Hard to believe a rebuilt NP 205 is the problem but what oil are you running in it? Any magnets on the drain plug or pto port in the case to check for shavings? Maybe the oil in the tcase gets thin after x miles and a bearing/bushing/slinger isnt happy because the case is not in its as built installation orientation? Maybe try heavier gear oil in the case or overfill it a touch to see if that helps?
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WC53 Carryall Restomod - Cummins ISB170, Allison, ORI Struts
- Thread starter AlxJ64
- Start date
AlxJ64
Rust is Paint
Good test idea, I will give that a run. Gotta find some fairly vacant road where I can make a few passes.
I have the driveline angles matched up pretty good between the transmission output and the input of the T-case. Front and rear shafts are CV shafts too so shouldn't be any vibrations / chatters there. In 2wd the case acts essentially as a carrier bearing but if I remember right, the input gear and output gear ride on each other and maybe there is enough play in there and as mentioned below, I need different oil?
It is clocked a little bit lower than stock application. I am going to change the oil in it and see what I get out of it. I have checked it a few times and its always fairly full. Just running regular ol' gear oil in it.
I have another case on the floor as a spare, I may just swap the yokes and swap it in for a test if things start leading me to the case. Also, the driveline angles vibrating the rear planetary set is a thought also. I should probably send the whole shaft assembly, yokes and everything out for balance.
Bebop
Well-known member
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Same I told you in the other topic.
Remove driveshaft and go for a ride. See if you can pin point front or rear as the source.
ridered3
Low Talent Wheelin
Turn the radio up and the windows down…
AlxJ64
Rust is Paint
Only does it under slight load, if the driveline is just coasting, or under zero load, there is nothing to be heard. Its all quiet.
Just tested it in the driveway (I took today off to get this shit out of my head and test more).
So just went out and tried this after I got some heat in it and the noise showed up. First I did it by just engaging the front driveshaft in high range and I believe its about 1/3rd quieter. When I then did the same thing in 4wd low, but with the hubs unlocked on the pavement, it just gave me a ton of gear whine and didn't hear any rattling per-say.
Its not the front shaft because it doesn't spin at all in 2wd unless I lock the hubs. I actually drove around the OBX some with the front hubs locked and it didn't seem to make a bit a difference but it did tell me that my front driveshaft is straight and in balance as there were no extra vibrations. The front Detroit locker also worked for turning and such as well and didn't give me any problems.
I also wouldn't want to fight this thing in just front wheel drive, on the pavement, in OD, even in low range.
Turn the radio up and the windows down…
Yea... Its loud enough that I still don't like listening to it. The truck is fairly quiet to drive aside from the rattle of the driveline.
So, this has been on loan to a friend, and I asked them if they still had it. Its a Steelman Electronic Ear...
They said "I put it in the bottom of your off-road bugout bag when you moved"... A tool bag that just has random U-joints, fittings, etc from back when I had my TJ. I went and looked and there it was. So I found a battery and got it working. It has a metal alligator clip that you can clip on to things so I routed the wire under the truck and tested the transmission by clipping on a bolt on the back of the tail housing. All I heard was smooth gear noise and an occasional light ticking. I moved it to a bolt on the T-case input bearing reatainer flange. Just in the driveway it sounded like rough bearing sounds. It smoothed out in 2nd and 3rd but when it went into 4th and then OD, it sounded like someone was tumbling 3/4" ball bearings in a 55 gallon steel drum. To then back check myself, I then clipped onto the aluminum rib of the transmission where I could then here ticking and rattling but not as violent as the T-case.
I am going to pull this T-case out and gut it. I have another one on the floor in my storage container but it needs to be rebuilt. If I recall, I used a pretty cheap kit when I did the one installed in this truck, and we actually did 2 at the same time because another one (the nicer one actually), went into a Mega Truck.
Also, does anyone have a good source of a place I can send the intermediate driveshaft, with both yokes to for balancing, just in case I have an issue with that? When sitting with the T-case in neutral and running the transmission through the gears, I do feel a slight vibration / shake as the shaft changes speed so that is also worth taking care of.
Thanks for all of the input on this, it is much appreciated!
When I was living out that way we sent all our driveline work to standard parts in RVA..
Standard Parts Corp in Richmond , VA
Rated 5 stars on YP. Share your own tips, photos and more- tell us what you think of this business!
Edit: looks like its a Truck Pro Now... https://www.truckpro.com/storelocator/storedetails/256/
Always cool to see all of the es-ploded yokes and drivelines off log skidders and heavy equipment in there.
AlxJ64
Rust is Paint
Put thicker oil in the t-case and it goes much longer without getting any noise and also its at a much lower level of noise than previously; granted the outdoor temps are much cooler too.
Put 80 miles on it running mostly backroads and secondary and it was quite an enjoyable drive. Gets some wanders on the backroads now that I dialed some caster back out of it, but it rides smoother than my 3500 Mega cab.
Ohh, and the roof rack doesn't whistle at all!
Dumb luck but hey!
Put 80 miles on it running mostly backroads and secondary and it was quite an enjoyable drive. Gets some wanders on the backroads now that I dialed some caster back out of it, but it rides smoother than my 3500 Mega cab.
Ohh, and the roof rack doesn't whistle at all!
Dumb luck but hey!
WaterH
Well-known member
Nice!
Are you running synthetic oil in the case? I’ve found that synthetic oil lowers temperatures, but it seems to be thinner for the same weight. So I’m not sure if it will help or hurt.
Are you running synthetic oil in the case? I’ve found that synthetic oil lowers temperatures, but it seems to be thinner for the same weight. So I’m not sure if it will help or hurt.
I agree with all of this. A heavier synthetic could quiet things down more.
Can you overfill a 205 a bit? Might help too.
Also, does a 205 have or need an oil slinger?
AlxJ64
Rust is Paint
Dis is what's in it. I think there is some sort of a slinger in the case, its been almost 10 years since it was rebuilt. The chatter is from the idler shaft; I've done a lot more reading and its common on cases with a lot of wear.
AlxJ64
Rust is Paint
Texas97 I'll pass on the offer to sell it; you don't want mine anyways as its still not completely done (needs windows installed, headliner, and some wire harness loom work, and the vintage air unit charged with refrigerant).
These guys can build you one though; but I'd probably be swayed to sell mine as is for the same price since mine has the cool battleship teak floors, an Allison that they don't offer, air shift case, and the tune on my 3.9 ISB makes 520 ft-lbs vs their 480 tuned rattly 4BT.
www.legacyclassictrucks.com
These guys can build you one though; but I'd probably be swayed to sell mine as is for the same price since mine has the cool battleship teak floors, an Allison that they don't offer, air shift case, and the tune on my 3.9 ISB makes 520 ft-lbs vs their 480 tuned rattly 4BT.
Legacy Carryall Conversion | Dodge Carryall | Build Your Own
Legacy Classic Trucks has announced an impressive list of new improvements for 2015 to the already formidable Legacy Power Wagon Conversion. {{ $wsm_product->price }} Starting Price
www.legacyclassictrucks.com
Does that say 365000 dollars?!? Jeebus
Will Scarlet
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That's the starting price...
Firstram
Red Skull Member
If you have to ask...
ridered3
Low Talent Wheelin
For the low price of $120k, you can have them build you a 4x4 1932 Ford Roadster too.