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What Air Filters are LS motor guys running?

TTMotorsports

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SO I am building an Prerunner with a 6.0L LS motor and I know dirt in the filter and plugging it up is death to motor and power. I've heard of people using donaldson powercore filters curious if anyone on here has ran one and if they could share the part # with me. I'm not tight on space so bigger the better just want it to flow good and not choke the motor out like a UMP filter.

Got a link to a few different options that I want to check out. Will call some suppliers locally and see what they have in stock so I can check out in person.

https://www.donaldson.com/en-us/engine/filters/products/air-intake/cleaners/psd/
 
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Napa gold which I've been told is a wix filter on my 6.0L motor and a K&N round funnel shape in the 6.6L LBZ.
 
I found a few wix filters that are for semi truck type applications i would consider and built a can with tube for intake to fit onto and have a nice cover with some smaller holes in specific areas to prevent dust or anything major like water from getting into it
 
Quoted from my build thread. Also a 6.0LS. I ran this same filter and engine on my last buggy and it ran great so it is proven.

More and more racers are dumping their small K&N filters for high tech filtration because larger filters can hold more dust before dropping CFM and they keep the dirt out of the engines. The filter housing is a Fleetguard OptiAir 1000 with a Primary and Secondary filter and a 4.5" outlet. It is rated at 507 CFM when only running the Primary filter and 411 CFM when running both the Primary and Secondary. I run both filters for maximum filtration. Keep in mind these are industrial ratings for engines running in dusty and silty conditions and still providing air flow and dirt holding capacity. The integral precleaning housing removes 80% of particles before reaching the filter.
To calculate CFM for a engine: 366CID x 5500RPM x .80VE / 3456 = 465CFM
Dirt holding capacity for the primary filter is 9.7lbs while still flowing 507CFM. With 80% precleaner efficiency, the filter assembly will have processed 48.5lbs of dirt between filter changes. It is going to be flowing a lot more CFM while clean but that is not the number to choose a filter by. Even if a typical cone shape K&N had enough surface area to hold 9.7LBS of dirt, the CFM would drop to an unusable level.


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Hydrodynamic where did you buy your filter housing?
 
Big truck pick a part, it was not an oem application someone added it aftermarket. I get the filters are NAPA now. The first filter I got from a Cummins dealer/service center in Bakersfield. You will need to find the part number for the model and size and outlet inlet configuration in order to search a part number to get one online. Otherwise there are too many different models to know what you are getting.
I've seen these filters used on a number of diesel powered equipment, RV, generators, forklifts, water pumps, AG off highway.

Here's eBay for a little bit bigger model.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36299001776...yABEgIAkfD_BwE

This place has a number of them. You will need to find the part number for specs though.
https://www.everythingtruckparts.com...tguard-ah19334

The Donaldson Power Core line can have a more compact shape but it is also more expensive as well as the replacement element.
Slawson put a small version on one of his Bomber cars after running small K&N cones for forever.
https://www.everythingtruckparts.com/collections/filters-1/products/donaldson-d100030
 
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HD, your duckbill pinch valve is missing. Probably want that back on before you run it in the dirt. I'd also throw a ziptie around it to prevent it from knocking off easily when in use.

Those same filter housings are used on big air compressors (my day job, not so much the filter, mostly what's between the filter and the outlet valve) but what I get, all roots back to Donaldson eventually. Easier/cheaper to find a heavy truck or equipment shop that deals direct with Donaldson and buy that way if you don't/can't get junkyard-way. They're also on most dirt equipment (backhoes, excavators, skidsteers), most diesel drive generators, most big water pumps, etc., so if you have an equipment-wrecking-yard hookup, there's a lot of options there.

Probably the best choice out there for longterm engine health, if you can possibly package it. That's usually the issue, great filtration takes up room.
 
HD, your duckbill pinch valve is missing. Probably want that back on before you run it in the dirt. I'd also throw a ziptie around it to prevent it from knocking off easily when in use.

Those same filter housings are used on big air compressors (my day job, not so much the filter, mostly what's between the filter and the outlet valve) but what I get, all roots back to Donaldson eventually. Easier/cheaper to find a heavy truck or equipment shop that deals direct with Donaldson and buy that way if you don't/can't get junkyard-way. They're also on most dirt equipment (backhoes, excavators, skidsteers), most diesel drive generators, most big water pumps, etc., so if you have an equipment-wrecking-yard hookup, there's a lot of options there.

Probably the best choice out there for longterm engine health, if you can possibly package it. That's usually the issue, great filtration takes up room.

I kept nocking off the dust flapper valve so I put it on the shelf for safe keeping.
The rubber elbows and reducers are all from big truck shops. The filter is 4.5” outlet so it’s bigger than most sport auto shops carry.
I also have a super cool precleaner but it is too big to put on top of the filter, it will block vision. I did mount the filter in a way I can run a snorkel if ever needed.
 
I run a late 90’s Chevy truck wix filter. It slips right over the maf
 
Air and oil filters.

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Will edit post with part # asap.

Any idea on part # for that napa gold? I used to work at napa and yes the filters are made by WIX
 
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Anyone have experience with Volant PowerCore filters?

Its a Donaldson core and technology.
It holds a lot of dirt with all that surface area or flows a lot of clean air per size depending on how you look at it.
I believe the newer tech filter media is pricey to get it that compact. You pay for efficiency but you can save some space and still get a good filter for size.
 
OK I did order a donaldson air filter but I keep seeing these and from my research they look to be very good. Also the filter W/prefilter on summit racing is $122.80 and free shipping. SO once my filter shows up if it is too large or something for fitment this looks to be another option and i'll be able to make a custom filter box/housing for it to keep it somewhat clean.
 
One thing to note on the Donaldson filters is the flow ratings are given at a much higher vacuum rating than what performance filters are. Go a little bigger than the numbers tell you to get the same flow at a lower vacuum.

They are the best filters going though.
 
One thing to note on the Donaldson filters is the flow ratings are given at a much higher vacuum rating than what performance filters are. Go a little bigger than the numbers tell you to get the same flow at a lower vacuum.

They are the best filters going though.
In other word, use the biggest air cleaner you can fit.

it may be good idea to either take weight of the new air filter and write it down somewhere to compare to later when you retake its weight to determine if it’s plugging up, or add a minder, as it’s not like you can readily visually inspect PowerCore filters.
 
Yeah I ordered a big donaldson filter and it says it shipped on Amazon. BUT i also got a refund on it yesterday. So gonna chat with them to see what's up with that. If I'm not getting it and I got refunded I'll order it from somewhere else.

Also the one I got was a big one.
Outlet Diameter3.5 inch (88.9 mm)
Body Length14.96 inch (380 mm)
Overall Length14.96 inch (380.1 mm)

According to what the chart says it flows It will be plenty for the power and everything I'm looking for and it should fit where I'm wanting it but we shall see when I mock everything up
 
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Wix Filters 46441 WIX Filters Air Filter Elements | Summit Racing

the main benifit to the ag style is the mechanical particulate separation
I think their called cyclonic. The filter element needs the fins on the outside for them to work as intended.

I worked on sweeper trucks way back in HS and they all had these and they trapped incredible amounts of dirt.

Im talking we had to shovel the area outside where we blew them out once a month.

I cleaned sooo many of them...
 
In other word, use the biggest air cleaner you can fit.
Or just expect to change it more often.

People keep trying to run air filters like you'd see on an L8000 that's driving in and out of a pit mine all day and gets checked over once a month or whenever something breaks. Sure some people here are moving that much air through the enging but pretty much nobody is running that kind of maintenance interval.

If you're cleaning/changing your filter after every use then you gain nothing over the guy who's using a smaller cheaper filter that doesn't create a packaging nightmare and is a larger % full after use.
 
Or just expect to change it more often.

People keep trying to run air filters like you'd see on an L8000 that's driving in and out of a pit mine all day and gets checked over once a month or whenever something breaks. Sure some people here are moving that much air through the enging but pretty much nobody is running that kind of maintenance interval.

If you're cleaning/changing your filter after every use then you gain nothing over the guy who's using a smaller cheaper filter that doesn't create a packaging nightmare and is a larger % full after use.
Back east you would be correct. If you ever make it out west and hit a large silt bed you will change your mind. One good silt bed will destroy a small filter.
 
Does Donaldson give their cfm ratings on their website?

I'm not trying to run more than I need, but certainly enough would be nice


250 cfm will support 360hp
300 cfm will hold 423hp

...roughly and such.
 
Or just expect to change it more often.

People keep trying to run air filters like you'd see on an L8000 that's driving in and out of a pit mine all day and gets checked over once a month or whenever something breaks. Sure some people here are moving that much air through the enging but pretty much nobody is running that kind of maintenance interval.

If you're cleaning/changing your filter after every use then you gain nothing over the guy who's using a smaller cheaper filter that doesn't create a packaging nightmare and is a larger % full after use.

Campbell builds some of the most no nonsense cars. Only what is needed is on the car. Light and simple. He is running two 8" x 15" or 10" x 20" Advanced Air Cleaners for 840HP from best I could guess by dimensions. He used to run only one filter and then went to two. The Campbells run 4 cars of this generation or build style, so its not a one off.
If you are not lucky enough to be in front of the pack you are going to have to go through a mountain of dust to keep up or pass.

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FYI, in case anyone is still running a K&N, do your engine a favor and throw it away. They are about as worthless as covid masks. They are going to attract and hold dirt so the engine can suck it in when you hit the throttle. Or you can use one to virtue signal that you care about engine performance and are a serious racer. You might even feel the need to put a K&N sticker on the back of your minivan next to your stick figure family or brag to the clerk at AutoZone about how much torquepowers you gained.
The reason they can be so small and still flow is because they are like a window screen. They only keep the large particles out and pass the small ones. Once they get dirty enough and the particles bridge then they start filtering but then the flow drops off.
Before you tell me about how your WWII Willys MB used an oil bath filter to make 60HP and its the same concept as a K&N, the oil bath filter was not a bad idea to use oil instead of a paper filter. Trying to maintain a MB during wartime would be a lot easier if all you needed was fuel and oil. No paper products to worry about transporting, only an oil can and gas can. With the amount of oil ingestion that todays emissions create, it might not be a bad idea to go back 80+ years in technology, it would still clean better than a K&N.
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Not to derail a thread...what’s a good non-racing filter?
 
Racing vs non racing is a misguided term when selecting parts.
In its relation to filters, its about how much dirt the filter can hold while still flowing enough CFM to make the power wanted and keeping the air clean. All of these factored into a service interval or for one race event.
For a non race application you might want an even larger filter so you are not changing the element out everyday or after every event. If you are trail riding in a group you might be following and consuming more dust than if racing and out front and in the clear.
Depends on your power needs. If you have fun with a big block spooled up all day long you are going to want a bigger filter than a 4 banger in a stock class race.
UMP is a very well known filter housing manufacturer. If you search around you will find the part numbers for the element that are most likely available at your local Napa, which is probably a rebranded Donaldson element.
Try to fit the largest housing you can. At least keep the outlet size the same or larger than your engine intake size.
If you are on the cheap, go to a big truck or tractor wrecking yard and find one in the right size range.
UMP Air Intakes - Kartek Off-Road
 
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