What’s Everyone Using for Bathroom Remodeling?

[Lilyota]

Man I'd say 90% of homeowner built showers are incorrect. No waterproofing membranes, usually the pan liner corners done wrong etc. Red Guard, Kerdi systems etc are the way to go. People don't understand and kind of hardibacker or concrete board is not waterproof, and in fact acts as a sponge. Even the OG showers back the day had plastic behind the backer board, or deck mud walls that overlapped the, (at the time, usually lead) liners. Anything with no waterproofing on the walls will have mildew and moisture behind the walls 100%.

I have an old friend that does tile.


He referd me to the Kerdi board.

 

[PoBoy84]

I have an old friend that does tile.


He referd me to the Kerdi board.

I personally like their systems the best.

 

[Pocahontas]

Pulling the old tub/surround (fiberglass & ???)

Replacing with fiberglass tub. Planning on insulating the tub before I install it. I already know about supporting the base of the tub. Any tricks for the wall/surround?

Last house I did was green board behind a properly installed surround. It didn't leak, and that was 15 years ago.

Just make sure everything is level(tub/walls) and set your level lines/cut your first row before you mix the mud. Use tile spacers/leveling depending on tile choice, seal the tile if you are using a stone.

I have an old friend that does tile.


He referd me to the Kerdi board.

Kerdi is nice but expensive. I use it properly 50% of the time.

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

Hd had a metal flange thats split into 2 pieces so you dont have to cut the flare off the end of the plastic. Do those work worth a damn?

Why take the chance… you’ve got access to do it right with no questions!!!!
Cut that old one off and glue the new one on….
They make an ABS toilet flange that slides right into a coupler!!!

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

Use the wax ring that is encased in rubber, that way you can pull the toilet as many times as you want if needed with no mess.

This Korky brand I’ve found to be the best!!!!
No wax!!!

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

Let's say all of your exclamation points convinced a guy to do the cement board.

How does one deal with the transition from drywall to the cement board? does that seam get covered by the tile? does one use any sort of mud/tape on that seam?

Set your cement board first…. Run it long,(into the drywall area outside the shower) because most tub/showers are 30” and cement board is 36”x60”…. This gets you 5’ above the tub on the end walls and 6’ above the tub on the back wall… which is plenty, if you wanna go cheap!!!!
Don’t do any waterproofing yet… once cement board is done , finish all your Sheetrock …. Treat all Sheetrock/cement board seams just like all other Sheetrock joints….. get all your Sheetrock finished and textured…. Don’t worry about overlapping some into the shower area!!!!!
We usually prime (real watery, like 5:1 mix) all hardibacker and fiber rock before, or everything drys to fast on it!!!!
Use a small v-notch trowel and coat your seems/corners, then place strips of 5-6” fiberglass mesh in it and flat trowel that smooth, keeping it wet with waterproofing!!!!
Don’t spread to far ahead of yourself or the waterproofing can start drying out!!!!

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

I replaced my old cast iron flange with a PVC one similar to the second photo. The rest of the cast iron pipe is in good enough shape. I'm not fucking with it.

If you’ve got cast iron drain pipe I think this one is better!!!! Why not replace cast with cast????

 

[Grnd93]

If you’ve got cast iron drain pipe I think this one is better!!!! Why not replace cast with cast????

I had bought both, but I liked having the seal inside the pipe better than outside. Made more sense in my head.

I also would have had to open up the floor more for the cast iron flange. Not a big deal, but I was doing it at 9PM so we could continue having a functional Toilet for the night.

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

Man I'd say 90% of homeowner built showers are incorrect. No waterproofing membranes, usually the pan liner corners done wrong etc. Red Guard, Kerdi systems etc are the way to go. People don't understand and kind of hardibacker or concrete board is not waterproof, and in fact acts as a sponge. Even the OG showers back the day had plastic behind the backer board, or deck mud walls that overlapped the, (at the time, usually lead) liners. Anything with no waterproofing on the walls will have mildew and moisture behind the walls 100%.

Cement board will hold/wick if it’s sitting in water…. Hold all board up at least 1/4” in a mud shower….. tub and fiberglass pans have the flange that dictates how far off the tub it sits!!!!

 

[MChat]

Man I'd say 90% of homeowner built showers are incorrect. No waterproofing membranes, usually the pan liner corners done wrong etc. Red Guard, Kerdi systems etc are the way to go. People don't understand and kind of hardibacker or concrete board is not waterproof, and in fact acts as a sponge. Even the OG showers back the day had plastic behind the backer board, or deck mud walls that overlapped the, (at the time, usually lead) liners. Anything with no waterproofing on the walls will have mildew and moisture behind the walls 100%.

I didn't take any pictures, but when I did my tub surround, I ran a plastic liner down the wall, installed the tub, then installed the cement board (leaving 1/4" gap between the bottom of the board and the tub), then caulked all of the screws holding the cement board up, then used Red Guard waterproof "paint on" membrane (triple coat over the seams & edges, double coat everywhere else). Finally tile on top of all of that with a self-sealing grout.

I had no clue what I was doing, so I consulted YouTube and found some videos. Most videos didn't use the plastic liner, only the board & membrane; one video I found suggested using the plastic liner and indicated that in some places it may be "code" to do so.

 

[Jag]

Why take the chance… you’ve got access to do it right with no questions!!!!
Cut that old one off and glue the new one on….
They make an ABS toilet flange that slides right into a coupler!!!

Im thinking someone may have already done that. My concern is there really isnt any pipe to reglue to. the end of the flange is about 8 inches down glued to tge outside of the pipe. the pipe is showing about 1/2 inch then theres an elbow that points it over to the rest of the bathroom.

 

[PoBoy84]

I didn't take any pictures, but when I did my tub surround, I ran a plastic liner down the wall, installed the tub, then installed the cement board (leaving 1/4" gap between the bottom of the board and the tub), then caulked all of the screws holding the cement board up, then used Red Guard waterproof "paint on" membrane (triple coat over the seams & edges, double coat everywhere else). Finally tile on top of all of that with a self-sealing grout.

I had no clue what I was doing, so I consulted YouTube and found some videos. Most videos didn't use the plastic liner, only the board & membrane; one video I found suggested using the plastic liner and indicated that in some places it may be "code" to do so.

Sounds like you're good to go. Plastic liner should overlap pan liner. Youtube is such a great tool if you weed through the bs. Wish I'd have had it in highschool.

 

[Chadwick]

Downgraded to a small grow tent and a bucket with crapper lid. . I do have a shower pan in bottom and it'll dbl as shower house even... and drain.. little battery operated led magnetic lights...

Said fuck it sold almost everything and living in forest now....

 

[PoBoy84]

Downgraded to a small grow tent and a bucket with crapper lid. . I do have a shower pan in bottom and it'll dbl as shower house even... and drain.. little battery operated led magnetic lights...

Said fuck it sold almost everything and living in forest now....

That shit is way too fancy for forest living

 

[Chadwick]

That shit is way too fancy for forest living

Trying to stay/and act a lil bit domesticated ..... haven't gone completely Ferrell 😕 yet...

 

[Pocahontas]

You ever run into problems mixing products? Schluter w cement board ect.

 

[PoBoy84]

You ever run into problems mixing products? Schluter w cement board ect.

You can use cement board with Shluter. Just use unmodified thinset.

 

[Lilyota]

So when I was up in Alaska and took a week off to avoid the syc eval we stayed at the Courtyard Marriot and I really liked their shower set ups.

Was a single thick panel per wall.

Anyone have any idea what this might be or how difficult it is to work with?

 

[subybaja]

So when I was up in Alaska and took a week off to avoid the syc eval we stayed at the Courtyard Marriot and I really liked their shower set ups.

Was a single thick panel per wall.

Anyone have any idea what this might be or how difficult it is to work with?

Solid surface, like countertop? That's what I'll be doing soon... My MIL had them in her new $$$ house, and they're great.

5 Myths about Solid Surface Shower Products You Need to Know So You “Won’t be Fooled Again!”

5 myths about solid surface shower products you need to know so you won’t be fooled again and have to settle for a custom tile shower.

blog.innovatebuildingsolutions.com

 

[Lilyota]

Solid surface, like countertop? That's what I'll be doing soon...

KInda, ya

 

[u2slow]

I did my own tile bathrooms 20 years ago, and no interest to do that again. Turned out ok though. Hate that work more than drywall.

Current place has fiberglass surround (solid surface) - left that alone. Redid all the lino, paint, trim, vanity and toilet. If the surround or base ever gets too ratty or cracks, will replace with similar.

 

[Pocahontas]

You can use cement board with Shluter. Just use unmodified thinset.

I've done it before but when I had talked to schluter rep he said they don't recommend it and won't warranty it if you mix products. I've never had one leak but Greg does a lot more baths than I do so figured I'd ask.

KInda, ya

They are nice but expensive, whoever you buy from will generally do the installation.

 

[Lilyota]

I've done it before but when I had talked to schluter rep he said they don't recommend it and won't warranty it if you mix products. I've never had one leak but Greg does a lot more baths than I do so figured I'd ask.



They are nice but expensive, whoever you buy from will generally do the installation.

Thanks for that information.




Horrible Freight is having a sale this weekend.


I may go pick up a tile saw after I drop wifenheimer off at the air port tomorrow.

I really like the brick look.


Have been kinda working it out in my mind all weekend.

 

[Lilyota]

Sometimes the less she know the better

 

[Lilyota]

Thanks for that information.




Horrible Freight is having a sale this weekend.


I may go pick up a tile saw after I drop wifenheimer off at the air port tomorrow.

I really like the brick look.


Have been kinda working it out in my mind all weekend.

I'd do brick ends on each end and side brick on the side wall.

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

You ever run into problems mixing products? Schluter w cement board ect.

No…. If you understand how everything works you can use best products for each individual job…. Only time we’ll use all one brand is if a builder specifies and is paying for all of it!!!
There’s plenty of knock-off brands that work fine!!!! Hydroblock, Go-board, Titan and others!!!!

Sometimes a customer wants a curb less shower… but builder didn’t know and doesn’t drop the shower floor the required 4”’s…. We can still do it using the Schluter liner, dropping the subfloor between floor joists and maintaining the 1/4” per foot needed!!!!
Schluter board is $100.00 for 4X8 sheet….
Fiber Rock or hardi is $12.00 to $15.00 for 3X5 sheet!!!!!

This floor dropped properly

This one was not!!!
Cut the subfloor out and drop it between floor joists….

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

You can use cement board with Shluter. Just use unmodified thinset.

Please explain……

 

[Pocahontas]

No…. If you understand how everything works you can use best products for each individual job…. Only time we’ll use all one brand is if a builder specifies and is paying for all of it!!!
There’s plenty of knock-off brands that work fine!!!! Hydroblock, Go-board, Titan and others!!!!

Sometimes a customer wants a curb less shower… but builder didn’t know and doesn’t drop the shower floor the required 4”’s…. We can still do it using the Schluter liner, dropping the subfloor between floor joists and maintaining the 1/4” per foot needed!!!!
Schluter board is $100.00 for 4X8 sheet….
Fiber Rock or hardi is $12.00 to $15.00 for 3X5 sheet!!!!!

This floor dropped properly

This one was not!!!
Cut the subfloor out and drop it between floor joists….

Ya schluter is definitely proud of their products.

Thats what we usually run into. I do like the curbless but they can be a bit of a bitch to get work properly.

 

[PoBoy84]

Please explain……

"Can I use Schluter with cement board?
For all the substrates listed in this Handbook (e.g., gypsum board, cement backerboard, etc.), Schluter SET™, ALL-SET™, FAST-SET™ or an unmodified thin-set mortar is recommended."

Read it years ago when diving in to doing a shower at my last house.

How do I know if the thin-set mortar is modified or unmodified?​

In general, unmodified thin-set mortar is a blend of Portland cement, sand, and water retention agents that is mixed with water by the user. The appropriate product standard for unmodified thin-set mortars is ANSI A118.1. Look for this standard on the packaging (e.g., product meets ANSI A118.1 when mixed with water). Unmodified thin-set mortar may also be referred to as dry-set mortar by the manufacturer.

Modified thin-set mortars are similar to unmodified thin-set mortars, but include additional polymers such as latex. The additional polymers are introduced in either liquid or powder form. In the first case, the user mixes an unmodified or dry-set mortar powder with a liquid polymer additive instead of water. In the second case, the polymers are added by the manufacturer to the dry blend in powder form. The user then mixes the powder with water. The appropriate product standards for modified thin-set mortars include ANSI A118.4, ANSI A118.11, and ANSI A118.15.

 

[PoBoy84]

I've done it before but when I had talked to schluter rep he said they don't recommend it and won't warranty it if you mix products. I've never had one leak but Greg does a lot more baths than I do so figured I'd ask.



They are nice but expensive, whoever you buy from will generally do the installation.

I'm not sure the rep is right. They talk about it on their own vids, or used to years ago anyway. I could be wrong but I don't think so.