Trunnion bearing setup tool

[Clb]

Cliffs
83 S.A. Fresh bearings and seals diff out to hubs, +- 2500 miles on the whole build (I remember a diy hack on the old place for making the sst tool.)
Looks like my indie left some tension off of them and now I got death wobble purty bad....
jap trunnion bearings, new wheel bearing that I've snugged up twice now hoping to fix it.
Rod ends and steering box are tight.

my indie is closed for the weekend, so I figured to do some research till Monday.
Anyone have the sst and willing to rent it out?

Any tips tricks? I know there are a lot of you that dealt with this before.
thanx fer lookin.
Cb

 

[Clb]

Ran this setup with 31" tires during breakin (fresh rebuilt squirrel under the hood) now with a little wear in I went 35" ran fine. ..
I run the small tires on street and swap trail tires on as needed.
The second trail run it started the death wobble shit.
U bolts are tight, fresh spring eye bushes (hard thane shit) frame aint rusty, total play in steering is less than +-3\4" at the wheel.
stock p.s. Pump with the first mod done.
Tires are balanced and wheels are straight.
Cannot feel any slop in the hubs...
Am I missing something?

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Possibly a tire problem? Try swapping them front to back?

 

[Clb]

Does it with brandy new 35" km3's
and 31" street dunlaps?
Steering stops adj. For good lock on both sides , held against the full lock I cannot get and flex anywhere, none when straight ahead either.
the 31's been on it a while, rotated every trail run so x5-6 a year...
it's in the air so I'll try it tho

 

[Slander]

When I did mine I eyeballed the shaft in the spindle and shimmed as needed to center it, then tested the tension with the fish scale. If I remember correctly that's all the SST really does, right?

 

[Clb]

Sets the spindle to center the shaft then allows measurements for the shim pac, as far as I can tell...
I figure the preload is light.

 

[Clb]

Ok
Pass judgement on this set of pics please???
Total junk?
Run em(haha)
Seen worse?

Pass side bottom
First goround
Bare knuckle pointed straight ahead, breakaway torque was 2-3# and bearings are ratcheting, 5k total miles .
Pulled and cleaned it up rotated the bearing now get 4-5# at breakaway still racheting.
Damn I h8 paying shops to touch my shit!
Pulled 1 thin shim and got some tension...
Looks like another rebuild in my future.

 

[rattlewagon]

I use the bottom shims to set the height, and the top for the preload. I just eyeball it, and call it good when the shaft looks like its in the center of the spindle and 15lbs on the fish scale.

 

[Crawl]

Your trunnions look, and sound fine.

Have you taken a look at your castor angle? Did you change the spring pads? Is it under leaf springs, or coils?

If it’s leaf springs, I find the u bolts need a re torque after the first trail ride.

Check your toe alignment again.

If the front end is tight it’s usually geometry causing the death wobble.

 

[Clb]

The seals were leaking 90wt into the knuckle, and the swing motion is ratcheting or klunky (whatever one calls it).
Alignment was in spec before the trunnions were replaced (interested in how this should affect the alignment tho) the rig is rufs and stock pads/perches.
The rufs have a full length 3rd and equally spaced leaves ?6-7?
Wheel bearings tight re torqued new u bolts 3 times.
Toe is at+-1\8"
thanks for looking guys

 

[Clb]

Anyone have the sst they wanna sell?
Sst# 09634-60013
Or the new #
09634-60014

 

[Aisin]

You have a discontinued part number. You are looking for 09634-60014.

 

[Clb]

Thanks
Bud

 

[Stingray]

Are you looking for the knuckle alignment tool?

Knuckle Alignment Tool | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

The Toyota Knuckle Alignment Tool is finally here! It is important to know what shims to run when rebuilding your front knuckles, and this Special Service Tool from Toyota is the authentic way to g...

www.marlincrawler.com

I have one with the fish scale also, but not willing to sell.

 

[Clb]

Yes sir

Knuckle Centering Tool

Toyota Land Cruiser 40 55 60 70 Series Properly dial in your front end and eliminate excess wear on seals and axles FSM (factory service manual) directions included Made from 4130 CrMo CNC machined for precision accuracy USA made from domestic materials APPLICATION: 40 Series, 55 Series...

trail-tailor.com

Here is one less the $200 scale marlin dayum...

 

[Stingray]

Yes sir

Knuckle Centering Tool

Toyota Land Cruiser 40 55 60 70 Series Properly dial in your front end and eliminate excess wear on seals and axles FSM (factory service manual) directions included Made from 4130 CrMo CNC machined for precision accuracy USA made from domestic materials APPLICATION: 40 Series, 55 Series...

trail-tailor.com

Here it one less the $200 scale

I got mine in a bulk purchase of Toyota stuff, not sure the guy even knew what was in every crate, digging through crates I found it in the factory toyota box,

Did you buy it?


cover shipping and I'm willing to work something out.

 

[Clb]

Not yet, don't you love finding tools in the parts pile...
I figured there's gotta be one guy that bought one to use once and would sell it.
I figure the first ones went 250k in this axle before the indie failed to own the tool and set them by eye 5k ago
Looks for a pm.

 

[Clb]

The link above is a vendor on
i
h8
Mud
btw for the search button

 

[Clb]

Austin

This link ok???

Setting up knuckles without the SST

www.pirate4x4.com

Ax it if not.
Came from
I
H8
Mud

knuckle centering tool

any one have a knuckle centering tool i could rent or borrow? sst 09634-60013 Thanks

forum.ih8mud.com

there is a guy selling one he makes $250 delivered on mud.

the hack from the old site needs machining capabilities, read the botton of page 4 for the catch...

 

[Clb]

With 2-3# of breakaway preload cannot imagine why I had death wobble...

anyone ever see this issue?

 

[Clb]

You gotta LOVE CHINAMANZ
I go to put the rod ends back on the histeer arms that have only been apart 3 times since I bought them new....
The hole in the arm pulled the brand new three 5 rod end right down to contact with the socket!
FAIL
search for gm tie rod end swap don't show what I know has been hashed out before, off site I go I guess....
So what are the options?
1 drill out and swap all of them out for gm, most likely the most work/cost option...
2 swap arms, if so ANY AMERICAN made ones to get?
3 buy a bacon wrapped yuppie heep...fubar
off I go
thanx fer looking in.

 

[AK_F250]

They the correct rod ends?

 

[Clb]

Ugggh
Thanx for asking tho.
I really want to rant off about the rock Auto theme song... not my style.

But yes fj80 three 5 oem bits.
Been in there with the arms, new hi steer kit new arms new rod ends, rebuilt box,new frame plates and fab.
This is the soft garbage material letting me pull the rod down thru the hole way before hitting the torque#no name arms...
Near as I can tell.

Anyone have input on...
the 2 piece arms out there?
Forged vs billet?
Not pulling the knuckles to machine them now that I'm done.
Would have if I knew I was doing arms also.
Stock pins, 4 bolt, nuthin fancy.

 

[AK_F250]

Something doesn't seem right. Unless the old rod ends were loose and wallowed out the taper I don't see how even the shittiest of material would do that to such an extreme. Do you still have the old ends to compare?

 

[Clb]

I agree
NEVER been loose,
Yes I have the first rod end on the shelf to measure up.
I took the tie rod and swapped ends and same issue recurred.
I use a snap on freshly calibrated torque wrench every time.
Using a +_ 12 oz hammer to knock the rod loose results in denting of the arm, read soft junk? (I know the sound of hardened steel vs cast vs wrought iron ect) sounds soft.
Now the new replacement rod is less than 500 miles old. fwiw
The death wobble started so I went on the hunt for an answer...
Found a TINY bit of looseness on dr side rod end at arm so I pulled it out and replaced it (second time ever) found the issue was 2-3# preload on pass side knuckle.
So when I put it (new tre) in the nut went past the castle/hole alignment point, so I put a washer on it and all is well. Torqued down clean... or not?
When I had it apart I found the tapered hole was dished at the top and protruding out the bottom.So I dressed it off flat, The contact marks on the pass top arm pin is something I have to figure out , is this birf contact due to not enough shims?
How could this stuff be that soft...
So we fast forward to now that thrashing for a dusy trip sat is off... oh well at least it is in the garage .

 

[Clb]

Porn...

 

[Clb]

Old tre

 

[Aisin]

What are you using a torque wrench on? I tighten the castle nuts enough to get the cotter pins in and fucking send it. Sounds like you are wasting time with unnecessary steps. Steering arms are forged. Trail Gear actually brought the first set of forged arms to market. The only cast ones were the early All Pro ones from 20+ years ago. Your issue sounds like shit rod ends.

 

[Clb]

Well
First off the tre are from japan, that guy in fresno stocks em and I doubt trailgear has anything better!
And the arms aint forged, the torque wrench is so I don't be that guy with wallerd out arms!
Yes it's true that snugged up tight and set the key rarley fails....
How is that hammer denting a forged arm?

Just spitballing here.
So anyone got any input on forged vs 2 piece vs billet arms?
Vs swapping out all the tre for gm 1 tons?
This adds drag link and tie rod tubes to the $$$ equation
Oh and the arm in question is at .025 larger than the pass side.
gotta get into that tomorrow and see how far outta spec it is and is it out of round or not!

 

[Clb]

Ok now onto drilling these out for gm tre's....
Anything bad\weak doing this?