What's new

Tuesday contactor question on Thursday

Pt_Ranger_v8

A dministrator
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
406
Messages
892
Loc
flyover land
I got roped into troubleshooting the baptismal at church. It's a fairly standard setup - baptistry is elevated ~4'

Setup is just like this diagram.


automatic.png







Long story short, I need to replace this contactor. After we did all the troubleshooting, filled the baptistry, tripped the water sensor, the inlet valve shut off, pump/heater kicked on, then immediately shut off because the contactor doesn't stay energized.

If I shut the contacts, the pump turns on and the pump/heater operates.




The part number/description is listed on their website as this: "Little Giant R8246A 48amp Resistive Rating Contactor"


And they've got it listed for $95 plus shipping. Given that some of their part selection is downright shitty (the fill solenoid overheats at ~6 minutes run time), I'd like to find a better alternative.

Is there a cheaper/better contactor than the one they've spec'd, or do I just go with that one and hope for the best?
 

Attachments

  • 1724377176539.webp
    104.9 KB · Views: 1
Last edited:
Given here, I have zero real knowledge, but have replaced the contactor in my hot tub controller recently, don’t you just need to match controller voltage and controlled voltage for a contactor? My electrician friend said the coil never burns out, but that is what was wrong with mine, and he had a cheaper one but I would have had to move wires around, and he had the exact replacement, so that’s the route I went.

I am very interested in the solution.
 
Have you verified that the coil is getting power at the proper voltage?
I don't see the pic of the contactor?
 
Have you verified that the coil is getting power at the proper voltage?
I don't see the pic of the contactor?


Not yet. I'll head up there tonight and take some pictures.


The most I've dealt with contactors is to swap out the power switch on my table saw. I just assumed they're oversized relays, but then I started down this path, and this thing doesn't have a switch one it :lmao:
 
If this thing is UL listed and you replace anything with other than oem parts, you’re in for serious trouble if someone gets electrocuted or boiled. Even if you did it right. I wouldn’t touch it as a favor, this would be a billed job on contract.
That being said, did you test for a bad thermostat or high limit switch?
 
If this thing is UL listed and you replace anything with other than oem parts, you’re in for serious trouble if someone gets electrocuted or boiled. Even if you did it right. I wouldn’t touch it as a favor, this would be a billed job on contract.
That being said, did you test for a bad thermostat or high limit switch?


Not yet, but the contactor doesn't stay contacted unless you hold it in, which leads me to believe it's the contactor.
 
Wait... that's just faucet water in those? In a glorified horse warterer.

I figured it was some special stuff that they poured in from a fancy gold and diamond encrusted jug or something.
 
1000006297.jpg


Here's the contactor in question.

Switching 220, I think it's controlled by the 24v transformer, but I haven't had time to trace out all the wires. I'd like to find a wiring diagram and check voltages.


Anything specific way to test it, or should I just replace it?
 
Here's the contactor in question.

Switching 220, I think it's controlled by the 24v transformer, but I haven't had time to trace out all the wires. I'd like to find a wiring diagram and check voltages.


Anything specific way to test it, or should I just replace it?
You can check the voltage at the coil.
If you knew the coil resistance, you could check that, if it is open, it is bad. You could check coil resistance to ground, should be infinity. You can check continuity across the contacts.
 
You can check the voltage at the coil.
If you knew the coil resistance, you could check that, if it is open, it is bad. You could check coil resistance to ground, should be infinity. You can check continuity across the contacts.


I can do that with power off, correct? Maybe disconnect one side of the circuit I'm testing?



This page seems to have wiring diagrams - it's a simpler design that I thought :idea:

Still looking for actual resistance measurements
 
I can do that with power off, correct? Maybe disconnect one side of the circuit I'm testing?



This page seems to have wiring diagrams - it's a simpler design that I thought :idea:

Still looking for actual resistance measurements
You do those tests with the power off, except for checking power at the coil of course.
 
Really doubt it's the contactor, they either work or they don't. If the coil has enough power to pull the contacts in, it's not suddenly going to let go a second later. Something on the control side isn't acting right.
 
Really doubt it's the contactor, they either work or they don't. If the coil has enough power to pull the contacts in, it's not suddenly going to let go a second later. Something on the control side isn't acting right.


Could the transformer or water sensor be suffering a voltage drop, de-energizing the coil?
 
Could the transformer or water sensor be suffering a voltage drop, de-energizing the coil?
until you checks voltage to the holding coil this is kind of a joke.

When you knows it’s got voltage you can condemn the contractor.

When you sees it doesn’t, you can troubleshoot the circuit .

But until you gets a meter out, anything else is a distraction .

And I bet there is a diagram on a cover somewhere
 
.

And I bet there is a diagram on a cover somewhere


I'll check voltages and report back. Until today, i didn't know the coil voltage or how it was wired, so I really didn't know what to look for anyway :homer:

I already posted the only diagram I have - there isn't one for the contactor that I've seen (either near the contactor, or online) or I wouldn't be asking these questions :flipoff2:
 
Top Back Refresh