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U joints, reviews on all the other brands?

I use bostik on mine. they make "big" tubes for a grease gun. Way easier than the little guns.
 
JR4X Had some secret sauce that's supposed to be the shit, but I don't remember what it was off the top of my head. A buddy of mine has been using it on his new Excalibur joints he replaced his worn out Super Joints with and hasn't had any issues as far as I know. He was really unhappy with how fast the Superjoints wore out with whatever grease Yukon supplies for them and he was pretty religious keeping them greased before every trip.
 
JR4X Had some secret sauce that's supposed to be the shit, but I don't remember what it was off the top of my head. A buddy of mine has been using it on his new Excalibur joints he replaced his worn out Super Joints with and hasn't had any issues as far as I know. He was really unhappy with how fast the Superjoints wore out with whatever grease Yukon supplies for them and he was pretty religious keeping them greased before every trip.
Schaeffers 274 EP high moly. It’s not secret sauce, it’s just the correct product for the application. High pressure, unaffected by temperature, impossible to contaminate with water, sticks to the metal like it’s magnetic. And it’s cheaper than the “recommended” shit people upsale with their products.
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Edit: last time I posted about it we were getting it for $9 a tube. All lubricants are up 40% or more in price in the last couple years. Shop hard if you’re buying it. I also run it RCV’s as well as U-Joints. We just switched dads car to Branik 40 splines with their own 300M u-joints and this is the grease we’ll be running in it.
 
JR4X Had some secret sauce that's supposed to be the shit, but I don't remember what it was off the top of my head. A buddy of mine has been using it on his new Excalibur joints he replaced his worn out Super Joints with and hasn't had any issues as far as I know. He was really unhappy with how fast the Superjoints wore out with whatever grease Yukon supplies for them and he was pretty religious keeping them greased before every trip.
Great…..I have a few runs on super joints and I have been so religious about it that each day in Moab before we hit the trail is grease them.

Hopefully they last a decent amount of time.

JR4X did you use that on super joints?
 
Great…..I have a few runs on super joints and I have been so religious about it that each day in Moab before we hit the trail is grease them.

Hopefully they last a decent amount of time.

JR4X did you use that on super joints?
Yes

I just took apart a set of CTM’s that were ram on exclusively this grease. Broke one shaft, twisted the splines on the other. CTM joints still look good. I’m saving them for spares. These are the 1480 flavor.
 
Schaeffers 274 EP high moly. It’s not secret sauce, it’s just the correct product for the application. High pressure, unaffected by temperature, impossible to contaminate with water, sticks to the metal like it’s magnetic. And it’s cheaper than the “recommended” shit people upsale with their products.
Thanks, I remembered that it was Schaeffers, but I didn't remember which one it was :beer:
 
Im assuming you are running the nlgi#1 on that schaffers since its a red cap on the tube?
 
Im assuming you are running the nlgi#1 on that schaffers since its a red cap on the tube?
I didn’t notice the red cap in the picture, that’s an internet screenshot. I’m for sure running yellow cap tubes at home.
 
For the antiseize guys… are you just sliding the cap off, globing it the shaft, and sliding the cap back on? Or somehow pumping it through?
I refill one of those little pump grease guns like this with the extreme pressure copper antisieze. They make little cartridges, but it is way cheaper to refill from a jug off of Amazon. View attachment IMG_1128.webp
 
Yep yellow cap here. I don’t pay attention always , half the time I think the caps are black
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I dont know if its true or not, i asked because another website claims

Part # 274

NLGI #00 - Black Cap

NLGI #0 - White Cap

NLGI #1 - Red Cap

NLGI #2 - Yellow Cap
 
I dont know if its true or not, i asked because another website claims

Part # 274

NLGI #00 - Black Cap

NLGI #0 - White Cap

NLGI #1 - Red Cap

NLGI #2 - Yellow Cap

Looking at the data sheet, it looks like we probably want the NLGI #2 for bushing-style U-joint applications unless you are wheeling below -10°F? I have no idea which grade my buddy used on his Excalibur joints.
 
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