rocker arm.
 
Yep yep yep. Not saying that’s it, because there are other possibilities it could be, but it definitely sounds the same as the one I had. That damn thing drove me nuts. When you have “good compression” so that can’t be it, then to swap or replace everything you can think of and it still isn’t right, but running just fine most of the time. Go back to compression and question your gauge. Borrow a buddy’s gauge and it’s still odd, but not bad, then say fuck it, I’m buying a new good one and it’s still “not reading right”. Makes you want to punch puppies.

On the plus side, I replaced the cam and lifters on that truck 2 years ago and it ran strong until the trans died the other month. now it has 260k miles on it. Selling it to someone doing a LS swap.
 
Rttoys said:
Yep yep yep. Not saying that’s it, because there are other possibilities it could be, but it definitely sounds the same as the one I had. That damn thing drove me nuts. When you have “good compression” so that can’t be it, then to swap or replace everything you can think of and it still isn’t right, but running just fine most of the time. Go back to compression and question your gauge. Borrow a buddy’s gauge and it’s still odd, but not bad, then say fuck it, I’m buying a new good one and it’s still “not reading right”. Makes you want to punch puppies.

On the plus side, I replaced the cam and lifters on that truck 2 years ago and it ran strong until the trans died the other month. now it has 260k miles on it. Selling it to someone doing a LS swap.
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Yea I generally come to the idea that I'm being a moron and not doing shit right. But I guess I should give myself a little more credit...I did notice something was strange lol:lmao: just lack the experience to say without a doubt that's the problem.

The compression kit I have does talk about how the pressure builds and what the possible causes are for irregular #s etc. I definitely thought it was odd that the first compression stroke on that cylinder was jumping up to 90psi where the other cylinders would jump to around 30 psi and 1,3,5 looked identical during the test. But seeing 150psi and 140psi on #7....I thought well is it really even a problem? Other than the P0307 code....and it running fine.

That much flake in my oil, id say probably a good chance I have a worn lobe/lifter.:homer:
 
I have been doing this for a living for 30 years and it got me. I rarely have to pull out the compression gauge and when I do, it’s a last resort. I work alone on a private fleet, so I don’t have extra eyes to look at it. I was at my wit’s end when I said “fuck it, I’m pulling the head”. Looked at the cylinder and it looked like what I saw on the borescope. Looked at the head because I had a valve guide screw up before, many years ago, but all was good there. Pulled the lifters and bingo. :homer:

Then I got to go on a scavenger hunt for parts. :mad3:This was 2 years ago when shit was scarce. Played hell finding everything I needed and put it back together without replacing some things like cam bearings. :homer: Still running though. :laughing:
 
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Working on my daughters impala, very clean car, but has been hit a few times and repaired in the right quarter, bad enough that I wanted to buy a new quarter for it. But, the reviews on them are terrible, guys are buying them and throwing them away, so I'm beating on it and will get copious amounts of bondo in it:laughing:

It's going to sit in a high school parking lot, so I won't feel bad about bondo and carport single stage paint
 
Rttoys said:
I have been doing this for a living for 30 years and it got me. I rarely have to pull out the compression gauge and when I do, it’s a last resort. I work alone on a private fleet, so I don’t have extra eyes to look at it. I was at my wit’s end when I said “fuck it, I’m pulling the head”. Looked at the cylinder and it looked like what I saw on the borescope. Looked at the head because I had a valve guide screw up before, many years ago, but all was good there. Pulled the lifters and bingo. :homer:

Then I got to go on a scavenger hunt for parts. :mad3:This was 2 years ago when shit was scarce. Played hell finding everything I needed and put it back together without replacing some things like cam bearings. :homer: Still running though. :laughing:
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I'm more parts changer than diagnostic mechanic, by the time I figured out what was going on the tick was pretty loud and oil pressure was pretty low. It was my only work truck at the time in 2018, machine shops were 3-4 weeks out to look at it. Drove into a chevy dealer on a Thursday and bought the last new (not reman) ly6 in the system and next day ordered all the stuff to change while the engine was out. Drove the core back monday morning and hasn't missed a day since then.

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Stopping point for today. I busted one of the grill clips, so I’m going to try and find a replacement if super glue doesn’t hold it.

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