Warn Winch Rebuild

[RunningProblem]

For those with the XD9000i this is what I’m using as instructions.

Warn xd9000i Winch Rebuild

Also, the parts diagram for my winch (Serial Number 667219)

https://www.warn.com/Attachment/DownloadFile?downloadId=1862

According to the internet the gaskets (part number 13848) are sold individually and the two pack is 98274. The individual gasket is online for $12-37 while the two gasket kit is $12-20. These are for the housing around the ring gear. Mine was ‘stuck like Chuck’ until a healthy supply of PB blaster was used to free it up along with a deadblow mallet.


I wiped out the housing before taking the photo. There were balls of grease in the bottom.
There is a correct way to install this gear. The groved side faces towards the spool. Oddly, this doesn’t match the Warn parts diagram. It’s how mine came out so maybe it’s was installed wrong. It matches the Wandering Trail link above. If it’s backwards the winch won’t disengage so this is actually important.

 

[RunningProblem]

After enough OB blaster soaking I was able to get the brake out and scrub the inside. It is looking like this winch ‘ran when parked’ and just sat for so long the grease hardened. Everything looks clean, the cable has some pinches in two or three spots, the winch spools in and out, but the grease is just holding everything in place.

A few deadblow hits on the hex shaft trying not to bend it and the whole brake assembly came out. I scraped the inside of the drum with a welding brush. I could have used a hone looking back.

Something I didn’t know until later is the plastic clips on the drum actually line up with a tang/notch in the housing. Hopefully I didn’t break anything when I put it back together to test fit it all. The drum was pretty stubborn going back in but I guess it isn’t supposed to have much free play. I also found out the old drum part number 26107 is discontinued and has been replaced by 98767

I use a fine wire wheel on everything to remove the old hard grease. WARN recommended

Phillips 66 Moly Low Temp Grease​

Phillips 66® Moly Low Temp is a multipurpose, extreme pressure (EP), aluminum complex grease developed for use in automotive and industrial equipment operating at low ambient temperatures down to -30°F. It has good mobility at low temperatures plus a high dropping point for year-round use in arctic climates. Moly Low Temp is manufactured with low viscosity base oils and an aluminum complex soap thickener. It is compounded with select additives that provide
EP and antiwear properties, good oxidation resistance, and rust and corrosion protection. It is fortified with 5% molybdenum disulfide (moly) for extra protection in equipment subject to heavy or shock loads. It has good shear stability and resistance to water washout. It is suitable for both winter and summer use in arctic climates.

I still need to order a controller. I’ve not decided if I want 100 ft of synthetic line, or 125 ft of new cable, or to keep the 125 ft of cable it came with. In my head I’d rather have 25 ft on the drum than cool synthetic rope with maybe 90 USABLE feet.

 

[RunningProblem]

Pulled more apart. Put more back together. Rust everywhere. Then I took the motor apart in two pieces, broke two plastic tabs holding the bearing into the housing, and broke the copper connected to the A post. So I welded it back together. I’m sure this is a horrible idea for a winch. I could t get solder to stick and I don’t know why because I don’t know what I’m doing. It’s together and works with no load. Maybe I’ll buy a new motor.

These holes were caked with grease so much I didn’t know it actually was a passage.



View from the other side once I removed all the old grease and/or rust.

 

[Mr.Ratbastard]

I have used a couple from here Winch Motor - 12V Winch Replacement Parts | DB Electrical
No issues.

 

[RunningProblem]

Mr.Ratbastard yeah I looked there first then Warn’s parts diagram. Warn wants more money for obvious reasons (name brand) than DB. Lots of people seem happy with DB products.

The bolt/copper tap sticking up is what I broke. This is before I broke it and welded it. Should be okay since I got it back together and it works, right?


Motor after I removed a bunch of rust. Before I broke plastic tabs and such.



I also cleaned up the drum and painted it. For $300, and probably 10 hours of work plus a tube of grease and two paper gaskets I’d say I’m still happy with it. Even the $130 motor purchase would make this a screaming deal. Mostly because I can web wheel a Warn harder than a smittybuilt.

 

[00nissanguy]

Iv ran a couple of the dB electric ones. I felt they didn't pull as hard and didn't last as long as the original warn but for 1/3rd the price were a great option

 

[RunningProblem]

A Warn Winch motor is about $300 on the Amazon machine. About $350 for the 9.5xp motor (faster, and 1 inch longer) which is about what I paid for this entire winch. Add in a $100 control and I’m still under half of the price of new. Not a horrible option to buy a Warn motor for a Warn winch so Warn can tell me they don’t warranty winches after the original purchase.

 

[Winchested]

Got to run a solid-state contactor in place of the 4 single solenoids on a 9000i with that 9.5XP motor?

 

[RunningProblem]

I don’t think I’ll switch mine to the XP motor. It might not fit my bumper, and the 6 go motor doesn’t APPEAR to do much different when I compare the XD9000i specs to the XP specs.

The Albright connector should be a nice upgrade just for reliability. The internet tells me they’re better than four solenoids and I guess I’d tend to agree just because of how much bouncing around my rig does when I drive.


Edit: I don’t know enough about solenoids to comment on if the XP motor requires an Albright contactor or not. I’d expect the motor to rotate based on 12 volt input being applied to specific points. Not because it has two solenoids vs one Albright connector. The comment above sounded like an Albright was required for the XP motor.

 

[RunningProblem]

Make sure you don’t put the winch cable screw too far into the drum and test it. If you see metal shavings coming out from the winch you should probably stop and check things.